Panama City, Panama 30th May

Well, goodbye little old Central America ( and it does look little at the side of South America) ... but we can't wait!
Today we visited the canal - lots of interesting facts, but to look at, it's just a very large canal! Picked up our camera, and it seems to be working fine, back to normal (I really doubted that we'd have a camera at all). Apparently it had been dropped or something as there was a dent in the zoom, hence not working properly. (don't think the humidity helps the mechanics either) - but, all should be well now. Phew.( thanks for all the crossed fingers; must have worked!) That's all for now folks. I want food. Catch up with you when we are in Ecuador. Keep well, keep happy!

Yes, What do we have?

Fantastic changing and challenging landscapes, bigger than the imagination. Surrounded by nature and wildlife; at every turn a new exciting encounter. Diversity of culture, which are seeped in. Tastes, colours, smells, that slap you in the face and make you pay attention - wide eyed and open mouthed at all that is around you. Overload of the senses. Beauty that makes you want to weep because of it's perfectness, beauty that you can never forget. The fact that we are together 24-7, enjoying each other's company to the full, overcoming challenges together, making decisions, fulfilling dreams. Having fun at fiestas, being included in holy ceremonies and having spontaneous parties with like minded people that you've just met and will probably never see again. Going through each day as an adventure and making the most of each and every moment and everything that is around you. Having the feeling of being so happy that you could burst and your insides are screaming from the exhilaration of so much pleasure and stimulation. Or the quiet, contented happy state, where you have a grin as big as the Cheshire Cat, when you could cry for no other reason than you are so happy to be who you are, where you are and sharing it with the person you are with. But most of all, just living. Where and how we want -and the simple pleasures that that brings.
As we've traveled there have been a couple of songs that have kept creeping into my head :
"Got no mansion, got no yacht, still I'm happy with what I got; I got the sun in the morning and the moon at night." and the other is a section from a David Grey song "If you want it, come and get it, for crying out loud" - And that is exactly what we are doing!

...And More?...

Language is probably the biggest frustration. Yes, we're doing well, but if you can imagine, everything you want to say, to ask, you have to use a new language, and then you have to understand the reply. It just makes the simplest things such hard work.
Other things on the list of daily struggles is; the way you change currency just as you become used to a country. The constant vigilance you need to keep an eye on your bags. Planning where to go next, which are the better options in the (relatively) short amount of time, planning how to get there, which busses, connections, routes (then they're messed up by a hungry driver anyway). People trying to get money from you. Finding a hotel once you arrive, having a different place to live and get used to, find your way around, every couple of days.Packing and unpacking -usually in a room you can't swing a cat in with no table or any place to put clothes or anything, and of course, not going to work everyday, doing the same old predictable boring stuff!
I did this list incase you were thinking that it all comes so easy, and the whole thing is a breeze - I just wanted to point a few things out. After saying all of that, gosh, what else do we have?

And More...

One thing that we have gotten used to is the bugs. My fantastic watch that lights up almost as good as a torch, serves me well when I get up in the night for a trip to the toilet. Helps me to dodge the cockroaches (otherwise you crunch them under bare feet -and they're big - yuk) You also become used to knocking them off the person you're having a conversation with in the evening. Cockroaches don't bother me at all, and they're a really bug (obviously not the city ones).
Yes of course there is the heat. It is just a daily grind as there is no escaping it, and just sometimes you wish you could be dry and feeling clean. We have both aclimatised very well though, and sometimes if it hasn't been quite so oven-like, I've actually felt a bit chilly, and thought about putting on a cardigan! Linked to the heat is hot showers. There is no way that you take this luxery for granted. If you can find a shower that is not freezing, then you're doing ok and I can live happily with anything that is luke warm. (bit of a grind though when the shower is nothing but a drip, or a narrow sqirt that is so skinny, it takes you ages just to get your body wet.) Whilst we are on showers, I'll let you into how we do our washing.- In the shower! There is more room than a piddly sink, and you can really give them a good scrub. When we take a shower in the morning, we take in the previous day's dirty washing, and with a bit of elbow gease ( and the washing bar that they use out here) - hey presto! (and Simon has learned the Hand-washing Tricks of the Trade very well.) Whilst we are on hygiene, I'm afraid that I have to bring the topic to toilets. Well, all in all I am very impressed - not too bad at all. As we have gone further south they have improved too. Yes there are horror stories - but I'll spare you the details.

More Greivences...

What other daily delights do we have to contend with? Well there are the beds. Or rather the place you try to sleep. Lumps, bumps, thick plastic under sheeting and homemade contraptions. As long as it's clean and no bugs - that's the main thing. Pillows however are never nice. Always a 2ft high brick. We often make our own from towels or clothes etc.
It always amuses me when we check into a room that has mosquito netting up at the windows, but then there is a 3ft gap from the wall to the ceiling. (this happens very often) Why go to the bother of the netting? An eagle could fly into the room, never mind a mosquito! Actually, most places, the walls don't join with the ceiling... wonder why? Ideas on a postcard please. The next thing is the trials of putting up our mossie net. We have become very good at imaginitive fastenings, inc hooks, string, elastic, suckers and tape. It was really bad before we'd gotten the hang of it as it would fall down onto us in the middle of the night, and we would have to get up (often more than once) in the early hours of the morning to fix it back up. - But we're real pro.s now!

Daily trials & greivences.

Busses - enough said! The fact that you can't wake up in the morning and just pop the kettle on for a nice cup of tea. You can't 'just' do anything. If you do find a place for the cup of tea that you are so desperate for, it usually comes back barely warm, tasting of cinnamen or made with condensed milk. Doesn't quite hit the spot in the same way. There is no easy option with food. You would think it would be a dream to eat out for every single meal - not so. For a start you have to find a place that doesn't have only meat on the menu, it has to be clean, it has to be affordable. (getting a place which fits all 3 is like finding the holy grail) Then of course you have to find something that you can eat -options limited. Forget about what you feel like eating, that is a luxery you no longer have. There have been times that I thought I would cry if I had to eat another plate of (rice and sloppy refried beens with dry tortillas, or, fried rice and fried beens and deep fried sour cheese, or etc etc depending on each countries 'speciality') I think the worst part is finding something on a menu that makes your heart stop.. pizza, or spaggetti or tomatoe soup, something that you beleive will be plain and have a familiar and nice taste, only on first bite to descover that you have been had. Duped! Hopes high and then shattered, that's the worst. After going on about how terrible the food is, it's not been as bad as I expected - we are eating and have a healthy appitite. And when it's good, it's very very good - baby lobsters served on silver platter springs to mind- but mainly it's a daily grind that really gets you down. Time up!... more to follow!

Last Minute Thoughts...

As I am about to leave Central America, I thought I'd write about how visiting it has been (overall).
Nature Being surrounded by so much nature in it's natural and untouched habbitat, and learning so much about plants and animals in their own environment has been a real eye-opener. You can see how delicate life is, how much of a struggle it is for all speicies, and humans, who are given so much, then turn around so easily (without knowing, or without concience) destroy it. Each living thing's life is finely balanced with everything around it, and you can't understand back home the impact and the knock-on effects that the smallest upset on one tiny plant will have on the life of a whole forest. Everything is dependant on everything else, and once you take away one thing, everything else dies or has to compensate in such a way that it will die some time in the future anyway. (eg Jaguars eating the turtles coz someone cut down a few trees for your toiletpaper) Time bomb! What is done can not be undone! Once you are out here and are surrounded by it's beauty and it's desperate difficult fight for daily survival, it really changes the way you think. I've always been aware of enviromental issues ( but they are removed dressed-up words, now I see it in very real terms: you wouldn't suffocate a kitten, or starve your puppy? - but that is exactly what we are doing) but now I really know the implications of each desicion I make - and I won't ever take it lightly again.
Sorry if all this sounds a bit heavy, but it really affected me. I'm sure it would you too. Please think about how easy it would be to make a few minor changes in your life, and give the planet a few years more. (ok, lecture over!!)

Panama City, Panama 29th May

Slept well I'm glad to say, as I really needed it. Spent today continuing to chase things up - a few dead ends and wild goose chases were had, but we came out of it with 2 tickets for Quito, Equador for the 31st of this month (2 days) Also had a bit of a dilema about what to do with our (bite my lip and not get too angry about it) camera. We put it in for repair and depending on the outcome... well, we?ll see what our options are tomorrow when we pick it up. Keep your fingers crossed! Know one stretch of Pan City so well now, we've been up and down it 2 dozen times, but we're getting there... almost sorted for the next leg of the trip. Pan City looks quite glam from far off, but close up it's a little run down - but that's what is quite charming about it; gives it character. The busses (no I don't have a fixation about busses - though I'm sure it could now be my specialist subject on Master Mind) are fantastic. They are works of art, and each one as different as the next. They are airbrushed bumper to bumper with great scenes of fantasy, cartoons, landscapes, nuddie women, monsters - you name it, it's on a bus. They really brighten the city up (not that it isn't bright enough!) Tomorrow we're going to see the canal - tonight we relax and make sure we haven't overlooked anything.

Panama City, Panama 28th May

Didn't get any sleep last night, and to top it all I was eaten alive by a starving mosquito. Covered in very itchy and very sore bites that look like boils. mmmm, nice! Had a headache and wasn't much use all day really. Searched Panama City most of the day in the rain trying to find various places, for various things and information. Got quite a bit done (though because of all the to-ing and fro-ing, and lots of complications that I won't go into, it didn't feel like it.) It is so freaky to be back in a city. Most of the places we've visited either didn't have roads or cars, or if they did one would come chugging along only every now and then. I feel like the poor little country mouse, and am a bit of a liability to myself with all the big fast cars, rows of runaway trafic, noise, pollution, scyscrapers, enormous advert boards and bright lights everywhere - I don't know which way to turn!

Panama City, Panama Sun 27th May

Had horrid breakfast, then had a look around the local church (lavish gold alter), went to the supermarket, can back and made sandwiches and then made our way to Panama City. Saw the last of the countryside that we'll see in Central America. I've enjojed the Panama scenery, especially the way that the countryside is set off by the clouds. The sky is as stunning as what is beneath it. Managed to get a good value hotel (phew, things are expensive here..travel too, has been since Costa Rica (or Costa Packet as a friend of mine says) so good to find somewhere that doesn't eat up all the budget). Went out for food. Very tired and all I wanted was something plain that I couldn't go wrong with... Tomatoe soup, only it was more like beef broth (despite the pleads for the waitress, I knew better) I could have cried. Never mind; "worse things happening at sea" as my grandma would have said. I settled for a bit of bitter lettuce, cuc and tomatoe.

Las Tablas, Panama 26th May

Urghhh, day of travelling. Long and tedious, mostly as the bus driver insisted on stopping for something to eat ( this is often done where and when the driver decides... doesn't matter how short the journey is either). So that put us behind schedule, then there was a road block as some people in the country held a protest. After dealing with that the driver decided he needed another meal stop! Instead of about 3.5 hours it took nearer to 5! All this time he had on the air-conditioner and I was frozen stiff. I had on layers of clothes, my blanket and an icicle on the end of my nose! All in all we were 14.5 hours travelling. Las Tablas which is the Traditional centre of the country is right enough, but it is just like many in a long line of small, sweet towns. There is nothing to see or do (which is fine, but we've done that) and this place is expensive.

Isla Bastimentos 22 - 25th May Part 2

We also went to the beach...no mean feat let me tell you. 25min walk that ended in so much mud and balanced bits of wood that I thought I was auditioning for the Crypton Factor.But, of course, there was a beach at the end of it like a little piece of a dream.
Here on the island each evening is finished off with a light display. There is always lightening, from about 4 different places, lighting up the sky like alien spaceships at war with each other, each out-doing the last blast, more and more spectacular. Had time to think here and also talk about future plans. One day a Transalvanian madman came to the house to visit the man who is house-sitting whilst the owners are on holiday. He was outrageous, but such good fun and he invited us onto the main Island for dinner. How could we refuse? It was quite a night, lots of drinking, lots of Transilvanian jokes, and wonderful food. We left him near midnight, very drunk, still in the bar, only to find him sitting on the jetty of our hotel at 9am the next morning! He was up for it big time. That day as the rest of us chilled out and recovered, he cooked the 4 of us a meal!
It has been just what the doctor ordered. I can't tell how how relaxing it is to lay in bed with the shutters open (no windows of course) and fall asleep to the silent lightening and the twinkling of lights across the bay, only to wake after a perfect sleep, to the glimmering sea coming up through the floorboards and making little dancing fairies of reflection on the wooden walls. Ahhh. Feels good doesn't it?

Isla Bastimentos Panama 22 - 25th May Part 1

Well, a place like this, you can understand how 2 days can turn into 5. We just kept saying..why not! We had both gotten rather frazzled. It seemed like the past 5 months of travel had caught up on us and we began to feel like headless chickens, doing more and more things quicker and quicker. Time to take stock, remind ourselves why we are doing all of this, and get back to basics. This was the place to do it. We mostly sent the days swinging in a hammock each looking out to sea or reading a book, or just idly chatting to each other. We did do some activities though. One day we took a dugout canoe (alone with the needed bailing can) and paddled to the next island where we went snorkelling. I think it was the best I've ever done. The coral was,( yes yes I know you know all about the lovely colours of coral) but this was outstanding.It was like a childs magic box of paints - every shade of every colour, and arranged in such shapes and textures that only a child's imagination could put together. I'd have been swimming with my mouth open if it wasn't for the small point of drowning. It was wonderful.After snorkelling a boat came by full of little nudie boys swimming or sat eating mangoes. We gave them our masks and watched as little bottoms flipped in the air as they dived under, comming up to shouts of delight at finding... a rock! It was so sweet, and before they went on their way, 2 of them swam up to us and gave us a mango each.

Having trouble publishing the blogger. Just wondering if it will allow a short piece of writing to go through?

Isla Bstimentos, Bocas Del Toro, Panama 21st May.

Realised why we hadn't slept very well the last 3 nights; we were back up in altitude (it usually takes about 3 days for us to settle to it ... restless nights til then) But, doesn't matter as we were of this morning to an island on the Caribbean coast (you know how we love our islands so). The scenery was about the best so far I think; more variety. Huge rolling hills, shrubs and palms, tropical forests and heavy cotton wool clouds nestling in the bossom of dark blue mountains. The odd wooden house; some on stilts, some with thatched roofs scattered on the hillside and men working in the fields. Reached the main island, then a dugout to Bastimentos. I suppose you can get a bit complacent. How many more ways are there to describe a beautiful little island? Yes it's similar to Utilla, but more downgraded and more real life even. There is one 'street' 3 places to stay and 3 places to eat. It is yet another variation on Patowa that they speak; it's easier to both speak Spanish...easier to understand! Our hotel is someones home that has 3 extra rooms. Built over the ocean with shutters that open upwards and give the most perfect views; to the left is the curve of the bay, a mass of palm trees dotted with colourful houses by the sea. Directly infront is the small terraced garden, tables and chairs, the jetty with the thatched roof, chairs and the obligatory hammocks at the end and a stretch of sea till it reaches another palm-filled island just before the horizon. Yes, I think this will be a good place to re-charge the batteries.

Boquete, Panama 19th & 20th May

From what I've seen of Panama it looks like a beautiful country. The houses are like in the States, but larger and with with lovely flowering gardens. The landscape is lush and mountainous. We are in Boquete, the country's centre for flowergrowing.It is small and nothing happens here, which is what is nice about it. It is nestled between the mountains high up like an oasis of colour in the sea of green trees.The hotel is lovely with a covered courtyard that we would sit outside in and read up on our plans.Most of our time here was actually spent on the internet, catching up with the past few weeks. Did do some relaxing though, which we really needed after all the gadding about we did in Costa Rica. (could still do with bit more too...still not upto full strength.) We are definately in the Rainy Season now. Here it rains (and I mean rain) from about 1pm till you wake up the next morning. Yes, yes the raincoats work, but what about your legs? You have to wring out your skirt whilst it is still on you, then spend the day with it stuck to your legs. Not a particularly pleasant feeling. But you're not cold, so that doesn't make it seem so bad. Tommorrow off to an Island.

Boquete, Chiriqui Provinco, PANAMA Fri 18th May

Taxi 4.30am to Quepos... well, the whole day was spent travelling. We amazed ourselves at how we were able to catch imediate connections and thus getting much further into Panama than we expected. Was rainy and misty with vast views into the distant hills (though the last 2 hours travel became rough again...you know the sort by now; internal bleeding and all that). Weirdest border yet. The town was neither one side or the other, but both, using both currencies and you could quite easily cross between the 2 countries no questions asked. No other people crossed. This crossing wasn't in the guide books and judging by how they greeted us, we were quite an event. Met a Gringo, made my day sort of thing. At last we are back into Indigeanous populations (minorities). The people are broader with a look of Mongolian about them. The women wear bright dresses that have much material in them, almost hanging from the shoulder and becoming wider. There is a large floppy collar and there are bands of inlaid material 'patchwork' in strips just below waist height and on the hem. It has a very basic and rustic feel to it. At the border we had a sandwich. We were like royal guests in there. They asked if we wanted tomatoe, lettuce with it...then went of to the shop to buy it (inc bread and cheese!). Then they kept inviting us into the kitchen to show us it being made. They were so sweet. At last arrived in Boquete at 8.30pm. Been a long day, but happy to be between clean cotton sheets.

How could I forget to tell you??

In Tortuguero the camera started to play up... as in , not working. Think its the humidity. Loads of photo opprtunities were missed. Still not working properly. Sometimes will let you take a picture, but can't use zoom or other 'extra' functions/settings. Typical. Hope we won't be without one for long, but don't know when we'll be in a town large enough that would sell them. Keep yur fingers crossed for us!

Manuel Antonio 17th may (2)

After the park and a rest Simon took me to a resaurant on the tip of the hill between MA and Quepos. It was real pretty with stunning views. Simon said he'd seen me looking at it as we passed the other day. So we sipped our drinks and watch the sunset. It was lovely. (was a bit too expensive for us so we went back to MA later to eat)

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica 17th May 1

Went to the National Park today, literally at the end of the hotel's road. So uncomfortable in this sweaty heat, everything is constantly wet. After a few minutes we spotted some white faced monkeys, then I turned and spotted (don't know how as they are so well camouflaged) a 3 toed Sloth! So sweet. Odd shape,srange hairy body, over-long lombs, squashed head with markings that makes it look like it's wearing a robber's mask, 3 long thick nails that come straight from it's wrists (no hands) and the slow, cautious, curious movements it makes. I'd really wanted to see one so I was very pleased. Just around the corner we saw another, real close up. It was brilliant. (I could go on and on about the things we saw but I'll keep it brief as I'm sure you're zonked out on wildlife) Howlers, Spider Monkeys and loads of W F Cap monkeys being really cheeky and coming up close to the people. This place was full of people, where as the others we've had to ourselves. Its so small and so frequently visited that the animals are almost used to the people and to me it felt more like an open zoo. Glad we saw the others first which were much more natural and real and gave you a sense of achievement and something special when you spotted something. That was a different world. This was Disneyland ( ok I'm exaggerating, but you get my point) After a long trek we got to a secluded deserted beach that looked like paradise, so we went for a swim. All of a sudden I saw a large fin sticking out of the water a few metres behind Simon's head. I said for us to get out quick, and by the look on my face alone, he did. Fast as we could. When we were safetly on the beach we couldn't see anything. We decided to go to a beach that had other people on it. (we asked the ranger if there were sharks and he said there hadn't been any reports. Maybee it was a game fish, but it was along way from home and very close to shore if it was.) On the other beach Simon swam but I was too fazed by it, so I just relaxed instead. On th eway back we saw more mammals (don't know names) forraging for food.

Manuel Antonio , Costa Rica 16th May

Went into Quepos (bank), came back and changed hotels (more comfortable/clean and value for money) Ate luch. Completely frazzled toda ( guess we've had a pretty heavy week) so spent the day on the beach. Chilled ( how you can chill in this heat, I've no idea) read Stephen Kings "Insomnia", swam ( or rather , tossed around in the violent waves). This really is a perfect beach with sweeping bay, small islands off to the left and tropical flora thick from the sand back. Blue skies, white breakers. One bad thing about here are the mossies. We've been bitten to death, and these are the most painful and insainely itchy bites imaginable. Totrure.

Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas Costa Rica 15th May

/am boat back, which again was lovely and felt so glad that we'd come here. At the plantation we had time for breakfast and I went out to watch how they cut, clean and pack the bananas. Then busses to Carrari, Guapalies, San Jose and Quepos. All were speedy changes (good job we ate) and we were travelling for 12 hours. Hard slog.Went through amazing (how many times do I use that word!)countryside, mountains and clouds and forests so that the layers were those arty and atmospheric black and white photographs. Shades of grey against silhouettes, buffed by whispy mists. I was tripping a bit as I faded in and out of sleep - the awake part seeming moer dreamlike than the real dreams. Raining hard. Had one stop, got off and bought a tiny bottle of pop with some loose change in my pocket (Simon had got locked on the bus) and got soaked to the skin. Got back on gave my seat to a lady with a baby and went to the back of the bus. I sat on the rear exit steps looking up and out at the treetops wizzing past. Gave me an interesting perspective for an hour and took my mind off how hungry and tired I was. Finally Quepos and we jumped in a taxi (luxery) and to Manuel Antonio and to a hotel. Who should we see there but Mitch! Long day was finished by a plate of pasta and straight to bed.

Totruguero, Limon 14th May part 2

Darly was fantastic at spotting things, then getting right in close. Gave great info on birds, mammals, plants, interactions, folklores - everything you could want to know and never think of asking. Saw loads of stuff. 3 seperate troupes of White Faced Capuchin Monkeys ( one which came right to the edge of the bank), Spider Monkeys (one with a baby on her back), Green Parrots, Howler Monkeys, an Otter and 3 types of Toucan - really close (one group being the highly coloured variety thats beak is not only yellow but green and red and blue too) as well as a whole variety of other stuff. Really worth it. One point we stopped under a flock of about 100 blue/black butterflies all fluttering around 2 leaves, when a boat of about 20 people from the $200 a day lodge came past. They all looked with envy as they just carried on past in their boat trip rather than wildlife guide, without stopping or anything being explained to them! Can't believe we saw so much, and so constantly, it was fab. The evening was a perfect finish to a perfect 2 days here. Walked home past the public bins that have 4 seperate ones for different type of rubbish to be recycled, children playing barefoot with 2 little wheels on an axel, wooden houses that seperate the river (lagoon) and canals from the crashing ocean, seeped in nature and grateful to see it whilst it is relatively/practically undisturbed or influenced. Thank you Tortuguero.

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 14th May part 1

Forgot to mension that once we'd gotten off the beach Daryl turned around and said "Oh I can tell you something now, but we have to be carefull because we have a problem with Jaguars on the beach". What!!! The area is declared as a National Park, but still has a problem with poachers and logging (its so removed, who's going to monitor it?) - which means less food for the jaguar, which means it has to look for alternative food - as desperate as coming onto the beach infront of the village and eating turtles! Last year there were 50 cases, so far this year there have been 20! Couple of weeks ago 2 scientist were on the beach and the woman fell behind, to be followed by a jaguar, the man ran back and both shouted and waved and got rid of it. Gosh.
Today we went into the Nat Park. Rained alot, which added to it - colours, smells, light, amnimal activity. Thick steaming, heavy impenetratable jungle. Stuff of picture books and wild imaginations. Through the rain w eheard the prehistoric and very scarey cries of the Howler Monkey ( there is no way you would think this noise came from a monkey... it is deafening and the same sort of terrifying roar they give to monsters in films) Follwed the cries and managed to spot a couple viing for ground. We also saw stick insects, bright woodpeckers, hummers, so many buttreflies- inc the giant Morphos - and not a panic or flinch was had from me.Was an enchanted place to walk around, crawling with life.
Later we went to the turtle conservation exhibition/museum.Watched video and looked at exhibits. Very interesting.
Had a little kip before going out with Daryl again, just Si and I on his electric engined boat (silent) for a 3 hour guide around the canals wildlife spotting.

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 13th May - part 2

Tiny village with mud roads, 5 min to walk around it. Very sweet and right in the middle of this tropical jungle, canals on one side, sea on the other. We'd had a bit of bad luck not seeing the volcanoes, and we didn't see any crocodiles in the way in, but I had a feeling and thought we should go on a Turtle watch tonight... nothing to loose. After a picture postcard sunset bright orange silhouetting the jungle shapes we met our guide and in pitch black darkness began to walk down the beach. We were not allowed any light (only infra red once a turtle has laid and going back ) After an hour I began to have my doubts (though the star constalations that Daryl pointed were interesting) Then all of a sudden another guide signaled and we went over. I nearly died. Sharp intake of breath. My heart stopped, jumped into my mouth and my eyes came popping out on stalks. My mouth couldn't close or get any wider, I just couldn't beleive it, this creature was huge! Over 2 metres long and about 350lbs. A giant next to me. It was truly amazing. She was just finishing covering her eggs, and the guide put the light on so we could get a good look, whilst not frightening it. It was a Leatherback Turtle. We watched for about 20 mins as she finished up, then slowly turned around and headed back to the sea, each movement showing the effort, hearing her breathing. It wsa the most beautiful experience. I can't describe it. It was so incredulous and emotional and I had tears in my eyes - overwhelming. These animals are 100 million years old in evolution and as she passed me, huge shiney black tennisball-sized eye looking straight into mine, it put me as a human in my place (in the greater picture) It was stirring, inspiring and it amazed me. We were so lucky to see this magestical lady and after she had gone Daryl explained every little amazing detail about them- Wow. I'm on such a high. (we decided that the good luck had come from mum as it was her birthday today - we toasted you, hope you had a good one too)

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 13th May - part 1

After a long, much needed sleep continued with our journey. Now it looks how I'd imagined CR to look - lush green tropical jungle. It's 90*+ and about 85% humid. Made a couple of bus changes...seen no gringos for 2 days.The bus went through a banana plantation. It was lovely. Bananas as far as the eye could see, strong, vibrant and delicious looking. We had a rainy season downpour which made it even prettier. The end of the line was the packing station and the muddy bank of a small river. We got a place on the long motorised canoe (belonging to the banana plantation) that was going to Tortu. This was why it is so hard to there. There are no roads and the only access is via 2 hour ride down the canals (often inaccessable due to not enough water or too much). We had 4 hour to kill and were hungry so we trotted off to the staff canteen. They happily served us and we got talking to a man who worked there and his girlfriend. The time flew by and by the end we were taking photos and joking with the other locals that had joined in. When we went for the boat saw some other gringos there on another boat (on an organised tour- you wouldn't believe how much those things cost) The 2 hour ride was wide in parts and very narrow in others. Great tropical plants hanging into the water and lots of tree roots in the shallow river that took alot of navigating (becoming stuck once) This was CR close up. Saw all manner of birds -bright kingfishers, lots of Jurassic Park lizards, basking terrapins, and monkeys swinging overhead. Was so great.

Carriar, Limon Costa Rica 12th May

Up at 4am for bus, 3 hour wait for next bus,.. oh can't remember how many buses and how much waiting inbetween, but finally arrived about 5.30pm. Suprised to actually find a hotel... this certainly isn't gringo territory, but we managed to get closer to our final destination of Tortuguero than expected. Not sure if we will be able to continue tommorrow, depends if we can get a boat. Tommorrow is another day!

Fortuna (volcan Arenal) 11th May

Took it easy this morning sitting in the cabins gardens reading. 1pm we set off for the waterfall. It was uphill all the way, but the compensation is always the scenery. CR so far has been much gentler than I'd imagined it. 2 hours later and soaked through with sweat we reached the 75ft waterfall. It was really powerful but peaceful, and Simon went to swimmin the pool below, the force of the water pushing him out to the edges. After a good rest we started back... this time at least it was down hill. By the time wwe got back our legs had nearly given up on us and as we sat having a drink by the room, all of a sudden..."Here comes the rain again, falling on my head like a memory, falling on my head like a new emotion" I couldn't help but to run out into it. Bliss. At least I was wet from rain and not the humidity and clouds. Sat and watched, the sky changing to a colour that neither of us could name, to a dull pale tangerine, to amberand then the blue of a 6pm night cloud came down to wipe it all out. Meanwhile the light cast on the volcanoe made it look super imposed - beautiful. Was a shame that there is again too much cloud cover to see the lava (guess we don't have much luck with volcanoes), but as the night enclosed, a house across the road played an old 50's record of some sweet Spanish singing, which carried us off like a lullaby.

Fortuna , Ala Juela (Volcan Arenal) 10th May

Bus rides - usual story. Passed some beautiful scenery, lake with little inlets, tropical vegitation, and of course 2 very impressive volcanoes. (felt shattered when we arrived though; body ached and had a headache) Fortuna is a nice neat town (built by the foot of the active volcano) which caters to tourism. Dumped our stuff and got a bus to the hot springs. Had lovely kept gardens and areas to sit or lounge and of course hot springs. It was a large stream that ran straight from the vocanoe - litterally across the road- and down into pooled off areas created by dams, each pool being linked by a short waterfall. It was hot! You had to work your way up from the bottom end, getting hotter and hotter - much hotter than you'd have a bath. It was just what the doctor ordered, and let the hot sulphuric water wash away the hard days travel. It was dark by now, with just a couple of lanterns through which you could see the steam rising from the water. Must admit that we were rather disapointed though as the clouds had come down and you couldn't even see that there was a volcano there at all - never mind any activity. (we went to Fortuna as the volcano is constantly errupting and you can actually see red hot lava running down the sides of the volcanoe - practically nightly - but not if it's covered in cloud!)

Santa Ellena, Monteverde Cloud Forest 8th May...cont Butterflies

The first butterfly enclosure we went into was rather unfortunate as it housed (amongst others) the Morpho bf. These are brown 'owl eyes' and a pattern that looks like the head of a snake on the underside, and on the top of the wings as it opens them out, it is bright electric blue.... but, it is bigger than the span of your hand!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a bit much for me. I paniced and got a bit upset, shaking and short of breath. I just had to calm myself down (it helped having other people there) It was so scarey and I did wonder why the hell I was doing this - but I breathed, was brave and slowly became 'used' to them. To cut a long story short (as you can probably tell, I could go on for hours) each of the houses became easier and I actually became intersted in them. By the end of the tour Si and I went back to the monster Morpho house - then he left me alone in there. I felt very close to tears, but this time due to sheer relief and release at what I'd been able to do. I've had this phobia so long, and thought I'd have to put up with it for the rest of my life, and here I was (if I wasn't quite cured, I knew I'd certainly broken the back of it.) What an achievement... by the time I came out some 2 hours after first venturing in to the nightmare, I feltweak in my legs, my heart had been pounding so hard and there was so much adrenallin pumping around my body that I felt shattered. Could have killed for a cup of tea!. Instead we went on for more adventuring...see the cont... about Hidden Valley. (sorry this is so mixed up ... computers playing up!)

Santa Ellena, Monteverde cloud forest, Costa Rica 8th May (FIRST HALF OF THE CONT... THATS JUST BEEN PUBLISHED)

Having some trouble. Just typed a whole lot out and it hasn't transfered to the weblog - hope it works this time!

Talk about extremes! We've gone from sweltering nights under a mossie net and a fan blowing, to being freezing under a blanket and the wind blowing a gale. Well what a day it has been - like no other. I did something that I never thought I'd do (except maybe trapped inside a nightmare) I was so brave and am very proud of myself. I went to a butterfly farm!!!! I'd been contemplating it, but I wasn't sure, and as we passed it today I felt strong enough to cope with trying to face it. I was ready, the timing was right (I'm so fed up of having this stupid phobia) but I was still scared to death. I went to the toilet and when I came out I nearly died as Simon was stood there with a huge Stick insect on his hand. I hate them 2nd to butterflies, and felt jumpy enough. Think I over reacted slightly (and I think Simon had reservations about me with the bf). First it was all about beetles - I was unphased by the 3inch cockroaches crawling over the guide - I had other things to think about. Saw so many really interesting littlte (and not so little) creatures including a small beetle that acts like an antihistamine to combat asthma - one was taken from the container and Simon put it on his tongue and ate it! Then came all the info about the bf. I must admit it was really fascinating. I hadn't realised they were so remarkable...but how would I react to the real thing?!

Santa Ellena , Monteverde cloud forest, Costa Rica 9th May

Nice sleep. Caught 7.15 bus to deep into the clod forest to do the 'Sky Walk', which is a hike around the forest with wire suspension bridges hundreds of feet long and hundreds of feet up so you can see the tops of the trees and look down on the conopy, birdseye view. Was supposed to take 1.20hr, but we were 3.5hrs as were spent so much time peering at all the plants in detail. The more you looked, the more you saw - it was incredable. Fern leaves biiger than a human, then plants and flowers so small they were like daisies in Lilliput. Lots of mosses and bromalaids (plants that live from another, but independantly, not parasitic) in all shapes and sizes. Beautiful delicate flowers in odd and inritcate shapes and colours.It was a feast for the eyes and the soul. Good to see a different perspective. Simon drew a comparison which sums it up best; that it was like looking down into the ocean at a strange underwater world, of coral and other strange unfamiliar plants and lifeforms. It was quite surreal and the human being was definately out of place in this weird world.Swa quite a few birds - eye level and at one point Simon and I were stood on the bridge, 'cheek by jowl' when a tiny but crazed Hummingbird divebombed between our heads. (the way we flew apart, it was a good job the sides were high!) Made full use of the binoculars we got for Xmas (thanks R&L, they've been great). Tired when we got back but thoroughly enjoyed it. Made some sandwiches then went to the reptile house. Was good. Hadn't realised there were quite so many venomous snakes in the areas we've been tralling, it's just that they are so well camouflaged, there is just no way you'd ever see them. We also pleanty of lizzards - some you'd die for Graham! Was a good afternoon. We were ready to drop so went back, set up the hammock and relaxed. I managed to find an old Saturday Guardian suppliment, laid in the hammock having a beer and enjoying reading it cover to cover. Simon started cooking (2 gas rings and a table in a clearing in the middle of the cabins with a roof over it - and me swinging) 2 Europeans came out and we started to talk to them, then 2 guys from Texas on their first trip from home came along "Who wants some beer or wine?", then Francessco turned up and the whole thing turned into a party with more drink, lots of laughs and the pasta thar Simon was cooking ended up as huge and enough for everyone to took in to. It was a really good evening. - By the way, it's called cloud forest (if you hadn't already worked it out) because it's up in the clouds. They are always hanging heavy and wet around you. Odd, but nice.

Santa Ellena cont...

So next we went on to a reserve called 'Hidden Valley' (less people go there) Quite a heavy trek. Saw a waterfall and some amazing views, but must admit I was a bit disappointed on the lack of wildlife we saw. Saw 2 Agoutis, a squirrel and a toucan (but so far away). Frustrating as you could hear them but not see them. Guess it's just chance really. By the time we got back 6 hours later I was ready to drop. At dinner I think I talked Simon to death about my acheivement on the butterfly front (Simon said he was really proud of me). The dogs were waiting for me when I got back (are they mad?) The whole sky was lighting up at night, but no thunder (definately wearing my longjohns tonight). What a day!

Sa

Santa Ellena, Monteverde (cloud forest) mon 7th May

Up at 4am after very little sleep (due to the Sheila waking us at 1.30 having a melodrama about her husband having a case of the bends!) One of the most trying/exhausting journeys we've had so far. 4 busses, waits between, dusty roads, black with dirt, hot, rough and bumpy...but just couldn't keep awake! Guess it's the best way for the body to handle extreme conditions. Kept being woken by my head banging on the window. Was shatted and had a bad headache by the time we arrived about 4ish. Si went off to find a room while I sat with the bags and had a good chat to a Tico called Francessco. Went straight out to eat, back to a hot shower and ready for bed by 7.45pm. Not like what I expected at all up here. It's really weird coz it's like Switzerland - same sort of houses and landscape. Not tropical like I'd imagined, but softer countryside and forests, rolling, and yes, Swiss -looking!

Playa Samara cont 2..

How lovely to wake up relaxed and hear the sound of the sea, the fan brushing you with cool air and feel the soft skin of the person you love lying next to you. Yes, as you can tell, it's been a good day. It was red hot by 9am when we rang our parents (1st time since 1st March) It was great to hear their voices again, and just to take the pleasure of them being on the other end of the phone. Then went to the beach for a morning swim and eat our breakfast there (fresh pinapple, which Simon cut up on the deck of an old boat on the beach) Spent the day in and out of the water and roasting inbetween. The sea is fantastic here and I had so much fun playing in it. Spent some time reading my book 'South' about Shackletons expediton over the Arctic. Seems the right time to read it now. I can associate with all the small day to day details (which I found endless and boring before) as I understand the importance and relavence as it reflects our own day to day simple struggles or joys. ( and all the talk of ice helps a little in this heat). Got talking to 2 chirpy Austrailian 'Newlyweds' who are on honeymoon.Went out for dinner & pool with them. They were a bit typical - though harmless enough, but as always we were happy when we said goodnight and there was just us two again. I feel totally at peace now, with a sharp edge of happiness.

Playa Samara cont...

By 5pm (12hrs since starting our journey) Simon and I were running down the beach and into the warm sea like at the end of a corney love movie. Aahhh, what absolute bliss! Can't tell you how much I enjoyed frollicing in the tummbling huge waves that came crashing over me, carring me back to the soft sand. People would pay alot of money for this 'hydrotherapy' - all the last couple of day's stress were washed away in an instant and I was smiling and singing and splashing (and screaming as the really big waves came) like someone fresh from the looneybin. Samara is a 1long road town by the beach, which is in a broad crurved bay with tropical trees and flora creepng right down to the sand. Picture perfect - and as I became a mermaid for an hour I watched the sun (still warm on my face) set orange behind the palm trees, reflecting onto the shimmering sand. At dinner we sat and talked about the moments that we are making and enjoying.

Playa Samara cont...

By 5pm (12hrs since starting our journey) Simon and I were running down the beach and into the warm sea like at the end of a corney love movie. Aahhh, what absolute bliss! Can't tell you how much I enjoyed frollicing in the tummbling huge waves that came crashing over me, carring me back to the soft sand. People would pay alot of money for this 'hydrotherapy' - all the last couple of day's stress were washed away in an instant and I was smiling and singing and splashing (and screaming as the really big waves came) like someone fresh from the looneybin. Samara is a 1long road town by the beach, which is in a broad crurved bay with tropical trees and flora creepng right down to the sand. Picture perfect - and as I became a mermaid for an hour I watched the sun (still warm on my face) set orange behind the palm trees, reflecting onto the shimmering sand. At dinner we sat and talked about the moments that we are making and enjoying.

Playa Samara, Gunacaste COSTA RICA 5 - 6th May

Country number 7 on our journey! Heavy day as we got up at 5am, had 5 changes of bus as well as a border crossing. CR feels much more lush and different veggitation (even though there is still some parched ground) I was supprised to all the mountains as we came in. You can tell that this is a richer country. As we drove in, the litter along the side of the road (a huge problem elsewhere, as people throw anything and everything out of the bus windows with no regard for wildlife,beauty or hygine) dissapeared and it looked so clean and pristine. The streets look nicer kept - painted, tidy and with flowers in the garden as apposed to half burned trash. - Hope it continues. (At the border we bumped into an old friend who we went to the same Spanish school as in Guat, then saw on Utilla. The border by the way was very formal and the most organised and official so far) Also, another difference in CR is that the buildings aren't painted in cartoons - not the usual dancing teeth for a dentist or Bugs Bunny in a car for a mechanic - it's like maybe they know without being shown a picture?

San Juan cont...

Today went along the beach to the far end, however the sand was so hot that sitting on my Mexican blanket, doubled over, it was burning our little behinds, and just too painful to sit on.We found refugue in the shade and watched a surfer catching the waves. Tried to work out the Costa Rica itinery - really starting to annoy me now. Later we sat; me watching as Simon as he watched the sunset, drawing it.
Next day was pretty much of the same actually - a little overcast though which was nice. At last had a rough plan of Costa Rica - thanks to my husband. Threw away a few more of our belongings (strange how little you do need - all the rest seems totally unnecessary). Glad we came here for a couple of days - needed to relax and prepare for the next step. Evening was spent watching the ships lights in the harbour and talking about ...well maybe some things should be kept for private - our moments. Love our time together. Bye bye Nicaragua, you've been a nice and unexpected supprise.

San Juan Del Sur, Nicuragua 2nd - 4th May

Quite a heavy bit of travelling really. Compensation was that Simon was sat next to man who had a baby squirrell as a pet, so cute, reminded me of Badger. Felt a bit ill on ferrycrossing which was even worse than on the way in (and far from 'choppy'). Then a very dusty bus to San Juan beach. Really nice little town and after a much needed shower we sat at a bar on the wide curved beach, port to the left, and watched the sun turn an amazing bright deep red before turning the sky the same colour - Tony Hart style. Had huge yummy pile of pasta and rum and coke and chat chat chat (watching the traffic slowly pass the open window - boy on bike, woman, horse, oxon...) till at last it was 11pm and we happily headed off to our bed.

Santa Domingo, Isla De Ometepe Tues 1st May

Today went to the other side of the island to the beach. (got stung by something as I turned on a tap and didn't see I'd grabbed it - but was ok). Only 2 hotels here and they are right on the beach. Spent the day reading up on Costa Rica - which is completely driving me mad. There is just too much info - about 40 national parks - how do you decide? Also the places where I originally thought of seem impossible to reach...arrghh -frustrated! Had a dip in the lake to cool off - but it was like having my 1st hot bath. ( I seem to have failed to tell you about the Island! It is the Largest island in the world within a fresh water lake. It's name means 'Two Peaks' and is formed by two volcanoes (1610mts & 1394mts) Guess that's why the lake was warm; heated by the volcanoes. Whilst swimming you see the perfect triangular volcanoe with a cap of cloud the top. Big empty beach and a breeze...I'm not hot!! Later I drew a picture of Simon as he sat talking to the hotelier - he wanted us to go with him and all the staff to the nearest town as it was their fiesta! Despite all the pleading, we turned him down - we're all partied out and were enjoying just relaxing. That night however Simon was far from relaxed as he started to have one of his BedBug paranoias. I wasn't bothered as I couldn't feel/see/sence anything - so I continued to sleep in the bed, while Simon went and slept in the hammock outside till almost frozen and awoken by the partying hotel staff around 3am - then to return to the room to sleep on bare floorboards, legs scrunched up till dawn.( there is no way I would have slept on the floor - I don't think I even stood on it with bare feet) - what can you do?

Moyogalpa, Isla De Ometepe , Nicaragua 30th April

AS we went to catch the bus to Rivas this morning I fell down with my pack on - luckily I escaped with only a grazed knee and strained foot (and no, it wasn't a hangover!). The ferry to the island was 'choppy' as Simon would say - I'd say it was rather unpleasant. Staying at the little village where the boat pulls in and had the biggest bowl of soup I have ever seen in my life. I didn't even know they make bowls that big. There were 4 or 5 'tins' of soup in there aswell as poched eggs cooked in it. It is the first time in my life I have seen Simon leave food from being full. Just took it easy here basically. Swinging in the hammock reading about Costa Rica - then a stroll by the lake and around the tiny town, finished off with a few games of open air pool. (which I gave Simon a good run for his money, him only just beating me - I have to mension this as usually I play like a girl with a stick!)

Granada (& Masaya) 29th April.

It continued to be one happy fiesta. I'm not going to into it all as I'd be here forever and I've got so much catching up to do. It was how any carnival should be and thoroughly enjoyed every minute.
Went to Masaya - to buy a hammock. Finally decided we had to have one, and this place is THE place to get one. Caught the bus to the station, and then you have to get a horse and cart into the town. However, we ended up walking the 3.5 miles into ( no easy task in this unrelenting heat) as the horses looked just too skinny for my liking. We got our hammock, very good price and exceptional quality. Ahhh the times we'll spend in it .. I can just picture it! - Back to Granada.
Granada seems like a different town now- so quiet. Without the mass of people you can see the beautiful buildings- grand and cool coloured (not unlike the big houses of Savannah). The ornate carvings around the doorways and on the ceilings. In the click of a finger it has become a laidback restful place. (One piece of furniture that they all have - Jenkins you'd love them- is the dinning chair. They are all heavy dark carved wood with very high backs. One thing is different to the exact type that you'd find in an old stately home, and that is that they have open weeve/lattice work inlaid on the seat and the back pannel - and wow do they have the desired effect. In a place where you are never dry, and sitting down for one minutes feels something like being a baby in a daylong nappy - they provide just the right amount of air circulation to keep you -( well relatively speaking ) cool. Elegant and practical! As we were sat in a little bar (where we'd seen a hippy marriage the day before) celebrating what a nice time we'd had here, and supping my 6th margareta (doesn't happen often!), who should walk in but the Rasta we had met up the Volcanoe in Antigua Guatamala! So we sat and chatted having a good laugh - our own fiesta. Had the latest night so far...an unheard of 1am! Cheers Granada, what a nice supprise you have been!

Granada (& Masaya) 29th April.

It continued to be one happy fiesta. I'm not going to into it all as I'd be here forever and I've got so much catching up to do. It was how any carnival should be and thoroughly enjoyed every minute.
Went to Masaya - to buy a hammock. Finally decided we had to have one, and this place is THE place to get one. Caught the bus to the station, and then you have to get a horse and cart into the town. However, we ended up walking the 3.5 miles into ( no easy task in this unrelenting heat) as the horses looked just too skinny for my liking. We got our hammock, very good price and exceptional quality. Ahhh the times we'll spend in it .. I can just picture it! - Back to Granada.
Granada seems like a different town now- so quiet. Without the mass of people you can see the beautiful buildings- grand and cool coloured (not unlike the big houses of Savannah). The ornate carvings around the doorways and on the ceilings. In the click of a finger it has become a laidback restful place. (One piece of furniture that they all have - Jenkins you'd love them- is the dinning chair. They are all heavy dark carved wood with very high backs. One thing is different to the exact type that you'd find in an old stately home, and that is that they have open weeve/lattice work inlaid on the seat and the back pannel - and wow do they have the desired effect. In a place where you are never dry, and sitting down for one minutes feels something like being a baby in a daylong nappy - they provide just the right amount of air circulation to keep you -( well relatively speaking ) cool. Elegant and practical! As we were sat in a little bar (where we'd seen a hippy marriage the day before) celebrating what a nice time we'd had here, and supping my 6th margareta (doesn't happen often!), who should walk in but the Rasta we had met up the Volcanoe in Antigua Guatamala! So we sat and chatted having a good laugh - our own fiesta. Had the latest night so far...an unheard of 1am! Cheers Granada, what a nice supprise you have been!