Santiago Atitlan / Panajchel Guatamala 31st March

Spent yesterday walking around. Went in this church that gave me the creeps. It was well scarey. Very big and bare and dark and all down the sides were wooden carvings of deities (some painted to look lifelike) and they were dressed in clothes (not Mayan and not western either) They all peered at you, hands outstretched. I thought the door would slam shut at any moment and they would all come to life and turn on me, like in some horror movie. Eughh, gave me goose bumps and was glad to get out. Horrid. We went down to the docks to do some drawing. Couldn't decide what to draw - volcanoes, marshy reads and jetties, people fishing in wooden canoes, womae filling up their water erns and carrying them away on their heads... then we were surrounded by curious kids, so >I had the perfect subject: a 5yr old girl called Delores. I managed to capture her cat-like eyes and beautiful lips, and thought it was a great opportunity to use colour so I could capture the vividness and range of colours. (The kids were very picky and disagreed if the colouring wasn't exactly right. ) Was a nice half hour. Ate and later went back to pier to watch the sunset give the volcanoes a different kind of fire. The villages came down to wash their clohes, hair and take a bath (diving in, getting out & soaping down, then diving back in to wrinse. (Don't know how the water manages to stay so clear...guess there is just so much of it?) Had a lovely evening, felt so surreal to be here. Feel like I'm inside a post card. It is stunning and quite unbelievable.
Evenings turn cold as we are in high altitude. I like this as we can cuddle together at night, and it also means no mosquitos....hurrah!)

Santigo De Atitlan, Guatamala 30th March

Woke 5am, caught bus to Panajachel by Lago de Atitlan. Was breath taking as we pulled around the mountain corner to see the lake (collapsed volcanic crator) with 3 volcanoes surrounding it. Absolutely stunning.( there are 10 volcanoes in the western highlands alone) In Panajachel headed through markets of Guats all in trad dress to the docks & caught 1hr boat to the other side where there are fewer tourists. I really can't describe how awsome it is. The huge volcanoes are a hugh of blue and their tops are covered in cloud and sulphur patches. The lake looks like blue glass. It is so grand and stunning that it's a bit overwhelming - no wonder the Mayans used to worship volcanoes. Air is absolutely clear and clean. Santiago is quite a poor town. The whole time there I only saw 3 gringos. All the women here are in traditional dress (I guess coz the'ye all Mayan, no Spanish descent). They have great headresses of strips of fabric wrapped around their hair and then their head. There is one type of headress that is 25 metres long & coiled round & round till it's like a giant flying saucer on the head. Here the men also wear trad dress. The bright heavily patterned material in the shirts with embroidery in sort of cowboy shapes. Trousers are loose to just below the knee pale with wide stripes and the bottoms are finished off with bands of exotic birds and flora around them - all finished off with sash and hat. Quite stunning and very colourful.

Antigua Guatamala, Guatamala 29th March

Simon was well again so it was time for adventure. Checked out a few places before booking on a treck up the active volcanoe. Volcan Pacaya last fully erupted 2 years ago and was on amber alert at the time of us going up. We were driven as far as could up it (1 hr) and then had to hike for 2. Was a 4 in 1 gradient & high altitude at 2.500 ft - so qite hard work. It was loose under foot as we were walking on ash. Nice views but 'cloudy'. As we reached the top there was really thick sulphur rising out of the crator that last errupted. There was a sheer drop into the crator and the sulphur and gasses rising from it were thick white and choking. The temperature had dropped dramatically and though I had on an extra top & my fleece I was still really cold - my hands like blocks of ice. The wind had taken off & blowing at a temendous rate. As we went to climb the last half hour to the other crator to see red hot lava being spat out, things became really bad. We were walking along a ridge about 1 meter wide which to the left fell with a sheer drop straight into the old crator...and to the right sloped away a little more gradual down the other side of the volcanoe. The wind was blowing so hard that it was a struggle to stand & you had to brace yourself, knees bent, grippng with every muscle, trying to weight yourself. The fumes had gotten so bad that some people earlier had refused to go on, and the rest of us battled with the poisonous gasses. I had my bandana around my nose and mouth and was still coughing and choking. It was getting into my eyes & stinging. We managed a little further before we were forced just to stand and endure. It became really quite scarey as the fumes became so strong that we were unable to see where we were going...or where we had come from. Simon and I were gripping onto each other, only just able to see one another, ash and tiny bits of lava blowing onto us. The group helped each other back down to reasonable saftey. There were already 2 other groups waiting there, not daring to any further...we didn't recomend it. The guide told us that if we were to continue the gasses would be worse, and we wouldn't see any lava activity due to the over productive gasses that day...and it would be dangerous with the wind aswell ,,,(but he was willing to go if anyone wanted to -yeah right!!!) We were shattered and black as chimney sweeps as descended. We hadn't see any spouting lava, but it certainly wasn't short on thrills and spills! What a day...what an experience! Very exciting and very scarey.
(Had a headache for the rest of the day and the next. Could still taste/smaell the sulphur the next day, and my chest was tight and 'chemically'. Black when I blew my nose and hair and ears filthy.)

Antigua Guatamala, Guatamala 27th March

(Forgot to mension that in the heavy jungle - trees with vines hanging, orchids growing on them aswell as long trailing cacti and large yukka - the sounds of the insects in the evening were deafening)
Serene boat ride across the river at 6.30am as the misty morning light and the jungle steam clung to the top of the lake...like riding on dry ice. Caught bus to Guatamala City. Bad journey (told you about Guat busses already) Was so hot & dying for the toilet for the last 5 hours of a 6 hour journey. In Guat City got confused with City layout before finding the other bus station & catching bus to Antigua (1.5 hours) - landscape through journey turning from tropical back to dessert-like as we climbed back into the mountains, and high altitude.
Antigua is a lovely town. It has the wonderful setting of 3 volcanoes...one of which is active. Poor Simon was ill on the second day there and stayed in bad (euphamism for toilet) all day and I spent the day on my own exploring the new town. Small houses brightly painted, cobbled streets and a lovely lively square where I spent a couple of hours chatting to locals in my very pidgeon Spanish and also a Dutch girl studying here. (lots of people here to study Spanish) Caught up with my weblog (that's why I'm ahead of Simon if you were wondering.) Had a nice day, shame Simon didn't.

Antigua Guatamala, Guatamala 27th March

(Forgot to mension that in the heavy jungle - trees with vines hanging, orchids growing on them aswell as long trailing cacti and large yukka - the sounds of the insects in the evening were deafening)
Serene boat ride across the river at 6.30am as the misty morning light and the jungle steam clung to the top of the lake...like riding on dry ice. Caught bus to Guatamala City. Bad journey (told you about Guat busses already) Was so hot & dying for the toilet for the last 5 hours of a 6 hour journey. In Guat City got confused with City layout before finding the other bus station & catching bus to Antigua (1.5 hours) - landscape through journey turning from tropical back to dessert-like as we climbed back into the mountains, and high altitude.
Antigua is a lovely town. It has the wonderful setting of 3 volcanoes...one of which is active. Poor Simon was ill on the second day there and stayed in bad (euphamism for toilet) all day and I spent the day on my own exploring the new town. Small houses brightly painted, cobbled streets and a lovely lively square where I spent a couple of hours chatting to locals in my very pidgeon Spanish and also a Dutch girl studying here. (lots of people here to study Spanish) Caught up with my weblog (that's why I'm ahead of Simon if you were wondering.) Had a nice day, shame Simon didn't.

Rio Dulce, Guatamala 26th March.

Was really excited about today as we'd hired a guide to take the two of us horse riding through the countryside. I of course had a white horse & Simon a shining chestnut. My first time on horseback (I can do camel no problem..even galloping) but was a bit apprehensive and it took me a while to master the 'steering'. I also wasn't hitting it with my legs hard enough for it to get started ...wsan't as sensitive as I'd thought, and I'm no bully. The saddles were the wooden western style with a pummel. We were out for 3 hours and explored the hills with wonderful views of the surrounding mountains. Went around the Rubber Plantation & saw how they farm & collect the rubber...as we rode into the plantation it was (obviously) very foresty, and seemed like mossie territory. We asked the guide if it was & he said no. In about 4 min Simon's face had 4 bites on it that had completely swollen up so that his usually handsom face was quite deformed! When we pointed this out to the guide he said that they weren't mosquitos but another insect ( Simon's reply "yeah, the famous face-swelling fly!) I again found it quite funny (I'm really a nice person...honest!) We joked that people would pay to come and see the amazing freek that was halk man, half manote. Poor boy ( I could laugh coz the tops of my shoulders had 12 bites...so I knew I?d suffer later). At one point we came across a herd of huge oxon (like the ones found in India, with long saggy necks and bone behind the shoulders) We were backed into a corner with them, when the mad dog that we'd seemed to have picked up started to attack them, and the two bulls charged at him....thought we were going to get into a situation, but all was well. It was fantastic beeing out there, just the two of us...rally relaxing and exciting and interesting. Despite Simon's deformed face, he still made my heart race as he galloped up and down at speed..man master over beast, very sexy. After the long trek we went back down to the fresh water pool. As we cooled off I saw a beautiful tiny hummingbird overhead. Then I nearly had a heart attack as I saw a large lizzard with a fan/fin on it's head that ran really quickly with big round steps...I swear it looked just like the small nasty dinnosaurs from Jurassic Park! Evening was spent with good food, beer, cards, good conversation...and yet more hysterics over Simon's bites.

Cont...
(sorry, time was up!).... The whole thing made me feel full inside like ready to burst, it was so enjoyable and just how you'd imagine a ride down a river in Central America. Got to dock & heard Simon discussing something with the boatman, we got back in & went to the opposite bank. As we pulled in it was like a swamp & really jungly with a lovely little hotel tucked in the waterfront. (Simon had been doing his homework...it was a fab place to stay.) So hot, humid, lush and the smells..ahh, jungle! Explored the surrounding area (this place is a working eco farm with acres of land.) Had to cross a v long string swing bridge to get over the swamp...only 1 min into it & we were attacked by mossies. We had to leg it over the ricketty (much swinging) bridge...escaped with about half a dozen bites. Yep this is definately mosquito terratory. (sprayed ourselves before continuing) then we were out into fields of birds & a whole variety of large & exotic butterflies ( think I will be cured of my butterfly phobia by the end of this trip). Eventually, v. hot , found the fresh water pool down a little path, and joined some local lads in a dip. Cold bliss! Relaxed as the sun shon through the canopy of trees. Now we were full of energy again & went back & hired a dingy (as if we hadn't had enough water for one day!) I'm afraid I got the giggles as Simon tried his hardest to control the small boat against quite strong winds and large 'waves' made by passing motor boats. We made our way to the swampy edges...didn't see any crocs though (maybee luckily so, as we were so unstable) It was a good laugh (for me anyway!) Spent the early evening drinking beer with our feet dangling over the dock (with mossie repelent of course) talking & laughing, playing cards and eating. Great, great day.

Rio Dulce , Guatamala 25th March

Found a person willing to go to Livingstone (Guata) this morning. Emigration was small shack on waterfront.Wow what a ride...didn't know you could get G-force on a boat! Was really exhillorating. Half way there we stopped to refuel and saw the ugly head of a Manote pop out of the water to see why we were disturbing his Sunday morning. Livingstone was lovely, but only stayed long enough to barter for a boat ride & to have some breakfast. (Was a bit of a shock as we are back to Spanish, & I'd forgotten all about that!) Had a boat ride down the Rio Dulce. It was beautiful & amazing, I can' quite explain...it was just fantastic. It had such steep sides to the river that you had to crane your neck to see the top. It was sheer and full of trees so looked like a wall of forestry. Then it became really wide & grand with lower banks with the backdrop of mountains. Next the engine had to be switched off to get through the very narrow swampy bit, with Mangroves, water lillies in floweer & white cranes with long downy tails.

Caye Caulker - Punta Gorda Belize 24th March

Said goodbye to the Cayes with a sigh. Its been a real luxery to have the time and be so chilled as to let your mind wander from life changing brilliant insights to nothing and less than nothing. On our last evening as we supped stout and rum punches from a rickerty wooden bar 3 floors up, open to the evening and the cooling sea breeze - me on a swing, Simon in a hammock - I once again felt lucky. It is so enjable being so happy! To sum up out time here, I'd like to quote some graffiti on a wall near the seafront .. " Belize : The few, The humble, The sure."

Caught the 6.30am boat to Punta Gorda. Lovely time of day to travel as the sun was coming up over the sea and slowly shaking the island from it's slumber, & giving the seafront houses an amber glow. Then an 8 hour bus journey. Oh what a journey..like 8 hours on an over enthusiastic pneumatic drill, in full sun, with someone throwing dirt & dust at you whilst listening to non-stop, full blast reggae! Quite an endurance! - but what scenery as compensation. So much to look at; lush tropical forrests, banana plantations, orange groves, and the further south we got the more rural the houses, and back to the thatched Maya style. Punta Gorda (PG as it's known) is a very small, quiet normal town void of gringos (till the morning when some come from mountain lodges to catch a boat).
Have to take back what I earlier wrote about Belize. It must just be Corozal that has the bad atmosphere as its been good everywhere else. ( like judging England from Birmingham alone). Couldn't find anything to eat as all places did either stewed chicken or stewed pork. Eventually found a sweet little place, family run, with a small display about the Garifuna culture and Garifuna music playing (low and soothing) - Tommorow we go up the river.

Cayes Caulker Belize -24th March

Yep, definately staying here a few days. The small streets are lined with wooden houses painted bright colours every shade of the rainbow. Rastas ride by on their bicycles. You can smell the Carribean cooking drifting through the air. (yum yum, how much fish & rice & beans can you eat?) Oh, how could I forget the beer? Belikin beer of Belize, of which the dark stout is fantastic and an absolute must at any time of the day. Now, what with all this taking it easy and watching the sun set sat out on a jetty, talking, laughing & feeling in a state of Eutopia, we decided in a bit of action too. We went on a 3 hour snorkel. There were 6 of us on a boat that took us to 3 different places. As the water was so clear it was a real joy. The coral was beautiful, with lots of sizes, shapes and colours. The most beautiful was large, purple/maroon and like a very delicate lace fan. Good fish too, but I expected much more (guess we were spoiled with all we saw in the Fijian Islands). The 2nd stop off was the most memorable and one which I will never ever forget.
As the boat came to a halt we looked over into the clear water and I had to catch my breath. There were dozens of big black Sting-rays (about 3.5 foot, not including the tail) aswell as dozens of circling Sharks!! (which were 5 foot long) The guide said "In you go!" I was really excited & dying to get in but I was a bit nervous too, there were so many and they looked so agile. This was definately their territory. You couldn't wear flippers incase you knocked or trod on one ( then they'd sting you/ turn nasty) - but appart from that you should be ok! I kept my sandles on (don't ask why...maybe they made me feel safer?!) It was totally weird, but totally fantastic. They were all around me. I decided to take my shoes off after all and as I was putting them on my arms(for safe keeping) I felt a very strange sensation all soft & spongy going up my leg. I looked down to see a large Stingray. This happened to me a few times ( Simon said they didn't touch him...maybee the hairy legs) but it was such a eerie experience beeing carressed by a Stingray. I was swimming around under the water with my mask on stroking the rays and the sharks (which felt rough ad leathery). It is quite surreal coming face to face with a shark that is the same size as yourself, their mean beedy eyes locked on yours. It was so exhillerating and soothing (in a quick heartbeat sort of way) that I didn't want to get out. Was in there playing with them all for ages. Wow how fantastic. It really was!

Cayes Caulker BELIZE 21st March

Caught the 5am minibus to Belize City, by the dock. Really enjoyed the scenery & got a proper look at both countries. Guatamala looked stunning at around 6.30am when a heavy romantic morning mist clung to the ground. It made it look mystical, magical and very picturesque. Border was a doddle coz we'd done it before. The docks were more bustling but nicer looking than Corozal or the rest of Belize City. Had the bumpiest ride on speed boat, real bone shaker, but what a view. The water is SO clear, like tap water...like the South Pacific. Went past other little islands(Cayes). Arrived at this amazing island & I thought - yeah, loads-a-money. I waited for the lucky people to get off & wondered what it would be like where we were going. Then the man said "this is Caye Caulker" - our stop. I couldn't believe it, and once I'd scraped my jaw off of the floor, I had an uncontrollable grin. I was so excited. .....gosh I've got so much to catch up on, I'm going to have to trim it down a bit and stick to the main points, o.k?
The island is medium sized but feels really small coz all the houses etc are in one part, the rest is mangrove. The water (as I've said) is pure and beautiful. There are boats docked here and there off small jetties. The beach is quite narrow really, but light yellow with the odd mangrove, coconut tree, cabana or over-turned boat for shade. The swimming beach is at the north of the island at a place called The Split (litterally where the island was blown in two by a hurricane a couple of years ago) Whist ankle deep in water I saw 4 different types of fish and a very big spider-like crab (scarey). There is never any need to wear shoes as the streets are all sand. Even in restaurants and bars the floor is just the sand showing through. This is the place where the saying "No shirt, no shoes, no problem" must have originated. It is laid back, and then some. Ahhh what absolute bliss!

Tikal, Peten Guatamala 20th March

Got up at 4am ( yes it had stopped raining) to catch the 5am bus to the ruins A) to avoid a bit of the heat and B) to increase our chances of wildlife spotting. Well, what can I say...yet more descriptions of ruins, sorry! These ruins are deep in the Guatamalian jungle - surrounded and covered in it. It was built 200yrs BC and is again pretty impressive. We've now seen pyramids in the dessert, wilderness, flatlands, coastal and jungle! Here it had an amazing atmosphere with monkeys howling and growling, birds skreetching and unknown sounds which feed the imagination (there are jaguars in this jungle, but don't worry, we didn't venture that deep) About 6.30am as we looked down into a thick part of jungle and saw some movement...we couldn't figure out what it was at first, then they all came wondering towards us in a small pack. They were small mammals like part racoon, part cat, dog & weesel with a long thin snout that curled up when they sniffed, dark ringed eyes, brown bodies and a ringed tail that lifted straight in the air and hooked at the top. (Sorry haven't looked up their correct name yet.) It was like descovering a secret , just Simon and I being really quiet. We followed them into a clearing where they forraged for fruit. They were so sweet and cute and coz we were still they came right upto us and wre quite inquisitive. It was definately the highlight for me. Later, other wildlife I managed to spot were..black birds with bright yellow tails who's call was like someone winning the jackpot on an electronic one-arm bandit! , a tiny 2 inch bright green bird that I thought was an insect at first coz it beat it's wings so fast...like a hummingbird, huge buzzards, green parrots, a toucan and quite near the end when we had almost given up hope we saw a swing high up, and it was a howler monkey joining it's mate. It just sat there and didn't move for us, but it was quite a thrill to see one. After climbing all the pyramids with their stunning panoramic views of the site and jungle tree tops and walking for a solid 5 hours we were shattered and headed on home. Was a really good day and yet another ruins experience. It was great. Now relaxing, walking around Flores and getting ready for the 5am bus back into Belize - to go to the Cayes and more beach! Really looking foreward to coming back to Guatamals.

Flores, Peten GUATAMALA 19th March

3rd country in 3 days...are we mad? Has the heat finally got to us? Don't worry, it's part of the plan. Caught the 4am bus into Belize City (capitol) and all the way out again to the border and over into Guatamala. (10 hrs altogether inc almost 5 hrs out of our way due to so few roads and lack of direct transport). The whole of Belize seemed the same as Corozel...even the capitol, which had slightly more of the faded wooden buildings and many more people. I know I've only been in Belize such a short amount of time, but, what I've seen of it...how can I put it? Well, it's nice, laidback, easy-going...but, it has an edge; an undercurrent that doesn't feel pleasant and that I don't trust. Maybee coz of all the drugs, or lack of family environment, don't know, just an instict, which in these situations you tend to go with!
Guatamala however was much different. As soon as we crossed the border the landscape changed. It is how you would expect Central America, much more lush, tropical and the smells!! Really rich fecund tones of trees and earth...lovely. Houses here are painted bright colours and are the small concrete or wooden thatched type. The Mayan face here is smaller, less broad and sweeter. The Mayan dress though is very different. Gone are the white embriodered dresses and replaced with long skirts of heavily patterned dark colours., and very loose blouses almost like one huge batwing (remember those?), but they look cool!-yes, yes you've guessed it...it's hot. Much thicker, heavier heat that clings. It is so hot that my legs have 'bubbled' - not with sunburn coz I'm totally covered - but with heat, the way plastic does when it gets too hot! (oooh, I AM a barbie girl in a barbie world!!).
The place that we are staying is called Flores and is an island in the middle of a lake, accessed by a causeway. The streets are a little dusty with brightly painted houses and horses wandering around for some reason. We've found a resteraunt that we've been a couple of times, with really nice food( Oh hurray, such simple pleasures give the greatest satisfaction) and well priced. We sit outside with a wonderful view of the lake and a tiny island with a couple of huts on it and the main land Santa Ellena. It is totally relaxing.
First evening it grew really heavy with cloud and very close - then the heavens opened and it poured like I've never seen before. It was a wall of rain and lightening that was continuous almost violet/neon colour. It was really wild. After about 4 hours it was exactly the same...in fact whenever I awoke in the night it was still going.....wonder if this is a foretaster of things to come?

Corozel northern BELIZE 18th March

Got up & on beach at 6am for morning swim before setting off to Belize. Is hot...just keeps increasing, and Belizians walk around with a flannel to wipe away the sweat. Gosh, what a difference from Mexico! Has a very different look and feel. The houses are all faded coloured wooden clapper-board houses on stilts. Larger, more spaced out than Mexico and less hussle and bustle. Less family life. Mostly black 2nd hispanics and also chineese! Saw something going on in the harbour and when we went to look it wsa a talent show, with people singing and dancing... a real poor show, but people were taking part coz they could get a free soft drink! It's weird to hear an Englishn accent, (albeit with an extremely thick dialect). The town is small and very normal..only the odd non-resident.

Tulum Yucatan Mexico 17th March

Happy birthday Simon! Came down to the ruins at Tulum for his birthday. Thease are right on the very edge of the Carribean Sea and what a magnificent backdrop it is. It is yet another type of ruin, atmosphere & setting and just as interesting but in yrt another type of way...bet you're fed up of all these ruins desriptions! After a while of exploring ( and our clothes competely sweated through ) we were in much need of a dip...so walked along the white beach to our 'Cabana'. This is a small hut made from lots of thin branches stuck in the ground and a thatched roof of palm leaves. It was right on the beach, which was beautiful and long and sea was much more impressive here as the colours were a richer turquoise...ahhh to cool down with a swim!
Later when we were refreshed we sat and had a beer at a bar on the beach and planned the next leg of the journey. It was quite hard work as we had to look at Belize, Gualamala & Honduras all together coz of main roads, inaccessability, route ect and eventually got the whole thing sorted. Then we carried on drinking, had a bite to eat and enjoyed the evening. It is very laid back here, mostly europeans - hippie types hanging out and doing nothing execpt relaxing. Music plying, people chatting, a couple selling handmde jewelry, a few people jamming with bongos and a homemade claranet and some locals challenging someone to a tequilla drinking match. When I asked Simon if he'd enjoyed his birthday, he replied with a broad smile of content, a long slow nod and shinning eyes. I knew exactly what he meant! Wewnt back to the cabana, put up our mosquito net (bed is the only thing in the hut) and listened to the roaring sea, wind through the hut and the canopy of bright stars against the pitch black sky. It's been a good goodbye to Mexico, and tommorrow holds a new country and a whloe new adventure!

Isla Mujeres, Yucatan Mexico 14th March

Aahh, the beach! We are now by the Carribean Sea on a small island that is so narrow it only takes a couple of minutes to walk from the beach on one side to the beach on the other side. It has all you'd expect; clear sea of blue, blue and blue. Sky of...blue and soft white sand. It is very hot and bright, but the palm trees on the beach give you the gift of their precious shade, and it is taken with thanks. We've decided to stay here for 4 days and hang out, chill out and drop out - kind of a holiday. It's so nice mmmm, sorry, got to go, I've got a cold beer waiting!

Chichen Itza Mexico 12th March

Sorry, keeping this quick becauseI'm hungry! Chichen Itza is another ruin and the most famous and most visited, but I think that is due to location. Was as you'd expect but prefered Uxmal. It hada very good Ball Court though with carved murials of the winning team cutting the heads off of the opposing team and also have a very eerie well (very large and deep) which they threw people down in human sacrifices.-nice!
Next went on to Viodalid, a normal little town before coming to the beach.

Merida, Mexico 9th March

Well, was a bit apprehensive about Simon's stomache as we had a 24 hour bus journey, and although neither of us felt great, it was as good a place as any to be. The passing countryside was beautiful; we saw the very impressive Popocatapetal (volcanoe) covered in snow, lots more mountain roads, one of which was so high that it was half in cloud and as we passed through, it felt like we were flying. Then the land flattened out and became quite lush and swampy with large lakes and rivers covered in water lillies. Next the countryside turned remeniscent of the British countryside, farmland, trees & landscape. I saw some amazing trees in which giant white blossoms hung...until they suddenly took flight and were actually a great flock of white storks. Last of all it became tropical with with richer colours and palm trees. (mind you, who knows what we missed during the night?). At last arrived in Merida at 6.45am.
Wow, the heat...it's hot. Very hot! It's ther first time that we've not been in the mountains and it feels weird to walk through the streets and everything to be on one level - flat. Large square coloured buildings here. Taking it easy with the food and just eating bits of stuff that will be easy on our stomaches but feel almost back to normal in that department. Walked around, sat in the square ( another mad square with lots of strange goings on) and tried to relax.

Uxmal (Kabah, Sayil,etc..) Mexico 11th March

Today did a daylong trek to all the surrounding ruins. I think there were 5 altogether ( heat affecting the brain I think). On the way we passed little villages of wooden huts with thatched roofs - don't really think of that in Mexico do you? In this region (south/east) you get practically all of the locals wearing the traditional Mayan dresses (white cotton, loose shape with detailed ebroideried bright flowers or birds around a square neckline...they look so cooling I am utterly jealous). Anyway back to the sites. Of course they were very impressive. There is a difference between the Aztec ones we saw, and these Mayan ones...but please don't ask me how to explain becase I can't, it aws just a feeling; an atmosphre. The best one was Uxmal (pronounced Ushmal). Yet again very tall pyramids which we climbed and lots of carvings ( more intact). There was an enclosed courtyard (nun's quadrangle) which ws basically 4 very large oblong buildings with a square in the middle (think big!). The overall atmosphere of that place was truley amazing and kept being drawn to one building which had the most amazing stone work. It was a much more structured and precise pattern with giant crisscrosses and pyramid patterned lines. I couldn't take my eyes off of it and for some reason I just thought that it was superb. Unfortunately all this pyramid climbing has left my legs in a bad state. Those of you who have seen my legs will know that we are not talking Olive Oil shape, but more like Oliver Reed! All those years as a dancer - I had to have something to show for it- no, they're not that bad, but point is, they're strong. However, all the dancers out there will know that you do not use your front thigh (only the back, hamstrings) and oh how you need those front muscles when climbing pyramids! Needless to say, I have been in agony for a few days.

Taxco Mexico 7th March

Well, saying goddbye to Taxco a day later than anticipated. We were up on the roof of the hotel in the evening watching a very impressive, if somewhat primative, firework display. (they are firework mad up here with bangs going off every 20min during the day) anyhow, I wasn't feeling 100% and that night I was in and out of bed 8 times being sick. The last 4 times it was just empty retching, but so violent that I strained all down my back. Bent over staring at the contents of my stomache, I wandered just how many times on this trip I would be in this position. It's funny because the meal I had that day was not from a street vendor or local place, but a bit more upmarket...for tourists I guess - and that's probably where I went wrong. We'll stick to the places that are full of locals in future...but, as with anything, there are no guarantees!
So after the next day in bed, and then today taking it easy & building my strength, we are ready to move on tomorrow. (in case you were wondering, Simon didn't eat there - he wasn't hungry when I was). Despite being ill, I've really enjoyed our time here. The buildings are so interesting as they are on so many levels, all of them are white with clay tiled roofs like half of a plant pot. And, not to mension the life...it's crazy. Everyday of being here there has been a procession or fiesta or parade or some mad goings on... they certainly like to enjoy themselves here. So, on to Merida in the Yucatan...and, if you are wondering why we are up dating the log so often; upto now there has been an internet cafe every couple of streets - it's cheap, and there is usually a time of day that lends itself to a little time out, and a little typing. As I sit here now I am on an open balcony with an umberella for shade and a great view of the church, not bad eh? Not sure what the facilities will be like in Central America though. Ta-ta till next time.

Ooops! Spoke too soon! We left Taxco yet another day later, this time due to Simon getting a bout of the.....! Poor thing!

Teotihuacan Pyramids, Mexico 28th Feb

Last night caught 11pm bus to Mexico City arriving at 7am - luckily caught bus from same terminal shortly after to the ancient pyramids just north east of Mex City. (will describe MC later, first piramids) We stayed in a small town just outside pyramids..no other gringos as the pyramids are usually a day trip. Anyhow, cut the boring stuff...the ruins! Wow what an amazing place! It was huge..2 great pyramids & a 2 mile road (Avenue of the Dead) running down with lots of other smaller pyramids, temples & citadels etc branching off of it. We walked around for 6 hours exploring the different areas & reading up on their history. We climbed the Pyramid of the Sun - 248 extremely steep steps in the scorching sun & v. high altitude>thin air, it was hard work I can tell you. However the view was more than worth it! What a spectacular city this is now...I can't imagine how it would have been all those years ago, so much bigger & prosperous & vibrant. Everything was covered in sculptures which in turn was painted the most vibrant of colours - unfortunately not much of this remains, but when you do see it, it is so impressive. The pyramids, in fact the whole city was built without the use of metals, pack animals or the wheel! How??! Climbed the other major pyramid - of the Moon, and that was even more spectacular. It had the Avenue of the Dead running out infront of it off into the distance. To tell the truth, the whole experience was rather surreal....like I wasn't actually there, or in a dream or something - sounds odd I know, but it was! Sat in silence on the top of the Pyramid of the Moon we watched small (a couple hundred feet high) tornados of sand and debris sweeping across the countryside, then dark coulds enveloped us and several streaks of lightening cut the sky in half to the horzon. A storm was coming, & on top of a pyramid was not the plce to be. We managed to reach the ground as the rain started, and was on a bus as the heavens opened. it had been a good day and left us a bit stunned I think.


Taxco, Mexico 2nd March

Today moved on to Taxco. Caught bus to MC then a trolley bus to take us to the South terminal (which took about an hour & 20 mins and a wonderful opportunity to have a look at MC & what we would be missing!) Well, thank goodness we made the right decision not to stay in MC...urgh, what a place. Dirty, smelly, overcrowed 8 lanes of traffic, shanty-type houses and a horrid smell that stuck as close as the smog...no thanks!
Nice 8 hour bus ride to Taxco up in the hills. Fab views, seems we are so high, but actually about 1000ft lower than before (as my ears told me by their constant popping). Well, what a lovely suprise this town has turned out to be. As we arrived, the top of the mountain and the white houses clinging to it's side were ensrouded with cloud. The roads are very narrow and all cobbled. The cobbles have decrative white stones in intrecate patterns down the middle, and all the streets are so steep that handrails are common, to help you along. These streets are full of people, but even more full one kind of vehiecle, their taxis, white Beetles. It is such a maze of streets, and the market is like a never ending rabbit warren, full of the life and character I've come to associate with a Mexican market.
We stayed one night at one hotel, but liked the place so much we opted to stay another 4 at a really nice place. Our new hotel is around an open coutyard with fountain and great tree in lilac blossom (with tiny 3inch long bright green birds) up about 4 stories of lovely rooms to a roof terrace with the best view of the town. Of course there are the squares which are so important to Mexican life...as all life takes place there. The main one is infront of the church...oh but no ordinary church. This pink stoned building is every inch encrusted with baroc sculpture- big, bold & beautiful! The exterior is stunning enough, but, to step inside your breath is taken away. Not only is the interior covered with the same ornate carvings, but it also all in gold. Stunning and quite overwhelming.
The first day here we were walking along & a huge comotion was going on. A group of boys and men were dressed up in frilly girls clothes & make up and dancing around to the following band, taunting teasing the onlookers. Everyone was laughing & in high spirits - great fun. What they were actually doing was collecting money for the church!
There are many more indians here. They spend most of the day on the streets at little stalls or strolling round trying to sell their wares. They are a very talented people as they sit and make everything they sell. Pottery perfectly painted with bright intracate pátterns, embroidered cloths, clothes & bags and well woven baskets and hats. The indians wear traditional - type clothes and have charming interesting and delightful faces. They are polite, proud and unfortunately poor and down trodden - there is a bit of an uprising in Chiapas to try and get them back some rights etc...hope all goes well for them.
I am now used to seeing the police going about their business with automatic shotgun in hand. Quite normal. Our favourite pass time is - of course- sitting in the square ( with the rest of the Taxco population). The sun is hot & bright & the square full of everything - and listening to the Mariachi band in their shiny pristine costumes is very relaxing ( even though they don't play too often, as they, along with everyone else seem more interested in just relaxing and gossiping in the square). There are masses of beautiful silver shops ( as this is a minig town) but even though there are some great bargins..the pack is full enough.
Ahh, this place is just so lovely. Romantic in every way, and as the sun goes down in the evening, and the lights come on and twinkle with the stars I feel lucky to be here, and with the man I love so much.