Taupo, New Zealand 24th Sept

Awoke and took the opportunity of our lakeside setting to do a few stretches, exercises and fill my lungs with fresh air. I love waking up in a secluded place by a lovely lake. Were lazy and didn't get going till 9am after a large breakfast. Cambridge nothing special - not as "English" as expected (seen better) so went onto Waitomo Caves. These were enchanting limestone caves with icing sugar drip stalactites and mites, but the best bit was when we boarded a small boat and were pulled trough the pitch black caves. Ahh, pretty pretty pretty. Who brought the stars down for me? Just above our heads was a Milky Way of glow worms hung from the cave roof, twinkling just for us as we guided through in silence, our mouths as wide as our eyes at seeing our ow private heaven, a minature galexy full and bright (and when I die, take him, and cut him out in little stars, and he shall make the face of heaven so fine that all the world will be in love with night and pay no worship to the garish sun). Lunch by the picnic area and on through more Engishesque countryside, but still with those adorable sugar houses and flowery gardens. At Lake Taupo bought fresh green mussells the size of your hand and had a feast of them and white wine whilst overlooking the lake in an increadably posh part of a quiet town. Not bad for a couple of campervan travellers. *( how could I forget the highlight of the day??? Please don't read on if you have just eaten or are easily grossed... We found a dump station to empty the chemical toilet. Oh my god it was awful - Simon took on the task and is a bit queesey in that department to start with. Well there was all s**t (excuse my French) around the top of it & he had to aim it down this hole and he missed, and then it wouldn't come out and he had to shake it and it was all slopping around. Simon's face was green and he was very nearly puking. I meanwhile was having the best & most uncontrolable fit of laughter ever. Had to wash it down whilst trying not to get it on his trousers or sandled feet - clearly unamused and ready to faint - which made it funnier. (I know, I'm so cruel!) As it is my turn to empty it next time, the toilet is now out of bounds!

Rotorua, (and around) North Island, New Zealand Sun 23rd Sept

This morning was another calm start, watching ruffled black swans on the lake as we supped our first cuppa of the day.Rode in to Frotorua and decided what we wanted to do - seems so much to do around here. Went to Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua a Wahiao (eat your heart out Wales!!) - actually means 'The gathering together of the warparty of Wahiao. Had a charming guided tour around the 'Touristy' Maori Village and cultural centre. Learned all about history, saw men woodcarving, women making traditional costumes etc - was really interesting. Then onto a golf buggy train tour of the geysers and boiling mud within the grounds. Hhmmm! We had a bit of a laugh as it was indeed laughable and quite pathetic at the side of what we saw in Bolivia/Chile. Then the Kiwi House to get a rare glimps of this wierd elusive creature with long striding legs, bizarre shape, fluffy fur-like feathers and of course no wings. *(For the women = Every female that entered the Kiwi house stood rooted and gasped horrified at one particular display, - which the men just glanced at and casulaly walked on - and that was the display showing an egg inside the female Kiwi's body. Now I don't want to misquote (as I bloked the scarey number from my mind and can't remember it exactly) but the egg took up something like 65% of her body, and an X-ray of it looked like it was from a horror movie. No wonder they're nearly extinct!!
Ok boys, I'm off my side track! - Wandered around til lunch when everyone gathered at the lawned enterence of the Meeting House and a Maori woman in full dress came out to the crowd to explain a traditional welcoming ritual and that she would need a Cheif to act on behalf of the group. Simon's hand shot up , and so history was made as Cheif Simon welcomed them with 'nose kisses' and accepted the green fern of peace after the men had challenged him with the Haka. Into the meeting house and of course Cheif Simon and his wife (once he'd greeted every Maori on stage with a nose kiss) had pride of place right at the front to watch the show of dancing singing and Haka. It was a good show on the whole (I particularly liked the dances with stick throwing and twirling balls on the end of long strings) but, the dances weren't as sweetly enticing as in Samoa and the Haka was only ok. We have seen 5yr olds perform it for real out in the South Seas with such gusto and conviction it would put these guys to shame. But oh the singing. I'd forgotten just how much like angels it sounds like. It filled me up and I had to do my best not to burst out sobbing. It also sent my mind back to the South Seas and those special people singing of their special place and the lyrics "I must return to Samoa, return to paradise" - if only! The cheif and his wife left the fame behind and had a short drive to a park in the centre of town, where the usual sights of kids on swings, bushes and benches and a little kiddy steam train were intermingled with boiling mud and steam rising from the ground. Had a spagetti lunch and went to see about the chairlift ride up and taboggan ride down the town's hill. Looked a bit tame and didn't do anything for me so went to look into bungeeing, zorbing etc - which all looked anything but tame! Si wanted to do the Zorbing, and after seeing one in action (and the person coming out laughing) I swallowed my nerves and agreed. (for those who don't know; you can never get me on a bumper car ride or waltzer, let alone anything a little more adventurous). Got changed into shorts and vest and already shaking (I'm such a baby) - but I really wanted to do it. Got in truck with Zorb on the back which took us to the top of the steep hill. One at a time we had to take a run up and dive through the small round opening into the Zorb. Once inside the giant Human Hamster ball made from clear soft plastic (large outer with small inner chamber just big enough for two) they threw in 2 buckets of hot soapy water for a "twin cycle wash" then blasted us with a hose of freezing cold water (me screeming already). We stood up and had to start to walk forward - the ball instantly picking up speed down hill and Simon and became 2 crazed hampsters running to keep up - not for long, and we spent the roll down the hill being sloshed around head over heels like in a washing machine. I was screaming and laughing - I thought it was great fun - but I think it was a little tame for my hardened adrenaline ride adict husband. On a high we decided that there was nothing more we wanted to do in Rotorua and drove through countryside much more reminiscent of England (but glorious sunshine which turned to glorious sunset) to a place just outside of Cambridge. After a little toing and froing to find a good spot we pulled up by a lake and frolicing bunnies to settle down for the night with a few glasses of wine and good conversation.

Coromandel Peninsular, New Zealand 22nd Sept

Though in the layby of a quiet road we had the estury, fresh air, sharp amber morning light and birdsong to awaken us. By 9.30 we were in Thames strolling aroung it's Saturday market. What a weird and quirky little old town. Had a pioneer feel to it, with goldrush style shopfronts and contrasting 'Dolls' houses. The market was unlike any I have ever been to. Are we in the 50's? Locals laid out their homebaked cakes or organic grown pears like a village fete from strangeville with the soundtrack supplied by a couple of old dears playing ragtime on organ and saxaphone. It was perfectly odd. Happily we came away with homebaked lemon & blueberry cake, date and walnut scones and organic apples (which were so good that Simon went back for more and returned with a carrier bag full!). Bizarre street party behind we drove on and up the Coromandel Peninsular, which was just as nice as the more famous Bay of Islands, but more rugged and extreme, and even better coastal views of the islands. Difficult to remember the names of the places we stopped off at as we were just pulling up as and when we wanted to and the scenery begged for more time. It's great. A good beach was Cooks Beach (named after you know who!) where to feel the sand between my toes again was like coming home. An even better beach was Cathedral Cove. 35min walk through lovely rich forest to a secluded bay reached only in low tide, and a picturesque arch/cave on beach taking you through to more pillars of rock in the sea and tiny dotted islands further off. Weather was very nice and we had the place almost to ourselves. I couldn't help but dance and leap around the beach feeling great. Simon did his equivilant; stripped to his pants and went for a swim. It was freezing, but he looked gorgeous, and I think that was like coming home for him. Back in the van we ate our beans on toast with a great view and sighed a sigh of relief as a bus load of tourists were dropped off to stand and look at the view for 15min before being horded back on the bus again. Driving back down the Peninsular I sat in the back of the van drifting in and out of sleep, wanting to stay awake for the scenery and the gentle light, but constantly being lulled back to slumber. Just outside Rotorua we pulled in, had a fish and chip supper, a couple of beers and the best of company to end a great day.

Bay of Islands, Northlands, New Zealand 21st Sept

Well, there were no taps on the window last night (despite being parked right by a gorgeous little lake with tiny moored boats and great back drop), however, when we opened the curtains we became face to face with nosey neighbours that had come to check us out. I went out to talk to them and we had a lovely 6am breakfast with them in the fresh morning air. They made me laugh with their funny antics and they nearly ate me out of bread. We wanted to go for a walk so we said goodbye to them - we walked off down the street and they waddled off back to the lake quacking goodbye. We couldn't have chosen a better place to spend our first night. The town was such a sweetie! Tiny with a wide trickling stream, the oldest stone building and the oldest wooden building in NZ right by the stream. We walked to a Maori village - large authentic and very interesting. I love learning about different cultures and especially hearing the stories and legends that accompany them. Then we went on to Rainbow Falls - and like the name suggests, the wide deep falls were crowned with rainbows. What a morning. To say that I didn't want to come to NZ, I'm certainly having a good time! Drove up towards the Bay of Islands with the lovely and changing scenery at every turn. Relaxed.Stopped off at a couple of small towns which were 'just as sweet as they could be' ...(mmm, can see I'm going to be over using the word sweet!) There are flowers everywhere - bursting out at you. Boarded a small car ferry from Paihato to Russel and found Russel to be sooo much cuter- How? As we walked around this town felt as though I was in fairy land. Wanted to pinch the town's cheeks but ended up just saying 'ooooo' alot. Drove around the coast with stunning views of the island littered green sea. Everywhere has Moari names which are very confusing as they're all so similar. The people greet you with smiles - but why wouldn't you be smiling here? Drove the scenic route back south and decided to keep on going - through a magical Aukland at night with its lights from the skyscrapers dappling the harbour - till we at last fell into bed at Miranda.

Aukland, New Zealand 20th Sept

Today we picked up ur new home for the next 3 weeks (complete with toilet, shower, cooker and fridge) and felt excited to have the open road infront of us. What a suprise the countryside is already. It's changed so much in such a small distance. Yes there are bits that look similar to England - rolling pastures, grazing sheep and grand old 'Constable' trees, but, also pampas grass, reeds, yuckas, giant black stemed ferns and stout lush palm trees. It's like driving through an endless botanical garden, where all the contrasting species are displayed side by side. We've also seen narrow shallow strips of beach with moorland shrubs and hills behind. Not bad for our first day! The houses here are deliciously sweet. Small wooden, painted delicate lilacs and 'Love heart' colours, with wooden awnings and delicately carved latticework. They look like pretty ladies surrounded by flowers - or are they all just versions of the gingerbread house? We went to the Waipaua Kauri Forest which though dense and lush, was as silent as could be - spooky. Saw the famousTe Matua Ngahere (father of the forest) - with its 5m diameter trunk & probably 4000yrs old - it certainly was! Continued driving and stopped off at the coast a couple of times for little walks. Found the Kiwis lovely - so friendly and really kind and cheery. Pushed on and it was finally dark when we spotted a place to pull up for the night. Feel shattered and as we snuggle into bed can't help but feel like someone will be tapping on the window and asking us to move along.

Auckland, New Zealand Wed 19th September

(first of all an apology for how tediously boring and mundane the previous entry was – but it did actually feel good to be doing normal-type things.) – as it did today, working out plans and routes etc Booked the van ( an absolute luxury compared with what we’ve lived with over the last 9 months) and had a stroll (found a Camden

Buenos Aires, Argentina - Aukland, New Zealand 17th – 18th September

Boarded our 1.20am Monday morning plane with much reluctance. I really don’t want to leave South America. Was feeling absolutely shattered, but couldn’t sleep at all as there was too much buzzing around in my head: what an achievement our Washington DC to Buenos Aires travels were; the different countries and experiences; thinking how weird it will be to understand the small talk on a bus, or to be able to ask for anything and be completely understood, were all swimming in a big mush. Was quite a flight: probably as it was emotional too – sorting stuff out in my head before NZ, but also with the thought of trying to hold onto everything as long as possible. Crossed date and time lines. Think the flight was about 13 hours and finally landed in our new and English-speaking country at 5.20am Tues 18th. Bought Lonely Planet at the airport (and hoped it would be better for NZ than Cental & South Am) then took a bus to a backpackers hostel. Gracias keeps slipping out! Everything seems so green and lush – what a contrast to Patagonia. Tall modern spacious buildings and gleaming skyscrapers pack the city streets. The bus driver was so friendly and helpful – in fact, everyone has been so far. First thing we did was to go to a cafe and have the largest plate of toast, fried eggs, baked beans, chips and brown sauce we could find, swilled down with plenty of hot tea – god it tasted like heaven! Sat by the harbour in the middle of the city in order to allow our stomaches to digest, whilst we talked about our options. Tried to sleep for an hour then lovely shower and hair wash, and out feeling like a new person to get info on camper vans. Loaded with leaflets and price sheets we returned to the harbour to work it all and make our decision (seems very reasonable), unlike the shopping I had to load up on (toiletries etc) – ouch! After sitting and going through the whole of the NZ book to see where we wanted to go, and what route to take, we felt shattered – been a long day. Sat and ate marmite on toast in our backpacker that was situated in the midst of brothels and massage parlours and reflected on my first impressions of NZ – seems really nice, the people are very (and genuinely) friendly, loads of Chinese or Malasian here as well as loads of tourists (which was a shock to the system), the weather is very pleasant – not too hot or sunny – but this doesn’t stop every Kiwi being decked out in shorts and shades. Feel quite at a loss in this country, as we are now used to the unfamiliar – but we got mail (at the consulate) from England with kind words that made us feel good. Know that it’s yet again a case of having to adjust to our environment ( and not put toilet paper in the bin, but down the toilet ) and we’ll be ok.