Cusco, Peru 26th June

Must have really needed the sleep because we slept for about 11 hours! Out having breakfast by 9, then an hour of emailing before spending the day chasing our tails over various things. Called mum and dad - it's good to talk! Sent some postcards. Went to train station to find time/info etc for the local train to Machu Picchu tommorrow. Closed and guard totally unhelpful, so had to trek to the other side of town to the other train station. There we were told that we couldn't catch the local train ($5) but only the tourist train ($30!) We were very knarked (and didn't believe her). Decided to take our chances in the morning. By this time we were both quite tetchy. The altitude has a bad effect on you (sore eyes,dry mouth,can'y breathe properly, short patience and everything seems so dificult and so much work.) Had food, but wasn't terribly nice. I didn't mind it too much (warm, plenty and vitamins/carbohydrates) but I could tell Simon was really struggling, bless. Then we sat in the square and wound down. Started to laugh and get back to ourselves. Back at the hotel we asked if we could leave our packs with them for one night and then return for 3 more days (was fine) but also found out that there is no way we can catch the local train as it is now only for poeple living at Agua Calientes ( by Machu Picchu) and there is no option but to get the tourist train (as some American has bought the company, changed the rules and upped the prices!! Thanks!) Annoyed again .- there goes the budget! Today has been a bit of a mess and frustrating. We took it as a sign that we are rushing into things when we're not ready. Decided to buy the tickets tomorrow and go the next day (maybe we'll be better aclimatised anyway) Ended the day having a rewarding beer on the balcony at the hotel, then reading 'South' in bed by snuggly candlight.

Cuzco, Peru Mon 25th June

Went through the night (about 10hrs) without any toilet stops. Guess there just wasn't anywhere... Andies etc! Eventually stopped, did the necessaries and also had breakfast. Now that we are really high,the landscape has turned from barren to lush again. The houses are all made of mud bricks with tiled roofs. Freezing during night but then scorching once the sun had come up. Extremes. Cracking views...bigger and better and lots of snow-capped mountains. Was glad to arrive in Cusco as I'd just about had enough - been a rough couple of days. It's really big. All buildings the same style and colour stone and have Venician style decorative balconies and arched waqlkways under. Really pretty. Got in cab to hotel (luckily there was a room- been a huge sun festival so thought it would be full) First thing we did was to have a cup of cocoa leaf tea (supposed to help with altitude). Then a walk around the steep cobbled streets and found a charming little place where we ate dinner on a balcony over-looking the main square with cathedral, church, fountain, pretty picturesque buildings around, the replica of the Rio Jesus statue lit on the hill all under an amazing 'Turner' sky. Feel overtired, but secure and glad to be here.

Huacachina, Ica PERU Sat 24rd June

Bed at 8.30pm but awake again at 9 due to unbelievably loud music from a wedding party at the hotel, which went on until 5am!!Few hours sleepin the morning but vivid dreams and a headache. Sat by the oasis and had lunch. Simon complained to the hotel owner and got some money back. Then off to Ica with the packs and did some internetting. Si went off to get our tickets to Arequipa,but returned looking rather pale, and put a newspaper infront of me. It was my turn to go pale as I saw the headline and frontpage photos. There had been an earthquake yesterday in Arequipa... 30people dead (now 55) over 300 hospitalised and 80% of houses destroyed. The photos were horific. It was very scarey. If we hadn't spent the extra day in Vilcabamba, or if the internet wasn't so cheap here that we decided to stay an extra day... then we would be there, and..? Can't even think about it. We felt the tremours yesterday - like a bumpy, jostling bus and it was very frightening, but had no idea of the destruction that was taking place at our next destination. The firghtening thing is that no matter how careful or sensible you are, there are some things that you just have no control over. Wrong place at the wrong time sort of thing. We emailed family etc to let them know that we were ok, even though we knew that the news hadn't broken yet. Then a change of plans. We're going to Cuzco. 17hours. Bus should have arrived at 8.30, but was 10pm when we actually got underway. Felt tired and shell shocked and just wanted to crawl under some covers and be somewhere nice, calm and safe. Instead I had a nightmare of a journey that just nearly tipped me over the edge. It was pitch black and we were crossing the Andies. It was so steep, and the bends were hairpin and unbelievabley tight - you couldn't see any extra road at the side as you turned the corners.. it was like we were hanging over the edge on each bend. I was petrified. To make my nerves just that extra bit shreaded the driver played this loud bizarre music, like a Spanish translated Japaneese opretta. Much screeching, screaming and high pitched hysterical laughter. It was harrowing!

Huacachina, Ica PERU Sat 23rd June

On first view this morning I now know that I am indeed in the Twighlight Zone! This place is in the middle of giant sand dunes - miles of the things, and the oasis is a small lake surrounded by palm trees and 2 faded pre-war hotels. Quite sweat in a strange way. Guess I'm not adjusted to Peru yet! Went to Ica for money, a wander around and a delicious ice-cream. Caught one of the weird 3 wheel bubble cabs back to the oasis and rented 2 sand boards. Oh my god!!! The sand dunes are STEEP and you can only take about 8 steps before you have to stop due to exhaustion. What hard work. (I did a couple of trial runs at the bottom to practice standing up and movement and weight balance etc) before the long climb to the top. Didn't think my heart would make it - but it did. Eventually when we reached the top we were litterally on a crest of sand - the ridge of the dune. The views were stunning and strange and weird and exhillorating and spine-tingely and unimaginable. Wow! After a long rest and taking in this obscure and foreign landscape we made our decent. Like real pros. You can get really fast, so we had to stop ourselves a couple of times to get the speed down. What a rush. I never thought I would have the nerve to do it, but I did and it was fantastic - a real high. The rest of the evening I was trying to calm down as I had so much adrenalin pumpimg around me. Great. Sat by the oasis eating dinner and still buzzing.

Journey to Huacachina PERU thurs 21st -22nd June

Basically we spent the next 36 hours travelling on 3 busses to Peru. Will keep it short as the whole thing seems to have blurred into one. Peru...what do I think? So far it's been nothing but a barren wasteland. Sky void of colour as a year-round mist shrouds the land, which is in turn as dead as could be. Its flat with desert as far as the eye can see. You could describe it as dull, drab, grim... but I think utterly depressing is more fitting! Give me back Ecuador! Managed to sleep whenever I needed it, and the pysical journey was fine...just don't look out of the window. The best thing I've enjoyed about Peru so far has been the movie that they played on the bus..Charlies Angels!? The houses that are along the way- just plopped in the middle ogf this barren landscape- are dull one-story squallors, made from the sand floor or from woven mats. They look like cities from another planet, or from a film of Earth after the holocaust..I kept expecting to see mutants walking around. Oh, and we'll not talk about LIma - urgh! At last arrived at Ica, but still seemed a little much to cope with so we pushed on 20 min more to Huacachina, an oasis in the sand dunes. It's dark so I'll reserve my judgement till the morning light. Strange, I thoght I was coming to Peru, but somehow I've ended up in the Twighlight Zone!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 20th June

You'll be glad to hear that we finally got out of the hammocks today. Went into town and sat and had hot chocolates. THen went to the local zoo. Sweat little place with large enclosures and happy animals. Was a bear eating corn off the cob- funny to watch. Also lovely Pumas; the male trying his hardest to have his way with the female...who wasn't having any of it, and protested loudly. We were real close and was interesting to see all the neck biting, growling, plying etc that took place between the two of them (sorry for the lack of privicy Pumas!) Then walk back to town the long way round to take in the best views. Donkeys loaded up with ballast from the river finding their own way home passed infront of us with a slow clip clop. In town tried to fix our journey for tommorrow with lots of toing and froing and blar blar blar. Back at the cabin we settled into our last night in Vilcabamba abd indeed Ecuador. Loved both and feel reluctant and sad to move on. Sure we'll come back one day, but as for now, we know that there are pleanty of other things to see and do out there...so on we go.

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 19th June

Upto shops for more goodies only to descover on my return that someone had eaten/taken quite a bit of our food. Whats wrong with people? Cooked breakfast for Simon (he's been so good looking after me, and I feel completly recovered now). Sorry, not much to write about as we spent the day relaxing and not doing much.Later though we did have our very own tournament of 'Blockbusters' We made the board and had an ingenious way of making up questions. Was realy good (though I'm sure Simon only played it to make up for us playing Canaster last night - not a big fan) but it was all fun anyway. Both sad to leave tommorrow...so we decided to stay another day!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador Mon 18th June

Feel so much better today, however, still spent the morning in the hammock finishing my book; Steven King's Needful Things. Had a really enjoyable day watching the butterflies chasing each other, listening to the sound of the stream and laughing at Simon's impromptu traditional Panamanic dance wearing the upturned brimmed hat from off the cabin wall. Later we had a walk down the valley. AAhh, pure air and calm, inspiring views all cradled in a loving protecting valley where the strong and golden sun dances through the clouds to enrich the sights. We just stood and looked at the beauty; it makes your insides drop and lowers your heart rate to give you same feeling as just before you doze off into a lovely deep and dreamy sleep - but you are deffinately awake because you feel so alive. Came back and climbed to the top of the hill to watch the sunset. Tonight it had an opponant, a rival for beauty: a perfect bright rainbow on the opposite side of the sky. We sat snuggled together, wide eyed and at complete peace. That night in bad we were visited by a flock of fireflies. They were really big and divebombed us from all directions. It was like a laser show - it was a bit creepy. Then I flashed my watch light at them and they stopped in their tracks... they must have thought I was the biggest Firefly in the world!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 17th June

Si was up and off to the grocery shop before I was up, and returned with a bag of goodies for the next few days. Basically, I spent the whole day relaxing in the hammock and trying to get better. Feel nice and relaxed at least!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 16th June

Wasn't looking forward to the 8 hour journey as I was quite under the weather with this cold. We got Eddie the KId for our bus driver though, and soon passed the bus that departed an hour before us. Vilcabamba is just the place for me to rest up and get well again. It's a beautiful little town with a lush green square and 3 tiered fountain infront of a cool coloured pristine church, nestled in a Summery valley; fresh and calm. The town is famous because it's residents live to be over 100 years old. Already I can see why. We are staying in a white stone cabin with log roof about 20mins walk out of town, on the slope of the hillside. It's covered in long thin trees, with the mountains beyond and a small singing stream that winds around the cabin and down the hillside. It's a spacious cabin with a large balcony/decking with table and two hammocks. What more could you want? (there is also a kitchen 3mins away under the next cabin) Settled straight into a hammock for the rest of the day, to relax and watch hundreds of varieties of butterflies flutter by, catching the light as it filters through the trees. Bliss. Later we go down to the house and have a lovely meal made by the French couple that own the cabins. Feel quite ill, but glad to be here.

Cuenca, Ecuador 15th June

Turned into a stinking old cold (but better than having it in England at work!) Won't mension how great the scenery was (it was) coz it must be getting so tedious for you.Cuenca is a great town. Quite large with old architecture crossed between Savannah, US and Granada, Nicuragua. Large fruit markets, grand churches and picturesque river running through it. Feel worn out coz of the cold though, and it feel quite weird to be in a city again. That's all for now, not sure if we'll stay here another night ormove on tomorrow to somewhere quieter.(we're becoming real hermits aren't we!)

Ingripirca (ruins) Ecuador 14th June

Beatiful bus ride in which the hairs on the back of my neck stood up on end. Higher and higher till we were passed the clouds and looking down on the mountain tops and the cloud below that. Feel like I'm balanced on top of the world. What a feeling! Would have liked the journey to be longer, but only 3 breathtaking hours. About half an hour before we got to Ingripirca over 30 indians piled onto the bus and packed it out.Their colours were even wilder, they wore detailed jewelry and the sweatest little white bowler hats with 2 pompomsdangling at the front (which Simon thought were to show which weren't married yet and still available!) 10 mins later the road was blocked by a truck which had a steamroller trying to drive down a steep bank onto it's back. There was much hillarity on the bus and the whole situation was crazy (I had an Indian girl sat on my knee due to lack of space) after much toing and froing we were on our way, and all the indians piled off at Ingripirca the same as us. This is a small, one hotel town and very friendly. We had only just arrived and the whole of the cafe were in conversation with us (Simon being his usual tease and having them on that he knew their Indian language!) Next the ruins, litterally 10mins down the road on the neighbouring hillside in full view of the village.It was empty, except for a few sheep and llama and a couple of women collecting grasses.There were great views practically 360*. Fab to be out in the fresh air and we took our time to walk around and take it in. On the Sun temple I could really understand why they worshiped it. Back in the town the Indians had been having a festival and dressed in their best clothesthey came walking down the hill banging a bass drum and scratching on an old fiddle as they carried a staff similar to in Guatamala, with a sort of Sun symbol on it. Then they all dispersed, went to the shop, ate barbequed pigs head, gossiped or went home. It was great. Had dinner of rice, chips and cold lentils and realised that my eyes and nose hadn't been hurting coz of altitude, but because I'd gotten a cold! If you believe in the pleasure / pain theory, then I don't mind the pain, if this pleasure is the pay-off. Saw the end of the sunset, where the bottom of the clouds were burnt deep red and in the crook of the valley hung solid white clouds with a dark blue mountain peak potruding. Beautiful.

Alausi (after the Devil's Nose ) wed 13th June

Went back the short way to Alausi to stay the night (all the other Gringos continued travelling - we wanted to make the most of what we'd seen and let it sink in). Outside the local bank, about 50/60 raditional Indians all queued up. There wasa multi coloured assortment of layered skirts with embriodered bands around the edge, shocking pink on electric blue, over blood red with vivid green.Shawls and socks contrasted with the skirts, babies on backs and porkpie hats. The place was buzzing. If you saw a photo of it, it wouldn't look real (like two different times and places in history stuck together). We found out that they waiting for their monthly handout of state benifit. Didn't realise the government subsidised them - it's good. They have such a tough life. Small houses on the sides of steep mountains, with no water, electricity or heating; working the land to provide food to eat and maybe a bit to sell. Had an early night as we were worn out, watching the setting sun reflect off the mountain outside our window with sleepy eyes.

Alausi and The Devil's Nose. Ecuador, wed 13th June

The reason we were in Riobamba was so we could take the famous train ride down to Alausi and The Devil's Nose (known for it's spectacular views on a steep and bendy old track) We clambered up the outside of the old red steam train and found a spot on the roof(had to be done) Despite me having 6 layers of clothes on, plus my longjohns under my trousers, I was freezing! Excitement mounted and at 7.30am we pulled out of the station, along the town streets and off into the big beyond. At first it was overcast and we could only see a letterbox hole through the clouds to the impressive snow filled Chimborazu mountain that dominates the skyline. Majestical hills higher than the heavens. Patchworks of farming contrasting in colour and texture right to the tip of the mountains or on sheer sides. A small child in traditional dress laughing as they rode rodeo on the back of a big black pig. Giant cacti that when in flower, sprout a fullsized tree from their centre full of blossom. Thus we continued through the contryside, up along small houses and people working on the land, the bright blues, reds and pinks of their skirts, shawls and ponchos punctuating the natural surround of greens. Each person we chugged passed no matter how distant or near, all stopped and waved us along. Then the clouds broke (we were actually above them) and the strong pure sun burned our faces red against the clear blue sky. We were right at the front of the train, but it wasn't too noisy or too sooty. The train went along tracks that were hacked out of the hillside with no extra room either side, just a few hunderd feet drop directly below, and would lean out as it went around a corner. The views went not only down, but up a few thousand feet as well as along into the distance through the valleys to what seemed like the end of the world. There was a tricky moment when we stopped at a small town and Simon jumped off to get us some maize for breakfast, then the train started up again and he was nowhere to be seen. Thought I'd be continuing alone, but then I saw him carefully making his way along the top of the moving train (with the adults and children selling coke and sweets etc from buckets) and back to our carriage roof. At last we were on the last leg of the ride, down the devils nose, where the ride is even more extreme and the land now desert and rocky. Wasn't as scarey as I'sd anticipated (guess both our fright levels have become much higher since leaving England 6 months ago). The whole journey lasted 5 & 1/2 hours and was the most breathtaking and stunning thing I've seen. An absolutely perfect way to see this insiring and fascinating country. Wow.

Riobamba, Ecuador 12th June

A patchwork quilt of fields blanketing the rolling hills, gentle, serene, calm and pretty. Lots of people out working the feilds or hearding thick wooley sheep.Yes it was a long and lovely journey. Had a pizza and a look around. Walking back to the hotel we saw a little hidden courtyard with lanterns hanging from trees, cosy and inviting. We sat outside and drank hot chocolate to warm our bodies to match our hearts. Piano music of old 50's songs drifted from inside the restaurant and as we sat with smiling eyes at each other, it reminded me of lots of other times when we've found a special little place and had a treasured little moment to ourselves. We glowed as we walked back.

Baños, Tunurahua, Ecuador 9th - 11th June

Woke up feling like I'd gone ten rounds with Tyson, but soon up and off to the office to complain about our immature guide. That done and dusted we could carry on with our journey. As we waited for the bus I saw 3 sacks of squeeling pigs being loaded onto the top of the bus, to go alongside of the dog that was tied to the roof via a rope around the neck! Now, Baños, what a lovely little place. We decided to stay a few days. Back to traditionally dressed Indians, nice people, good atmosphere. There is an active volcano that erupted in Nov 1999, the town had to be evacuated, but things were pretty much back to normal now. (not that we ever saw the volcano as there was constant cloud cover and none stop rain) This didn't damped our spirits though. We strolled up and down the narrow cobbled streets, saw roasted Guinea Pigs for breakfast, whilst in the doorways men make toffee by stretching it on large hooks - you can buy it whilst it's still soft, and tastes of molasses...yummy! In the square a childsize hobbie horse made from real pony awaits kiddies to sit on it's back and have their photos taken by an old fashioned, look through the back with cloth over the head, box camera. We went out to a small bar with a handful of locals and joined them in dancing to the live band playing traditional Ecua/Peru/Bolivian music. Fantastic. Relaxed and enjoyed the town and all it's life. We feel excited about the trip again.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 8th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 4)

The journey back was even worse (been lots of rain) I fell a few times, luckily nothing serious, just painful strains. One time was in the river so I had boots full of water for over an hour of walking. It took 3 hours to get back, it being so hard. The heavens were not kind and opened on us with a vengance. No shelter this time. It was quite traumatic and the most horrific and difficult thing I've ever done. Can't beleive we made it back (no thanks to Jimmy who was always ahead out of sight, so we had to get through it ourselves, not knowing which route to take or anything - his butt is in for such a kicking when we get back) Simon was my knight in shinning armour and saved me loads, despite his own struggles. Well, we certainly had our Amazon Adventure! Not for the faint hearted, or those without strong physical and mental endurance. It was good to visit a place so isolated and in such an extreme environment. Made the other jungle stuff look like a Disney cartoon. Amazon is a primative, harsh, unyeilding, unfriendly forest. It's no picnic, you don't mess with it - it messes with you, and my advice is leave well alone. It's something I'll definately never do again, but something I'll never forget either. I'm sure that in the future when things get really tough, I'll remember the amazon, and the problem at hand will pail into insignificance.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 8th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 3)

Breakfast of fish, yuca etc and a nice 'Lemongrass' tasting hot water. Toilet which is a wooden box with a lid into the ground below - didn't smell thoughand wash without soap in the stream by the house (never saw the others wash at all). Then we went with our guide for a walk in the caves. Ha ha! Walk, yes that word again. Hard climb to the enterance - where? Tiny cranny. dog sized that we had to squeeze through and up 10ft (should have known then) and then through and through and down a 30ft hole straight down with makeshift ladders whos rungs were too far apart for my reach of leg, so I ended up lowering myself to the next rung with my arms. Pitch black even with the 2 torches. Basically, to cut a long story short, we spent the next half an hour crawling on slippery rocks, squishing through holes, trying to pull ourselves through, up, or down dangerous crannies. Some caverns went high up into the open forest above, but wasn't worth all the crawling through water, mud and thick bat droppings. At one point I had an armeach side of cavern wall with one finger grip, a leg each side slipping fast into the rocks and water below. I thought, Why?? Yes I get the idea of what it must be like to be a troll, I don't have to continue any further through the bowls of Diabalo. This is definately not my idea of fun! So I called it quits and we crawled back. This wasn't caving, but potholing. Wet, muddy, smelling and a bit shakien I was releaved to be above land. So then we went to the mirador - no less of a feat to reach, but at least we had amazing views out across the intimidating amazon. On the way back we saw a spider the same size and hairyness as a tarantula, black with orange on it's legs. Loads of huge butterflies (thank god I'm over that one). Got back 3 hours later totally shattered. After more food we said our goodbyes, which took ages as Luis had had some friends over for a birthday drink and had been on straight alcohol all morning - he kept hugging Simon and getting us to toast his birthday. We gave them 2 candles and some antibiotic cream (hope they use it on the kids) and finally got away.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 7th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 2)

Eventually the village appearted smack in the middle of it all with no warning. (The village is actually really spread out; a house here and there in the jungle) This was the family that we'd be staying with. We crossed the stream via 2 fallen logs to their land. There was a wife Carmen (Linda Josephina) with a broad pleasant face, (strange to here cries of 'Linda, Linda!' in the amazon jungle!) The barechested husband Luis, short, proud and very amazonian looking, a niece and her husband and a handful of small children running fully or semi naked, which they would shoo away like chickens. Dogs, cats, chicks, turkeys, ducks, a monkey and 2 parrots made up the rest of the entourage. The grounds were large with a dinning house, cooking/family house, meeting/living house and guest house. Instead of seperate rooms they had seperate houses. All were large, wooden, with amazing palm thatching. We introduced ourselves (guide lacking in social skills) whilst Linda prepared our room and food.Urghh! Bowl with river water that the fish had been caught and cooked in. Fish hadn't been cleaned or gutted and mine had eggs spilling out. It had hard thick scales more like armour and looked prehistoric. I also had a small slimy eel. Both were horrid. Also had yuca and papschicha (a jungle potate but heavier and more solid, nice though). Later (guide in bed) we weren't sure what to do so played with the kids who were really sweet, but had open sores where they'd fallen, which hadn't been cleaned, and had dirt and flies in them. Then Luis called us over, Linda had prepared a special traditional drink made from the yuca by lots of hand squishing. We drank from half a coconut - tasted weird, not very pleasant, sort of like a Kava in the South Pacific. I asked if it was alcoholic, which they thought was really funny (why else drink it?) - aparantly gives you lots of strength. Luis told us he was 50 today (same birthday as Graham!), Simon dissapeared and came back with a leaf, which when Luis unwrapped it, it was a tiny pair of folding pliers. Well luis thought these were the bee's knees and showed then around with much pride (what he'll do with those out there I have no idea, except show them his friends and be envied) Later we went with L & Linto the jungle (their land) to farm the vegetables. Luis lead the way in his wellies showing us which plants and fruit were what, and Linda followed carrying the headstrap basket and doing all the work in her bare feet. We dug out papachichas and yucas (which you then chop up the wooden stalks and plant; 6 months later a whole new crop - cleaver eh?) Their farm was huge with more than enough to eat (couldn't work out why the kids had large swollen hunger-like stomaches) Linda carried them all back. This tribe of Indians used to be violent warriors and would shirnk heads of their enimies. I saw Luis sizing up Simon a couple of times, but I think it was too much of a challenge! Seriously though, I wouldn't like to have crossed him. They no longer wear only loin cloths, but their way of life is definately the same. Then more food (nice boiled water with leaves, like herbal tea) served from a couldren chatting about their way of life etc and by 6.30pm it was pitch black. Weird to out here in the middle of all this.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 7th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 1)

Dropped our packs at the old carpenter's house and went for bus. Jimmy our guide wasn't over talkative, maybe he'll settle in. The ride was stunning and we went further and further into the jungle till you could go no further. Then it was the 2.5 hour walk to the village. There is no way, by any stretch of the imagination, in any language, that could be called a walk. We swung on branches, climbed over rocks, up sheer faces, skidded into mudd pits, slid down sand banks, balanced like gymnasts over narrow sticks of branches, clambered, slid, edged, crawled, but most of all prayed! Through jungle that had a deep mud floor, balancing and jumping - and falling part way in. Luckily we reached a palm leann-to just a the rain really came hard, so shaltered and took time out for 45 min. Then on in the moderate rain for a while. We went along the sandy river bank through mangroves, then jumping from one giant pebble to the next on the bottom of the river bed (when it's fuller), stepping stones to cross the river at a couple of inlets and worst part of all. We were on the side of the river, on a ledge, the raging river 25 foot below at a sheer drop, not only home to pirhanas, but so violent that if you fell in you would have zero % chance of survival. Here we had to skim along the edge only a yard wide for about 20min. It was extremely slippy with slime and algae over the rock, so no grip. The rock face went up on the other side of you, with nothing to hold onto. Sometimes there were over-hangs and you had to find a tiny finger cranny and with all your might pull yourself round the protruding rock, over the river, to be able to continue. This also happened but with little trckles of waterfalls. I have never been so frightened in all my life. It was life threatening and bloody stupid really. It reminded me of crazy extreme Buster Keaton sketch - only this wasn't funny. I was praying for both of us to come out alive, and was actually amazed to come out of it with no broken bones. I started to worry, knowing we had to go back!

Puyo, Pastaza, (Amazonia) Ecuador 6th June

Roads bad - lots collapsed and muddy, but reached Puyo ok. Quite large really and 'modern' to say how far it's in. Good atmosphere and no gringos here. The office we were looking for had been burnt to the ground, but we found the makeshift one via a nice indian man with beautiful long hair. This organisation works alongside the Amazonian indians, employing many of them and doing lots of work in the community. After much discussion we organised a visit to a village and to stay with a family there. We're really excited, an Amazon Adventure!

Misahualli, Nabo (Amazonia) Ecuador 5th June

Simon negotiated with a boat man to take us down river to a reserve - eventually we got the price we wanted and off we went down the river in a long motorized dugout. The river was fast flowing and quite violent in parts (first time we've been asked to wear life jackets) at one point a full grown tree collapsed into the river a few metres infront of us, a minute later and it would have been on us! This river has a much harsher fell then all the others. At the reserve we got shown around and got to see loads of animals. (it's a refuge centre for injured/orphaned animals, which they nurse and release if they can) Lots of monkeys and other animals running around free (inc a wild Caiman that just hangs around) the others are in large 'cages' coz they are too violent or too dependant on humans (inc a very cleaver trained monkey that used to open all the cages, let the other animals out and take them to the kitchens and have a party!) Was a really good place. The boat back took 1/2 hour longer coz we were going up river, the skies had brightened and it was a good ride. The rest of the day, more planning Peru and Bolivia and relaxing.

Misahuallli, Nabo (Amazonia) Ecuador Mon 4th June

(Well, when we arrived home yesterday, we realised the panoramic camera had been stolen. We know exactly when it happened; an unbelievably crowded tram, and it was taken from Simon's trouser pocket. The ironic thing was, that later that day we went to find a camera holder for it (not knowing that it had already been stolen). Bit annoyed as the film was nearly finished and had stuff on it that isn't on the other camera as we were using it when the other was brpken! Also, all that lovely South American scenery, the perfect subject for a panoramic camera! Never mind, it could have been worse. Thanks Peggy, it was good whilst we had it.)
The ride to Tena was the usual stunning scenery, gradually getting lower through the clouds, not only ear-popping, but my nose got just a bit bloody. Eyes were peeled every step of the way as the landscape became more and more jungle-like. Canopies of trees and watching as tiny trickles of streams became steady flows, into long waterfalls, building into a river....the start of the Amazon! The transition from one terrain to the next I saw colours like never before, deep bright shades of sage and a wonderful mustard-green, pampas grasses as tall as houses, strange mosses and eventually thousands of miles of forest. Then the bus to Misahualli, the small town as far into the area you can get. As I sat in the square (town basically a few houses around it) waiting for Si to get a hotel, there were tiny children swinging from trees to my left and monkeys swinging from trees to my right. Kids playing marbles infront and a man playing guitar and singing behind me. Nice town. We sat and looked up more of the journey and decided what we wanted from this area. Evening we walked to the river (1 min) where the wide flow was flanked by thick trees each side, a deep blue sky above and a full moon throwing it's silvery light onto the ripples.In the square was more singing, bike riding, more marbles, hopskotch and the monkeys chasing the dogs and pulling their tails. Can't believe how different it is from this morning. Aquired a little friend (who hung around the next couple of days) - a little deaf boy, Telma, with no structured Sign Language, but we could communicate just fine, and played a game with a top and pebbles with him.

Quito, (Mital del Mundo) Ecuador 3rd June

Slept much better, and feel almost fully adjusted to the altitude now. (forgot to tell you that I actually got a bit sunburnt - despite the factor 15. Decepitive, as it feels quite cold most of the time but the sun is very strong) Most of the morning we spent reading our books and planning our route.(inc a rough itinery for Peru, and will do the same for the rest of the countires. We get the feeling that there is so much to see down here that we don't want to waste any precious time, so knowing where to go and roughly how long at each place will allow us to spend the time better - plus not double up on things etc) Afternoon we went to bus station to figure out busses for tomorrow - but with much difficulty. Don't think we'll be able to go direct after all! Then off to Mital Del Mundo ( the middle of the world) where the Equator cuts the world in half, to stand with a foot in each hemesphere. There was a great research centre there that explained all about how the Incas used this very place, and the places off of it in each direction lining up with other sun sites. It was unbelievable and stunning the acuracy they had over huge distances, and the temples built on the tops of mountains that were specific to dates and times. What made the day even better was that there was a live band playing. The youngest was 4 and the eldest in his late teens. They all played many instruments (wooden flutes, panpipes, tiny guitars etc) and sang. The traditional music was incredably spiritual and moving. I've herd that sort of music before and liked it. But out here in the proper surroundings and knowing the temperament of the people - it sounds perfect. Haunting and beautiful and a reflection of all that is around. As we journeyed back the two of us sat there grinning like fools. I felt so full on the inside. Lovely. Tommorrow (just as we are used to the altitude) we are venturing into the Amazon. Can't wait.

Quito, (& Otavalo) Ecuador 2nd June part 2

As we came into the market town we first drove passed the animal market and saw dozens of people walking back home with leading their newly purchased pigs on pieces of string. So cute! I saved describing people till this section: We are back with the little people! The Indians - of which most are - have amazing hair, thick dark and very long. It looks especially wicked on the men. There are 2 types of dress. One has white blouses, puffed sleaves then flairing out, little lace and embroidery, but very subtle. They have dark wraparound skirts with a white one beneath, a black shoulder blanket and strings of gold beeds around their necks. The others (and more common) are exactly like how you imagine in Peru and Bolivia. Small and rounded by all the clothes; flaired coloured skirts, coloured jumpers and blankets ( the men wearing ponchos that are reversable, which they flick over their shoulder to reveal the underside of contrasting colour. They are stylish, classic and quite formal looking and made to the highest quality.), long plats and of course the little trilby style hats. They look fantastic. I have had my eye on the hats - even before coming out here I've wanted one, so where better than from the market? There are quite a few different styles, but all are small and worn mostly by the women. Mine is very dark teal and the best way I can describe it is like a really extreme pork pie hat - much higher, slightly sloping backwards with a tiny brim of just over 1 inch. Simon says I look like one of the Ant Hill Mob from Wacky Races ( thing is, I can see the resemblance myself!), but never mind, I think it's great. We also bought woven ribbons, woven waist sash and a maroon Lllama wool scarf. Bargins! It was so nice to walk around as there was no hassling and touting at all. There were a few old people begging for money though ( I think we'll much more of this the further south we go).
When we returned to Quito we went to a bar on the main drag to join the locals in watching the Ecuador V Peru football match. They were mental.; people screaming if it the ball went in the opposing half (where it spent most of it's time) and woos and cheers if it got in their half. It was very funny. By pure fluke they ended up winning. Well the people went crazy, music full blast, dancing, screaming, singing . They poured out onto the road, blocked the traffic, sprayed beer and jumped up and down. This went on for a few hours getting bigger and bigger, till thy were climbing on the cars, rocking them and going berzurk. It was brilliant ( good atmosphere, childern and babies and grannies all taking part) We went to bed shattered and loving Quito even more.

Quito, (& Otavalo) Ecuador 2nd June part 1

Still not much sleep, but felt ok as though my eyes were open, my body rested. Altitude makes your nose really hurt, feeling blocked. A little harder to get a full lung of air, but most of all it's really drying. All the time in sweltering heat and I've never felt as thirsty as I do here - constantly. Mouth is without moisture and your eyes seem like there is no fluid around them, but not as tired as I thought I'd be. Up early and bus to Otavalo in the north of Ecuador. I cannot believe the scenery. I never expected it to change so dramatically so soon. We are so high and the mountains surround you even higher, with Volcanoes covered in snow. The landscape changes from impassable stretches of flat topped land with deep grooved gorges to that of the Swiss Alps, to that resembling Tuscany. The sheer scale and vastness is superb. Up here because the air is so thin everything looks sharper and more acute than normal. It's like you can see in detail as far as you can see, and all the colours jump out at you, deeply saturated. It's like stepping into a world with a new super powered pair of eyes.

Quito, Ecuador 1st June

Didn't really sleep because of the high altitude (3000 metres) and also I was freezing despite the 2 blankets, but happy to be here. After breakfast we took a tram downtown - to the old town. It reminded me of Mexico somehow - maybe the colonial buildings and the large beautiful plaza/squares. It's not at all like Mexico in atmosphere though as its sweet, quiet and relaxed. Nothing like a big city, never mind a Capital city! Guess the climate and altitude have something to do with it, not to mension that it's surrounded by huge scale hills, that just chill you out. We went up a church tower. Climbed all the way up on iron ladders, passed the clockface, bell tower (I had to stop; altitude, wind, cold and a bit dizzy from the height ) but Simon went even further. Scary. The views though - wow. You could see the whole of Quito, it goes on forever, and the mountains. I really can't describe it so I'm going to try or it just ends up sounding 'samey' and detracts from the exhilaration of the sight. Walked back through the narrow, steep old town, through a park full of people relaxing & children playing amongst carved wooden sculptures, and another park which had a moat around it and lots of people boating. So light hearted and relaxed in the middle of the main bit of city. Been a really great day. Both of us are excited about being in and seeing Ecuador.

Quito, ECUADOR SOUTH AMERICA 31st of May

Did a bit of shopping to make sandwiches etc. Simon finally got a shirt that he's had his eye on. Worn in Nicuraguga and Panama; it is short sleeved with pleats and buttons (sounds horrendous, but really dashing and smart) Then off to the airport on the pouring rain. We were looking forward to buying a video camera for the rest of the journey, but luckily we found out before buying one that the systems are American and not compatable with Britain. Disapointed! With excitement we left Central America which then trippled as we flew into South America. The night was pitch black, then all of a sudden there were lights. In a valley, stretching as far as the eye could see in one long line, with absolutely nothing either side, as if the end of the world was on either side, we came in. The lights were only gold and silver shinning. It looked like a future space city and we were in an X-Wing Fighter making our way in. It really took our breath away. Strange, you'd think that all flights over a city would look pretty much alike, but this was magical and beautiful and unlike anything I've experienced before. A good omen.Once landed we could see that the airport was litterally in the street, with houses starting very close. Leaving the airport there were no cab drivers hassling us, we just picked one up and headed off to our hotel (as it was now gone 9pm). Gosh... it's cold!