Running down a dream.

Wellington - South Island - New Zealand 27th Sept

Didn't sleep too good & when I woke felt terrible and just couldn't get up - so snoozed and snoozed. Poor Simon - the day that I'm laid up happens to be the worst of weather - drizzly, cloudy, windy and not too great scenery wise! Had the large fry up that I was craving and pulled up at a fantastic beach. 'Otaki Beach' was an ongoing strip of sand not unlike 90 mile beach, with large chunks of smooth driftwood, invigorating sea with waves breaking 5 deep, wild fresh elements and an over excited 'Dulux' dog running around. Thought I'd jumped into a TV commercial - but for one thing, which was a homemade grave made from driftwod twigs. A simple wooded cross with the youngmans name and under that - one word...why. Wrapped around it was a bandanna, a neclace and a feather. Don't know what it was about it - the simplicity, the setting- but felt very moved by it. This indeed was a very spiritual place to rest, but there must have been a sad story behind it. Felt very connected and very humble. Felt quite cleansed and much better - think I'm just run-down (in the back of my mind worrying about Oz).The ever reliable and intune Simon came up behind me and gave me a hug - reading my mind- and assured me about everything. Drove around huge posh houses with stunning views up the hillside - San Francisco style before bording the ferry and getting best seats upfront to watch harbour lights welcome us to the south island.

Tongariro National Park , New Zealand 26th Sept

Last night I slept with a skydiver!! Great day of driving around the lake, to rivers and around the National Park of Tongario. Yawn yawn as I explain more countryside... pastorial to brush to forest to lakes - even opposite sides of the road can be completely different.Went up to the Ski resort, which was packed with families having fun - none of the posing snobbery you find in European resorts. The prices were good, but just didn't feel like it - think I may be getting a cold actually. Was glorious weather again for our drive through a deep valley with hairpin turns and beautiful mountainside, forest and river below - the odd 5 house town cropping up now and again with strange out of place names like London and Jerusalem. Wanted to find somewhere nice to settle early for the night - but all the places were just 'OK' and not very private and Simon was on a mission for perfection. Drove on and on into a burning sunset, and then tried to find a beach, but long drives only to find it private at the end. At last and a little frazzled found a dock by Foxton beach. Settled, had a beer and did the crossword till we dropped off .. (to sleep, not the dock!)

Lake Taupo, New Zealand 25th Sept

AHH, lovely morning again and ate my cerial by the water, fed the ducks and felt relaxed and contented. Went to Huka Falls - a large wide rapid river and small but ferocious waterfall, from which the majority of NZ power comes from. Walked the woodlands beside the river which was tapwater clear except for by the falls, where it became light aqua blue due to the air in the water. Next off to craters of the moon & thermal area. Looked strange to see friendly gentle countryside with steam leaking from it - like it was hiding something much more sinister. Then Simon "just wanted to enquire about skydiving" and before I knew it he was all kitted out in his flying suit & goggles and waiting for the plane to come! While Simon was being instructed how to take the shape of 'Big Banana' in the air and the other instructions, I was sat having a cup of tea (that I wished was Brandy) and watched them pack the parachutes. Then a goodbye kiss for good luck and off he went into the tiny plane and I could see him right by the perspex door. Did feel strange that I wasn't sat there crying or sat on the toilet, but just hoping that he would enjoy it to the full. Half an hour later the plane no longer being visible, there was a shout that they were coming down and I looked up to see a few tiny dots that were the parachutes - there was no way you'd beable to see them freefalling - just too high up. I ran to the field they were due to land in and watched the slow calm desent. I knew what colour chute Simon had, so could follow him gliding gently - and then later doing a few stunt turns and spirals. I wondered what on earth sort of experience he'd had falling from a plane at 200km per hour and seeing the world from a totally different perspective come hurtling towards you - then the silent decent and the amazing views of this stunning countryside, lake and mountains. I knew that no matter how well he would describe it to me, there would be no way I would ever comprehend it without doing it myself, and couldn't help but feel a little pang of jealously that I couldn't do it myself. This is the first thing this year that we haven't both experienced, but I think my little bird heart would have actually stopped if I'd have gone up! What a smooth landing - like stepping off an escalater - but then not the jumping up and down with excitement that I expected... he simply looked stunned to the core. His eyes - my god, I couldn't work out what they said as I've never seen that expression before - the expression of a man shocked and exhillorated and having seen life from the other side. I knew then it had been beyond his expectation. Afterwards watched the video they took from the ground, to up in the plane and then jumping out and following them down (didn't show Simon jumping out - you had to pay for a skydiving cameraman to jump with you). This is when I freaked. I couldn't believe that he had just done that - you really got to see what it was like jumping out and the views of falling - you can the curve of the world - beyong amazing. I was nervous, giddly, excited and hyper (thank god I didn't see the video before he went up!) Can't believe we pulled up at this place and the next minute he's falling from a plane. Drove to the lake and pulled up for a cup of tea and to hear all about it (which was fantastic hearing him talking about it on an absolute high). We needed to chill big time so went to the thermal baths for a lovely soak in natural hot mineral water - skin smoothed, mind soothed. Absolutely shattered by night fall but still talking about the fall whilst eating our chip supper. Think Simon will always remember today!

Taupo, New Zealand 24th Sept

Awoke and took the opportunity of our lakeside setting to do a few stretches, exercises and fill my lungs with fresh air. I love waking up in a secluded place by a lovely lake. Were lazy and didn't get going till 9am after a large breakfast. Cambridge nothing special - not as "English" as expected (seen better) so went onto Waitomo Caves. These were enchanting limestone caves with icing sugar drip stalactites and mites, but the best bit was when we boarded a small boat and were pulled trough the pitch black caves. Ahh, pretty pretty pretty. Who brought the stars down for me? Just above our heads was a Milky Way of glow worms hung from the cave roof, twinkling just for us as we guided through in silence, our mouths as wide as our eyes at seeing our ow private heaven, a minature galexy full and bright (and when I die, take him, and cut him out in little stars, and he shall make the face of heaven so fine that all the world will be in love with night and pay no worship to the garish sun). Lunch by the picnic area and on through more Engishesque countryside, but still with those adorable sugar houses and flowery gardens. At Lake Taupo bought fresh green mussells the size of your hand and had a feast of them and white wine whilst overlooking the lake in an increadably posh part of a quiet town. Not bad for a couple of campervan travellers. *( how could I forget the highlight of the day??? Please don't read on if you have just eaten or are easily grossed... We found a dump station to empty the chemical toilet. Oh my god it was awful - Simon took on the task and is a bit queesey in that department to start with. Well there was all s**t (excuse my French) around the top of it & he had to aim it down this hole and he missed, and then it wouldn't come out and he had to shake it and it was all slopping around. Simon's face was green and he was very nearly puking. I meanwhile was having the best & most uncontrolable fit of laughter ever. Had to wash it down whilst trying not to get it on his trousers or sandled feet - clearly unamused and ready to faint - which made it funnier. (I know, I'm so cruel!) As it is my turn to empty it next time, the toilet is now out of bounds!

Rotorua, (and around) North Island, New Zealand Sun 23rd Sept

This morning was another calm start, watching ruffled black swans on the lake as we supped our first cuppa of the day.Rode in to Frotorua and decided what we wanted to do - seems so much to do around here. Went to Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua a Wahiao (eat your heart out Wales!!) - actually means 'The gathering together of the warparty of Wahiao. Had a charming guided tour around the 'Touristy' Maori Village and cultural centre. Learned all about history, saw men woodcarving, women making traditional costumes etc - was really interesting. Then onto a golf buggy train tour of the geysers and boiling mud within the grounds. Hhmmm! We had a bit of a laugh as it was indeed laughable and quite pathetic at the side of what we saw in Bolivia/Chile. Then the Kiwi House to get a rare glimps of this wierd elusive creature with long striding legs, bizarre shape, fluffy fur-like feathers and of course no wings. *(For the women = Every female that entered the Kiwi house stood rooted and gasped horrified at one particular display, - which the men just glanced at and casulaly walked on - and that was the display showing an egg inside the female Kiwi's body. Now I don't want to misquote (as I bloked the scarey number from my mind and can't remember it exactly) but the egg took up something like 65% of her body, and an X-ray of it looked like it was from a horror movie. No wonder they're nearly extinct!!
Ok boys, I'm off my side track! - Wandered around til lunch when everyone gathered at the lawned enterence of the Meeting House and a Maori woman in full dress came out to the crowd to explain a traditional welcoming ritual and that she would need a Cheif to act on behalf of the group. Simon's hand shot up , and so history was made as Cheif Simon welcomed them with 'nose kisses' and accepted the green fern of peace after the men had challenged him with the Haka. Into the meeting house and of course Cheif Simon and his wife (once he'd greeted every Maori on stage with a nose kiss) had pride of place right at the front to watch the show of dancing singing and Haka. It was a good show on the whole (I particularly liked the dances with stick throwing and twirling balls on the end of long strings) but, the dances weren't as sweetly enticing as in Samoa and the Haka was only ok. We have seen 5yr olds perform it for real out in the South Seas with such gusto and conviction it would put these guys to shame. But oh the singing. I'd forgotten just how much like angels it sounds like. It filled me up and I had to do my best not to burst out sobbing. It also sent my mind back to the South Seas and those special people singing of their special place and the lyrics "I must return to Samoa, return to paradise" - if only! The cheif and his wife left the fame behind and had a short drive to a park in the centre of town, where the usual sights of kids on swings, bushes and benches and a little kiddy steam train were intermingled with boiling mud and steam rising from the ground. Had a spagetti lunch and went to see about the chairlift ride up and taboggan ride down the town's hill. Looked a bit tame and didn't do anything for me so went to look into bungeeing, zorbing etc - which all looked anything but tame! Si wanted to do the Zorbing, and after seeing one in action (and the person coming out laughing) I swallowed my nerves and agreed. (for those who don't know; you can never get me on a bumper car ride or waltzer, let alone anything a little more adventurous). Got changed into shorts and vest and already shaking (I'm such a baby) - but I really wanted to do it. Got in truck with Zorb on the back which took us to the top of the steep hill. One at a time we had to take a run up and dive through the small round opening into the Zorb. Once inside the giant Human Hamster ball made from clear soft plastic (large outer with small inner chamber just big enough for two) they threw in 2 buckets of hot soapy water for a "twin cycle wash" then blasted us with a hose of freezing cold water (me screeming already). We stood up and had to start to walk forward - the ball instantly picking up speed down hill and Simon and became 2 crazed hampsters running to keep up - not for long, and we spent the roll down the hill being sloshed around head over heels like in a washing machine. I was screaming and laughing - I thought it was great fun - but I think it was a little tame for my hardened adrenaline ride adict husband. On a high we decided that there was nothing more we wanted to do in Rotorua and drove through countryside much more reminiscent of England (but glorious sunshine which turned to glorious sunset) to a place just outside of Cambridge. After a little toing and froing to find a good spot we pulled up by a lake and frolicing bunnies to settle down for the night with a few glasses of wine and good conversation.

Coromandel Peninsular, New Zealand 22nd Sept

Though in the layby of a quiet road we had the estury, fresh air, sharp amber morning light and birdsong to awaken us. By 9.30 we were in Thames strolling aroung it's Saturday market. What a weird and quirky little old town. Had a pioneer feel to it, with goldrush style shopfronts and contrasting 'Dolls' houses. The market was unlike any I have ever been to. Are we in the 50's? Locals laid out their homebaked cakes or organic grown pears like a village fete from strangeville with the soundtrack supplied by a couple of old dears playing ragtime on organ and saxaphone. It was perfectly odd. Happily we came away with homebaked lemon & blueberry cake, date and walnut scones and organic apples (which were so good that Simon went back for more and returned with a carrier bag full!). Bizarre street party behind we drove on and up the Coromandel Peninsular, which was just as nice as the more famous Bay of Islands, but more rugged and extreme, and even better coastal views of the islands. Difficult to remember the names of the places we stopped off at as we were just pulling up as and when we wanted to and the scenery begged for more time. It's great. A good beach was Cooks Beach (named after you know who!) where to feel the sand between my toes again was like coming home. An even better beach was Cathedral Cove. 35min walk through lovely rich forest to a secluded bay reached only in low tide, and a picturesque arch/cave on beach taking you through to more pillars of rock in the sea and tiny dotted islands further off. Weather was very nice and we had the place almost to ourselves. I couldn't help but dance and leap around the beach feeling great. Simon did his equivilant; stripped to his pants and went for a swim. It was freezing, but he looked gorgeous, and I think that was like coming home for him. Back in the van we ate our beans on toast with a great view and sighed a sigh of relief as a bus load of tourists were dropped off to stand and look at the view for 15min before being horded back on the bus again. Driving back down the Peninsular I sat in the back of the van drifting in and out of sleep, wanting to stay awake for the scenery and the gentle light, but constantly being lulled back to slumber. Just outside Rotorua we pulled in, had a fish and chip supper, a couple of beers and the best of company to end a great day.

Bay of Islands, Northlands, New Zealand 21st Sept

Well, there were no taps on the window last night (despite being parked right by a gorgeous little lake with tiny moored boats and great back drop), however, when we opened the curtains we became face to face with nosey neighbours that had come to check us out. I went out to talk to them and we had a lovely 6am breakfast with them in the fresh morning air. They made me laugh with their funny antics and they nearly ate me out of bread. We wanted to go for a walk so we said goodbye to them - we walked off down the street and they waddled off back to the lake quacking goodbye. We couldn't have chosen a better place to spend our first night. The town was such a sweetie! Tiny with a wide trickling stream, the oldest stone building and the oldest wooden building in NZ right by the stream. We walked to a Maori village - large authentic and very interesting. I love learning about different cultures and especially hearing the stories and legends that accompany them. Then we went on to Rainbow Falls - and like the name suggests, the wide deep falls were crowned with rainbows. What a morning. To say that I didn't want to come to NZ, I'm certainly having a good time! Drove up towards the Bay of Islands with the lovely and changing scenery at every turn. Relaxed.Stopped off at a couple of small towns which were 'just as sweet as they could be' ...(mmm, can see I'm going to be over using the word sweet!) There are flowers everywhere - bursting out at you. Boarded a small car ferry from Paihato to Russel and found Russel to be sooo much cuter- How? As we walked around this town felt as though I was in fairy land. Wanted to pinch the town's cheeks but ended up just saying 'ooooo' alot. Drove around the coast with stunning views of the island littered green sea. Everywhere has Moari names which are very confusing as they're all so similar. The people greet you with smiles - but why wouldn't you be smiling here? Drove the scenic route back south and decided to keep on going - through a magical Aukland at night with its lights from the skyscrapers dappling the harbour - till we at last fell into bed at Miranda.

Aukland, New Zealand 20th Sept

Today we picked up ur new home for the next 3 weeks (complete with toilet, shower, cooker and fridge) and felt excited to have the open road infront of us. What a suprise the countryside is already. It's changed so much in such a small distance. Yes there are bits that look similar to England - rolling pastures, grazing sheep and grand old 'Constable' trees, but, also pampas grass, reeds, yuckas, giant black stemed ferns and stout lush palm trees. It's like driving through an endless botanical garden, where all the contrasting species are displayed side by side. We've also seen narrow shallow strips of beach with moorland shrubs and hills behind. Not bad for our first day! The houses here are deliciously sweet. Small wooden, painted delicate lilacs and 'Love heart' colours, with wooden awnings and delicately carved latticework. They look like pretty ladies surrounded by flowers - or are they all just versions of the gingerbread house? We went to the Waipaua Kauri Forest which though dense and lush, was as silent as could be - spooky. Saw the famousTe Matua Ngahere (father of the forest) - with its 5m diameter trunk & probably 4000yrs old - it certainly was! Continued driving and stopped off at the coast a couple of times for little walks. Found the Kiwis lovely - so friendly and really kind and cheery. Pushed on and it was finally dark when we spotted a place to pull up for the night. Feel shattered and as we snuggle into bed can't help but feel like someone will be tapping on the window and asking us to move along.

Auckland, New Zealand Wed 19th September

(first of all an apology for how tediously boring and mundane the previous entry was – but it did actually feel good to be doing normal-type things.) – as it did today, working out plans and routes etc Booked the van ( an absolute luxury compared with what we’ve lived with over the last 9 months) and had a stroll (found a Camden

Buenos Aires, Argentina - Aukland, New Zealand 17th – 18th September

Boarded our 1.20am Monday morning plane with much reluctance. I really don’t want to leave South America. Was feeling absolutely shattered, but couldn’t sleep at all as there was too much buzzing around in my head: what an achievement our Washington DC to Buenos Aires travels were; the different countries and experiences; thinking how weird it will be to understand the small talk on a bus, or to be able to ask for anything and be completely understood, were all swimming in a big mush. Was quite a flight: probably as it was emotional too – sorting stuff out in my head before NZ, but also with the thought of trying to hold onto everything as long as possible. Crossed date and time lines. Think the flight was about 13 hours and finally landed in our new and English-speaking country at 5.20am Tues 18th. Bought Lonely Planet at the airport (and hoped it would be better for NZ than Cental & South Am) then took a bus to a backpackers hostel. Gracias keeps slipping out! Everything seems so green and lush – what a contrast to Patagonia. Tall modern spacious buildings and gleaming skyscrapers pack the city streets. The bus driver was so friendly and helpful – in fact, everyone has been so far. First thing we did was to go to a cafe and have the largest plate of toast, fried eggs, baked beans, chips and brown sauce we could find, swilled down with plenty of hot tea – god it tasted like heaven! Sat by the harbour in the middle of the city in order to allow our stomaches to digest, whilst we talked about our options. Tried to sleep for an hour then lovely shower and hair wash, and out feeling like a new person to get info on camper vans. Loaded with leaflets and price sheets we returned to the harbour to work it all and make our decision (seems very reasonable), unlike the shopping I had to load up on (toiletries etc) – ouch! After sitting and going through the whole of the NZ book to see where we wanted to go, and what route to take, we felt shattered – been a long day. Sat and ate marmite on toast in our backpacker that was situated in the midst of brothels and massage parlours and reflected on my first impressions of NZ – seems really nice, the people are very (and genuinely) friendly, loads of Chinese or Malasian here as well as loads of tourists (which was a shock to the system), the weather is very pleasant – not too hot or sunny – but this doesn’t stop every Kiwi being decked out in shorts and shades. Feel quite at a loss in this country, as we are now used to the unfamiliar – but we got mail (at the consulate) from England with kind words that made us feel good. Know that it’s yet again a case of having to adjust to our environment ( and not put toilet paper in the bin, but down the toilet ) and we’ll be ok.

Buenos Aires, Argentine Sun 16th Sept
Woke still dizzy with Tango tunes and the same excitement of last night. Breakfasted in San Telmo in an old cafe with original B/W tiles & fittings. All breakfasts here are coffee and 3 croisants. Went to the market in Plaza Dorrego. Wow what a great place - great architecture and atmosphere and the whole place lined with antique stalls selling weird and wonderful stuff. There was a buzz; people playing Tangos, dancing, painting, singing. We walked aroung the small square taking in stalls of old telephones & trumpets, jewelry & hats, toys and concealed sword canes. It was a feast for the eyes and the sunshine polished the vibrance of the place & the people. Then I came across a shop that is every girls dream; an Aladin's cave full of the most beautiful antique dresses, hats, gloves, bags, hats etc - all things pretty and gossimer, a big dressing-up chest of fairy clothes! I had half an hour browsing and when I came out with saucer eyes and flushed cheeks, Simon took $100 out of his pocket and said to go in and get something - (it would be an original, always remind me of Buenos Aires, and I deserved it!) What girl would refuse? (even though it took a gentle push - what about the last 6months of budgeting? etc). At last I came out with a 1920's dress (with a bit of hummimng and harring, should I really get it?); but it hit the spot and made me feel lovely; very understated but stylish. We left the market and typically striped suited men behind and sat in the main square '5th May' till the sun went down. Ate fist cooked traditionally (a large open fire with the meat opened out down the centre and stuck over the top of it), then walked around trying to come to terms with leaving South America. I feel so sad about it - don't want to go! - it's all been so fantastic and unbelievable and I've loved all the countries. It will mean no more Spanish (yipee), but also none of that culture / lifestyle, or the work that went into exploring such a strange, diverse and different land. It's the end of our American Adventure!... but I guess there is a whole new one waiting for us on the other side (or underside) of the world!.

Buenos Aires, Argentina 15th Sept

Woke up to the noise of traffic - something that hasn't happened for a while! On the balcony I looked out across San Telmo, with it's rundown charm, large old buildings with iron balconies and a buzz in the air. Think I can say that we got a pretty good idea of BA, seeing as we spent about 7 hours walking around all the areas. Some parts are like London - grand old government buildings - but more is like a (Latin) Paris - (spirit & vibrancy). Large squares with 'toy' soldiers in top hats marching by, old ladies in real fur coats in a last chance bid at glamour, modern highrises spilling with plants, dogs in t-shirts, broadway lined with theatres and neon signs, parks with street artists & stall holders - I love this place.It shouldn't be called Buenos Aires though, but Muchas Aires as it's so windy. Went to the cemetry and saw Evita's grave (very understated at the side of all the others). This place is a mini city within the city - ornate and totally over the top mausoleums like palaces dressed with oversized weeping statues or guarding angels, each one orriginal in design & granduer. I wondered if their lives had been spent trying to outdo everyone else - coz that's certainly what they were trying to do in death. How sad .. look at my grave, see how important I must have been when I was alive! Give me a quiet plot under a tree anytime. Got back to hotel and collapsed with exhaustion. Feel a bit disapointed as I really wanted to find somewhere to see tango - but a tourist trap or cheesey show - I only wanted the real thing. I fell asleep for 20 min and when I awoke Simon had weaved his magic and found a place just around the corner! Went for a drink in a real old bar, where the landlady/lord must have been there since 1940, and nothing had changed. We got a bottle of red wine for $3 ( that's the same as a cup of tea down here), and soaked up the spit and sawdust charm. Now to 'Bar Sur'. Wow.It was perfect. Small place, only about 13 tiny tables and decorated exactly as you'd imagine (like a dim lit Chanson bar), it was stuck in the faded glamour of a fogotten past - moody, intimate. A tiny perfomance space in a clearing infront of us, a piano and the most humble and top notch waiter in DJ discreetly passing amongst the handful of clientel, who all looked like artists. The performers were wonderful characters seeped in nostalgia; Pianist 90 with sleek dyed hair, imaculate DJ, (and was that eyeliner?) looking like the poised Laurence Olivier. Singer 50ish well worn face, dressed in black and fur and jewels like an old movie star, was Argentina's Edith Piaf and sang with the immense aching that only a lifetime of broken hearts and suffering can bring, striving for one last chance that is totally romantic in it's hopelessness. Singer/guitarist with classic Argentinian hat and flower behind his ear and a mournful expression. Double act Sqeezebox and Piano (again both gentlemen of experience & years), moving, emotional and seeping with atmosphere. I was in my element (as you probably can tell). Felt like a private show. Simon ordered Champagne - couldn't have been anything else, not in this setting. Then, on came the dancers. (Wasn't sure if I'd beable to cope as I was already bursting with enjoyment). Did every woman in the audience fall in love (or lust) with the the young boy who must have been all of 18, with dashing good looks and features cut as sharp as his suit? The dancing was unbelievable, they filled the room with sexual danger and menace - the boy's passion almost abusive, but oh so compelling. They were on fire as they danced imtimately. It was like an intricate sword fight (fencing) by two equal partners - who would submit first? - Who would have ultimate power? I was enthralled. I never realised how complexed a dance it was (suppose you only really see corney versions). Being so close you could breathe them in in all their rawness. Wonderful. More acts, each one rotating in a never ending loop, but never repeating. Another bottle of Champagne and on the 2nd Tango set the boy got me up to dance.Was swept across the floor by the brooding smouldering young boy (sorry Simon) and when I told him that I used to be a dancer (but never Tango) it was a green light to him, and he span and whipped me around and plunged me into backbends. Ah! As the night wore on the dance sets got more and more extreme and powerful - impossible intricate footwork and daring lifts and spins which produced a sharp intake of breath from the audience. At last tore ourselves away 1.30ish, more drunk oon the vibrant passion soul of the place than the Champagne ( I'm sure Simon will write otherwise though). This was better than I ever could have imagined, and the best possible way to say goodbye to South America!

Buenos Aires, Argentina Fri 14th Sept

As we came in to the outskirts of Buenos Aires it was exactly like driving into London - and for a moment I thought I'd come full circle. After over 20 hours of travelling I was glad to get on the underground and get to a hotel and shower. Hotel was like in La Paz - very large faded grand building, with tall ceilings, marble staircases, mosaic courtyards and shutters opening out onto ornate balconies - but- rundown and empty now, except for the old bloke at reception night and day. Had a long walk around and got to see quite a bit of the City, which reminded me alot of London in parts (large old government buildings). I prefer the area where we are staying (San Telmo) with it's old crumbly thick buildings with real character, balconies, shutters, faded colours and the charm that decadent decay brings. It has stories behind it - each place has a tale to tell. I faded fast so ate, then sat in the main square eating naughty pastries & taking in the grand buildings and palm trees , toy soldiers in top hats marching by to lower the flag, dogs dressed in doggy tshirts and jumpers and the relaxed people toing and froing. Had a beer in a local bar and retired to our balconie that reminded me of the balconie on our first night in Mexico - gosh, we've com a long long way together...

To Buenos Aires, Argentina 13th Sept

Much colder today with lots of wind (we were lucky it wasn't yesterday!) Had an easy morning: postcards, pick up email and then pizza before getting the station for the 3pm bus (which didn't actually come till 4pm).
[Must take this opportunity to say that on Tues we heard the terrible news of what happened in the United States. At the station we saw footage and it seemed even more unreal - like a film. Can't believe how terrible it all is ( and the disasterous knock on effects it will have) I hope that none of you have lost anyone to what happened, and that the western world will handle this sensibley yet effectively].
Left Puerto Madryn and it's Welsh tea houses behind. The bus journey was the same Patagonian scenery as before, with only a superb burning sunset to lift my heart from the sadness that the trip is nearly over, and, sight of the road (straight, endless, stretching out forever to the horizon) that was giving me a secret message that indeed the road never ends, and that it is you who gets off of it - and - can get back on whenever you want. I have to remember that it is only the end of our American Adventure and that we have a whole new one waiting for us in the South Seas.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina 12th Sept

Ahhh, nice to sleep in a bed! Mini bus picked us up at 8am along with 3 Swiss girls. Our guide looked like a hardline criminal, but was a big softy: nice, helpful and chatty. First stop was a museum, which was v interseting - the best thing being the Whale skeleton (crazy alien shape- especially the head). At Pirimades we had to wait for the next boat (45min) so strolled down the beach (lovely weather again) and was amazed that we could see Whales out in the distance - couldn't wait to get out in the boat now. Small boat with only 8 people in (glad we are out of season and away from the crowds) I stood out on the very bow of the boat and within 5 min we saw our first whale. It was on it's back with it's flippers stuck up in the air sunni

Travelling to Puerto Madryn, Argentina 10th & 11th Sept

Up at 5 to find it had continued snowing all night and settled about half a foot deep. The bus company sent a courtesy cab to pick us up and take us the 3 blocks to the bus- which we were very grateful for as it was slippy and blowing a gale of thick large flakes of snow. Strange thing for a bus company to do, but I suppose it was a good way to get the bus off on time! The bus had a mesh grill on the front which was covered in snow; I've no idea how the driver saw anything, and going over the mountain pass was scarey stuff. It was so deep, you had no visability and could feel the bus skidding. If it was in England they'd have closed it off. The snow scenery continued for 2 hours - now the twisted tortured trees look at home. At last snow gives way to sunshine and endless yellow plains, like someone slipped a coloured filter infront of my eyes. At the ferry crossing at Bahia Azul to get out of Tierra Del Fuego the wind was blowing so hard, we had to wait - and wait - and wait. 4.5 hours later we get the go ahead, but this is worse that the Golfo de Penas and Simon did his best to distract me, but I could see the fear in his eyes. Waves crashed over the side of the ferry, over the top of the cars and broke on the bus window. We were glad to get off in one piece and felt sorry for the 40 or so lorries qued in a long jam waiting to cross. Arrived in Rio Gallegos at 9pm (14.5hours later) and caught the 9.30 bus to Puerto Madryn (around 18 hours). At least it was a luxery bus with reclining seats, and we had a good view from out the upstairs front window of the Patagonian land that stretched on and on forever unchanging. There were no villages - nothing only stunning skies and clouds. At last in Puerto Madryn felt instantly relaxed by this sweet seaside town. Got in at 5pm, got a room and then had a walk on the seafront with all the towns people taking a stroll, jogging, doing Judo on the beach and generally chilling out. Love;ly. Got back, collapsed on the bed and fell asleep.

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 9th Sept

Long and short of running around trying to sort out travel today is that everywhere is closed as it's Sunday, so can't buy a plane ticket (same price as bus but 1 hour not 14! ) so will have to get first bus. Now that that boring stuff is out of the way I can tell you about this most southernly of towns. It really feels like it's at the end of the world - you could get trapped down here - or maybe it's like the Bermuda Triangle and once you cross over that snowy mountain pass, you can never go back. The town is sweet and not unlike others down here, but is cut off by the Beagle Channel at the bottom of it and the mountains at the top of it and all day long it snowed! We won't be having a white Christmas in Oz; so we had it early. Feels like the Antarctic is just over the way, and despite the fast blowing snow - or because of it - I feel exhilerated. Glad we came here even though it's a long way to come for only a day. Gosh, Tierra Del Fuego - land of Fire AND snow!

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 8th Sept

Got rid of the rest of the group this morning at 7 as we set off for Ushuaia - the most southerly town in the WORLD! So wanted to go to Tierra Del Fuego - I remember seeing it on a map years ago, and thinking how mad it would be to go there. Never thought I would though! Mind you it was a long journey (14ish hours) from Punta Arenas through Argentinian Patagonia, which is even more barren - though it does have an amazing sky/clouds. (decided I'm using the word 'amazing' far too much - apologies!) French girl on bus (who could talk for France) gave us good info on NZ and Oz, and we gave her info on the rest of South America. Stopped at a couple of places - nothing in the middle of nothing. I'm so excited by it though. Do you think I'm weird? Closer to Ushuaia we have to go over the mountains that are deep in snow; it piled high at the side of the road, which is itself very icey. Can only see a bit of the town in the dark - larger than I expected, but has a strange feel - can't wait till morning!

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile 7th Sept

Wonderful and much needed sleep and breakfasted at 9ish. Found out next bus to Punta Arenas isn't till 1pm - day went downhill from there really! Did lots of running around, postcards bought, written and posted, phoned Vernan - happy 80th birthday! Also tried to get info for rest of travel but so much conflicting information it was impossible. Sadly 4 of our boat friends are still travelling in our direction (had enough now - and the Irish don't speak a word of Spanish, which to my shame (or is it) I find embarrassing - plus, they have even less of a clue about arrangements and just making a confusing situation worse). Nice ride south through similar landscape, which I found calming. In Punta Arenas it was the same - stress stress stress. We have so many plans and alternatives plans and not an ounce of solid info - ggrrr. Got some packet food (instant pasta) to take into Argentina as it's so expensive. Simon went off to book - oh, I'm not going into it, too complicated and would take far too long - hey there are better things you could be doing with your time! Went to bed tired and wound up - we've just got to take things by chance.

Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina 6th Sept

Bus picked us up at 7am and another lovely day. (Man at hotel said he couldn't believe our luck - best 2 days weather all year!) Great countryside going up Chile and into Argentina near Torres Del Paine, where it then changed to the bleak ongoing Patagonian land that was unchanged for hours (except the odd group of twisted trees - some of which wore soft beards of light green moss - and the odd wandering herd of sheep). The starkness was lovely though - there is so much space. Saw the first sight of the glacier and got out of the car for a better look. I stood there thinking "I can't imagine it" - then realised that I didn't have to as it was right infront of me - but didn't seem real and just couldn't take it in. Arrived close up at Moreno Glacier at 1.45 and were luck enough to have it practically to ourselves. Si and I ran off (the group is nice nice enough, but talking mindless rubbish to no-clue idiots that just don't 'get it' doesn't appeal to me) and enjoyed over 2 hours wandering around on our own. There are walkways on various levels that take you to either side, down on a level so that you are looking up to it (55metres tall) or higher up so that you can see over the whole thing (14km long). This close it was even more surreal - too much to take in. The sheer scale of it coming down from between the mountains, an endless field of shafts of sharp jagged towers of ice. Amazing. It illuminates blue and the more you look the more details you see, like your brain in letting you take it in slowly, otherwise it would overload. The shapes are beautiful. Saw 2 giant towers fall off with a thunderous crash that echoed forever, and made a huge slow motion wave as they hit the water - but never came back up. Could hear lots of other cracking and calving - but it's too huge to see unless they happen right at the front. Can't believe this has been here since the Ice Age! It captivated and enchanted me. The drive back we were delayed as 3 of group wanted to try and sort out air tickets at an agency in Calafate and were ages! Then immigration decided to play up and keep us a while, which meant that we didn't get in until 10.30pm (wooried we'd miss the Chilean border this side, but still open when we arrived). Felt so sorry for the driver as it was pitch black, and the bumpiest dirt road that threw us all over. Went to bed exhausted by the past 2 days (and the boat trip too) and think about all I have seen and experience. Feel like I've run with the wild and flown with the free. Held the silence of the world in a single breath. I've walked with nature, hand in hand with her cruelty and kindness, and always overshadowed by her magnificence. I have beheld her secret miracles with a soul of wonder. And, I have seen through the eyes of god.

Torres Del Paine, Patagonia, Chile 5th Sept

Off at 7.30 in glorious blue skies and sunshine through Patagonia (which seemed to me like the Altiplano) - endless golden tufted grasses, strange greens and burnt browns & small lakes mirroring mountains. Trees were weird though, like a cartoon evil forest, all twisted and tortured and bare except for the odd 'pompoms' of spikey mustard greeen growth. Beauty in barreness. Saw the famous 'Towers of Pain' and know why they are named so - ouch!. The surrounding mountains and the 'Horns' were all covered in deep snow, but not the bare granite towers. Went to a lake infront of it, bright green with white mineral deposits around the edge. Another river further round was stunning as the bed was made from a slate-like rock that had eroded in steps creating a gentle terraced waterfall, with mangled trees on the near bank and Torres Del Paine on the other. Through the countryside we saw herds of wild Guanacos (llama / Vicuña family) Giant eagles, Ñundu (which are Emu/Ostriches, and look so bizarre down here), bushy foxes after over-wooly sheep and Condors. Condors are magnificent, especially when flying close to you as their sheer size it so impressive ( 10 foot wingspan). Everything you see is a sight to savour. I love the intensity of the colours and the light. Next another waterfall, but steep and fast flowing, where rainbows arched over it picture perfect. Simon and I climbed all around. Upstream through prickly brush we found where the ice melt from the mountain made the rapid river that ran into the waterfall. Everything from the sky to the mountains to the snow and the river shone etheral blue. We tasted the water - pure and fresh. Then on to the Glacier Grey (or as near as we could get without a 2 day hike. Walked through a forest of bare broken trees (not suprised as winds in Summer can reach 150km per hour, to the black sand of the lake bed, and off into the distance framed by an amazing sight! Snow mountains with the glacier inbetween like a wall of water frozen in mid-gush, which then broke up into floating ice bergs of all sizes and the most amazingly creative shapes, and spilled towards us and lake's shore whilst gleaming bright blue. Simon and I had a picnic by the water's edge and were dazzled by the sun on the water shining a widening stream of silver tinsle to us. As we walked around the lake the colours changed; deepening or brightening - and there was calving, and large pieces of ice fell off larger icebergs and crashed in to the lake. We walked up and along the cliff at the side of the lake (which was lush alpine forest) and sat at the end looking down onto it all. It was so peaceful. Spectacular drive back (couple more stops) - was shattered, but the sun warmed the hills, grasses and snow with the Midas Touch before turning the sky pink, and lifted me. Back in Puerto Natales 12 hours later, exhausted but full of life and sights. Never thought it would be so amazing. Really really enjoyed it. I'm blown away. Back at the hotel ate pasta and had a beer, but already feel full on today. Been unbeleiveable really.

Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile, 4th Sept

Anouncement at 6.45am to get up and see the 'Muy Lindo' scenery. I managed to get my drunken head off the pillow, but there was no rousing Simon. Wow ... the best yet. How can I tell you- mountains closer and bigger and the fjiords even narrower (sounds just the same eh?), but, what a sunrise! It was more like sunset, with the whole sky burning intense firey reds and blacks. I didn't care about my hangover, just stood open mouthed. We sailed this way for about an hour with the sky brightening to amber, then gold and being led through the channels by 2 dolphins. I always thought that paradise was hot, and could never imagine the beauty of it down here. Felt close to my hero, Earnest Shackleton (the Antarctic explorer from the early 1900's - an amazing man of courage and leadership) on this boat trip and feel for the first time 'Why'. It's amazing. As we pulled into Puerto Natales 9.30ish (Si finally up - but still drunk I think!) was shocked at how it looked. Deadly mountains enclosing it on 3 sides, the port on the fourth and just infront a piece of barren flat land where the dinky sized toy town sat. It was so isolated - reminded me of Uyuni in Bolivia. 10 of us all went to the same hotel (after price negotiations by yours truely) and started trying to sort out what trips were on offer. To cut a long story short (and a very frustrating one) we went to several places back and forth negotiating prices, and sorting out who wanted to do what, which drove me mad and took up most of the day. Eventually got everything sorted (though I think the man in our hotel who also runs the tour agency now weeps when he sees me coming). So tired, but checked email - lots of lovely birthday greetings - thanks everyone, cooked pasta, went for a walk with Si along the bay to see the pink sunset and then rang mum and dad to say that I was still alive after the boat trip (but forgot it was late, so woke them up -oops sorry). Fell into bed looking forward to enjoying the next 2 days' trips and hopefully all my hard work paying off.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 3 - Mon 3rd Sept

Up early to a kiss, a happy birthday wish and to see sunrise as we came into a bay especially to look at the scenry. It was a good start to a good day. We were surrounded by enormous bleak icy mountains (so much bigger than before and now covered almost entirely in snow). Felt I was in the kingdom of the Snow Queen as first beems of light tried to break through the snow clouds. Was I still asleep and dreaming? No I know I'm awake as it's so cold! I thought the other scenry was amazing, but now it's a hundred times better, and so close. Rugged knarled impenatrable forests, small islands and domeneering black and white mountains. (at lunch Simon had arranged for me to have a special meal of salmon and also had pineapple plonk - but it was a bit rough). We are now passing through narrow fjiords with lanes winding off to both sides and I am on a high. There are dozens of rainbows; some to our left and some to our right, and some we sail through - it's magical. Later there was an even better birthday present - a visit from 3 dolphins! Yipee! Then in the water came small icebergs floating past - hundreds - from 4 foot to about 50, all shining turquoise-white. The amazing 'Oo look, ahh look' sights continued and it's awful as I don't have any better words to describe it! It's quite exhausting taking it all in though and I'm full on it. Weather was lovely and clear and not so cold, so could spend the whole day above deck enjoying it. I was rather a happy bunny (you don't get many birthdays like this).For the evening meal I put on my glitter tiara (from Simon - knows me so well!) and went down to join the other passengers. I was the party queen of the ship as I sipped wine, enjoyed my dinner and opened my present. Everyone was in a good mood and hung around chatting. We were told to clear the table and were moved to near the bar where there was mood lighting (so nieve) where the captain had come to say hello (didn't realise) and the staff and the passengers started to sing 'Happy Birthday', then cake was brought out ( made especially by cook today - what else but an Arctic Roll!!) swiftly followed by 4 bottles of Pisco and we all got very drunk on Pisco Sours. It was a fantastic evening (Simon had pùt so much planning into it - and it certainly paid off) and everyone had a brilliant time. Last night on board and a great end to a truly amazing trip. What a birthday! Yep, I rather like being 31!

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 2 - 2nd Sept

Simon and I got up early to watch the sunrise at 6.30am. It was freezing on deck and blowing a gale, but it was fantastic. Was stunned by the hugeness of the mountains, and they were so close, starting at the waters edge. Rugged and snow capped they were gently amazing when softened by the colours of the morning. Violet, mauve then pink - but oh so subtle. Spent the morning outside watching layers of green craggy mountains in varying degrees of snow cover. Had a game of giant draughs painted out on the floor of top deck against biting winds, saw a couple of curious seals, had lunch and then back outside to make the most of it all. Now going through a narrower passage and heading out to the open sea. All of a sudden I saw movement in the distance and called out to everyone. We all rushed over to Starboard to see the movement coming towards us ... it was a herd of dolphins!! They came right up to the ship and we all hung over as they leaped out of the water in athletic arcs and swam along with us. They were so fast and powerful and graceful. Felt like I could touch them they were so close. It was so exhillerating and heard myself yelping. Then they continued in the direction we'd come from. Seemed they were just as excited by the encounter as we were because when they were further from the bough they were still leaping, and one of them was jumping high in the air straight up and doing a sideways bellyflop crashing back down into the sea (like what whales do). What a supprise, and real rush. (too bad camera inside, aswell as Simon who only saw them in the distance). What a birthday treat! Continued through the beautiful scenery and after lunch we started to sway quite alot ... but this wasn't the Golfo yet! Half of the people were sick by dinner. I'd taken tablets and was handling it well. Only had a couple of bites of food though to be on the safe side. Weather conditions got increasingly worse and concentrated on the video to take my mind off of it. (Speed 2 - the one set on a boat - someone has a pretty nasty sence of humour!) Couldn't look out of the windows (which was a shame as there was a large full moon shinning like a new sovereign lighting up the snow and sky) as you saw only all sea or all sky. Really rolling around and hard to stand, but not the nightmare I'd expected. Captain said we were lucky as it was a very calm crossing and was usually going high the same but crashing down harder, and really threw you in all directions. It was bad enough thank you. (one girl was happy as she'd been sick only once and when her friend did the crossing 2 years ago she was sick 32 times!) In bed was tucked in tight and felt I was on a rollercoaster - should be over by 3am though, and tommorrow is my birthday.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 1 - 1st Sept

Herd curnching like the lifting of anchour at about 3am and felt happy to at last be on our way. When we got up Simon went to look outside and returned saying it was lovely. I rushed out all excited, only to find that we were still sat in the harbour in Puerto Montt! Breakfast everyone came down puzzled and just laughed, then shortly after 9am we finally got underway. Phew! On deck we watched P Montt fade away into the distance with almost a sence of achievement - and certainly relief - as we sailed away through a rainbow, which I took to be a good omen at last. Spent most of the day out on deck checking out the view ; quite a wide channel with the rainy island of Chiloe on one side and volcanoes on the other. Returned inside only to warm up or when the rain blew too hard. They put on a video for us ... Titanic! Ha ha very funny - lets hope I still find it amusing going through the Golfo! Watched the long sunset up on deck. It was beautiful. Ice pinks and chilled blues spreading over the whole sky and shining off the mountains - so unusual. Tucked up in our warm cabin we were quietly, content and glad we'd decided on the trip. Wonder what tomorrow will bring?

Puerto Montt, Chile 31st Aug

Exciting day! Got to the dock at 11.30 and looking forward to our 2pm sail, only to be told that the boat had been delayed to 9pm (check in 6pm) What a let down. We had the whole day to kill and the nice blue skies didn't last long. Soon we were drenched as our coats need re-proofing and decided to buy cheapo rain ponchos. Time went too slow ('watched kettle' and all that.) Nice lunch at restuarant overlooking port and seals - be nice to be back to plain (and much less) food. Back at the boat there were only 15 people for the trip! (I had guessed 30, Simon 60). We boarded the huge ship (looked sturdy enough for bad travel) via a cargo lift up past the lorries etc and then walked up to the top deck and lounge. Lovely & warm inside (didn't expect) and we were assisgned cabins. We'd paid to share but got a cabin to ourselves and upgraded to private bathroom - so good start. Explored the ship and were all excited again. It looked so pretty out on deck with the shore lights spilling out into the harbour. Had dinner (3 course and plenty) and got chatting to the other passengers (all different nationalities). We were then told that we wouldn't be leaving until 12 midnight ( bad weather conditions further south - starting to worry). Stayed in the diningroom chatting to an Irish couple and at midnight we still hadn't left. The whole ship seems deserted except for the 4 of us and all I can think of is the Mari Celest! Now told that we'll be leaving at 3am, so said goodbye to the twinkling Puerto Montt and went to bed not knowing what on earth we were doing here - or what would happen to us!

Puerto Montt, Chile 25th - 30th Aug

Rained and blew all night long, and it wasn't until we left the island that we left the weather behind too. This time in Puerto Montt Simon knew exactly where to go for lodging, and we are really living in style in our very own appartment. It's great, but so weird to be in a place that has all that a small flat would, and, is all to ourselves. Hospedajies are great as they allow you to use the kitchen, but they can be a pretty strange experience. Some are more hotel-like, but others are just a couple of rooms extra in a person's house and you find yourself rummaging through their cupboards and belongings trying to find a knife, whilst the husband is stood ironing, or sat trying to watch tv with the family on the couch next to you, or going about their normal lives, making phone calls, having friends around etc. It's all a little too personal, or at best feels like a flat share with complete strangers for one night. Therefore we are making the most of our little flat till the boat comes on Friday. Most of our time here has been spent walking around the shops and markets (they have many stalls selling a variety of horific looking seaweeds and shellfish which are strung out onto long strings and hung up to dry out), or going down to the bay to watch the boats, or further around the prettier side to watch the pelicans and the seals. We have also spent much time cooking (you can get a two and a half foot fresh salmon for about 2pound 50p and they gut, clean and fillet it for free) so we have indulged ourselves, and are back to having a normal bit of weight on us at last (and I have once again become used to butter and milk after a diet void of both for many months -and at first found both of them far too rich for my system when I did start eating them again). It has rained every day, though we have had a couple of nice afternoons too, and we go for a walk despite what the weather is doing anyway. And of course we have had television (plenty of 'Friends' and evening films) but even that has become old hat now, and doesn't hold my interest much. Enjoyed the time here, it's given us a bit of a breather, but tommorrow we go on our seafaring adventure and though I am very nervous about the rough part of the crossing, I am looking forward to the rest of it, and, on the last day on board I will have my birthday - so that should be one to remember! 29 Western Samoa,South Pasific Island, 30 London, England, 31 Puerto Natales, Chilean Antarctic.

Castro, Chiloe, Chile 24th Aug

Woke to the same sound as when I drifted off; the rain against the window pane. Breakfasted alone as we are the only people staying here (no suprise there).Caughth bus further south to Castro , the capital of the island. The countryside was beautiful in it's harshness, like the wild moors of northern England or how I'd imagine the Shetland Islands, but more rich, fertile and fecund despite (or more likely because of) it's endless opressive rain. Wooden houses in the middle of the countryside stand alone except for the old fashioned metal milk churns that wait by the gate. A place left in time, forgotten by people - but who could blame them? Was hard to find somewhere open, but eventually got a corner room, all in pink, with a good view out to the lake (or so I'm told - the weather being so grim that you can't see that much). Went for a walk around the bay and had a look at the Palofitos (wooden houses that look regular from the road, but the backs are built out on large stilts over the sea). They're painted lively candy colours - like ones in Belize, but looked lost, and I felt they should be in a happy sunshinny place, and not here, where an arc would be more appropriate. As we made our way through the rain and the gale, old women stared out madly from doorways or piles of soaked firewood, curtains twitched and packs of dogs more akin to shaggy great wolves prowled the streets. This is a strange place - like you can visit, but might never return. Found a restuarant and ate a great fish dinner and had to go back eventually as our soaked clothes were now turning just a little too cold in the wind. The room is cold but dry and it roars and pours outside. I try to read but my mind keeps wandering off to Dorothy as I feel that the house will surely be blown to Oz. How can people live here? This island is famous for it's none-stop rain. OK, you may ask why we came here - maybe it's something to do with variety and spices, or maybe it's simply because I have a wanderlust for the world in all its marvelous compulsive contrasts.

Ancud, Chiloe, Chile 23rd Aug

Naughty naughty I had peaches and cream for breakfast! Caught 10.45am bus to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. We passed through misty moorlike terrain with deep rusty grasses. Very atmospheric. The ferry crossing was a little rough, and made me wonder if I am actually insane to agree to this long southern boat trip. Got a nice hotel and headed out to explore in the rain. Found a restaurant overlooking the harbour, which looked like the little fishing village of Howth near Dublin ( or infact any other little fishing village with small hardy boats, wooden shack houses that have seen the harshest of weather, and low lying clouds/mist/rain. They all look the same - forgotten by people and time.) Upstairs we had a wonderful view. It was posh and empty - there just aren't any tourists of any kind - but the restaurant was all laid out and ready waiting, like a bus load would come through it's doors at any moment. As we ate our soup we watched about 6 seals playing in the bay. In perfect sync to the soothing lyrical music playing in the restaurant ( or was it a siren? - or the call of the sea? ). Tails flip, flippers turn and wave and they frolic and somersault out of the water. It seemed so normal, yet so beautiful it suddenly made me feel very sad for all the seals I'd seen (looking happy enough at the time) in zoos or sealife centres. This was real and powerful and mesmerising - but ordinary (like watching dogs chase sticks - or their tails). They were happy and were free. You couldn't help but feel lifted and touched. Later we went around the tiny local museumn, and the old turrets outside, then returned to our room to dry off. We had an evening in with the tv and a bottle of wine, feeling cosy as we listened to the relentless rain beat out time on our window.

Puerto Montt, Chile 22nd Aug

Only remembered this morning that we called into a Tex Mex restaurant for a coffee ( which when Simon ordered turned into "Una pitcher de beer por favor" - mmmmm!?) Bit of a haze, but I do remember that we had our bit of revenge on the old bat in the hospedaje as we had to wake her up to let us in! The following morning over breakfast she was a little kinder, despite going on that we must have drunk Pisco (as she said she could smell it) We weren't that bad! Half an hour later we were in Puerto Montt and instantly liked it. Throughout this region the houses are wooden and most are covered in wooden tiles shaped like armadillo scales. They make the houses look like large feathery brown owls sitting along the pavements. So cute. There is also alot of German architecture - especially the churches. We are staying in a large (& friendly this time) hospedaje and can cook for ourselves in the kitchen. Took a nice walk along the harbour and made enquiries about the boat down to Puerto Natales (by Torres del Paine) in the southern tip of Chile as close to the Antarctic as you can get. We decided to do it. It's a big freight ship and it takes 3 nights 4 days going through the Fjords. It should be a real adventure, though I'm really frightened. I'm not too hot on boats to start with, but this one has a notoriously bad part of the journey when it goes out into the Golfo. They say that it rocks so violently that you shouldn't eat or drink before hand and that it's better if you go to bed (coz the stewards make them so tight that there isn't much chance of falling out) and to take seasickness pills. You will think the boat will go down - but that's just how it is! This isn't going to be nice!

Puerto Varas, Chile Tuesday 21st August

Up early to get bus to Valdavia to spend our second anniversary somewhere new. However, when the bus pulled in, we didn't like the look of the place too much so stayed on to Frutilla. We were expecting a beautiful lake town, but when we got off the bus and explored the one street town, it was more or less closed and we couldn't even see the lake due to heavy hanging cloud/fog. It was cold and miserable and not a place for celebration, so we got a bus to Puerto Montt, past Nordic forests and English fields, but the bus terminated at Puerto Varas. It looked ok, and we'd spent most of the day travelling so we opted to stay. Si found a hospedaje - small house & room & a real Hitler of an owner who grilled us about giving her a photocopy of the passports to copy our detail from. We both bit our tongues and breathed deeply. Wash and changed,& I put on lipstick and mascara and couldn't do a thing with my hair and ended up putting it up - which usually is ok, but when I'd finished I felt like a 5yr old American beauty pagent victim - totally unused to being 'Glam' and totally OTT for this sleepy foggy town. Had a malt ber till it was a reasonable time to eat and went to a restaurant called Gorditos (and we certainly were!) It was located in the doorway of the fish market, but it was more like the doorway to the past. Two soliders sat sat in their smart green unifroms, with their hats cast onto the backs of nearby chairs, the waiter was in black jacket and dickie bow, and the small restuarant looked like what you'd find in France in the fourties. It was like I was seeing in black and white. My hair etc now fitted in perfectly in our little time capsule. Felt typsy after the pisco sour cocktail we had (but went onto a bottle of white wine and half a red! - oops) The meal was fantastic. Huge fresh fish soaked in butter, garlic etc and topped with fresh juicey prawns - oh double yum! We had such a lovely evening, and Simon gave me a postcard of where we are today with a poiniant and beautiful quote on the back (sorry, but some things aren't meant to be shared) and a present. It was the rock that I got Simon to break off one of the boulders in Tupiza ; that is translucent white on the inside and the colours of the valley on the outside. Might sound pretty rubbish to you, but really meant alot to me - something I can't really explain (or rather, aren't going to get into). Felt only a little bad that I hadn't got Simon anything; in London I used to get Simon a card for every tiny occasion (I guess I had to try and put my dreams and hopes and love onto paper to make them more real), but out here, now, we are living the dream, and every day I can see how much Simon loves me, and he sees how much I love him. Words alone no longer are important, and actions are what speak loudest of all.

Pucon, Chile 20th August
More of the same today. Swapped two more books (reading about a book a week) and spent the morning by the lake. Then we seperated for an hour - I wanted to find another thin but warm layer top and a lipliner (for use on anniversary and birthday) and can do that sort of shopping better on my own. Was v pleased with bargin shopping I got & also tried to get a little something for Si for our anniversary - but couldn't find anything he would like! Had lots of good chats (was getting a bit down about my Spanish since being in Chile as can't understand them, and feel my speaking skills likewise going down the pan) but today conversation flowed freely and naturally on both sides and I really enjoyed it. Got increasingly hot and by the time I got back to Simon I was stripped down to a tee-shirt and making the most of the weather. That hour is the longest we've been apart for months, and felt good to be back together again (god, we're going to be such social misfits by the end of this trip... if we weren't already!). Spicy bean and potatoe stew re-hash of the pasta sauce and out again to make most of weather, and sat in our usual place by the lake in only a vest! Beautiful romantic sunset and walked back home past the many birds of prey that live here - to... more food of course!

Pucon, Chile Sunday 19th Aug

3 bad dreams last night, but nice blue sky through heavy white clouds outside and altogether much sunnier day. Breakfast of....soup and out to explore. Sat by lake (I can see that this is going to get repetitive) and watched children playing by upturned row boats on the black sand beach and a toddler wander into the sea before realising what he'd done and let out a loud suprised cry. Gulls divebombed us with short skreechy calls and we had to sheild the sun from our eyes. The scenery is in 3 layers; first being all shades of green pines and firs and dotted cabins and lodges, the second being steep nearby mountains covered in dark trees, which in turn are covered in a light dusting of snow as if sprinkled by caster sugar, and the third being the snow covered volcano like a chain smoker constantly puffing out smoke rings to impress. Back at the hotel we started cooking the next meal.... huge pasta sauce, and went back out to check email. Everything finally working, so transfered the blog I wrote in Santiago on disk, onto the net. Phew. Back to hotel and worked through the next step of trip (and variations to plan if weather is against us.. it's off season here as it's still the end of the winter) eat the pasta meal .... mmmm, will be so fat by the time we leave here ( or well stocked up for the bad weather). Now updating this and will go back (after another stroll around) and eat more pasta and drink some wine. Glad to be relaxed and happy again. It's great here.

Pucon, Chile 18th Aug

Lovely sleep. Up, packed and on bus by 11.15am and in new hotel room in Pucon at 1pm. Hotel is in family house (no, nothing like the nut house in La Serena) and we have double bed, private bathroom (still can't get used to hot water coming from the basin tap) and use of kitchen!!!! Getting so spoiled. Rained all day. Most of the time we sat in the livingroom by the Argor type fire and watched wrestling from 1981 (ahh, fond memories of Saturday afternoons as a kid doing just the same in Sheffield - some things are the same the world over!) Used our kitchen privilages to make an enormous soup of veg and potatoes and stuffed ourselves. Finally we had a look around the town in time for sunset by the lake. The town seems great - like the posh cousin of Villaricca - with it's ski shops, fancy cosy restaurants and exquisit gift shops all looking like log cabins of the rich and famous. The wood smoke floating from the tin chimneys made it smell gorgeous and feel like Bonfire Night, whist the cold night and the glowing fairy lights made it look beautiful and feel like Christmas. It was all so so lovely. One thing that wasn't lovely was that we picked up a 'friend' who followed us everywhere for over an hour, wagging his tail and looking up at me with "I'd like you for my mummy" eyes - even putting it's paw out to me - god he knew all the tricks to tug on the old heart strings. Started to feel really sad and guilty - of course I would have loved to have taken him home - and I know he would have been the perfect pal, but I don't have a home! What can I do? At last we went into the supermarket, and as we emerged from a different exit we looked back and he was still stood at the enterance looking in after us and waiting for us. My heart nearly broke. Poor thing. Back at home more soup, and heavens opened once more as we sat warm and full by the roaring fire. As we listened to rain beating down on the roof I couldn't help but think of our little furry friend. I hope he does have a home to go to ... no can't bear to think about it. How much of a soft touch am I?

Villaricca, Chile 17th Aug

Mmmm, lovely long sleep till about 9.30am - then we were naughty and stayed in bed all morning reading and eating banana sandwiches. Washed my hair in the new shampoo and it smells like sick! Then had a go at cutting it. Not crying, so it must have gone ok - though I seemed to have had no system apart from grabbing a bit of hair and cutting it. Seemed to cut lots ( some parts many times over) but hardly any hair in the sink - strange. Also, doesn't exactly look well blended to me - and still as many split ends! Never mind, I always put it up or back so guess will just look the same as ever. Had sandwiches of Tuna fish today ( good change from cheese - yum yum). Went and sat by the lake. It's warm today, so it actually made everything seen even nicer. Tried to get online .. still with no luck, so back to the lake. The sun was just setting and colours that it cast across the water were so subtle it made you breathe gentler as if not to disturb the scene. I complained about how annoying all the blobs that I have infront of my eyes are, and just then Simon said that he had them too (1st time). He stuck his finger in his eye and wiped it all around - then said they were gone. I was reluctant to let him have a go with me as I hate messing around with eyes, and also I have had these blobs for 2 years and even visited the doctor about them, so didn't think it would do any good. 2 minutes later after my eyelids doing their best to close, and Simon's finger doing it's best to poke, I was cured. It's a miricle! Can't believe that I have spent all this time, all this frustration, all this worry, and all that was wrong was that my eyes just needed a good cleaning, like a dirty pair of spctacles! It's good to see again though. Evening spent the same way as yesterday - a beer down stairs before the pizza place - and a smile on my face.

Villaricca Chile 16th August

So glad to be out of the city (did I mention that Santiago is full of blind people - most of them selling goods on the street corners, in fact, come to think of it, the whole of Chile has been full of blind people) and back feeling like a human being. What a difference a day makes! The overnight bus was v. cold - should have known better really as we are alot further south now. However managed to get some sleep and even had a nice dream about Keanu Reeves and Robbie Williams! Si went off to find a hotel (easier said than done as it is off season and most places were closed) and I waited in the freezing cold - unable to sit on the bench as it had a thin layer of ice frozen to it. Despite the cold this is a delightful little town. I immediately felt relaxed and happy. Had a scout around and ended up down by the lake. A beautiful big blue shimmering lake with the active volcano as the perfect backdrop (and that you can see from anywhere in town - and our bedroom window). It's covered in thick white snow with a continuous puff of a cotton-wool ball of smoke being belched from the top. Where the snow stops to the edge of the town there are various pines and furs. Are we in the Alps? Feels like it.All the houses are wooden and look like log cabins and such and chug out smoke from their log fires. It's all so quaint and pretty. A real tonic for the soul. By the lake we flied high on the swings, skimmed stones, talked, had giggles on the see-saw and admired the big beyond. Tucked into cheese and bread and onions from the supermarket. Later had a beer in the cafe downstairs and wrote some postcards by the open log fire (just what we needed in todays cold cold weather. Then we went for a pizza at a place that had a special offer on - again by their open log fire- aahhh. Been a lovely cold on the outside, but sunny on the inside sort of day.

Santiago, Chile 15th August

Happy birthday to Laura - hope you had a good party! Today was better - hot shower, found a place that served us egg and chips (yipee) and then set about killing time before our 9.30pm bus. Walked around the few shops that were open (as today is a public holiday) and then found a small supermarket (yeh, on the last day!) and bought bread, cheese, crisps and...pickled onions. In the internet cafe we still have the same problem - can't use the internet, blogger or hotmail - with out it crashing. So, saved all this to a disk and will use it later when we find a cafe that actually works. Be so glad to get out of the city - it's such hard work. Sorry that the blog has been really boring recently - I'm awaiting inspiration!

Santiago, Chile 14th August

Cursed day despite on paper it being a very productive day. Bad dreams. No hot water. Problems with internet and trying to get printouts of ticket info. However - we did manage to get replacement tickets straight away (thanks to all the ground work Laura did... it was all on file already) -they did charge us $50 for them, despite the fact that we had a police report, but we've got them and that is the main thing, aswell as a huge weight off our shoulders. Next door (swanky part of town) was a TGI Fridays rip-off and we celebrated by having a mushroom soup and a baked potatoe....oh what bliss. How nice, how yummy and how needed. I couldn't have appreciated anything more. Walking by the hotel I heard English voices (a rarity as there are practically no tourists), so I rushed upto them, explained our lack of guide book and asked if we could photocopy theirs. They were just off to the airport so Simon bombed it to a shop, copied and got back in time. Great - saved us so much money. Then time for food again (Simon hadn't eaten yet), but was nothing around - he settled for a couple of dry and greesy empinadas (deep fried thin cheese pasties) and then ages trying to find an internet place. Then we couldn't publish our blogs or send email without it crashing and loosing all our work. My face must have been like thunder when I walked down the stairs because the man asked if everything was alright, to which I answered with a harsh, biting NO! I tried to explain all the problems and despite my lack of technical computer related Spanish (or because of the look on my face) he didn't charge us full price. By this time we were at the end of our tether and decided to head for the security of our little room. No longer with a hunger (just couldn't be bothered with it all - almost like self preservation against disapointment) we decided instead to buy 2 bottles of the cheapest wine (even this wasn't hitch free) and try and salvage our sanity through booze. It worked! Along with the cast of 'Friends' we forgot the frustrating day and enjoyed the evening together.

Santiago, Capital of Chile 13th August

Today is my friends birthday who I have known since I was 4 years old - so I gave her a call to wish her happy 30th. It was really nice to talk to her - there has been no contact (except I sent the kids postcards - which I hear they loved and took to school) for 7months. We got the bus to Santiago, only 2 hours away, through fog and gentle forest laden hills that made me think I was back in Central America.. Nicuragua maybee? Caught the tube -clean, modern, easy and stress free - as they were asking 4pounds each in a cab!!!!! Staying in a great place of town that looks like old Paris - so lovely - and... we have private bathroom, double bed and a tv - such luxeries! Straightaway took the opportunity to do a load of washing (inc my coat that was so loppy that I looked worse than the gypsies). Then goggled out infront of the tv a while (well it was Deer Hunter on there and you can't not watch it) before searching the city for a travel guide for Argentina. Found only one copy in the whole of the city and they were asking $40 for it!!! We can't afford that, but... we can't not have a guide! Walked around the city that reminds me of parts of Paris and also the newer rundown parts of New Orleans and became more and more depressed (not only coz of the guide, but also in expectation of the difficulties we might encounter tomorrow when trying to replace the stolen tickets - and not being able to find a place where we can eat!) I had great expectations for food in Chile, a place that seems to be so civilised in all other ways - but no, it's just as difficult - or worse! We ran back to get some comfort from our hotel - and found it....with 3 consecutive episodes of 'Friends' to lift our spirits.

Valparaiso, Chile Sunday 12th August

Didn’t feel groggy this morning - to my suprise - and if Simon did he hid it well. He was hungry though so was off to the supermarket before I had even gotten up. Had a feast when he returned before setting out into the fresh blue day with a spring in our steps.Yesterday I found the city dirty, rundown, nothing to see and no reason to stay, but today I saw it’s rundown charm - some streets reminding me of Pigalle in Paris (once grand and affluant, now faded, dirty and a bit sleezy - where it once housed people of importance it now sells burgers and shop seconds. But I liked it).Went to the end of the docks, surrounded by Chilean families out for the day, and watched the ships. We went up an 'Ascensor' - a cable car on tracks that runs up the side of the hillside (the surrounding hills are very steep and there are 20 of these contraptions around the city to take you up). In the cable car Simon was 'The People's Favorite' as a young boy talked to him about his McDonald's Furbie, a family took him to thier heart and then an old woman grabbed him and dragged him to the window to show him the city. It was lovely at the top - large honey smelling trees and a small promanade around a large white and pretty looking naval museum. We took a look around it and learned more about the national obsession with Bernard O'Higgins and Arthur Pratt ( you really don't want to know!). We walked back down the hill past peeling paint wooden slat houses on stilts (rather like in Belize), but instead of these being out over the sea, they were out over the hill's edge, like a giant tide had gone out and never come back again, leaving them stranded. They were so dilapitated that one puff from the Big Bad Wolf, and they would all have come tumbling down. Sat in the lovely park (one thing that I love so much about South America) with it's towering trees, black iron statues and the most beautiful fountain I have seen yet, whilst kids drove rented peddle cars around. Decided all we needed to eat (and dared risk) was a bag of chips - but they were yuck and we had to chuck them before we chucked! Finished the day off by going to the 8pm show of Jurassic Park 3. It was ok, but the best part was seeing the kids' extreme reactions in the audience. We always seem to have a good Sunday!

Valparaiso, Chile 11th Aug

Was a good journey last night and we arrived at about 7am this morning. No hotels were open though and Si kept trying to rouse them until at last he managed to - but it was 8am by then and I had gotten cold, so when we got in the room I lept into bed with all my clothes on and had a lazy morning. Was starving so went to find somewhere to eat. Mmmm, easier said than done! It got to that crucial point, where it was food or a screaming fit just in time, as we found a veggie place! Simon had a pizza and I had a stew (took all the meat substitue out, but boy was it good to eat potatoes!!! What a treat. Poor old Simon’s pizza was rather strange. The base was more like a dumplin, topped not by a sauce and the usual additions, but by 3 slices of tomatoe and a thin slice of barely melted cheese!! Nice!!) This whole food thin has become a bit of an issue with me again recently - it’s just so depressing. Anyway, we drowned our sorrows after by going and havind a beer- or two. Got into some heavy & heated decussions (Simon’s sea pull versus my land pull. Simon’s argument of nurture/society keeping people down (especially relating to beggers and gypsies - which we’ll come back to later) versus my idea of spirit overcoming all of family or social limitations) By the time we stumbled home (Simon a little more than stumbling!) we had put the world to rights - but agreed to differ on our methods. * About the gypsies - they are everywhere, trying to get money off of you in quite an agressive manner - holding onto you and not taking no for an answer - which makes me really angry, but we'll not go into the ins and outs of it.

La Serena, Chile 10th August

The last day of watching slobberchops quote Eliza Doolittle with egg running down his mouth. Thank god! Finished my bad and overdone book and swapped it for a light hearted look at travel through Central America and started on it whilst Simon did the internet (he wasn’t able to get online yesterday). Spent time in the park before returning to the house to finish the last of our enormous salad. Was cornered by ‘Ugly Dog’ Charles who wanted us to write down Cockney-Ryhming Slang, and it’s meanings for him. I was fighting the giggles as I could only think of rude examples, and was dying to tell them to him, but with an innocent explanation. Luckily for him, the giggles didn’t go away and so I wasn’t able to say anything. Then we took our bags to the bus station and read outside until it was too cold to, then we went and window shopped inside the big mall. At 8pm we saw Planet of the Apes - which was a load of rubbish- but it killed the time till our 11.15pm bus.

La Serena, Chile 9th August

Simon bought me museli and yogurt yesterday, so there was no need for me to go to breakfast - but after a while my good manners (or guilt from leaving Simon to cope with the musical king alone) got the better of me and I joined them for a drink. After a few verses of a song from My Fair Lady (I know it's predictable.. you should be there sat opposite him trying either to keep your own face straight, or your fist from going through his!) and a discussion on why the man singing it sounds strange (not as strange as he does!) because he is singing with an accent, I had to drive a fork into the back of my hand or leave. I chose the second option. Had a nice long walk up the hills and around the city. Lovely views and warm fresh morning. Later called in at the malls as they have fantastically cheap video cameras that were too much of a bargin to pass up - but unfortunately were the wrong format - so we had to! More of our enormous and delicious salad and then here to fill you in on the latest. We are moving on tommorrow - to Valpariaso - a coastal city right by Santiago. Think we will be torn limb from limb later as Alexandro and his (thought it was his dad) brother vi for our attentions. Patience Rachel,... or another fake headache maybe?

La Serena, (Pisco Elqui) Chile, 8th August

My book has gone to my head - all last night I thought that people were out to brainwash me, and I was looking out for secret passwords and Haiku poetry - mad! Breakfast I wished someone had brainwashed me! Not sure how many more songs from musicals sung in bad English and even worse tune, along with conversations about English sayings (minus any real understanding of what is being talked about) I can take. So we escaped. To the Elqui Valley. The landscape was odd - so many contradictions - barren hills, colourful flowres, dry giant cacti, assortment of trees (from lime green to snow white), a river the strangest light apple-green and miles upon miles of vinyards. Kept thinking "It is like Greece - no it's like Swiss Alps - no more like Tuscanny" until I gave up and realised that it isn't like anywhere else - it's like Chile!! Was very pretty. Got off at Pisco Elqui (named after the famous drink down here). Walked all around this sweet, tranquil village and made the most of it's lovely hot climate. Ate our lunch of banana and bread in the square overshadowed behind by a candy coloured painted steeple church and lulled infront by a quaint fountain sculpured with small children. Aquired a dog friend that followed us everywhere - even around the Pisco distillery that we toured, and saw all the steps of pisco production - even onto the bus to go home... but reluctantly I had to get him back off the bus and leave him behind. Was a lovely relaxing day (apart from meeting a bitch from Australia at the distilery and then on the bus back - yak yak yak from her and ggrrrr from me - keep me at arms length!) Back at the house I wasn't in the mood to suffer any more fools, so when a half cut Alexandro headed towards us with invitations to join him for a drink and to listen to his music as soon as we opened the door, I jumped and said that I had a headache and would be going to bed. Simon left to get some food (salad actually -need real veg) and some iron tablets for me - think I'm lacking- and we had a real feast when he got back. Unfortunately Simon did get dragged off to listen to Britney, but managed to escape easy enough as his kidnapper slipped even further into oblivion to notice. Been a nice day - good to see a little more of the countryside

La Serena, Chile 7th August

Spent most of the day getting things done at a very leisurely pace (photocopying guide book of Chile, catching up with Weblog and emails, looking for a pocket diary etc etc). Later leaped on a bus to Coquimbo (the harbour where we went the other day) for a fish dinner by the sea. Although the fish wasn't exactly tasty, it was nice to eat something other than pizza or pasta. We watched the sun go down over the yellow-golden boats before heading home, where I read whilst poor old Simon got roped into drinks with Alexandro whilst listening to Shirley Bassey, My Fair Lady and Britney Speers!

La Serena, Chile 6th August

Strange breakfast as Alexandro sat with us and sang (in almost unrecognisable English) most of the lyrics from 'My Fair Lady'. Washed loads of clothes and didn't leave the house until about midday. Simon was in a devilish but sweet mood today. We caught he bus to the port. Clear light and soft sun bounced off the bright 'St Clements' coloured boats as large pelicans circled ahead or rested on the dingys waiting for a beakful of fish and remember the one of the many riddles, poems and ditties my grandma used to quote (A great big bird is a pelican, it's beak holds more than it's belly can. It holds in it's beak enough to last it a week; I don't know how the hell it can!). The boat ride Simon wanted to take me on may not be going ahead (lack of passengers) so we sit and have a cup of tea, walk around the fish market (Simon samples the Cervice - raw fish and seafood in brine, lemon and corriander), then rest on a bench by stalls selling driftwood and shell mobiles and ornamental flamingos made from small pink conch shells and watch the sea. We are saved by a last minute group booking by day-tripping old people. The sea is very 'hilly' and we go up and down and side to side a little too much for my liking (probably made worse by the fact that we were made to wear life jackets). It's a nice ride past rocks of pelicans till we reach a tall rocky island where I did a semi 'Tortuguero reaction on seeing the turtle' - but this time it was to the Sealions that were splayed across the rocks! Simon hadn't told me so it was a great suprise. Dozens of sunning sealions between preening pelicans. Huge blubber-wrapped beasts. The boss on top showing off his tremendous neck fat and bearing his long sharp teeth in an extended yawn to warn us off as the catamaran pulled up increadably and dangerously close to the island (hence the life jackets). It was fantastic. Didn't mind that we didn't see any dolphins - only the odd sealion along side of the boat on our journey back. Back on dry land we decided to walk part way back around the wide curved light-black sandy beach. I chased seaguls and pelicans along with a wolf dog that had joined us and when we came to shallow river outlets to the sea, Simon carried me across 'St. Christopher' style. We talked and sang and laughed for an hour and a half as we crunched hundreds of white calm shells and red crab backs under foot whilst the light changed and the distantant mountains faded to invisible. Peaceful, relaxing, spacious and lungs full of fresh air. Back in town we found a cosy little resaurant playing Bing Crosby, Dean Martin and other old greats and reminissed. Was the perfect end to a perfect day.

La Serena, Chile Sunday 5th August

Arrived at 5.30am and as we were sat by a corner waiting to telephone a place that was recomended to us - the man cycled past! It's not a hotel but his home, and is nice to be there with furniture around us. Haven't been in a home since leaving Jenkins'. The city was deserted as it was Sunday, but meant we could explore and enjoy it in peace. It's beautiful. Lovely grand detailed painted buildings, peaceful squares, lots of statues and palm trees and fountains - (all sound the same don't they?). They really know how to build towns in South America. They wipe the floor with British towns - and you won't find any rubbish in the streets at all. It's so bizzare being here though as it is all modern. Real shops where you can buy anything! Proper cafes that are not only clean but decorated (wallpaper - blast from the past)... we are in a dazed and confused state walking around. I think the highlight of the day was going to s super supermarket - like KMart- and being overwhelmed and excited by everything. Strolled back in light that is remenisant of hot and humid times (dark blue sky growing lighter until it is a yellow band down at the horizon, silhouetted by palm trees). So far the worst thing about Chile is that they have a terrible accent. Can't understand a word of it (and they can't understand us either!). They talk so fast, gabbled, clipped yet sloppy, dropping consanants. It's impossible! Evening was spent talking to the old man of the house (who looked like 'Ugly Dog' from Utila with his strange eyes and protruding lower teeth) about everything from The Royal Family to the Chiliean wine we were drinking (in English!!!) whilst he showed us his painting of the Middle East.

San Pedro - La Serena, Chile 4th August

2 hours to Calama, 1 hour waitover and then 16 hours to La Serena - but oh a treat like no other - one that had Simon and I dancing with glee and as excited as a couple of kids on Christmas day. The buses, the buses of course. After over 5 months of the poorest excuse for a bus you can imagine, we are in a country where the buses seem to be made by god's own hands. Touching the fixtures and fittings to make sure they were real -toilet, reclining seats, leg-room, tv and video, drinks served and blankets and pillows. Wow with cherries on top! Spent all day and night very happy in our spanking bus watching videos, as well as the desert landscape beyond our cosy capsule. Ahhh, I like Chile!

San Pedro de Aticama, Northern Chile, 3rd August

Relaxed, chilled out and let the past 3 days sink in. Nice walks and long spells of sitting in the square in the warm sunshine filled the day. Little more sorting to do with stolen tickets puts our minds a little more at ease, and was lovely to speak to my parents over the telephone (couldn't get hold of Simon's). Feel a little anxious about 12 rolls of film we sent home not arrived yet (but that is because of having the bag stolen just one day after taking the films out of the bag... now I'm paranoid about their saftey). Enjoying my body adjusting to lack of very high altitude -(dry sore throat, collapsing soft pallat, difficulty breathing, runny/blocked nose and the harsh cough). Feeling halthier. Suppose we'd been at altitude quite some time.

Desert to San Pedro de Aticama, CHILE 2nd Aug

Haven't been able to wash since leaving Uyuni and can't wait to get to Chile and have a shower .. but many more things to see first. Woken at 5.30am, no breakfast so we could cross more desert and be somewhere spectacular for sunrise. These are the world's highest Geysers. Forcefully blowing hundreds of feet into the air with the sun coming up behind it made the main one glow bright golden and I almost expected to see a Genie form at the top of it. Spectacular. As we walked around there were hundreds of smaller ones - magical dragons imprisoned in the earth and screaming for release. In and out of the moon like terrain dodging boing pits of bubbling mud (double double toil and trouble, fire burn and couldren bubble) or angry outbursts of spitting spraying mud. Yet another landscape almost unacceptable to the brain, with figures silhouetted against bright smoke like the descending aliens exiting their ship in 'Close Encounters' . Beautiful calm amist such struggle. Our breakfast stop was by a lake frozen at one end, but with hot springs at the other, and whilst our driver cooked our scrambled eggs, we stripped off shoes and socks and soaked in the very hot and very soothing water. Then past more lakes and mountains to one that should have looked green - but the wind was in the wrong direction that day, and so didn't! It was however frozen solid so we ventured out onto it. How beautiful and fulfilling. What a way to say goodbye to Bolivia. We really have seen some unbelievable things .. and they still haven't sunk in yet. As we crossed the border and into Chile, the change was immediate. Tarmac roads!!! Oh, this is some distant luxery from somewhere back in my memory. We turned around the side of a mountain on par with it's cap of snow to see an ongoing flat swirl of muted colours far far below us (like seeing the bottom of a depp ocean) ... this was Chile. San Pedro de Aticama certainly was a welcome village, making us feel relaxed straight away. Though it is flat sand buildings it's warm and civilised. Long hot shower, and a meal in a 'proper' restaurant with decor, candle light, good music and... red wine!!! Oh a lovely end to a fantasic trip, and a good start to a whole new country!

Salar de Uyuni - Laguna Colorada , Bolivia Wed 1st August!

Awoke to the 1st day of August (so soon!) in the cold and dark for breakfast at 6am. Set off with morning light fighting it's way up to combat night sky. Today was deserts - every size, shape and variation. Occsational stretches of hard small scrub was the only vegitation we saw. Lovely deep golden orange sand leading upto gentle mountains of hughes of yellow, red, brown swirlling in patterns around them.Stopped at a lake that was full of Flamingos (3 kinds, from almost white to deep bright pink with flashes of black under their wings.) Elegant - obscure in this environment. On through the desert to a long tall boulder on which we saw a desert fox stalking out an Andies rabbit-like creature. How can anything survive out here? Next a 'rock - tree' and finally a lake that is surrounded by mountains ... but this lake is unique as it changes colour from blue to red. Here we are spending the night and there is plenty of time to expolre before dinner. Around the lake are mineral deposits that looks like snow but aren't despite deep frozen puddles and outlet that interweave it. When we first arrived the water was mainly red with areas and sheens of blue, but the lake soon turned into something from biblical times and a lake of blood lay before us. Girls and boys red means red - thick solid bright red. Amazing! As Simon and I walked around it it changed to cerice, deep salmon, alake full of baked been juice and orange. All these colours were vivid and intense - you couldn't keep your eyes off of it - so so strange and wonderful. Pinch me is this real? Round the side more flamingos and passing heards of llamas. At night put on even more clothes to sleep in (all my clothes I think), as well as the sleeping bag and blankets. Despite the estimated outside temperature of -20 degrees, I was warm, and it was my horid altitude cough that kept me awake ( we are over 4500 meters high ). Great great day.

Salars de Uyuni, Bolivia 31st July

Sharing our 3 day trip in a jeep with 2 Dutch, a crazy Scot and an ex marine from England. We all hit it off fantastically and the whole time travelling was a huge laugh / party / shared experience of being dumb-struck. The next 3 day's installment are going to be the hardest bit of writing I have ever done. The things we have seen are so beyond explanation or comprehention, that I don't know how I can put it into words to do it justice. First we crossed the salt desert. This was a giant lake thousands of years ago, and all that is left now is a flat expanse hundreds of miles long and wide that is white and gleaming as snow - salt! It changes from hard to powdery, to be covered by water, and to be in the shape of large hexagonals (like being on the back of a giant albino tortoise). Doesn't sound too impressive does it.. but 'By eck!' as they say in Sheffield! We were surrounded by grand imposing mountains in the distance, which with the water on the horizon made them seem to be floating. Optical illustions all around, not able to tell salt from sky, islands being reflected by the water so perfectly that strange symetrical shapes like psychoanalyst's butterfly splodges hung from nothing - in the middle of nothing. The most inspiring and spooky feeling - what sort of world have I come to? - not one that I know! At last we came to Fish Island (named so because of it's reflective shape). In the middle of this endless flat barren world of salt lies a tall island made from rock that looks like coral or petrified boiling mud, and is covered with giant giant cacti. Explored the crazy island with the even crazier surrounds with open mouthed wonder. Wow - is seeing believing? Back to Uyuni to pick up our packs and hired sleeping bags (so cold at night - in fact a week ago a jeep broke down in the middle of the night and the 7 Bolivia passengers decided to try and walk back - ending in the 7 people being frozen to death!) This time we travelled through 'real' desert landscape, the dimming colours of the evening making the scenery a set from Star Wars. In a tiny village we bed down for the night (after our driver has cooked for us) in a dormitory with other people crossing the desert, and dream of weird shapes and wonderful lands.

Uyuni, Bolivia 30th July

Spent the day sorting out stuff - how to get replacement tickets (with much needed and appreciated help from Laura), finding torches and alarm clocks - a new camera (only 8 to choose from - 3 of them being brand rip-offs), obtaining a police report and booking a trip to the desert. In the morning I felt quite ill and found it hard to get up (only natural I suppose), but once I got going I was o.k. It all could have been much worse thinking about it, and figured we got off lightly, so we got on with not letting it pull us down. Uyuni is as bizzare as it's name - a desert town in the middle of a desert; bare, sandy, obscure - could be from a sci-fi film... but I like it. Now can't wait for our trip tommorrow, not only to visit the salt plains and desert, but also at the end of the 3 days to be away from this country, and into a new one. Bolivia has been an amazing country- full of great natural wonders - but it has been a very trying country to travel through, and we feel we have had enough of walking through treacle. Hope lies ahead for Chile.

Sucre - Uyuni, Bolivia 29th July

What a day! Can't be bothered with all the ins and outs, so to cut a long story short, today I fell for the oldest trick in the book... Divertion in order to steal! Changed busses at Potosi (the grim mining town) and whilst we were stood right by the door of the bus a man pointed out 'guck' down my sleeve - I argued with him as I'd seen him eating chocolate sauce and accused him of doing it - meanwhile an accomplis took our daypack along with our valuable items! I felt so stupid (along with many other feelings). Why didn't I realise it was a scam sooner - but he was very slick, a real pro. Like I said, I don't really want to go on about it - it happened and it's behind us now - along with camera, exposed film (1 luckily), diaries (Simon's since Guatamala), torch, clock, guide book, account book, hat and tickets!!! As you can imagine, it wasn't a terribly pleasant journey, although the beautiful graceful scenery helped to sooth me. Arrived in Uyuni late and just wanted to curl away and not think about it.

Sucre, Bolivia Saturday 28th July

20 more kids with cars on strings have just ran past the door ... what's going on? That's the Americas for you - never a dull moment. Well we're still here, but will definately(?) move on tommorrow. Looking forward to seeing the Salars, and also moving onto a new country. Bolivia has been good, but very frustrating (strikes etc) as the country definately dictates what you can and can't do/visit. Wonder how Chile will be for Book Exchanges- they have become an important part of our travels (I would even go so far as saying that they have become Simon's obsession) as we read a book a week (or more). We always have about 6 books with us! I also wonder what the toilet habbits will be of our new country.Explanation: Here (and all the way down), no matter what kind of place you're in (*poshest of restraunts /hotel /cafe etc) you never expect to find toilet roll supplied - or soap - or something to dry your hands on (lucky if you get running water) - and should you find a place that has one of these luxeries, you report back enthusiastically to the other person so that they can use the said facilities and make the most of the opportunity. Also, a very common site is women weeing in the streets (actually, I don't think I've seen a man releiving himself). This takes quite a bit of getting used to. One minute they're just walking along - the next they fumble under their layers of skirts, bob down- and Bob's your uncle! * Back tracking for a moment, to the comment on posh restraunts (very rare) - but should we walk past a place that has carpet, fancy lights and a matching colour scheme, then I'm all excited and oohing and aahing nose pressed to window like child at sweet shop and thinking "How posh!". Strange comment coming from a woman who in her lunch hour working in London's Mayfair, used to be welcomed to Claridges with open arms and sit sipping free flowing champagne, a woman who has been to invitation only 'big band' dinner and dances at the Savoy, a woman who has been to lavish balls at private mansions, who has slept in the same bed as Kings from the 1800's... mmm, strange how things change!

Sucre, Bolivia Saturday 28th July

20 more kids with cars on strings have just ran past the door ... what's going on? That's the Americas for you - never a dull moment. Well we're still here, but will definately(?) move on tommorrow. Looking forward to seeing the Salars, and also moving onto a new country. Bolivia has been good, but very frustrating (strikes etc) as the country definately dictates what you can and can't do/visit. Wonder how Chile will be for Book Exchanges- they have become an important part of our travels (I would even go so far as saying that they have become Simon's obsession) as we read a book a week (or more). We always have about 6 books with us! I also wonder what the toilet habbits will be of our new country.Explanation: Here (and all the way down), no matter what kind of place you're in (*poshest of restraunts /hotel /cafe etc) you never expect to find toilet roll supplied - or soap - or something to dry your hands on (lucky if you get running water) - and should you find a place that has one of these luxeries, you report back enthusiastically to the other person so that they can use the said facilities and make the most of the opportunity. Also, a very common site is women weeing in the streets (actually, I don't think I've seen a man releiving himself). This takes quite a bit of getting used to. One minute they're just walking along - the next they fumble under their layers of skirts, bob down- and Bob's your uncle! * Back tracking for a moment, to the comment on posh restraunts (very rare) - but should we walk past a place that has carpet, fancy lights and a matching colour scheme, then I'm all excited and oohing and aahing nose pressed to window like child at a sweet shop and thinking "How posh!". Strange comment coming from a woman who in her lunch hour working in London's Mayfair, used to be welcomed to Claridges with open arms and sit sipping free flowing champagne, a woman who has been to invitation only 'big band' dinner and dances at the Savoy, a woman who has been to lavish balls at private mansions, who has slept in the same bed as Kings from the 1800's... mmm, strange how things change! It's all relavant!

Sucre, Bolivia 27th July

Didn't sleep at all last night - but I don't know why. Overcast and cold again today. Did interneting, went shopping for a jumper but didn't see any that hit the spot, looked for the theatre but only the Bulgarian ballet on (Bulgarian!...give that a miss!) Had a nice lunch .. lots of normal things today that don't really make for a good blog! - (oohh, about 40 kids have just gone running up the street pulling bits of string with various toy cars, trucks etc tied to the end!! Must be some Bolivia Grand Prix?)- Anyway, the evening we went to our favourite restaurant (it's balcony) and had a few beers to help us discuss everything from world debt to future family. We have decided to stay in Sucre just one more day!...

Sucre, Bolivia 26th July

Was overcast and quite chilly today. Been a day of sorting out and stressing: internet too slow and messing me around, finding out about sending films via EMS (S.American equivalant to DHL), postcards to a couple of people, sending a gift to a new baby, doing some important shopping, and then sending the films off (with much anxiety - not only because you worry as they are important and irreplacable.- but also because the man in the job, despite being metaculously thorough, seemed incapable of even the simplest tasks- doesn't instill confidence!) With it all behind us we set off for our favourite place and read until it was too cold to. Been nice spending the time here - but think we will push on to the Sallars (salt plains) with a full day's journey on Saturday.

Sucre, Bolivia 25th July

Feel much better now - back to normal - but still have a cough and stuffy nose that I haven't been able to shift since La Paz. In the plaza we saw a man with a camera (a sort of Bolivia Alfie), and since dad mensioned that our photos don't have any close-ups amongst them, we decided to get our photo taken and email the photo to the families. Click - 20p deposit and the man disapeared to go and get the picture developed. We thought that would be the last we saw of him, but 30min later he returned with the print and collected 30p more, and both parties were happy. At 3 o'clock the main event of the day, which we had both been looking forward to like 2 overexcitable kids, was going to the cinema. We saw "What Women Want" with Mel Gibson, and even though the film was nothing more than average, we enjoyed it as the treat it was - with a bottle of fizzy pop, 5 sweats each lined up on the arm of our chairs, and much silly excitability (don't think the other 6 people in the audience noticed our madness). In a good mood we made a night of it and sat on a balcony overlooking the main plaza, had pasta, had a beer and had a laugh.

Sucre, Bolivia 24th July
The main event today was finding out at 12pm that the hotel had overbooked it's rooms and needed us out! (despite us having booked 2 more nights there). The only other room they had was more expensive, but they refused to put us in there unless we paid the higher price. Well Simon's Spanish has been put to good use these days - with all the arguing he's been doing. He wasn't a happy bunny I can tell you, and put up a good fight - but to no avail! Never mind - he who laughs last- Simon wrote a great letter to the hotel owners, complaining about their management etc - it was really loaded and made him feel much better about it all. Anyway, the new hotel is just as good. Spent the rest of the day sitting in the long park or in the plaza, the sun is lovely and hot. There seems so many very poor homeless campasinos here, living on the streets, with their faded ponchos, many children and tin saucepan/pale they carry around for their food. There also seems a greater amount of very physically disabled people - no legs, or legs so malformed that the person has to walk around on hands and knees, hands missing or eyes missing and the empty socket stuffed with cotton wool. Maybee they have come from Potosi where the only work is down the mines and due to the utterly dire conditions, life expectancy down there is just 15 years (the mine claiming 8 million lives in 300 years). Maybee it's just that they're more noticable here. (There were many poor street people in La Paz, but the city was worn and dull and busy and the people there just blended into the background, unnoticable - sad thought that isn't it?). Here the city is grand and elegant with Spanish or Colonial buildings and intricate iron balconies akin to Savannah - all sparkling pure white like it's just recieved a brand new coat of paint or never been soiled by so much as a dirty fingerprint. Here these people don't blend in. They are from a different world and time, and there presence here doesn't sit comfortably. There is a little boy of about 3 or 4 years old who- whatever time of day or night - is stood on this one corner with a little toy guitar, strumming for all he is worth, stamping his feet and nodding his smiling head from side to side. Giving all he's got for the chance of a few Bolivianas. It breaks my heart and every time I see him I want to whisk him away, give him a hot bath, feed him up, read him stories, teach him to write, make him laugh until he cries and them tuck him up into a nice warm bed at the end of the day and keep him safe.... But what can I really do? Gringo money can do more harm than good - helping only the situation to continue. It's a tough call.

Sucre, Bolivia 23rd July

Didn't have a good night as I felt ill with stomache cramps all night. Basically I was up and Si bought me a natural yoghurt, then asleep again till 1.30, then managed to eat a banana and bread and sat outside. Si came back from ? at about 2.30 and we had a cup of tea. I felt better so we went out for a gentle walk and fresh air. Found a lovely park with tall fir trees, a minature Eiffel Tower, a small moat with paddle boats, a bridge, iron trellis arbouritum, statues and hot sunlight highlighting the above and making it feel comforting and relaxing. We sat with our legs over the bridge and had one of our famous conversations about life, what you learn from it, discovering what you want from it and then going for what you want. Later had a tomatoe soup (my comfort food for when I'm ill) and back to hotel for another early night. Still got a few cramps (think it's mostly from the long cold stressful bus journeys) but feel better, even though feel physically worn out. Despite being ill I've had a really nice day with Simon and feel really close and happy.

Sucre, Bolivia Sunday 22nd July

Hideous journey. Was actually warm enough - but shouldn't have eaten so much before the journey as there wasn't a toilet stop until 6am!! Got off and ran for the toilet, then when I came to reboard was told that the bus terminates here (Potosi) and that we had to change bus. It was freezing (Potosi being famous for being cold) and the bus was small and ramshattled and poor old Simon had no leg room at all. He had an argument with the man infront as he kept banging back on his seat and nearly breaking Simon's legs. We wetre frozen and at the end of our tether - no sleep or comfort, and there was also a jam for a bike race?. 14 hours later we were at last in Sucre cold and fed up. At hotel we had a long long hot shower, bought fruit in the market (I had such a craving for vitamins) and sat and ate it in a square. Checked our emails and back to hotel to relax on the roof and read our books. Not as cold here - yipee. A much needed early night, and glad to back in a double bed again.

Tupiza, Bolivia 21st July

Took a trip at 8am this morning to the north of the village to see more natural wonders. 4 of us in a jeep across the wild tarain to a place where there were giant gorges of deep red needles - like looking down into hell, then to where there were sand coloured 'candles' of rock. It was really nice, but not the same as the horseriding, where you were completlely in, and surrounded by it - the live version. Got back and decided to go to Sucre tonight (only 1 bus a day at night). Packed and left stuff with the hotel and wondered around the market (no nice hats or skirts -plenty of dried Llama and armadillos) then to the square where we met Simon again and went for a coke. Back up the Cerro for sunset again - calm, happy and in love, then back for pizza and chips (there is nothing else to eat here - honest!) Collected bag, put all our layers of clothes on (feel like the Mitchelin Man) and off to the bus station for yet another night on a cold bus.

Tupiza, Bolivia 20th July

I think I actually slept through the night, and though I daren't move a muscle I was actually warm. Had breakfast and decided to have a look at the tour/trips on offer - and booked ourselves to do some horse riding in the afternoon. Had an icecream in the square, then a look around the market, and Simon bought some woolen knitted long johns like mine for those cold nights and long bus journeys (sorry Simon - there goes your street cred!). 2pm the guide was waiting with a horse for us each and off we went into the desert. Well, what an increadable afternoon it was. This is the most stunning landscape I have ever seen. I was so upset because in La Paz we put a black & white film in the camera (we were only going to see desert so thought we could get some atmospheric shots) - what we didn't know was that this desert is colourful! (actually that is an understatement!) Giant rocks of burning red, mountains of deep sienna, rocks pale green,slopes of bright sage,floor of gentle yellow, crags of grey,pinacles of blue... it was like a child had gotten hold of the landscape and gone mad with his paintbox. So, so beautiful. Breathtaking in its wonder. All around giant long cacti with cotton wool heads that shone like a halo with the sun behind it, and Simon and I in the middle of it all like 2 pioneers or the only people left on this strange earth that the rest of the world forgot - or never knew about in the first place. Omar the guide asked if we wanted to gallop and we agreed. Opps - nearly had an accident in my trousers! I realise that what we did in Guatamala was definately not gallopping. How fast! It took a while for the adrenalin to slow down and me to get over the initial shock - but I liked it. For 2 hours we wound around the giant needle rock forms, through the devils door and were surrounded strange sights of nature. We did more galloping - what a rush - as the horses rode off leaving a cloud of dust behind, and feeling raw and alive.We were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid reincarnate! (I'm sure they couldn't have shot the film down here as I don't remember these colourful mad rocks - but this where they came and lived- and were eventually killed in a village a little to the north) We stopped by a ravine that narrowed and the horses could go no further so Simon and I climbed through it- up and over the giant red rocks. It was like we were inside an illustration for a magical fairy story book - the red rocks having giant spakling white crystals sticking from them, and stones of blue, purple and green. The ravine wound around with frail weeping trees along the path looking soft and dreamlike against the stone, and the floor was even more strange as it was covered with a white crystalised substance like salt, that made it look like you were walking through stones of pure fire on a path of freshly fallen frosty snow. Beautiful, magical and other worldly. An hour riding back to the town, with lots of galloping and feeling fantastic. Wow, what a fantastic experience we had - unlike anything I could imagine. In the evening we again had pizza again and talked about our brilliant time- 2 free spirts in a wild land. We climbed the Cerro at the back of the town to overlook it at sunset. What a spectacular sunset it was too - the sky competing for colour and splendor against the landscape beneath it. We stood and watched in awe and held each other - almost to confirm that we were real - this was real. What a day!

Tupiza, Bolivia 19th July

At 8.30am this morning I looked out of the window and saw the most stunning scenery that I almost forgot my frozen and painful knees. It was like a rich desert, tall cacti, brushy trees, wide but shallow frozen streams and lovely long morning shadows. Really really beautiful - so different. This landscape continued till it became more and more desert - dryer and sparcer till we reached Tupiza- some 20 hours later! I was ready to get off the bus by then. Both a bit dazed (or dozed?) from the journey and our first impressions of Tupiza were not entirely favorable! (yes the surounding landscape is lovely but the town itself - characterless mud brick buildings - nothing more than empty streets of blowing dust). Got room and needed to eat so had a big pizza, chips and beer and it was definately what the doctor ordered! Got talking to a bloke from England in the cafe called Simon and started to relax and swap travel tales. Walked to the square and sat (Si bought me a toffee apple),the square is really nice actually and we start to feel a bit more human. It was an early night with us, both sqashed into a single bed with blankets from other bed too, and loads of layers of clothes - desperate for a bit of warmth.

LA Paz - Tupiza Bolivia Wed 18th July

In the morning we went to the bus station to catch the next bus to Oruro, but when we got there all the tellers were closed and there was a state of confusion. The campasino's strikes had hit southern Bolivia and no buses were allowed to Oruro (or anywhere along that road, which is the major connection to the south.) We bought a ticket to Tupiza (which was our end destination anyway) and were told that they would know if it would be allowed to leave at about 5 o'ck. So, we left our packs with the ticket office and set off to kill the day in La Paz (not knowing whether we would be forced to kill a week or a month here due to the strikes!). Sat in the sun light square and watched the world go by; the posh woman feeding the pigeons, the 2 young indian girls from out of town sat on the steps sharing a private joke, the man selling balloons who had a stump leg and sat ironically under a tree that had a sawn off branch and all the other comings and goings of the people. We went back to the bus station at 4 to find out if there was any news, but the police had blocked the gate and everyone was trying to get in. We eventually pushed through still to have no news; then there was an anouncement saying that the blockade would be lifted for buses to be allowed to leave at 5 o'ck only. There was huge panic as everyone tried to get bus tickets (not knowing when the next opportunty to leave the city might be). Anyway, to cut a long story short, we eventually got on our way at nearer to 6 o'ck (because of people with too much luggage and dozens of human sized bundles of coca) - but we were allow to leave and only 10 mins down the road 2 bundles of coca fell off the roof. I thought we'd never get out, and there was so much arguing and fuss, I was really stressed. Anyway, it was the start of a bad journey (there wasn't any bother from the Campasinos - just the odd blockade of rocks in the road) but the people! Due to overcrowding people were sitting/sleeping in the aisle and leaning with full weight on Simon who was already squashed (no leg room at all) - so there were a few words said - a few times! There were only 2 toilet stops from 6pm to 6am and it was freezing cold, despite 8 layers of clothes,plus hat, gloves, blanket etc - there was even ice on the inside of the window!

La Paz, La Paz, Bolivia 17th July

Reluctantly back to La Paz (we need to push on as there is a conecting train we'd like to catch from our next destination tomorrow) The road back was hard again - but mostly because a lorry broke down (ran out of petrol!) and blocked the road for an hour. Oh well, back in La Paz we rewarded ourselves with a big Chineese meal!

Coroico, La Paz, Bolivia 11th - 17th July

Well we had a lovely time at the ballet last night - so many regions and styles and costumes and music - it was great. Felt so ill today though and on top of it all had a journey on 'the most dangerous road in America'. It was very windy and narrow and dropped 3000metres in 80km - but the scenery was spectacular and we were right up next to snowy mountains and grazing llamas. Our destination Coroico was beyond what we'd hoped for and as you can see from the dates at the top of the entry, we kept saying 'One more day' - it quite easily could have gone on longer too! We had a hotel that looked more like a millionare's retreat - a swimming pool below, a huge dancefloor sized balcony to ourselves looking out onto the most to die for view ever. It was very high up and looking down into an ongoing valley flanked with snow caps peeping out of the clouds. 270* around you nothing but heart-stopping beauty of magestical and mystical mountains. We did nothing all day but sit out in our swimwear watching the changing cloud formations and subtle changes in colour across the hills and sky - paradise. It was scorching weather and we have both got our tans back! We would sometimes have a small walk into the town square with it's grand colonial church, towering palm trees and overeasy pace. There are blacks out here (first seen since Central Am) - it's seems a little strange when you see them kitted out in the flaired skirts and bowlers - guess just not used to the lookI got a pinifore that all the women wear out here - sweet, with a very full skirt (sort of looks a bit 'Little House on the Prairie' -ish) Sometimes a swim to cool off, or a pizza in the square (the Bolivia couple running it becoming our friends and good conversations were had. On the Sunday night there was a festival for the town in which there was a parade with torches and bands playing. Each sector of the community paraded - from schools, church, football teams, clerks, peasants and even the arny ( who fired live amunition into the air from a truck!) Was mad but fun. The next day it happened all over again! Mostly though we relaxed and then relaxed some more watching little yellow birds flit from the banana trees, and overhead giant Condours swoop elegantly - taking your eyeline from one wonder to the next. Each night we would finish it the same way; rum and coke on the pitch black balcony under a canopy of stars and talk of good times past and days ahead. What a lovely time and place.

La Paz, Bolivia, 10th July.

(Forgot to tell you that Bolivia is one hour ahead, so we are now only 5 hours behind you). Had a terrible sleep as it was freezing! In the morning I had a sore throat and runny nose and felt rather under the weather. Had a nice day though taking it easy and walking around the city. We popped into the embassy in the off chance that they would extrend our visas, and they did with no hassle or cost. This gives us as much time here as we want ( and maybe need - seeing as the other 2 countries are very expensive and we are on an ever decreasing budget). We sat and ate our special fruit in a sun drenched square, bought more film for our camera (yes I know - more!) ate delicious salad (with our bodies cheering at the fresh veg) and had a good talk with 2 guys from London (that faraway place belonging to a different life). We also found a real old boy's cafe that looked like it hadn't changed for the best part of this century. It brought back good memories of cafes we patronised in Paris and Italy. Between sneezes I'm looking forward to tonight. We have tickets for the ballet!!! (National Cultural ballet) so should be good. (Bit different here though, as the tickets cost us 3 Pounds for the 2 of us!)

La Paz, BOLIVIA, 9th July

Caught the 8am bus to La Paz over in Bolivia. Waiting for the bus, Simon brought me over a mug of coffee and a saucer from the cafe across the road, and I sipped and took in the lovely hazy morning light. Found out on the bus that some people had paid more than double what we had! The ride was wonderful, as the route followed the shore of Lake Titicaca. The land to the water's edge was like Dulux's palatte of natural colors, ranging from deep wheat to salmon brown - all enhanced by the wonderful light quality that saturates everything. The sun on the lake gave the appearance that it was covered with millions of glitter dressed fairies dancing on the surface. In it was also reflected the imposing mountain backdrop, where ,mountains didn't have snow 'caps' but full white overcoats! Really wished we could have spent some time exploring this area like we planned- but there is too much unrest, protests and road blocks, that it is not only unwise, but impossible. On our way into Bolivia we passed many groups of military police camped out on the roadside to try and keep the Campasinos' protests at bay. Eventually arrived in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world. The road in was quite a shock as the huge urban city spilled out (was crammed out) infront of us. Looked like a city for insects. Down the long, narrow and steep roads we found more people than I'd ever seen anywhere. It was chocablock - a swarming ant colony of small brown people. (The Indians here were less woolen clothes and more silky, shiny fabrics - but in the same designs, and of course with the obligitory mini bowler hat). Exploring the city shoulder to shoulder with everyone else we descovered lots of lovely, grand and faded buildings, 'toy' soldiers dressed in red and beige uniforms lowering the national flag (military police told us to stand!), 'real' shops like down Oxford Street as well as street vendors selling everything from sweets to dried Llama foetuses! The strangest thing here is the amount of military presence - nearly every corner and street being lined with combat clothed police with riot shields, sub & automatic machine guns and what look like handgranades, but probably tear gas/pepper spray. Makes you feel a bit odd. After saying that, the city has a good atmosphere and the people seem nice enough. Later that night we sat in a restaurant (after a long search for somewhere to sit and people watch - nowhere!) chatted about our new home and sampled the new country's beers.

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 8th July

Just another lazy Sunday! Sat in the square and watched a huge military parade (happens every Sunday) Weather been nice today and spent much time making the most of it, and chewing on our Cocoa leaves. Bought a bus ticket for La Paz; the Bolivian Capital for tomorrow morning. We really wanted to go to Copacabana (on Lake TCC, Bolivian side), and also visit the Island of Sun and Island of Moon, where the Inca Gods were born; but there are road blocks and strikes and it's impossible to get through. Been like it a while, but thought they might end soon - but looks like it will go on for another 10 days at least. Never mind - onto La Paz instead. Well this is the last day in Peru. It's been a shocking, and suprising country (from the dry depressing desert towns of the north, to the happy party indians on the island of Amantani, Lake TCC). Just hoping that in Bolivia they don't have the grating mock Japaneese wailing opretta music!

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 7th July

Happy 30th birthday Sascha! Been quite tired today so we took it easy, had a long lunch, went to the post office and sent off lots of postcards and then here to catch up on the internet. Nothing more to write as of yet, but just want you all to know how perfectly happy Simon and I are. Bliss.

Taquille Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru Fri 6th July

Nice sleep and up early. Toilet at the end of the plot & went to stream with canisters to fill with water to flush it with. Quick splash of freezing sream on face for a wash and upto room for breakfast. It had rained in the morning, but to no effect on the dry harsh land. We said goodbye & thankyou to the old mother & gave her bananas & toffees, which she took smiling shyly, unable to look in our eyes (not the case last night when the old dear got me up to dance & was spinning me around!) Off Simon & I trotted down to the harbour accompanied by Olga, where there were already a crowd of gringos and tiny human spinning wheels waiting. Off we sailed leaving the lovely crazy, unique island & the time we'd had there behind us.
One hour later we pulled into Taquille, another island. Great hour walk to the other side of the island (also remanisant of Greece/Crete) to the main plaza - an arch, a church & a few mud brick buildings. Brief rundown of the island, then Simon & I went off to explore, while the group went off for lunch in a restaurant. We sat on a terrace overlooking Lake TCC with a cute but vocal cow for company as we ate the sandwiches we made this morning. Walking around the island, the woman wear clothes almost identical to Amantani, but here all the men wear trad clothes too. Black trousers, white long puff sleeved shirts, black and white bolero waistcoats, broad waistbands and long floppy knitted hats. married men wear all red hats, full of pattern, while single men wear hats only half red & patterned; the top half being white ( my theory is the white represents the poor blank pages the men are before they have a wife!) The strangest thing about this island is that all the men walk around knitting! They knit the hats that they wear using 5 needles. They are very fast and skillful - designs tight & elaborate. After 4 hours and down the 500+ steps down the other side of the island we sailed off the 3 hours home. There was a drizzle of rain creating a magical rainbow. Pulled into Puno feeling we'd been away 4 days not overnight. What a great and unique & unforgettable time we've had on Lake TCC (Michael Palin eat your heart out!)

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 4 - Thurs 5th July

A long hall with one oil lamp and at each end a Peruvian band, one dressed in green ponchos, the other in red. The place was crammed with as many (if not more) locals as tourists (some of which were also dressed in Trad clothes - but still with their trousers and such - not properly) As soon as we entered Olga dragged Simon onto the dance floor. What mad dancing! Holding hands face to face and pulling and twisting each other manically for the whole song (which lasted an exhausting 15 mins) You got a ongood 'swish' the skirts. They also had dances like a 'Farandel' ?- like a big Hokey Cokey but running round in the circle whipping people around the corners (more like a playground game than a dance) All the locals were totally up for dancing and threw themselves into it ( this happens every night?!) It was bizzare but so much fun and I couldn't stop laughing from the pure pleasure and absurdity of it all. What a party. I danced with young boys, teenage girls and old ladies. Truely mad and brilliant. Simon asked a middle aged woman to dance, and she seemed less manic in her twists, till the bundle on her back fell open to reveal a sleeping 10 month old baby in there. No wonder! But she enjoyed herself. We carried on till exhausted, found Olga's sister and wlked back with Olga reluctantly dragging her heels behind. ( also descovered the other couple staying there weren't even asked to wear the trad dress!) The walk back didn't need a torch as the full moon lit our way beautifully. (earlier we saw what we thought was the setting sun; a bright baleesha beakon large, low and increadable in the sky -even though it was late. It was puzzling and mesmerizing. Now realised that it was the moon!) Slipped between the blankets still shell shocked at what we'd just experienced. What a weird and wonderful day with these crazy people!

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 3 - Thurs 5th July

All met at the community house and the relevant guides led their groups off up the hill to visit ruins. As we waited for ours the hosts stood gossiping and spinning, gringos exchanged stories of families, rooms and food and 5 small boys played panpipes and drums with gusto. Two smaller boys danced around arm in arm, one with his trousers revieling half of his little bot and little girls ran around in their unique headgear - a very long stripy knitted Santa Claus hat with big frills flopping around their tiny nut brown faces. The 4 o'clock light was lovely, strong and long. The hike was hard on the lungs. At the top the ruins were ok, but the views better, despite too many clouds for a good sunset. It was freezing and starting to get dark when we descended and found Olga had been waiting for us 2 hours at the bottom. Back at the house we were brought dinner (cooked by her mother), which again was nice. (Gave the family bread after lunch and a bag of biscuits after dinner). Then Olga and her mother came into our candle lit room with armfuls of their traditional clothes. We got the wrong end of the stick as we thought they were trying to sell them to us (we have just come from Cusco where everyone is on the make!) They insisted it was for the dance tonight and wanted us to wear them - no fee, no catch?! We weren't up for it before thinking it would be sad, with a few gringos etc, but they were so insistant and seemed so earnest that I said 'Why not!' Simon left the room and I undressed and the 2 of them began to dress me. It was quite a ritual - almost like a wedding or something. I really enjoyed the female bond of it. It was a task with 4 tiered skirts of contrasting colours and very full (the first which was knitted) - blouse, long thick woven waistbands, braided hair and headdress. I was ready and felt great. (Simon had on Poncho and colourful Chullah hat) We all trudged off to the community house (skirts increadably warm) wandering what on earth was in store for us.... nothing could have prepared us for the reality!!

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 2- Thurs 5th July

Arrived in the small harbour of Amantani to lots of traditionally dressed women (and a few men) gathered around waiting for us. The tourists filed off the boat looking like lambs to the slaughter, wondering what sort of family (and experience) they were in store for. Walked to a clearing ( a breathless 4200metres above sea). All the gringos stood in a group, with the villagers stood behind (women in layers of bright green, red, orange full skirts, thick white embroidered blouses and long black head shawls with embroidered bottoms.) They all spun coloured wool onto handheld bobins/reels while gossiping shyly between themselves with the look of pubesant girls infront of a boys football team. The guide called out names of gringos and they stepped forward, then the name of the family they'd be staying with (no hotels on this island), which then relayed through the women till it came to the nameholder, who then ran down giggling, wrapping her headscarf across her sweetly embarrassed face - all the time still spinning. One by one we were paired and lead off up the hillside to our home for the night. Our host was Olga, a young girl, and between breaths exchanged pleasantries and info to break the ice (luckily she understood Spanish aswell as Quechua). Long steep hill up the lovely scenic island passing sheep, islanders, terraces of hard, dry, stoney earth and at last over a small sream to the casa. (all houses made of the dry mud bricks - but ours was part painted blue- no electricity or water.) we were up stairs (another couple in the room next door) and the family lived downstairs boxed within a wall to keep out the wind. Small and neat. Outside were piles of corn by-product drying out in small piramids along side of tiny potatoes. (here they have over 100 varieties, all small and strange, and take a day of boiling before they are edible) Settled down and admired our surroundings, which were very scenic, but looked more like a Greek island, than an island in Lake TCC.Then we were brought lunch (on the boat we were told that the island was veggie - we couldn't believe it, we'd brought more food than luggage!) Food was yum then Olga opened the tiny door which reached our shoulders (no knocking or locks here) and said 'Vamos!' - so off we went.

F

Floating Islands of Uros then Island Amantani, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 1- Thurs 5th July

8.30 to open open backed boat on the famous lake.Sat in cold with harsh sun listening to our guide Edwin explain all about the lake, it's history and the various islands. In 1 hour we reached Uros. This is one of 50 floating islands in the lake. Underfoot it was springy and felt like you were walking on a 'bouncy castle'. Felt like you could easily put your foot through. There were great boats made from reeds with Puma heads on the front like Viking ships ( though the puma heads looked more like Teddy Bears to me - oh, it´s because Lake Tcc means Puma Stone). It takes them one month to make them and they last about 1 year before rotting away. The Island which is made entirely from reeds rots away from the bottom and every 5 month they add a couple of feet of reeds to the top layer (lifting the light reed houses to place the reeds under them). The women really try and push you tp buy the goods that they have made (which are very good, but you know how it goes) We exchanged apples for photographs and Simon had a coulpe of old dears who were onto him - such charm! Was weird to see someone cooking with an open fire, but suppose there is plenty of water around should it get out of hand! Spent an hour there (island are only small, about 7 to 10 families on each one) and 10 minutes at the next. How do they survive in such a small restricted place? Totally odd experience, unlike anywhere else in the world. Back in the boat we headed on to a real (natural) island called Amantani. 3 hours on the lake which is so vast that can't see all of it. It's more like an eerie still sea. Deep and glassy, sometimes looking like ice foes and double the depth of blue that the sky was. Lake TCC was less impressive than the initial hit I got from Lake Atitlan in Guatamala (which is a tight package of wonder for the eyes) - here it's too vast for that initial wow, but travelling over it, it has it's own unique beauty.

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 4th July.

Wandered around today getting info from various agencies, and got a great deal ( those good old student cards again!) Had good food before hitting the market where we bought myself some wool knitted longjohns for those nippy nights, and gloves and Peruvian Chullah (pointy hat with earflaps ...you know the type) in Alpaca from a woman who was sat there knitting them. (I like my money to direct). Had a walk to the lake.. not exactly scenic from this side - nothing spesh, but sat and had a long and interesting talk to a young student of Tourism. Gave him lots to think about, and he was quite refreshing. Back to market for food for the trip and the next 2 days (who knows what food will be provided), then relaxed in room, read and packed day pack to take with us for the next 2 days. ... Oh by the way; Happy 4th July to all our American buddies!

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 3rd July

Bus absolutely freezing as it gets about -7 here at night. Arrived in Puna 5am and decide not to judge it till morninglight and rest. Got straight into bed with all my clothes on and slept for 3 hours. Doenstairs there was an agency adjoining the hotel and decided to take a trip with them to the nearby ruins later in the afternoon. We went and sat in the square in the blazing sun (luckily having covered my already red face with SPF 25) and relaxed a while before having lunch. Picked up at the hotel and driven through amazing countryside (Altiplano) - gentle stretches of yellow wheat before deeply shadowed mountains. Ruins were by a lake (not Titicaca) and the sun shone down on it giving it the appearance of blue crystal. This is Sillustani, where there are Incan and pre-Incan funeral towers of 12metres high. Guide was great and told us all about different tribes, languages and mainly how they built the towers and how they outside represents phalic man and inside is a womb (phalic woman) where the Mumified bodies of the Inca, his wife,a child, close servants and his favourite guinea pig were placed with potttery, jewelry etc. They were mumified in a foetal possision so they could be reborn. The towers had to be finished in 9 months and the small opening faced the east so that the first rays of Father Sun shone in to awake them to their new life. Loads more fascinating stories aswell as the beautiful, peaceful scenery. Didn't see any of the wild guinea pigs, but was a man playing the pan pipes and small guitar and it sounded perfect up there with the hills, lake and 4000metres altitude. On the journey back the Earth looked like it had a rainbow wrapped around it's waist, with bands of colour blending up from the horizon. Wonderful day.

Cuzco, Peru 2nd July

Neither of us slept much last night, but don't feel that bad today because of it. Went and did a little time catching up on these blogs, then had a wander around a museum, sat in the square and ate our sandwiches and bought a load of reminder post cards. Tried several times to phone Simons parents but without any luck. Back to carry on with blogs. Later we're catching the 10pm bus to Puno by Lake Titicaka - oh how am I goung to cope with the altitude? Enjoyed the Cuzco area (shame about Arequipa, we would like to have seen Cola Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world, but the earthquake wouldn't let it be) So, join me soon for the continuing saga of a couple of Gringos in a magical land.

Cuzco, Peru Sunday 1st July

Pinch, punch, 1st of the month! Cocoa tea in the garden, with lovely light and 8.30am sunshine. Down to town and saw a military parade for the 1st of july. A Deaf man came up to us and we started chatting. Then we moved to the middle of the square where there was a whole group of Deaf people. It was like meeting long lost family (such is the friendliness of Deaf). It was great. Haven't signed for so long, but soon got into it. Supprised how well we could communicate bearing in mind they use ASL and I use BSL. Was good excersise for the old grey matter, as when I lipspoke (to accompany the signs) I had to do so in Spanish! Chatted ages about what it's like in their country (lots of campaining for rights like in Britain), about our private lives and what's been happening in Peru. Poor old Simon was waiting for 1.5 hours while I enjoyed my encounter and swopped email addresses. Anyway at last moved on and got tickets to Puno tommorrow and then the bus to Pisac. Lovely drive up with the snow covered mountains playing peek-a-boo. Got straight in a cab to the ruins (legs still extremely sore - didn't fancy 2 hour hard uphill treck) Spent the next 2.5 hour 'walking' around the various ruins that are spread out along the steep winding valley. It used to be used as a communication system; calling to each other by horn and passing messages right the way down the valley. Was a wearing 'walk'. Walked all the way down to the village, which was a great walk actually; climbing down wheat filled terraces and across mud bridges. In the village we found a bakery which had a little guinea pig house ( I goggled: Simon drank Coke). In the main sqaure which was a full on market, I spotted a balcony which we went and sat on to people watch and take unobtrusive photos. Bus back was a squash, but had such an amazing sky - swirls of dark blues on one side, and a shrimp blue colour on the other. I thought to myself "How am I ever going to remember everything I've seen? It's all so great, I don't want to forget a single thing!" Back at the hotel (decided to skip the fiesta that was going on down by the train station) Simon and talked about all the usual things. I'm so very happy in a very deep and real way.

Cuzco, Peru, 30th June

Got plenty of sleep I'm glad to say, but spent the day blasted anyway. Our legs are killing us and trying to walk down the street is like a portfolio for the Ministry of Funny Walks! Spent the day sight seeing the city in a haze. Cathedral; stunning, huge and covered top to bottom in gold and silver robbed from the Incas. Saw Inca museums with pottery, weavings - everything, even spooky 'Scream' Munsch mummies. Horrid. Giant paintings (lots of 'Lord of the Earthquakes' - Jesus on the cross wearing what looks like a net curtain for a skirt. Apparently there was a quake and they paraded Jesus on the cross afterwards, and there wasn't another so it was a miricle!) All interesting but were worn out by 2pm. Had lunch then headed down to the market to stock up on food for the next 2 days. Had a new fruit which was a completely new taste: soft and lychee-like sacks around sour pips. Really nice. Sat in garden of hotel, caught up with diaries and chatted till it was too cold for anything than going to bed. (by the way, bed these days is usually between 7.30 and 8.30pm.... can you believe it!?

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) -part 2- Friday 29th June

We found a rock each and sat and stared till our eyes hurt. My stomache was knotted around my heart and in my mouth for about the first half an hour, but then I adjusted and let the wonders seep into me, and I felt increadably at home and relaxed...my spirit as full and satisfied as it's ever been. We were literally on top of the world! What a feeling that gives you - undescribable and unforgetable. Stayed there 3 or 4 hours? (time, space and dimention up there is not what it seems, or what you know it to be). Thinking off it now stirs something deep inside me - anyone who hasn't experienced it will never comprehend. In trying to describe it more (as I have no way done it justice) I can only say that there are millions of words and orders to arrange those words, but trying to do so I am aware of how corse and unrifined language is - mortal speech being far too rough for the wonders I have seen.At last we reluctantly made our way down; was dreading it as it had been major heebie jeebies on the way up - but was ok - well at least till we visited the house which was a little further down and around to the side and descended it's steps. Ooohhh mama! Steps not big enough to fit a sideways foot on, the steps angles up making it even trickier, so steep and nothing to hold onto or help you. It was practically a sheer drop. I nearly had a little acident in the trouser departement! At one point I could easily have 'lost it' - but there is no way you want to freak or loose your bottle there - so managed to get through it. Stopped and drew a picture, but the scale was up the spout. Once down there was more exploring and finally headed back after being there 7 hours. Decided to take the route down the little takes. Was a nice walk - hard work (and no, we didn't run!) Took us about an hour to get all the way back to town. Sat in the square again with e rewarding bottle of Coke, where we were joined by 3 little girls (4 going on 40) having a right mothers meeting - it was very funny and sweet. At the train station we bumped into Jasper from Latvia (who we'd met up on the plateau this morning) Had a laugh with him as we waited for our delayed train back to Cuzco. The train was freezing cold and we were beyond shattered. It was pitch black with only the stars and moonlight which gave everything a covering like snow. What a time we've had. Crikey!

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) -part 1- Friday 29th June

Up at 5.30 and aahhh what a lovely suprise - a hot shower, yum. Caught 6.30 bus upto the ruins and were there for the glorious early morning light, and the place practically to ourselves. Headed straight for the sharp mountain that you see behind the ruins - 'Huayan Picchu'. (Yesterday we were looking at it through our binoculars and couldn't believe that there were terraces and even a house perched right on the edge at the top..how?... you could bearly see it though. Simon thought that he could see tiny figures on the very top, but I couldn't believe it - seemed impossible, and thought they were trees.Later found out that you could climb it.... so we had to do it.) Well it was one hell of a climb - steep is not the word. Sometimes there were ropes to help you, but attatched to the mountainside, so you always had the drop exposed. It was more than trippy. Quite often you had to just concentrate on the steep tall steps carved from out of the rock - to stop you from acidentally seeing the drop down, or rather out to the side where it goes on forever. Can't describe the effect the mountains have on you here, it's not just the few thousand feet drop, but the whole scale of it. Anyway, after several heart attacks and lung collapses later we reached the top - a small plateau of one of the terraces. Wow! The last 10 mins of climb, 2 dogs accompanied us for moral support, and now at the top they dozed right on the very edge. Took our time to take it in and adjust, thought it was fantastic, and then Simon spotted that you could get even higher. We got right to the very top of the mountain - there were half a dozen large boulders.... and we stood on them; making us gods and giants. Woowww! Blow the top of your head off! 360° view. So so fantastic.

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) Part 2 Thurs 28th June

There it was lying before us, the famous view that we all know and want to see. Actually, none of it seened quite real. It is spectacular, tremendous, stunning, awe inspiring, spiritual, unbelievable, incredulous, breathtaking and a million other words that neither can describe it or do it justice....but all the same, it doesn't quite sink in.The mountains surrounding it are out of this world and make it what it is. The shape and height, colour and intensity - so, so towering and all around you. Makes you feel like you could fall off into the world, and never hit bottom. We climbed up to the Caretakers House (on the near hill where they used to mummify the Incas) and sat and looked, trying to take in the houses, temples, hundreds of terraces carved down the hillside and the domineering mountains. We sat and sat and sat. Eyes adjusting to the distance and depth. We were there hardly talking, just looking and 2 hours had gone by.Passing a few llamas we went down to the ancient city and began to look around; half in a daze... stunned I guess. It was so hot, but the sun made beautiful dark shadows along the walls and in the grooves of the mountains and making the snow-caps shine like silver.Impressive masonary,prison, housing and irrigation systems down to the terraces and waterways running through the streets. 4.30pm we were blasted and decided to go back and try and let it sink in - returning early for a full day tommorrow. The bus back down had a little boy (9-ish) dressed in Inca clothes stood by it and when the bus leaves...so does he, but he runs down the steep hillside to beat the bus at each curve, where he stands and hand signals, calling Inca words. He did this all the way to the bottom, not only doing it, but doing it properly, loud, strong and with much pride.That evening I wasn't hungry; just wanted a beer (Simon's eyes lit up when I told him this). We found a local bar by the train tracks that served only large bottles of beer from the crate, and sat outside and relaxed. A few tourists scurried by looking nervous and out of place. Inside the bar 2 drunk men were being jeered at (or was it flirting?) by 3 half sozzled indian women. Toilet was French-style and the woman threw in a bucket of water when you finished.Si and I had a great night chatting and letting everything slowly sink in. I love our time together (and the things we see together) 24/7 is never enough. Looking forward to tommorrow.

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) Part 1 Thurs 28th June

Caught 7.30 train (old coal). Cringed to be surrounded by a lot of loudmouthed immature Americans, luckily our saving grace were 2 old Peruvians that were sat opposite us. We got chatting - they're going to MP as a treat for the old boy's retirement. Really enjoyed chatting to them and we all had a good laugh. The ride was lovely with beautiful snow-capped mountains, rolling hills of gentle colours and much to feast our eyes on. It took us quite a long time to leave Cusco as the train had to make many switchbacks and zig-zag up the hillside as it is so steep, but it afforded us plenty of time for the great views of the city. At last arrived in Aguas Callienties, the closest town to MP. (the stop before loads of people pilled off the train - there were about 50 people all stood on the side of the tracks ready to do the half Inca treck. Thank goodness we'd decided against it - it would have been a nightmare!) So, Aguas C is a little town with a sweet character; the train tracks running straight through it's centre. Got hotel and had a coke in the square waiting for the next bus up to the ruins. There was an odd iron sculpture; oblong, with a bird escaping from it. An old well used church, a few benches, lots of childern, ice-cream sellers, woman cooking fried chicken with whole potatoes from make-shift stoves on the street, and plenty of dogs hanging around. Bus up to ruins $9 for two, one way! They have whacked the prices up on everything. I'm quite nervous on the way up because I don't want it to be a disapointment - and in the back of my mind I think it will be (too much hype/expectation etc) Winding steep road to ruins took half an hour. Then entrance to sight (suprise suprise!) had gone up too - $20 for one person ( don't know how we managed it, but both of us got 50% discount using our Student Cards ... I know, I know!) Then, at last , the moment we've all been waiting for... We walked into the famous ancient city of the Incas. Machu Picchu.

Cusco, Peru 27th June

Not much sleep last night. Kept thinking there were earth tremours. At last descovered that it wasn't the ground that was shaking, but me (not from the cold, but my heart!... it's hard work this altitude business) I wonder if I go into a kind of hybernation, because whenever I wake up in the morning I'm breathing like I've just run up a flight of stairs - feels like I haven't breathed all night. Anyway, soon
felt better after breakfast of Simon's homemade cheese and advacado sandwiches (advacadoes here are like shot putts) Spent the morning sorting stuff; getting train ticket for Machu Picchu, bus info for Puna and getting a tourist card for the local sights. Shattered.. can't believe we're going higher. At last off to the ruins at Sacsayhuama, just out of town (Inca built to be the head of the Jaguar that the city is in the shape of - with 3 tiered zig-zag walls that are the jaguar's teeth) Great views of Cusco/Cuzco/Qus'qo. Huge stone walls, perfectly fitting together. We relaxed and enjoyed the sights. On the way down a couple of women were heading back with a herd of Llamas, so snapped a couple of shots. Packed for tommorrow, blogger and dinner on the balcony over looking the square. Antisipation of tomorrow.

Cusco, Peru 26th June

Must have really needed the sleep because we slept for about 11 hours! Out having breakfast by 9, then an hour of emailing before spending the day chasing our tails over various things. Called mum and dad - it's good to talk! Sent some postcards. Went to train station to find time/info etc for the local train to Machu Picchu tommorrow. Closed and guard totally unhelpful, so had to trek to the other side of town to the other train station. There we were told that we couldn't catch the local train ($5) but only the tourist train ($30!) We were very knarked (and didn't believe her). Decided to take our chances in the morning. By this time we were both quite tetchy. The altitude has a bad effect on you (sore eyes,dry mouth,can'y breathe properly, short patience and everything seems so dificult and so much work.) Had food, but wasn't terribly nice. I didn't mind it too much (warm, plenty and vitamins/carbohydrates) but I could tell Simon was really struggling, bless. Then we sat in the square and wound down. Started to laugh and get back to ourselves. Back at the hotel we asked if we could leave our packs with them for one night and then return for 3 more days (was fine) but also found out that there is no way we can catch the local train as it is now only for poeple living at Agua Calientes ( by Machu Picchu) and there is no option but to get the tourist train (as some American has bought the company, changed the rules and upped the prices!! Thanks!) Annoyed again .- there goes the budget! Today has been a bit of a mess and frustrating. We took it as a sign that we are rushing into things when we're not ready. Decided to buy the tickets tomorrow and go the next day (maybe we'll be better aclimatised anyway) Ended the day having a rewarding beer on the balcony at the hotel, then reading 'South' in bed by snuggly candlight.

Cuzco, Peru Mon 25th June

Went through the night (about 10hrs) without any toilet stops. Guess there just wasn't anywhere... Andies etc! Eventually stopped, did the necessaries and also had breakfast. Now that we are really high,the landscape has turned from barren to lush again. The houses are all made of mud bricks with tiled roofs. Freezing during night but then scorching once the sun had come up. Extremes. Cracking views...bigger and better and lots of snow-capped mountains. Was glad to arrive in Cusco as I'd just about had enough - been a rough couple of days. It's really big. All buildings the same style and colour stone and have Venician style decorative balconies and arched waqlkways under. Really pretty. Got in cab to hotel (luckily there was a room- been a huge sun festival so thought it would be full) First thing we did was to have a cup of cocoa leaf tea (supposed to help with altitude). Then a walk around the steep cobbled streets and found a charming little place where we ate dinner on a balcony over-looking the main square with cathedral, church, fountain, pretty picturesque buildings around, the replica of the Rio Jesus statue lit on the hill all under an amazing 'Turner' sky. Feel overtired, but secure and glad to be here.

Huacachina, Ica PERU Sat 24rd June

Bed at 8.30pm but awake again at 9 due to unbelievably loud music from a wedding party at the hotel, which went on until 5am!!Few hours sleepin the morning but vivid dreams and a headache. Sat by the oasis and had lunch. Simon complained to the hotel owner and got some money back. Then off to Ica with the packs and did some internetting. Si went off to get our tickets to Arequipa,but returned looking rather pale, and put a newspaper infront of me. It was my turn to go pale as I saw the headline and frontpage photos. There had been an earthquake yesterday in Arequipa... 30people dead (now 55) over 300 hospitalised and 80% of houses destroyed. The photos were horific. It was very scarey. If we hadn't spent the extra day in Vilcabamba, or if the internet wasn't so cheap here that we decided to stay an extra day... then we would be there, and..? Can't even think about it. We felt the tremours yesterday - like a bumpy, jostling bus and it was very frightening, but had no idea of the destruction that was taking place at our next destination. The firghtening thing is that no matter how careful or sensible you are, there are some things that you just have no control over. Wrong place at the wrong time sort of thing. We emailed family etc to let them know that we were ok, even though we knew that the news hadn't broken yet. Then a change of plans. We're going to Cuzco. 17hours. Bus should have arrived at 8.30, but was 10pm when we actually got underway. Felt tired and shell shocked and just wanted to crawl under some covers and be somewhere nice, calm and safe. Instead I had a nightmare of a journey that just nearly tipped me over the edge. It was pitch black and we were crossing the Andies. It was so steep, and the bends were hairpin and unbelievabley tight - you couldn't see any extra road at the side as you turned the corners.. it was like we were hanging over the edge on each bend. I was petrified. To make my nerves just that extra bit shreaded the driver played this loud bizarre music, like a Spanish translated Japaneese opretta. Much screeching, screaming and high pitched hysterical laughter. It was harrowing!

Huacachina, Ica PERU Sat 23rd June

On first view this morning I now know that I am indeed in the Twighlight Zone! This place is in the middle of giant sand dunes - miles of the things, and the oasis is a small lake surrounded by palm trees and 2 faded pre-war hotels. Quite sweat in a strange way. Guess I'm not adjusted to Peru yet! Went to Ica for money, a wander around and a delicious ice-cream. Caught one of the weird 3 wheel bubble cabs back to the oasis and rented 2 sand boards. Oh my god!!! The sand dunes are STEEP and you can only take about 8 steps before you have to stop due to exhaustion. What hard work. (I did a couple of trial runs at the bottom to practice standing up and movement and weight balance etc) before the long climb to the top. Didn't think my heart would make it - but it did. Eventually when we reached the top we were litterally on a crest of sand - the ridge of the dune. The views were stunning and strange and weird and exhillorating and spine-tingely and unimaginable. Wow! After a long rest and taking in this obscure and foreign landscape we made our decent. Like real pros. You can get really fast, so we had to stop ourselves a couple of times to get the speed down. What a rush. I never thought I would have the nerve to do it, but I did and it was fantastic - a real high. The rest of the evening I was trying to calm down as I had so much adrenalin pumpimg around me. Great. Sat by the oasis eating dinner and still buzzing.

Journey to Huacachina PERU thurs 21st -22nd June

Basically we spent the next 36 hours travelling on 3 busses to Peru. Will keep it short as the whole thing seems to have blurred into one. Peru...what do I think? So far it's been nothing but a barren wasteland. Sky void of colour as a year-round mist shrouds the land, which is in turn as dead as could be. Its flat with desert as far as the eye can see. You could describe it as dull, drab, grim... but I think utterly depressing is more fitting! Give me back Ecuador! Managed to sleep whenever I needed it, and the pysical journey was fine...just don't look out of the window. The best thing I've enjoyed about Peru so far has been the movie that they played on the bus..Charlies Angels!? The houses that are along the way- just plopped in the middle ogf this barren landscape- are dull one-story squallors, made from the sand floor or from woven mats. They look like cities from another planet, or from a film of Earth after the holocaust..I kept expecting to see mutants walking around. Oh, and we'll not talk about LIma - urgh! At last arrived at Ica, but still seemed a little much to cope with so we pushed on 20 min more to Huacachina, an oasis in the sand dunes. It's dark so I'll reserve my judgement till the morning light. Strange, I thoght I was coming to Peru, but somehow I've ended up in the Twighlight Zone!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 20th June

You'll be glad to hear that we finally got out of the hammocks today. Went into town and sat and had hot chocolates. THen went to the local zoo. Sweat little place with large enclosures and happy animals. Was a bear eating corn off the cob- funny to watch. Also lovely Pumas; the male trying his hardest to have his way with the female...who wasn't having any of it, and protested loudly. We were real close and was interesting to see all the neck biting, growling, plying etc that took place between the two of them (sorry for the lack of privicy Pumas!) Then walk back to town the long way round to take in the best views. Donkeys loaded up with ballast from the river finding their own way home passed infront of us with a slow clip clop. In town tried to fix our journey for tommorrow with lots of toing and froing and blar blar blar. Back at the cabin we settled into our last night in Vilcabamba abd indeed Ecuador. Loved both and feel reluctant and sad to move on. Sure we'll come back one day, but as for now, we know that there are pleanty of other things to see and do out there...so on we go.

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 19th June

Upto shops for more goodies only to descover on my return that someone had eaten/taken quite a bit of our food. Whats wrong with people? Cooked breakfast for Simon (he's been so good looking after me, and I feel completly recovered now). Sorry, not much to write about as we spent the day relaxing and not doing much.Later though we did have our very own tournament of 'Blockbusters' We made the board and had an ingenious way of making up questions. Was realy good (though I'm sure Simon only played it to make up for us playing Canaster last night - not a big fan) but it was all fun anyway. Both sad to leave tommorrow...so we decided to stay another day!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador Mon 18th June

Feel so much better today, however, still spent the morning in the hammock finishing my book; Steven King's Needful Things. Had a really enjoyable day watching the butterflies chasing each other, listening to the sound of the stream and laughing at Simon's impromptu traditional Panamanic dance wearing the upturned brimmed hat from off the cabin wall. Later we had a walk down the valley. AAhh, pure air and calm, inspiring views all cradled in a loving protecting valley where the strong and golden sun dances through the clouds to enrich the sights. We just stood and looked at the beauty; it makes your insides drop and lowers your heart rate to give you same feeling as just before you doze off into a lovely deep and dreamy sleep - but you are deffinately awake because you feel so alive. Came back and climbed to the top of the hill to watch the sunset. Tonight it had an opponant, a rival for beauty: a perfect bright rainbow on the opposite side of the sky. We sat snuggled together, wide eyed and at complete peace. That night in bad we were visited by a flock of fireflies. They were really big and divebombed us from all directions. It was like a laser show - it was a bit creepy. Then I flashed my watch light at them and they stopped in their tracks... they must have thought I was the biggest Firefly in the world!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 17th June

Si was up and off to the grocery shop before I was up, and returned with a bag of goodies for the next few days. Basically, I spent the whole day relaxing in the hammock and trying to get better. Feel nice and relaxed at least!

Vilcabamba, Loja, Ecuador 16th June

Wasn't looking forward to the 8 hour journey as I was quite under the weather with this cold. We got Eddie the KId for our bus driver though, and soon passed the bus that departed an hour before us. Vilcabamba is just the place for me to rest up and get well again. It's a beautiful little town with a lush green square and 3 tiered fountain infront of a cool coloured pristine church, nestled in a Summery valley; fresh and calm. The town is famous because it's residents live to be over 100 years old. Already I can see why. We are staying in a white stone cabin with log roof about 20mins walk out of town, on the slope of the hillside. It's covered in long thin trees, with the mountains beyond and a small singing stream that winds around the cabin and down the hillside. It's a spacious cabin with a large balcony/decking with table and two hammocks. What more could you want? (there is also a kitchen 3mins away under the next cabin) Settled straight into a hammock for the rest of the day, to relax and watch hundreds of varieties of butterflies flutter by, catching the light as it filters through the trees. Bliss. Later we go down to the house and have a lovely meal made by the French couple that own the cabins. Feel quite ill, but glad to be here.

Cuenca, Ecuador 15th June

Turned into a stinking old cold (but better than having it in England at work!) Won't mension how great the scenery was (it was) coz it must be getting so tedious for you.Cuenca is a great town. Quite large with old architecture crossed between Savannah, US and Granada, Nicuragua. Large fruit markets, grand churches and picturesque river running through it. Feel worn out coz of the cold though, and it feel quite weird to be in a city again. That's all for now, not sure if we'll stay here another night ormove on tomorrow to somewhere quieter.(we're becoming real hermits aren't we!)

Ingripirca (ruins) Ecuador 14th June

Beatiful bus ride in which the hairs on the back of my neck stood up on end. Higher and higher till we were passed the clouds and looking down on the mountain tops and the cloud below that. Feel like I'm balanced on top of the world. What a feeling! Would have liked the journey to be longer, but only 3 breathtaking hours. About half an hour before we got to Ingripirca over 30 indians piled onto the bus and packed it out.Their colours were even wilder, they wore detailed jewelry and the sweatest little white bowler hats with 2 pompomsdangling at the front (which Simon thought were to show which weren't married yet and still available!) 10 mins later the road was blocked by a truck which had a steamroller trying to drive down a steep bank onto it's back. There was much hillarity on the bus and the whole situation was crazy (I had an Indian girl sat on my knee due to lack of space) after much toing and froing we were on our way, and all the indians piled off at Ingripirca the same as us. This is a small, one hotel town and very friendly. We had only just arrived and the whole of the cafe were in conversation with us (Simon being his usual tease and having them on that he knew their Indian language!) Next the ruins, litterally 10mins down the road on the neighbouring hillside in full view of the village.It was empty, except for a few sheep and llama and a couple of women collecting grasses.There were great views practically 360*. Fab to be out in the fresh air and we took our time to walk around and take it in. On the Sun temple I could really understand why they worshiped it. Back in the town the Indians had been having a festival and dressed in their best clothesthey came walking down the hill banging a bass drum and scratching on an old fiddle as they carried a staff similar to in Guatamala, with a sort of Sun symbol on it. Then they all dispersed, went to the shop, ate barbequed pigs head, gossiped or went home. It was great. Had dinner of rice, chips and cold lentils and realised that my eyes and nose hadn't been hurting coz of altitude, but because I'd gotten a cold! If you believe in the pleasure / pain theory, then I don't mind the pain, if this pleasure is the pay-off. Saw the end of the sunset, where the bottom of the clouds were burnt deep red and in the crook of the valley hung solid white clouds with a dark blue mountain peak potruding. Beautiful.

Alausi (after the Devil's Nose ) wed 13th June

Went back the short way to Alausi to stay the night (all the other Gringos continued travelling - we wanted to make the most of what we'd seen and let it sink in). Outside the local bank, about 50/60 raditional Indians all queued up. There wasa multi coloured assortment of layered skirts with embriodered bands around the edge, shocking pink on electric blue, over blood red with vivid green.Shawls and socks contrasted with the skirts, babies on backs and porkpie hats. The place was buzzing. If you saw a photo of it, it wouldn't look real (like two different times and places in history stuck together). We found out that they waiting for their monthly handout of state benifit. Didn't realise the government subsidised them - it's good. They have such a tough life. Small houses on the sides of steep mountains, with no water, electricity or heating; working the land to provide food to eat and maybe a bit to sell. Had an early night as we were worn out, watching the setting sun reflect off the mountain outside our window with sleepy eyes.

Alausi and The Devil's Nose. Ecuador, wed 13th June

The reason we were in Riobamba was so we could take the famous train ride down to Alausi and The Devil's Nose (known for it's spectacular views on a steep and bendy old track) We clambered up the outside of the old red steam train and found a spot on the roof(had to be done) Despite me having 6 layers of clothes on, plus my longjohns under my trousers, I was freezing! Excitement mounted and at 7.30am we pulled out of the station, along the town streets and off into the big beyond. At first it was overcast and we could only see a letterbox hole through the clouds to the impressive snow filled Chimborazu mountain that dominates the skyline. Majestical hills higher than the heavens. Patchworks of farming contrasting in colour and texture right to the tip of the mountains or on sheer sides. A small child in traditional dress laughing as they rode rodeo on the back of a big black pig. Giant cacti that when in flower, sprout a fullsized tree from their centre full of blossom. Thus we continued through the contryside, up along small houses and people working on the land, the bright blues, reds and pinks of their skirts, shawls and ponchos punctuating the natural surround of greens. Each person we chugged passed no matter how distant or near, all stopped and waved us along. Then the clouds broke (we were actually above them) and the strong pure sun burned our faces red against the clear blue sky. We were right at the front of the train, but it wasn't too noisy or too sooty. The train went along tracks that were hacked out of the hillside with no extra room either side, just a few hunderd feet drop directly below, and would lean out as it went around a corner. The views went not only down, but up a few thousand feet as well as along into the distance through the valleys to what seemed like the end of the world. There was a tricky moment when we stopped at a small town and Simon jumped off to get us some maize for breakfast, then the train started up again and he was nowhere to be seen. Thought I'd be continuing alone, but then I saw him carefully making his way along the top of the moving train (with the adults and children selling coke and sweets etc from buckets) and back to our carriage roof. At last we were on the last leg of the ride, down the devils nose, where the ride is even more extreme and the land now desert and rocky. Wasn't as scarey as I'sd anticipated (guess both our fright levels have become much higher since leaving England 6 months ago). The whole journey lasted 5 & 1/2 hours and was the most breathtaking and stunning thing I've seen. An absolutely perfect way to see this insiring and fascinating country. Wow.

Riobamba, Ecuador 12th June

A patchwork quilt of fields blanketing the rolling hills, gentle, serene, calm and pretty. Lots of people out working the feilds or hearding thick wooley sheep.Yes it was a long and lovely journey. Had a pizza and a look around. Walking back to the hotel we saw a little hidden courtyard with lanterns hanging from trees, cosy and inviting. We sat outside and drank hot chocolate to warm our bodies to match our hearts. Piano music of old 50's songs drifted from inside the restaurant and as we sat with smiling eyes at each other, it reminded me of lots of other times when we've found a special little place and had a treasured little moment to ourselves. We glowed as we walked back.

Baños, Tunurahua, Ecuador 9th - 11th June

Woke up feling like I'd gone ten rounds with Tyson, but soon up and off to the office to complain about our immature guide. That done and dusted we could carry on with our journey. As we waited for the bus I saw 3 sacks of squeeling pigs being loaded onto the top of the bus, to go alongside of the dog that was tied to the roof via a rope around the neck! Now, Baños, what a lovely little place. We decided to stay a few days. Back to traditionally dressed Indians, nice people, good atmosphere. There is an active volcano that erupted in Nov 1999, the town had to be evacuated, but things were pretty much back to normal now. (not that we ever saw the volcano as there was constant cloud cover and none stop rain) This didn't damped our spirits though. We strolled up and down the narrow cobbled streets, saw roasted Guinea Pigs for breakfast, whilst in the doorways men make toffee by stretching it on large hooks - you can buy it whilst it's still soft, and tastes of molasses...yummy! In the square a childsize hobbie horse made from real pony awaits kiddies to sit on it's back and have their photos taken by an old fashioned, look through the back with cloth over the head, box camera. We went out to a small bar with a handful of locals and joined them in dancing to the live band playing traditional Ecua/Peru/Bolivian music. Fantastic. Relaxed and enjoyed the town and all it's life. We feel excited about the trip again.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 8th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 4)

The journey back was even worse (been lots of rain) I fell a few times, luckily nothing serious, just painful strains. One time was in the river so I had boots full of water for over an hour of walking. It took 3 hours to get back, it being so hard. The heavens were not kind and opened on us with a vengance. No shelter this time. It was quite traumatic and the most horrific and difficult thing I've ever done. Can't beleive we made it back (no thanks to Jimmy who was always ahead out of sight, so we had to get through it ourselves, not knowing which route to take or anything - his butt is in for such a kicking when we get back) Simon was my knight in shinning armour and saved me loads, despite his own struggles. Well, we certainly had our Amazon Adventure! Not for the faint hearted, or those without strong physical and mental endurance. It was good to visit a place so isolated and in such an extreme environment. Made the other jungle stuff look like a Disney cartoon. Amazon is a primative, harsh, unyeilding, unfriendly forest. It's no picnic, you don't mess with it - it messes with you, and my advice is leave well alone. It's something I'll definately never do again, but something I'll never forget either. I'm sure that in the future when things get really tough, I'll remember the amazon, and the problem at hand will pail into insignificance.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 8th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 3)

Breakfast of fish, yuca etc and a nice 'Lemongrass' tasting hot water. Toilet which is a wooden box with a lid into the ground below - didn't smell thoughand wash without soap in the stream by the house (never saw the others wash at all). Then we went with our guide for a walk in the caves. Ha ha! Walk, yes that word again. Hard climb to the enterance - where? Tiny cranny. dog sized that we had to squeeze through and up 10ft (should have known then) and then through and through and down a 30ft hole straight down with makeshift ladders whos rungs were too far apart for my reach of leg, so I ended up lowering myself to the next rung with my arms. Pitch black even with the 2 torches. Basically, to cut a long story short, we spent the next half an hour crawling on slippery rocks, squishing through holes, trying to pull ourselves through, up, or down dangerous crannies. Some caverns went high up into the open forest above, but wasn't worth all the crawling through water, mud and thick bat droppings. At one point I had an armeach side of cavern wall with one finger grip, a leg each side slipping fast into the rocks and water below. I thought, Why?? Yes I get the idea of what it must be like to be a troll, I don't have to continue any further through the bowls of Diabalo. This is definately not my idea of fun! So I called it quits and we crawled back. This wasn't caving, but potholing. Wet, muddy, smelling and a bit shakien I was releaved to be above land. So then we went to the mirador - no less of a feat to reach, but at least we had amazing views out across the intimidating amazon. On the way back we saw a spider the same size and hairyness as a tarantula, black with orange on it's legs. Loads of huge butterflies (thank god I'm over that one). Got back 3 hours later totally shattered. After more food we said our goodbyes, which took ages as Luis had had some friends over for a birthday drink and had been on straight alcohol all morning - he kept hugging Simon and getting us to toast his birthday. We gave them 2 candles and some antibiotic cream (hope they use it on the kids) and finally got away.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 7th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 2)

Eventually the village appearted smack in the middle of it all with no warning. (The village is actually really spread out; a house here and there in the jungle) This was the family that we'd be staying with. We crossed the stream via 2 fallen logs to their land. There was a wife Carmen (Linda Josephina) with a broad pleasant face, (strange to here cries of 'Linda, Linda!' in the amazon jungle!) The barechested husband Luis, short, proud and very amazonian looking, a niece and her husband and a handful of small children running fully or semi naked, which they would shoo away like chickens. Dogs, cats, chicks, turkeys, ducks, a monkey and 2 parrots made up the rest of the entourage. The grounds were large with a dinning house, cooking/family house, meeting/living house and guest house. Instead of seperate rooms they had seperate houses. All were large, wooden, with amazing palm thatching. We introduced ourselves (guide lacking in social skills) whilst Linda prepared our room and food.Urghh! Bowl with river water that the fish had been caught and cooked in. Fish hadn't been cleaned or gutted and mine had eggs spilling out. It had hard thick scales more like armour and looked prehistoric. I also had a small slimy eel. Both were horrid. Also had yuca and papschicha (a jungle potate but heavier and more solid, nice though). Later (guide in bed) we weren't sure what to do so played with the kids who were really sweet, but had open sores where they'd fallen, which hadn't been cleaned, and had dirt and flies in them. Then Luis called us over, Linda had prepared a special traditional drink made from the yuca by lots of hand squishing. We drank from half a coconut - tasted weird, not very pleasant, sort of like a Kava in the South Pacific. I asked if it was alcoholic, which they thought was really funny (why else drink it?) - aparantly gives you lots of strength. Luis told us he was 50 today (same birthday as Graham!), Simon dissapeared and came back with a leaf, which when Luis unwrapped it, it was a tiny pair of folding pliers. Well luis thought these were the bee's knees and showed then around with much pride (what he'll do with those out there I have no idea, except show them his friends and be envied) Later we went with L & Linto the jungle (their land) to farm the vegetables. Luis lead the way in his wellies showing us which plants and fruit were what, and Linda followed carrying the headstrap basket and doing all the work in her bare feet. We dug out papachichas and yucas (which you then chop up the wooden stalks and plant; 6 months later a whole new crop - cleaver eh?) Their farm was huge with more than enough to eat (couldn't work out why the kids had large swollen hunger-like stomaches) Linda carried them all back. This tribe of Indians used to be violent warriors and would shirnk heads of their enimies. I saw Luis sizing up Simon a couple of times, but I think it was too much of a challenge! Seriously though, I wouldn't like to have crossed him. They no longer wear only loin cloths, but their way of life is definately the same. Then more food (nice boiled water with leaves, like herbal tea) served from a couldren chatting about their way of life etc and by 6.30pm it was pitch black. Weird to out here in the middle of all this.

Tayos, Pastaza (AMAZONIA) Equador 7th June (AMAZON ADVENTURE part 1)

Dropped our packs at the old carpenter's house and went for bus. Jimmy our guide wasn't over talkative, maybe he'll settle in. The ride was stunning and we went further and further into the jungle till you could go no further. Then it was the 2.5 hour walk to the village. There is no way, by any stretch of the imagination, in any language, that could be called a walk. We swung on branches, climbed over rocks, up sheer faces, skidded into mudd pits, slid down sand banks, balanced like gymnasts over narrow sticks of branches, clambered, slid, edged, crawled, but most of all prayed! Through jungle that had a deep mud floor, balancing and jumping - and falling part way in. Luckily we reached a palm leann-to just a the rain really came hard, so shaltered and took time out for 45 min. Then on in the moderate rain for a while. We went along the sandy river bank through mangroves, then jumping from one giant pebble to the next on the bottom of the river bed (when it's fuller), stepping stones to cross the river at a couple of inlets and worst part of all. We were on the side of the river, on a ledge, the raging river 25 foot below at a sheer drop, not only home to pirhanas, but so violent that if you fell in you would have zero % chance of survival. Here we had to skim along the edge only a yard wide for about 20min. It was extremely slippy with slime and algae over the rock, so no grip. The rock face went up on the other side of you, with nothing to hold onto. Sometimes there were over-hangs and you had to find a tiny finger cranny and with all your might pull yourself round the protruding rock, over the river, to be able to continue. This also happened but with little trckles of waterfalls. I have never been so frightened in all my life. It was life threatening and bloody stupid really. It reminded me of crazy extreme Buster Keaton sketch - only this wasn't funny. I was praying for both of us to come out alive, and was actually amazed to come out of it with no broken bones. I started to worry, knowing we had to go back!

Puyo, Pastaza, (Amazonia) Ecuador 6th June

Roads bad - lots collapsed and muddy, but reached Puyo ok. Quite large really and 'modern' to say how far it's in. Good atmosphere and no gringos here. The office we were looking for had been burnt to the ground, but we found the makeshift one via a nice indian man with beautiful long hair. This organisation works alongside the Amazonian indians, employing many of them and doing lots of work in the community. After much discussion we organised a visit to a village and to stay with a family there. We're really excited, an Amazon Adventure!

Misahualli, Nabo (Amazonia) Ecuador 5th June

Simon negotiated with a boat man to take us down river to a reserve - eventually we got the price we wanted and off we went down the river in a long motorized dugout. The river was fast flowing and quite violent in parts (first time we've been asked to wear life jackets) at one point a full grown tree collapsed into the river a few metres infront of us, a minute later and it would have been on us! This river has a much harsher fell then all the others. At the reserve we got shown around and got to see loads of animals. (it's a refuge centre for injured/orphaned animals, which they nurse and release if they can) Lots of monkeys and other animals running around free (inc a wild Caiman that just hangs around) the others are in large 'cages' coz they are too violent or too dependant on humans (inc a very cleaver trained monkey that used to open all the cages, let the other animals out and take them to the kitchens and have a party!) Was a really good place. The boat back took 1/2 hour longer coz we were going up river, the skies had brightened and it was a good ride. The rest of the day, more planning Peru and Bolivia and relaxing.

Misahuallli, Nabo (Amazonia) Ecuador Mon 4th June

(Well, when we arrived home yesterday, we realised the panoramic camera had been stolen. We know exactly when it happened; an unbelievably crowded tram, and it was taken from Simon's trouser pocket. The ironic thing was, that later that day we went to find a camera holder for it (not knowing that it had already been stolen). Bit annoyed as the film was nearly finished and had stuff on it that isn't on the other camera as we were using it when the other was brpken! Also, all that lovely South American scenery, the perfect subject for a panoramic camera! Never mind, it could have been worse. Thanks Peggy, it was good whilst we had it.)
The ride to Tena was the usual stunning scenery, gradually getting lower through the clouds, not only ear-popping, but my nose got just a bit bloody. Eyes were peeled every step of the way as the landscape became more and more jungle-like. Canopies of trees and watching as tiny trickles of streams became steady flows, into long waterfalls, building into a river....the start of the Amazon! The transition from one terrain to the next I saw colours like never before, deep bright shades of sage and a wonderful mustard-green, pampas grasses as tall as houses, strange mosses and eventually thousands of miles of forest. Then the bus to Misahualli, the small town as far into the area you can get. As I sat in the square (town basically a few houses around it) waiting for Si to get a hotel, there were tiny children swinging from trees to my left and monkeys swinging from trees to my right. Kids playing marbles infront and a man playing guitar and singing behind me. Nice town. We sat and looked up more of the journey and decided what we wanted from this area. Evening we walked to the river (1 min) where the wide flow was flanked by thick trees each side, a deep blue sky above and a full moon throwing it's silvery light onto the ripples.In the square was more singing, bike riding, more marbles, hopskotch and the monkeys chasing the dogs and pulling their tails. Can't believe how different it is from this morning. Aquired a little friend (who hung around the next couple of days) - a little deaf boy, Telma, with no structured Sign Language, but we could communicate just fine, and played a game with a top and pebbles with him.

Quito, (Mital del Mundo) Ecuador 3rd June

Slept much better, and feel almost fully adjusted to the altitude now. (forgot to tell you that I actually got a bit sunburnt - despite the factor 15. Decepitive, as it feels quite cold most of the time but the sun is very strong) Most of the morning we spent reading our books and planning our route.(inc a rough itinery for Peru, and will do the same for the rest of the countires. We get the feeling that there is so much to see down here that we don't want to waste any precious time, so knowing where to go and roughly how long at each place will allow us to spend the time better - plus not double up on things etc) Afternoon we went to bus station to figure out busses for tomorrow - but with much difficulty. Don't think we'll be able to go direct after all! Then off to Mital Del Mundo ( the middle of the world) where the Equator cuts the world in half, to stand with a foot in each hemesphere. There was a great research centre there that explained all about how the Incas used this very place, and the places off of it in each direction lining up with other sun sites. It was unbelievable and stunning the acuracy they had over huge distances, and the temples built on the tops of mountains that were specific to dates and times. What made the day even better was that there was a live band playing. The youngest was 4 and the eldest in his late teens. They all played many instruments (wooden flutes, panpipes, tiny guitars etc) and sang. The traditional music was incredably spiritual and moving. I've herd that sort of music before and liked it. But out here in the proper surroundings and knowing the temperament of the people - it sounds perfect. Haunting and beautiful and a reflection of all that is around. As we journeyed back the two of us sat there grinning like fools. I felt so full on the inside. Lovely. Tommorrow (just as we are used to the altitude) we are venturing into the Amazon. Can't wait.

Quito, (& Otavalo) Ecuador 2nd June part 2

As we came into the market town we first drove passed the animal market and saw dozens of people walking back home with leading their newly purchased pigs on pieces of string. So cute! I saved describing people till this section: We are back with the little people! The Indians - of which most are - have amazing hair, thick dark and very long. It looks especially wicked on the men. There are 2 types of dress. One has white blouses, puffed sleaves then flairing out, little lace and embroidery, but very subtle. They have dark wraparound skirts with a white one beneath, a black shoulder blanket and strings of gold beeds around their necks. The others (and more common) are exactly like how you imagine in Peru and Bolivia. Small and rounded by all the clothes; flaired coloured skirts, coloured jumpers and blankets ( the men wearing ponchos that are reversable, which they flick over their shoulder to reveal the underside of contrasting colour. They are stylish, classic and quite formal looking and made to the highest quality.), long plats and of course the little trilby style hats. They look fantastic. I have had my eye on the hats - even before coming out here I've wanted one, so where better than from the market? There are quite a few different styles, but all are small and worn mostly by the women. Mine is very dark teal and the best way I can describe it is like a really extreme pork pie hat - much higher, slightly sloping backwards with a tiny brim of just over 1 inch. Simon says I look like one of the Ant Hill Mob from Wacky Races ( thing is, I can see the resemblance myself!), but never mind, I think it's great. We also bought woven ribbons, woven waist sash and a maroon Lllama wool scarf. Bargins! It was so nice to walk around as there was no hassling and touting at all. There were a few old people begging for money though ( I think we'll much more of this the further south we go).
When we returned to Quito we went to a bar on the main drag to join the locals in watching the Ecuador V Peru football match. They were mental.; people screaming if it the ball went in the opposing half (where it spent most of it's time) and woos and cheers if it got in their half. It was very funny. By pure fluke they ended up winning. Well the people went crazy, music full blast, dancing, screaming, singing . They poured out onto the road, blocked the traffic, sprayed beer and jumped up and down. This went on for a few hours getting bigger and bigger, till thy were climbing on the cars, rocking them and going berzurk. It was brilliant ( good atmosphere, childern and babies and grannies all taking part) We went to bed shattered and loving Quito even more.

Quito, (& Otavalo) Ecuador 2nd June part 1

Still not much sleep, but felt ok as though my eyes were open, my body rested. Altitude makes your nose really hurt, feeling blocked. A little harder to get a full lung of air, but most of all it's really drying. All the time in sweltering heat and I've never felt as thirsty as I do here - constantly. Mouth is without moisture and your eyes seem like there is no fluid around them, but not as tired as I thought I'd be. Up early and bus to Otavalo in the north of Ecuador. I cannot believe the scenery. I never expected it to change so dramatically so soon. We are so high and the mountains surround you even higher, with Volcanoes covered in snow. The landscape changes from impassable stretches of flat topped land with deep grooved gorges to that of the Swiss Alps, to that resembling Tuscany. The sheer scale and vastness is superb. Up here because the air is so thin everything looks sharper and more acute than normal. It's like you can see in detail as far as you can see, and all the colours jump out at you, deeply saturated. It's like stepping into a world with a new super powered pair of eyes.

Quito, Ecuador 1st June

Didn't really sleep because of the high altitude (3000 metres) and also I was freezing despite the 2 blankets, but happy to be here. After breakfast we took a tram downtown - to the old town. It reminded me of Mexico somehow - maybe the colonial buildings and the large beautiful plaza/squares. It's not at all like Mexico in atmosphere though as its sweet, quiet and relaxed. Nothing like a big city, never mind a Capital city! Guess the climate and altitude have something to do with it, not to mension that it's surrounded by huge scale hills, that just chill you out. We went up a church tower. Climbed all the way up on iron ladders, passed the clockface, bell tower (I had to stop; altitude, wind, cold and a bit dizzy from the height ) but Simon went even further. Scary. The views though - wow. You could see the whole of Quito, it goes on forever, and the mountains. I really can't describe it so I'm going to try or it just ends up sounding 'samey' and detracts from the exhilaration of the sight. Walked back through the narrow, steep old town, through a park full of people relaxing & children playing amongst carved wooden sculptures, and another park which had a moat around it and lots of people boating. So light hearted and relaxed in the middle of the main bit of city. Been a really great day. Both of us are excited about being in and seeing Ecuador.

Quito, ECUADOR SOUTH AMERICA 31st of May

Did a bit of shopping to make sandwiches etc. Simon finally got a shirt that he's had his eye on. Worn in Nicuraguga and Panama; it is short sleeved with pleats and buttons (sounds horrendous, but really dashing and smart) Then off to the airport on the pouring rain. We were looking forward to buying a video camera for the rest of the journey, but luckily we found out before buying one that the systems are American and not compatable with Britain. Disapointed! With excitement we left Central America which then trippled as we flew into South America. The night was pitch black, then all of a sudden there were lights. In a valley, stretching as far as the eye could see in one long line, with absolutely nothing either side, as if the end of the world was on either side, we came in. The lights were only gold and silver shinning. It looked like a future space city and we were in an X-Wing Fighter making our way in. It really took our breath away. Strange, you'd think that all flights over a city would look pretty much alike, but this was magical and beautiful and unlike anything I've experienced before. A good omen.Once landed we could see that the airport was litterally in the street, with houses starting very close. Leaving the airport there were no cab drivers hassling us, we just picked one up and headed off to our hotel (as it was now gone 9pm). Gosh... it's cold!

Panama City, Panama 30th May

Well, goodbye little old Central America ( and it does look little at the side of South America) ... but we can't wait!
Today we visited the canal - lots of interesting facts, but to look at, it's just a very large canal! Picked up our camera, and it seems to be working fine, back to normal (I really doubted that we'd have a camera at all). Apparently it had been dropped or something as there was a dent in the zoom, hence not working properly. (don't think the humidity helps the mechanics either) - but, all should be well now. Phew.( thanks for all the crossed fingers; must have worked!) That's all for now folks. I want food. Catch up with you when we are in Ecuador. Keep well, keep happy!

Yes, What do we have?

Fantastic changing and challenging landscapes, bigger than the imagination. Surrounded by nature and wildlife; at every turn a new exciting encounter. Diversity of culture, which are seeped in. Tastes, colours, smells, that slap you in the face and make you pay attention - wide eyed and open mouthed at all that is around you. Overload of the senses. Beauty that makes you want to weep because of it's perfectness, beauty that you can never forget. The fact that we are together 24-7, enjoying each other's company to the full, overcoming challenges together, making decisions, fulfilling dreams. Having fun at fiestas, being included in holy ceremonies and having spontaneous parties with like minded people that you've just met and will probably never see again. Going through each day as an adventure and making the most of each and every moment and everything that is around you. Having the feeling of being so happy that you could burst and your insides are screaming from the exhilaration of so much pleasure and stimulation. Or the quiet, contented happy state, where you have a grin as big as the Cheshire Cat, when you could cry for no other reason than you are so happy to be who you are, where you are and sharing it with the person you are with. But most of all, just living. Where and how we want -and the simple pleasures that that brings.
As we've traveled there have been a couple of songs that have kept creeping into my head :
"Got no mansion, got no yacht, still I'm happy with what I got; I got the sun in the morning and the moon at night." and the other is a section from a David Grey song "If you want it, come and get it, for crying out loud" - And that is exactly what we are doing!

...And More?...

Language is probably the biggest frustration. Yes, we're doing well, but if you can imagine, everything you want to say, to ask, you have to use a new language, and then you have to understand the reply. It just makes the simplest things such hard work.
Other things on the list of daily struggles is; the way you change currency just as you become used to a country. The constant vigilance you need to keep an eye on your bags. Planning where to go next, which are the better options in the (relatively) short amount of time, planning how to get there, which busses, connections, routes (then they're messed up by a hungry driver anyway). People trying to get money from you. Finding a hotel once you arrive, having a different place to live and get used to, find your way around, every couple of days.Packing and unpacking -usually in a room you can't swing a cat in with no table or any place to put clothes or anything, and of course, not going to work everyday, doing the same old predictable boring stuff!
I did this list incase you were thinking that it all comes so easy, and the whole thing is a breeze - I just wanted to point a few things out. After saying all of that, gosh, what else do we have?

And More...

One thing that we have gotten used to is the bugs. My fantastic watch that lights up almost as good as a torch, serves me well when I get up in the night for a trip to the toilet. Helps me to dodge the cockroaches (otherwise you crunch them under bare feet -and they're big - yuk) You also become used to knocking them off the person you're having a conversation with in the evening. Cockroaches don't bother me at all, and they're a really bug (obviously not the city ones).
Yes of course there is the heat. It is just a daily grind as there is no escaping it, and just sometimes you wish you could be dry and feeling clean. We have both aclimatised very well though, and sometimes if it hasn't been quite so oven-like, I've actually felt a bit chilly, and thought about putting on a cardigan! Linked to the heat is hot showers. There is no way that you take this luxery for granted. If you can find a shower that is not freezing, then you're doing ok and I can live happily with anything that is luke warm. (bit of a grind though when the shower is nothing but a drip, or a narrow sqirt that is so skinny, it takes you ages just to get your body wet.) Whilst we are on showers, I'll let you into how we do our washing.- In the shower! There is more room than a piddly sink, and you can really give them a good scrub. When we take a shower in the morning, we take in the previous day's dirty washing, and with a bit of elbow gease ( and the washing bar that they use out here) - hey presto! (and Simon has learned the Hand-washing Tricks of the Trade very well.) Whilst we are on hygiene, I'm afraid that I have to bring the topic to toilets. Well, all in all I am very impressed - not too bad at all. As we have gone further south they have improved too. Yes there are horror stories - but I'll spare you the details.

More Greivences...

What other daily delights do we have to contend with? Well there are the beds. Or rather the place you try to sleep. Lumps, bumps, thick plastic under sheeting and homemade contraptions. As long as it's clean and no bugs - that's the main thing. Pillows however are never nice. Always a 2ft high brick. We often make our own from towels or clothes etc.
It always amuses me when we check into a room that has mosquito netting up at the windows, but then there is a 3ft gap from the wall to the ceiling. (this happens very often) Why go to the bother of the netting? An eagle could fly into the room, never mind a mosquito! Actually, most places, the walls don't join with the ceiling... wonder why? Ideas on a postcard please. The next thing is the trials of putting up our mossie net. We have become very good at imaginitive fastenings, inc hooks, string, elastic, suckers and tape. It was really bad before we'd gotten the hang of it as it would fall down onto us in the middle of the night, and we would have to get up (often more than once) in the early hours of the morning to fix it back up. - But we're real pro.s now!

Daily trials & greivences.

Busses - enough said! The fact that you can't wake up in the morning and just pop the kettle on for a nice cup of tea. You can't 'just' do anything. If you do find a place for the cup of tea that you are so desperate for, it usually comes back barely warm, tasting of cinnamen or made with condensed milk. Doesn't quite hit the spot in the same way. There is no easy option with food. You would think it would be a dream to eat out for every single meal - not so. For a start you have to find a place that doesn't have only meat on the menu, it has to be clean, it has to be affordable. (getting a place which fits all 3 is like finding the holy grail) Then of course you have to find something that you can eat -options limited. Forget about what you feel like eating, that is a luxery you no longer have. There have been times that I thought I would cry if I had to eat another plate of (rice and sloppy refried beens with dry tortillas, or, fried rice and fried beens and deep fried sour cheese, or etc etc depending on each countries 'speciality') I think the worst part is finding something on a menu that makes your heart stop.. pizza, or spaggetti or tomatoe soup, something that you beleive will be plain and have a familiar and nice taste, only on first bite to descover that you have been had. Duped! Hopes high and then shattered, that's the worst. After going on about how terrible the food is, it's not been as bad as I expected - we are eating and have a healthy appitite. And when it's good, it's very very good - baby lobsters served on silver platter springs to mind- but mainly it's a daily grind that really gets you down. Time up!... more to follow!

Last Minute Thoughts...

As I am about to leave Central America, I thought I'd write about how visiting it has been (overall).
Nature Being surrounded by so much nature in it's natural and untouched habbitat, and learning so much about plants and animals in their own environment has been a real eye-opener. You can see how delicate life is, how much of a struggle it is for all speicies, and humans, who are given so much, then turn around so easily (without knowing, or without concience) destroy it. Each living thing's life is finely balanced with everything around it, and you can't understand back home the impact and the knock-on effects that the smallest upset on one tiny plant will have on the life of a whole forest. Everything is dependant on everything else, and once you take away one thing, everything else dies or has to compensate in such a way that it will die some time in the future anyway. (eg Jaguars eating the turtles coz someone cut down a few trees for your toiletpaper) Time bomb! What is done can not be undone! Once you are out here and are surrounded by it's beauty and it's desperate difficult fight for daily survival, it really changes the way you think. I've always been aware of enviromental issues ( but they are removed dressed-up words, now I see it in very real terms: you wouldn't suffocate a kitten, or starve your puppy? - but that is exactly what we are doing) but now I really know the implications of each desicion I make - and I won't ever take it lightly again.
Sorry if all this sounds a bit heavy, but it really affected me. I'm sure it would you too. Please think about how easy it would be to make a few minor changes in your life, and give the planet a few years more. (ok, lecture over!!)

Panama City, Panama 29th May

Slept well I'm glad to say, as I really needed it. Spent today continuing to chase things up - a few dead ends and wild goose chases were had, but we came out of it with 2 tickets for Quito, Equador for the 31st of this month (2 days) Also had a bit of a dilema about what to do with our (bite my lip and not get too angry about it) camera. We put it in for repair and depending on the outcome... well, we?ll see what our options are tomorrow when we pick it up. Keep your fingers crossed! Know one stretch of Pan City so well now, we've been up and down it 2 dozen times, but we're getting there... almost sorted for the next leg of the trip. Pan City looks quite glam from far off, but close up it's a little run down - but that's what is quite charming about it; gives it character. The busses (no I don't have a fixation about busses - though I'm sure it could now be my specialist subject on Master Mind) are fantastic. They are works of art, and each one as different as the next. They are airbrushed bumper to bumper with great scenes of fantasy, cartoons, landscapes, nuddie women, monsters - you name it, it's on a bus. They really brighten the city up (not that it isn't bright enough!) Tomorrow we're going to see the canal - tonight we relax and make sure we haven't overlooked anything.

Panama City, Panama 28th May

Didn't get any sleep last night, and to top it all I was eaten alive by a starving mosquito. Covered in very itchy and very sore bites that look like boils. mmmm, nice! Had a headache and wasn't much use all day really. Searched Panama City most of the day in the rain trying to find various places, for various things and information. Got quite a bit done (though because of all the to-ing and fro-ing, and lots of complications that I won't go into, it didn't feel like it.) It is so freaky to be back in a city. Most of the places we've visited either didn't have roads or cars, or if they did one would come chugging along only every now and then. I feel like the poor little country mouse, and am a bit of a liability to myself with all the big fast cars, rows of runaway trafic, noise, pollution, scyscrapers, enormous advert boards and bright lights everywhere - I don't know which way to turn!

Panama City, Panama Sun 27th May

Had horrid breakfast, then had a look around the local church (lavish gold alter), went to the supermarket, can back and made sandwiches and then made our way to Panama City. Saw the last of the countryside that we'll see in Central America. I've enjojed the Panama scenery, especially the way that the countryside is set off by the clouds. The sky is as stunning as what is beneath it. Managed to get a good value hotel (phew, things are expensive here..travel too, has been since Costa Rica (or Costa Packet as a friend of mine says) so good to find somewhere that doesn't eat up all the budget). Went out for food. Very tired and all I wanted was something plain that I couldn't go wrong with... Tomatoe soup, only it was more like beef broth (despite the pleads for the waitress, I knew better) I could have cried. Never mind; "worse things happening at sea" as my grandma would have said. I settled for a bit of bitter lettuce, cuc and tomatoe.

Las Tablas, Panama 26th May

Urghhh, day of travelling. Long and tedious, mostly as the bus driver insisted on stopping for something to eat ( this is often done where and when the driver decides... doesn't matter how short the journey is either). So that put us behind schedule, then there was a road block as some people in the country held a protest. After dealing with that the driver decided he needed another meal stop! Instead of about 3.5 hours it took nearer to 5! All this time he had on the air-conditioner and I was frozen stiff. I had on layers of clothes, my blanket and an icicle on the end of my nose! All in all we were 14.5 hours travelling. Las Tablas which is the Traditional centre of the country is right enough, but it is just like many in a long line of small, sweet towns. There is nothing to see or do (which is fine, but we've done that) and this place is expensive.

Isla Bastimentos 22 - 25th May Part 2

We also went to the beach...no mean feat let me tell you. 25min walk that ended in so much mud and balanced bits of wood that I thought I was auditioning for the Crypton Factor.But, of course, there was a beach at the end of it like a little piece of a dream.
Here on the island each evening is finished off with a light display. There is always lightening, from about 4 different places, lighting up the sky like alien spaceships at war with each other, each out-doing the last blast, more and more spectacular. Had time to think here and also talk about future plans. One day a Transalvanian madman came to the house to visit the man who is house-sitting whilst the owners are on holiday. He was outrageous, but such good fun and he invited us onto the main Island for dinner. How could we refuse? It was quite a night, lots of drinking, lots of Transilvanian jokes, and wonderful food. We left him near midnight, very drunk, still in the bar, only to find him sitting on the jetty of our hotel at 9am the next morning! He was up for it big time. That day as the rest of us chilled out and recovered, he cooked the 4 of us a meal!
It has been just what the doctor ordered. I can't tell how how relaxing it is to lay in bed with the shutters open (no windows of course) and fall asleep to the silent lightening and the twinkling of lights across the bay, only to wake after a perfect sleep, to the glimmering sea coming up through the floorboards and making little dancing fairies of reflection on the wooden walls. Ahhh. Feels good doesn't it?

Isla Bastimentos Panama 22 - 25th May Part 1

Well, a place like this, you can understand how 2 days can turn into 5. We just kept saying..why not! We had both gotten rather frazzled. It seemed like the past 5 months of travel had caught up on us and we began to feel like headless chickens, doing more and more things quicker and quicker. Time to take stock, remind ourselves why we are doing all of this, and get back to basics. This was the place to do it. We mostly sent the days swinging in a hammock each looking out to sea or reading a book, or just idly chatting to each other. We did do some activities though. One day we took a dugout canoe (alone with the needed bailing can) and paddled to the next island where we went snorkelling. I think it was the best I've ever done. The coral was,( yes yes I know you know all about the lovely colours of coral) but this was outstanding.It was like a childs magic box of paints - every shade of every colour, and arranged in such shapes and textures that only a child's imagination could put together. I'd have been swimming with my mouth open if it wasn't for the small point of drowning. It was wonderful.After snorkelling a boat came by full of little nudie boys swimming or sat eating mangoes. We gave them our masks and watched as little bottoms flipped in the air as they dived under, comming up to shouts of delight at finding... a rock! It was so sweet, and before they went on their way, 2 of them swam up to us and gave us a mango each.

Having trouble publishing the blogger. Just wondering if it will allow a short piece of writing to go through?

Isla Bstimentos, Bocas Del Toro, Panama 21st May.

Realised why we hadn't slept very well the last 3 nights; we were back up in altitude (it usually takes about 3 days for us to settle to it ... restless nights til then) But, doesn't matter as we were of this morning to an island on the Caribbean coast (you know how we love our islands so). The scenery was about the best so far I think; more variety. Huge rolling hills, shrubs and palms, tropical forests and heavy cotton wool clouds nestling in the bossom of dark blue mountains. The odd wooden house; some on stilts, some with thatched roofs scattered on the hillside and men working in the fields. Reached the main island, then a dugout to Bastimentos. I suppose you can get a bit complacent. How many more ways are there to describe a beautiful little island? Yes it's similar to Utilla, but more downgraded and more real life even. There is one 'street' 3 places to stay and 3 places to eat. It is yet another variation on Patowa that they speak; it's easier to both speak Spanish...easier to understand! Our hotel is someones home that has 3 extra rooms. Built over the ocean with shutters that open upwards and give the most perfect views; to the left is the curve of the bay, a mass of palm trees dotted with colourful houses by the sea. Directly infront is the small terraced garden, tables and chairs, the jetty with the thatched roof, chairs and the obligatory hammocks at the end and a stretch of sea till it reaches another palm-filled island just before the horizon. Yes, I think this will be a good place to re-charge the batteries.

Boquete, Panama 19th & 20th May

From what I've seen of Panama it looks like a beautiful country. The houses are like in the States, but larger and with with lovely flowering gardens. The landscape is lush and mountainous. We are in Boquete, the country's centre for flowergrowing.It is small and nothing happens here, which is what is nice about it. It is nestled between the mountains high up like an oasis of colour in the sea of green trees.The hotel is lovely with a covered courtyard that we would sit outside in and read up on our plans.Most of our time here was actually spent on the internet, catching up with the past few weeks. Did do some relaxing though, which we really needed after all the gadding about we did in Costa Rica. (could still do with bit more too...still not upto full strength.) We are definately in the Rainy Season now. Here it rains (and I mean rain) from about 1pm till you wake up the next morning. Yes, yes the raincoats work, but what about your legs? You have to wring out your skirt whilst it is still on you, then spend the day with it stuck to your legs. Not a particularly pleasant feeling. But you're not cold, so that doesn't make it seem so bad. Tommorrow off to an Island.

Boquete, Chiriqui Provinco, PANAMA Fri 18th May

Taxi 4.30am to Quepos... well, the whole day was spent travelling. We amazed ourselves at how we were able to catch imediate connections and thus getting much further into Panama than we expected. Was rainy and misty with vast views into the distant hills (though the last 2 hours travel became rough again...you know the sort by now; internal bleeding and all that). Weirdest border yet. The town was neither one side or the other, but both, using both currencies and you could quite easily cross between the 2 countries no questions asked. No other people crossed. This crossing wasn't in the guide books and judging by how they greeted us, we were quite an event. Met a Gringo, made my day sort of thing. At last we are back into Indigeanous populations (minorities). The people are broader with a look of Mongolian about them. The women wear bright dresses that have much material in them, almost hanging from the shoulder and becoming wider. There is a large floppy collar and there are bands of inlaid material 'patchwork' in strips just below waist height and on the hem. It has a very basic and rustic feel to it. At the border we had a sandwich. We were like royal guests in there. They asked if we wanted tomatoe, lettuce with it...then went of to the shop to buy it (inc bread and cheese!). Then they kept inviting us into the kitchen to show us it being made. They were so sweet. At last arrived in Boquete at 8.30pm. Been a long day, but happy to be between clean cotton sheets.

How could I forget to tell you??

In Tortuguero the camera started to play up... as in , not working. Think its the humidity. Loads of photo opprtunities were missed. Still not working properly. Sometimes will let you take a picture, but can't use zoom or other 'extra' functions/settings. Typical. Hope we won't be without one for long, but don't know when we'll be in a town large enough that would sell them. Keep yur fingers crossed for us!

Manuel Antonio 17th may (2)

After the park and a rest Simon took me to a resaurant on the tip of the hill between MA and Quepos. It was real pretty with stunning views. Simon said he'd seen me looking at it as we passed the other day. So we sipped our drinks and watch the sunset. It was lovely. (was a bit too expensive for us so we went back to MA later to eat)

Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica 17th May 1

Went to the National Park today, literally at the end of the hotel's road. So uncomfortable in this sweaty heat, everything is constantly wet. After a few minutes we spotted some white faced monkeys, then I turned and spotted (don't know how as they are so well camouflaged) a 3 toed Sloth! So sweet. Odd shape,srange hairy body, over-long lombs, squashed head with markings that makes it look like it's wearing a robber's mask, 3 long thick nails that come straight from it's wrists (no hands) and the slow, cautious, curious movements it makes. I'd really wanted to see one so I was very pleased. Just around the corner we saw another, real close up. It was brilliant. (I could go on and on about the things we saw but I'll keep it brief as I'm sure you're zonked out on wildlife) Howlers, Spider Monkeys and loads of W F Cap monkeys being really cheeky and coming up close to the people. This place was full of people, where as the others we've had to ourselves. Its so small and so frequently visited that the animals are almost used to the people and to me it felt more like an open zoo. Glad we saw the others first which were much more natural and real and gave you a sense of achievement and something special when you spotted something. That was a different world. This was Disneyland ( ok I'm exaggerating, but you get my point) After a long trek we got to a secluded deserted beach that looked like paradise, so we went for a swim. All of a sudden I saw a large fin sticking out of the water a few metres behind Simon's head. I said for us to get out quick, and by the look on my face alone, he did. Fast as we could. When we were safetly on the beach we couldn't see anything. We decided to go to a beach that had other people on it. (we asked the ranger if there were sharks and he said there hadn't been any reports. Maybee it was a game fish, but it was along way from home and very close to shore if it was.) On the other beach Simon swam but I was too fazed by it, so I just relaxed instead. On th eway back we saw more mammals (don't know names) forraging for food.

Manuel Antonio , Costa Rica 16th May

Went into Quepos (bank), came back and changed hotels (more comfortable/clean and value for money) Ate luch. Completely frazzled toda ( guess we've had a pretty heavy week) so spent the day on the beach. Chilled ( how you can chill in this heat, I've no idea) read Stephen Kings "Insomnia", swam ( or rather , tossed around in the violent waves). This really is a perfect beach with sweeping bay, small islands off to the left and tropical flora thick from the sand back. Blue skies, white breakers. One bad thing about here are the mossies. We've been bitten to death, and these are the most painful and insainely itchy bites imaginable. Totrure.

Manuel Antonio, Puntarenas Costa Rica 15th May

/am boat back, which again was lovely and felt so glad that we'd come here. At the plantation we had time for breakfast and I went out to watch how they cut, clean and pack the bananas. Then busses to Carrari, Guapalies, San Jose and Quepos. All were speedy changes (good job we ate) and we were travelling for 12 hours. Hard slog.Went through amazing (how many times do I use that word!)countryside, mountains and clouds and forests so that the layers were those arty and atmospheric black and white photographs. Shades of grey against silhouettes, buffed by whispy mists. I was tripping a bit as I faded in and out of sleep - the awake part seeming moer dreamlike than the real dreams. Raining hard. Had one stop, got off and bought a tiny bottle of pop with some loose change in my pocket (Simon had got locked on the bus) and got soaked to the skin. Got back on gave my seat to a lady with a baby and went to the back of the bus. I sat on the rear exit steps looking up and out at the treetops wizzing past. Gave me an interesting perspective for an hour and took my mind off how hungry and tired I was. Finally Quepos and we jumped in a taxi (luxery) and to Manuel Antonio and to a hotel. Who should we see there but Mitch! Long day was finished by a plate of pasta and straight to bed.

Totruguero, Limon 14th May part 2

Darly was fantastic at spotting things, then getting right in close. Gave great info on birds, mammals, plants, interactions, folklores - everything you could want to know and never think of asking. Saw loads of stuff. 3 seperate troupes of White Faced Capuchin Monkeys ( one which came right to the edge of the bank), Spider Monkeys (one with a baby on her back), Green Parrots, Howler Monkeys, an Otter and 3 types of Toucan - really close (one group being the highly coloured variety thats beak is not only yellow but green and red and blue too) as well as a whole variety of other stuff. Really worth it. One point we stopped under a flock of about 100 blue/black butterflies all fluttering around 2 leaves, when a boat of about 20 people from the $200 a day lodge came past. They all looked with envy as they just carried on past in their boat trip rather than wildlife guide, without stopping or anything being explained to them! Can't believe we saw so much, and so constantly, it was fab. The evening was a perfect finish to a perfect 2 days here. Walked home past the public bins that have 4 seperate ones for different type of rubbish to be recycled, children playing barefoot with 2 little wheels on an axel, wooden houses that seperate the river (lagoon) and canals from the crashing ocean, seeped in nature and grateful to see it whilst it is relatively/practically undisturbed or influenced. Thank you Tortuguero.

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 14th May part 1

Forgot to mension that once we'd gotten off the beach Daryl turned around and said "Oh I can tell you something now, but we have to be carefull because we have a problem with Jaguars on the beach". What!!! The area is declared as a National Park, but still has a problem with poachers and logging (its so removed, who's going to monitor it?) - which means less food for the jaguar, which means it has to look for alternative food - as desperate as coming onto the beach infront of the village and eating turtles! Last year there were 50 cases, so far this year there have been 20! Couple of weeks ago 2 scientist were on the beach and the woman fell behind, to be followed by a jaguar, the man ran back and both shouted and waved and got rid of it. Gosh.
Today we went into the Nat Park. Rained alot, which added to it - colours, smells, light, amnimal activity. Thick steaming, heavy impenetratable jungle. Stuff of picture books and wild imaginations. Through the rain w eheard the prehistoric and very scarey cries of the Howler Monkey ( there is no way you would think this noise came from a monkey... it is deafening and the same sort of terrifying roar they give to monsters in films) Follwed the cries and managed to spot a couple viing for ground. We also saw stick insects, bright woodpeckers, hummers, so many buttreflies- inc the giant Morphos - and not a panic or flinch was had from me.Was an enchanted place to walk around, crawling with life.
Later we went to the turtle conservation exhibition/museum.Watched video and looked at exhibits. Very interesting.
Had a little kip before going out with Daryl again, just Si and I on his electric engined boat (silent) for a 3 hour guide around the canals wildlife spotting.

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 13th May - part 2

Tiny village with mud roads, 5 min to walk around it. Very sweet and right in the middle of this tropical jungle, canals on one side, sea on the other. We'd had a bit of bad luck not seeing the volcanoes, and we didn't see any crocodiles in the way in, but I had a feeling and thought we should go on a Turtle watch tonight... nothing to loose. After a picture postcard sunset bright orange silhouetting the jungle shapes we met our guide and in pitch black darkness began to walk down the beach. We were not allowed any light (only infra red once a turtle has laid and going back ) After an hour I began to have my doubts (though the star constalations that Daryl pointed were interesting) Then all of a sudden another guide signaled and we went over. I nearly died. Sharp intake of breath. My heart stopped, jumped into my mouth and my eyes came popping out on stalks. My mouth couldn't close or get any wider, I just couldn't beleive it, this creature was huge! Over 2 metres long and about 350lbs. A giant next to me. It was truly amazing. She was just finishing covering her eggs, and the guide put the light on so we could get a good look, whilst not frightening it. It was a Leatherback Turtle. We watched for about 20 mins as she finished up, then slowly turned around and headed back to the sea, each movement showing the effort, hearing her breathing. It wsa the most beautiful experience. I can't describe it. It was so incredulous and emotional and I had tears in my eyes - overwhelming. These animals are 100 million years old in evolution and as she passed me, huge shiney black tennisball-sized eye looking straight into mine, it put me as a human in my place (in the greater picture) It was stirring, inspiring and it amazed me. We were so lucky to see this magestical lady and after she had gone Daryl explained every little amazing detail about them- Wow. I'm on such a high. (we decided that the good luck had come from mum as it was her birthday today - we toasted you, hope you had a good one too)

Tortuguero, Limon Costa Rica 13th May - part 1

After a long, much needed sleep continued with our journey. Now it looks how I'd imagined CR to look - lush green tropical jungle. It's 90*+ and about 85% humid. Made a couple of bus changes...seen no gringos for 2 days.The bus went through a banana plantation. It was lovely. Bananas as far as the eye could see, strong, vibrant and delicious looking. We had a rainy season downpour which made it even prettier. The end of the line was the packing station and the muddy bank of a small river. We got a place on the long motorised canoe (belonging to the banana plantation) that was going to Tortu. This was why it is so hard to there. There are no roads and the only access is via 2 hour ride down the canals (often inaccessable due to not enough water or too much). We had 4 hour to kill and were hungry so we trotted off to the staff canteen. They happily served us and we got talking to a man who worked there and his girlfriend. The time flew by and by the end we were taking photos and joking with the other locals that had joined in. When we went for the boat saw some other gringos there on another boat (on an organised tour- you wouldn't believe how much those things cost) The 2 hour ride was wide in parts and very narrow in others. Great tropical plants hanging into the water and lots of tree roots in the shallow river that took alot of navigating (becoming stuck once) This was CR close up. Saw all manner of birds -bright kingfishers, lots of Jurassic Park lizards, basking terrapins, and monkeys swinging overhead. Was so great.

Carriar, Limon Costa Rica 12th May

Up at 4am for bus, 3 hour wait for next bus,.. oh can't remember how many buses and how much waiting inbetween, but finally arrived about 5.30pm. Suprised to actually find a hotel... this certainly isn't gringo territory, but we managed to get closer to our final destination of Tortuguero than expected. Not sure if we will be able to continue tommorrow, depends if we can get a boat. Tommorrow is another day!

Fortuna (volcan Arenal) 11th May

Took it easy this morning sitting in the cabins gardens reading. 1pm we set off for the waterfall. It was uphill all the way, but the compensation is always the scenery. CR so far has been much gentler than I'd imagined it. 2 hours later and soaked through with sweat we reached the 75ft waterfall. It was really powerful but peaceful, and Simon went to swimmin the pool below, the force of the water pushing him out to the edges. After a good rest we started back... this time at least it was down hill. By the time wwe got back our legs had nearly given up on us and as we sat having a drink by the room, all of a sudden..."Here comes the rain again, falling on my head like a memory, falling on my head like a new emotion" I couldn't help but to run out into it. Bliss. At least I was wet from rain and not the humidity and clouds. Sat and watched, the sky changing to a colour that neither of us could name, to a dull pale tangerine, to amberand then the blue of a 6pm night cloud came down to wipe it all out. Meanwhile the light cast on the volcanoe made it look super imposed - beautiful. Was a shame that there is again too much cloud cover to see the lava (guess we don't have much luck with volcanoes), but as the night enclosed, a house across the road played an old 50's record of some sweet Spanish singing, which carried us off like a lullaby.

Fortuna , Ala Juela (Volcan Arenal) 10th May

Bus rides - usual story. Passed some beautiful scenery, lake with little inlets, tropical vegitation, and of course 2 very impressive volcanoes. (felt shattered when we arrived though; body ached and had a headache) Fortuna is a nice neat town (built by the foot of the active volcano) which caters to tourism. Dumped our stuff and got a bus to the hot springs. Had lovely kept gardens and areas to sit or lounge and of course hot springs. It was a large stream that ran straight from the vocanoe - litterally across the road- and down into pooled off areas created by dams, each pool being linked by a short waterfall. It was hot! You had to work your way up from the bottom end, getting hotter and hotter - much hotter than you'd have a bath. It was just what the doctor ordered, and let the hot sulphuric water wash away the hard days travel. It was dark by now, with just a couple of lanterns through which you could see the steam rising from the water. Must admit that we were rather disapointed though as the clouds had come down and you couldn't even see that there was a volcano there at all - never mind any activity. (we went to Fortuna as the volcano is constantly errupting and you can actually see red hot lava running down the sides of the volcanoe - practically nightly - but not if it's covered in cloud!)

Santa Ellena, Monteverde Cloud Forest 8th May...cont Butterflies

The first butterfly enclosure we went into was rather unfortunate as it housed (amongst others) the Morpho bf. These are brown 'owl eyes' and a pattern that looks like the head of a snake on the underside, and on the top of the wings as it opens them out, it is bright electric blue.... but, it is bigger than the span of your hand!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It was a bit much for me. I paniced and got a bit upset, shaking and short of breath. I just had to calm myself down (it helped having other people there) It was so scarey and I did wonder why the hell I was doing this - but I breathed, was brave and slowly became 'used' to them. To cut a long story short (as you can probably tell, I could go on for hours) each of the houses became easier and I actually became intersted in them. By the end of the tour Si and I went back to the monster Morpho house - then he left me alone in there. I felt very close to tears, but this time due to sheer relief and release at what I'd been able to do. I've had this phobia so long, and thought I'd have to put up with it for the rest of my life, and here I was (if I wasn't quite cured, I knew I'd certainly broken the back of it.) What an achievement... by the time I came out some 2 hours after first venturing in to the nightmare, I feltweak in my legs, my heart had been pounding so hard and there was so much adrenallin pumping around my body that I felt shattered. Could have killed for a cup of tea!. Instead we went on for more adventuring...see the cont... about Hidden Valley. (sorry this is so mixed up ... computers playing up!)

Santa Ellena, Monteverde cloud forest, Costa Rica 8th May (FIRST HALF OF THE CONT... THATS JUST BEEN PUBLISHED)

Having some trouble. Just typed a whole lot out and it hasn't transfered to the weblog - hope it works this time!

Talk about extremes! We've gone from sweltering nights under a mossie net and a fan blowing, to being freezing under a blanket and the wind blowing a gale. Well what a day it has been - like no other. I did something that I never thought I'd do (except maybe trapped inside a nightmare) I was so brave and am very proud of myself. I went to a butterfly farm!!!! I'd been contemplating it, but I wasn't sure, and as we passed it today I felt strong enough to cope with trying to face it. I was ready, the timing was right (I'm so fed up of having this stupid phobia) but I was still scared to death. I went to the toilet and when I came out I nearly died as Simon was stood there with a huge Stick insect on his hand. I hate them 2nd to butterflies, and felt jumpy enough. Think I over reacted slightly (and I think Simon had reservations about me with the bf). First it was all about beetles - I was unphased by the 3inch cockroaches crawling over the guide - I had other things to think about. Saw so many really interesting littlte (and not so little) creatures including a small beetle that acts like an antihistamine to combat asthma - one was taken from the container and Simon put it on his tongue and ate it! Then came all the info about the bf. I must admit it was really fascinating. I hadn't realised they were so remarkable...but how would I react to the real thing?!

Santa Ellena , Monteverde cloud forest, Costa Rica 9th May

Nice sleep. Caught 7.15 bus to deep into the clod forest to do the 'Sky Walk', which is a hike around the forest with wire suspension bridges hundreds of feet long and hundreds of feet up so you can see the tops of the trees and look down on the conopy, birdseye view. Was supposed to take 1.20hr, but we were 3.5hrs as were spent so much time peering at all the plants in detail. The more you looked, the more you saw - it was incredable. Fern leaves biiger than a human, then plants and flowers so small they were like daisies in Lilliput. Lots of mosses and bromalaids (plants that live from another, but independantly, not parasitic) in all shapes and sizes. Beautiful delicate flowers in odd and inritcate shapes and colours.It was a feast for the eyes and the soul. Good to see a different perspective. Simon drew a comparison which sums it up best; that it was like looking down into the ocean at a strange underwater world, of coral and other strange unfamiliar plants and lifeforms. It was quite surreal and the human being was definately out of place in this weird world.Swa quite a few birds - eye level and at one point Simon and I were stood on the bridge, 'cheek by jowl' when a tiny but crazed Hummingbird divebombed between our heads. (the way we flew apart, it was a good job the sides were high!) Made full use of the binoculars we got for Xmas (thanks R&L, they've been great). Tired when we got back but thoroughly enjoyed it. Made some sandwiches then went to the reptile house. Was good. Hadn't realised there were quite so many venomous snakes in the areas we've been tralling, it's just that they are so well camouflaged, there is just no way you'd ever see them. We also pleanty of lizzards - some you'd die for Graham! Was a good afternoon. We were ready to drop so went back, set up the hammock and relaxed. I managed to find an old Saturday Guardian suppliment, laid in the hammock having a beer and enjoying reading it cover to cover. Simon started cooking (2 gas rings and a table in a clearing in the middle of the cabins with a roof over it - and me swinging) 2 Europeans came out and we started to talk to them, then 2 guys from Texas on their first trip from home came along "Who wants some beer or wine?", then Francessco turned up and the whole thing turned into a party with more drink, lots of laughs and the pasta thar Simon was cooking ended up as huge and enough for everyone to took in to. It was a really good evening. - By the way, it's called cloud forest (if you hadn't already worked it out) because it's up in the clouds. They are always hanging heavy and wet around you. Odd, but nice.

Santa Ellena cont...

So next we went on to a reserve called 'Hidden Valley' (less people go there) Quite a heavy trek. Saw a waterfall and some amazing views, but must admit I was a bit disappointed on the lack of wildlife we saw. Saw 2 Agoutis, a squirrel and a toucan (but so far away). Frustrating as you could hear them but not see them. Guess it's just chance really. By the time we got back 6 hours later I was ready to drop. At dinner I think I talked Simon to death about my acheivement on the butterfly front (Simon said he was really proud of me). The dogs were waiting for me when I got back (are they mad?) The whole sky was lighting up at night, but no thunder (definately wearing my longjohns tonight). What a day!

Sa

Santa Ellena, Monteverde (cloud forest) mon 7th May

Up at 4am after very little sleep (due to the Sheila waking us at 1.30 having a melodrama about her husband having a case of the bends!) One of the most trying/exhausting journeys we've had so far. 4 busses, waits between, dusty roads, black with dirt, hot, rough and bumpy...but just couldn't keep awake! Guess it's the best way for the body to handle extreme conditions. Kept being woken by my head banging on the window. Was shatted and had a bad headache by the time we arrived about 4ish. Si went off to find a room while I sat with the bags and had a good chat to a Tico called Francessco. Went straight out to eat, back to a hot shower and ready for bed by 7.45pm. Not like what I expected at all up here. It's really weird coz it's like Switzerland - same sort of houses and landscape. Not tropical like I'd imagined, but softer countryside and forests, rolling, and yes, Swiss -looking!

Playa Samara cont 2..

How lovely to wake up relaxed and hear the sound of the sea, the fan brushing you with cool air and feel the soft skin of the person you love lying next to you. Yes, as you can tell, it's been a good day. It was red hot by 9am when we rang our parents (1st time since 1st March) It was great to hear their voices again, and just to take the pleasure of them being on the other end of the phone. Then went to the beach for a morning swim and eat our breakfast there (fresh pinapple, which Simon cut up on the deck of an old boat on the beach) Spent the day in and out of the water and roasting inbetween. The sea is fantastic here and I had so much fun playing in it. Spent some time reading my book 'South' about Shackletons expediton over the Arctic. Seems the right time to read it now. I can associate with all the small day to day details (which I found endless and boring before) as I understand the importance and relavence as it reflects our own day to day simple struggles or joys. ( and all the talk of ice helps a little in this heat). Got talking to 2 chirpy Austrailian 'Newlyweds' who are on honeymoon.Went out for dinner & pool with them. They were a bit typical - though harmless enough, but as always we were happy when we said goodnight and there was just us two again. I feel totally at peace now, with a sharp edge of happiness.

Playa Samara cont...

By 5pm (12hrs since starting our journey) Simon and I were running down the beach and into the warm sea like at the end of a corney love movie. Aahhh, what absolute bliss! Can't tell you how much I enjoyed frollicing in the tummbling huge waves that came crashing over me, carring me back to the soft sand. People would pay alot of money for this 'hydrotherapy' - all the last couple of day's stress were washed away in an instant and I was smiling and singing and splashing (and screaming as the really big waves came) like someone fresh from the looneybin. Samara is a 1long road town by the beach, which is in a broad crurved bay with tropical trees and flora creepng right down to the sand. Picture perfect - and as I became a mermaid for an hour I watched the sun (still warm on my face) set orange behind the palm trees, reflecting onto the shimmering sand. At dinner we sat and talked about the moments that we are making and enjoying.

Playa Samara, Gunacaste COSTA RICA 5 - 6th May

Country number 7 on our journey! Heavy day as we got up at 5am, had 5 changes of bus as well as a border crossing. CR feels much more lush and different veggitation (even though there is still some parched ground) I was supprised to all the mountains as we came in. You can tell that this is a richer country. As we drove in, the litter along the side of the road (a huge problem elsewhere, as people throw anything and everything out of the bus windows with no regard for wildlife,beauty or hygine) dissapeared and it looked so clean and pristine. The streets look nicer kept - painted, tidy and with flowers in the garden as apposed to half burned trash. - Hope it continues. (At the border we bumped into an old friend who we went to the same Spanish school as in Guat, then saw on Utilla. The border by the way was very formal and the most organised and official so far) Also, another difference in CR is that the buildings aren't painted in cartoons - not the usual dancing teeth for a dentist or Bugs Bunny in a car for a mechanic - it's like maybe they know without being shown a picture?

San Juan cont...

Today went along the beach to the far end, however the sand was so hot that sitting on my Mexican blanket, doubled over, it was burning our little behinds, and just too painful to sit on.We found refugue in the shade and watched a surfer catching the waves. Tried to work out the Costa Rica itinery - really starting to annoy me now. Later we sat; me watching as Simon as he watched the sunset, drawing it.
Next day was pretty much of the same actually - a little overcast though which was nice. At last had a rough plan of Costa Rica - thanks to my husband. Threw away a few more of our belongings (strange how little you do need - all the rest seems totally unnecessary). Glad we came here for a couple of days - needed to relax and prepare for the next step. Evening was spent watching the ships lights in the harbour and talking about ...well maybe some things should be kept for private - our moments. Love our time together. Bye bye Nicaragua, you've been a nice and unexpected supprise.

San Juan Del Sur, Nicuragua 2nd - 4th May

Quite a heavy bit of travelling really. Compensation was that Simon was sat next to man who had a baby squirrell as a pet, so cute, reminded me of Badger. Felt a bit ill on ferrycrossing which was even worse than on the way in (and far from 'choppy'). Then a very dusty bus to San Juan beach. Really nice little town and after a much needed shower we sat at a bar on the wide curved beach, port to the left, and watched the sun turn an amazing bright deep red before turning the sky the same colour - Tony Hart style. Had huge yummy pile of pasta and rum and coke and chat chat chat (watching the traffic slowly pass the open window - boy on bike, woman, horse, oxon...) till at last it was 11pm and we happily headed off to our bed.

Santa Domingo, Isla De Ometepe Tues 1st May

Today went to the other side of the island to the beach. (got stung by something as I turned on a tap and didn't see I'd grabbed it - but was ok). Only 2 hotels here and they are right on the beach. Spent the day reading up on Costa Rica - which is completely driving me mad. There is just too much info - about 40 national parks - how do you decide? Also the places where I originally thought of seem impossible to reach...arrghh -frustrated! Had a dip in the lake to cool off - but it was like having my 1st hot bath. ( I seem to have failed to tell you about the Island! It is the Largest island in the world within a fresh water lake. It's name means 'Two Peaks' and is formed by two volcanoes (1610mts & 1394mts) Guess that's why the lake was warm; heated by the volcanoes. Whilst swimming you see the perfect triangular volcanoe with a cap of cloud the top. Big empty beach and a breeze...I'm not hot!! Later I drew a picture of Simon as he sat talking to the hotelier - he wanted us to go with him and all the staff to the nearest town as it was their fiesta! Despite all the pleading, we turned him down - we're all partied out and were enjoying just relaxing. That night however Simon was far from relaxed as he started to have one of his BedBug paranoias. I wasn't bothered as I couldn't feel/see/sence anything - so I continued to sleep in the bed, while Simon went and slept in the hammock outside till almost frozen and awoken by the partying hotel staff around 3am - then to return to the room to sleep on bare floorboards, legs scrunched up till dawn.( there is no way I would have slept on the floor - I don't think I even stood on it with bare feet) - what can you do?

Moyogalpa, Isla De Ometepe , Nicaragua 30th April

AS we went to catch the bus to Rivas this morning I fell down with my pack on - luckily I escaped with only a grazed knee and strained foot (and no, it wasn't a hangover!). The ferry to the island was 'choppy' as Simon would say - I'd say it was rather unpleasant. Staying at the little village where the boat pulls in and had the biggest bowl of soup I have ever seen in my life. I didn't even know they make bowls that big. There were 4 or 5 'tins' of soup in there aswell as poched eggs cooked in it. It is the first time in my life I have seen Simon leave food from being full. Just took it easy here basically. Swinging in the hammock reading about Costa Rica - then a stroll by the lake and around the tiny town, finished off with a few games of open air pool. (which I gave Simon a good run for his money, him only just beating me - I have to mension this as usually I play like a girl with a stick!)

Granada (& Masaya) 29th April.

It continued to be one happy fiesta. I'm not going to into it all as I'd be here forever and I've got so much catching up to do. It was how any carnival should be and thoroughly enjoyed every minute.
Went to Masaya - to buy a hammock. Finally decided we had to have one, and this place is THE place to get one. Caught the bus to the station, and then you have to get a horse and cart into the town. However, we ended up walking the 3.5 miles into ( no easy task in this unrelenting heat) as the horses looked just too skinny for my liking. We got our hammock, very good price and exceptional quality. Ahhh the times we'll spend in it .. I can just picture it! - Back to Granada.
Granada seems like a different town now- so quiet. Without the mass of people you can see the beautiful buildings- grand and cool coloured (not unlike the big houses of Savannah). The ornate carvings around the doorways and on the ceilings. In the click of a finger it has become a laidback restful place. (One piece of furniture that they all have - Jenkins you'd love them- is the dinning chair. They are all heavy dark carved wood with very high backs. One thing is different to the exact type that you'd find in an old stately home, and that is that they have open weeve/lattice work inlaid on the seat and the back pannel - and wow do they have the desired effect. In a place where you are never dry, and sitting down for one minutes feels something like being a baby in a daylong nappy - they provide just the right amount of air circulation to keep you -( well relatively speaking ) cool. Elegant and practical! As we were sat in a little bar (where we'd seen a hippy marriage the day before) celebrating what a nice time we'd had here, and supping my 6th margareta (doesn't happen often!), who should walk in but the Rasta we had met up the Volcanoe in Antigua Guatamala! So we sat and chatted having a good laugh - our own fiesta. Had the latest night so far...an unheard of 1am! Cheers Granada, what a nice supprise you have been!

Granada, Nicuragua 27/28th April

Wow, it's really great here. It's so beautiful. Huge colonial buildings with high ceilings, lots of carved wooden work and fresh colours. All looks so elegant and proud. We have arrived smack bang in the middle of a cultural festival. The main plaza has food and drink stalls, and stalls selling arts and crafts of the different reagions. A large stage has been erected and for at least 5 hours yesterday there was a continuous stream of performances. I now know the National dances for each region of Nicuragua! The dancers were excellent (don'k know how they managed in this heat....that's why I'm here, having a drink and trying to escape the heat for half an hour). So many colourful costumes and lots of stroytelling dances and masks. Really great. Had a few beers as we watched the show...people were really getting into it, as the crowd (the whole of Nic by the looks of it) are totally up for a party. We left the square about 11.30 (we're usually in bed by 9.30) / the show had finished, but next there was a street disco with live music. This morning we were awoken by a Drumming Garifunas group from Bluefilds on the Carribean coast, that are staying at the hotel. 7am they were practicing the wild, fantastic, complexted rhythems and the girls danced. Amazing! Well that's it for now, as I've cooled off (a bit) and I'm just itching to get back out there and enjoy this wonderful place and all the many activities lined up for today. Happy fiesta!

Leon, Nicuragua 25-26th April

6.45 bus to Leon. Despite having a bad stomache ache I enjoyed the journey tremendously. The landscape was completely unexpected. It isn´t lush and tropical like you´d imagine this Cenral American country to be, but much gentler and much more elegant. The land was rich red/brown, green/brown and yellow/brown, with strong textures and contrast and threw long black shadows. There were miles and miles of long, wide, flat valleys that at the distant edge were framed with volcanoes and mountains. It looked so serene, and colours and vegitation looked more like I was in Africa. So beautiful. Well, relax. Leon is fine. It´s peaceful and friendly. It reminds me a bit of Antigua in Guat, but with rougher edges. Has a few great churches and the cathedral is large, cool, open, with stunning alters and painted murials. Murials are a big part of the town, with them on alot of the streets...either formal commissioned ones, or inpromtu graffettied ones. All of which portray the same scenes (in numerous forms) of struggle and of hope for the future. Nice squares, and lots of busts around ( concrete, not flesh types). Been having to do quite alot of planning...only a banl here....so how long will we be in the country, what money will we need, where next etc, etc. The heat is quite something, I never knew that ALL of your body can sweat. Yep, even shins....bizare isn´t it, but I actually sat and watched sweat run down my shins. (now isn´t that a beautiful mental picture for you?) Today (Thurs) I took the plunge, and armed with scissors in hand, systematically hacked away at my hair. It´s needed a trim for a while. I took of just over an inch. Rather tricky. However, I´m quite pleased with the results,,,looks even. But that´s today, who knows what horrors await me im the mirror tomorrow once it´s settled down!

Esteli, NICURAGUA 24th April

6am to 6pm on various buses. Quite a difficult journey on the hard dusty roads in the infamous chicken buses. - but, not as bad as some journeys. Crossed into Nicuragua ...strange, keep forgetting which country I´m in....keep thinking it´s Panama! At border were a couple of locos, one of which caught a bug and put it right up to us for us to have a look (and to try and nerve us). It was the size of his finger with hard ´plastic´ wings, dark green in colour, with big boggly eyes on the side of it´s head. It made a tremendeous racket. It was the fatal disease carrying Chiclura! All a bit weird actually. Another loco came upto us thinking we were from the States, saying ¨Free Nicuragua¨ - the same bloke was then shouting out of the bus window to the orange-clad traffic patrol people (all new roads and bridges being constructed), calling them carrots!! ? Arrived rather dishevelled in Esteli 12 hours later. Eseteli... mmm again like Tela or Corozel...bad feeling. We talked to a cafe owner at the station as we had a coke, and he told us that it is dangerous and that there are 10 gangster sects fighting in Esteli. Just confirmed our instincts, so we taxied to a hotel that had a restaurant and stayed in and made the most of it. As we drove thriugh the the streets I could see some of the buildings still had gun shot holes from when there had been all the troubles, and at the hotel a party was going on for UN or Swiss organisation that had been rebuilding the schools for the past 13 years. I suppose that you can´t expect a place that has had so much conflict to be warm and welcoming....just hope that not all of Nicuragua is likr this!

San Pedro Sula Honduras 23rd April

Bad morning as bad dreams were had last night, so spent the day with a bad head. 11.30 boat was a real rough crossing....didn´t quite see Hughie, but almost. Then taxi, then chicken bus. Ate, checked the bus for tommorrow and bed early. Oh the joys of travelling....exciting isn´t it?

Utila, Bay Islands Honduras 17th -23rd April

Now this is more like it. Yup, definately. Reminds me a bit of Caye Caulker in Belize, but not as polished. You can really tell that the island is made up of pirate ancestors. The people are a bizare mix. Some Spanish, some black, but most quite pale, blondish hair, with very deep set eyes and look like they havent quite reached Homosapian in their cycle of evalution yet. Looks like there is alot of in-breeding going on! It is so difficult to understand what they as not only talk Patowa, but their own strain, and with extremely loose jaws. (paints a pretty picture doesn´t it?) Staying in a great hotel with fantastic views right next to the beach, which is typical white sand and palm trees. Water is fantastically clear and we did some great snorkelling and saw squid as nature intended (instead of on my plate). I spent most of my time on Utila snoozing on the beach or snoozing in a hammock. This place is the Mosquito coast and the critters are supposed to be merciless, but there were none to be seen. We did get a couple of bites fron Sandflies, but nothing to write home about. We biked around the island - which was hard work in this heat. We also went to the cinema to see ´´Clockwork Orange´´ - which was actually a load of people sitting around someones front room watching a video on a slightly larger than normal TV. Mostly we just relaxed, ate wonderful fresh Kingfish, sat at a bar that was straight out of the Bacardi Breezer advert and finished each evening by sitting on our balcony drinking rum and cokes and of course chatting, chatting, chatting. Been good to kick back for a while and chiil out, and as we sit for our last meal on the island, Simon´s already sun-snogged face is getting one last goodnight kiss from the sun as it set behind me.

Tela, Honduras 16th April

This place was supposed to be ´´Wow´´, best beach on the Carribean....how?? When we arrived a loco local was trying to get Simon to sell him his hat. Simon told him that it wasn¨t for sale and after much toing and froing the honduran left in a huff calling Simon ´´a Mexican s**t!´´. Thought it would be a bit glamourous, but actually a bit run down, not nice to look at and not a safe feel. The hotelier told us not to take anything at all with us to the beach, even to remove our wedding rings, as we would be robbed! Mmmm! The beach was nothing special at all, and when we returned to our room there were dozens of finger-length cockroaches and to top it off, a very large moth! Get me out of here!

Copan, Honduras 15th April

Told you I´d be back soon!
Copan was really nice. Small, clean, colonial with square/plaza and a Mexican feel to it. Men on horses galloping up and down the cobbled streets. Went to the ruins, only a 10 min walk from town. Saw a dead rat about2 foot long with sharp pointy teeth. Inside the ruins we were greeted by a load of Macaws, who were curious and very cute. The ruins didnt have as impressive arcitecture, but it had amazing, well preserved stelae. Intricate, complexed and very effective. I believed that the ancient rulers were indeed mighty. Saw green parrots and a deer. Amazing sounds fill the air (birds or insects?) that sound like a 70´s sci-fi sound effect from Blake 7 or Dr Who. Seen some very large butterflies, and Simon comforted me with the knowledge that Honduras is the home to the largest moth in the world, spanning 10 inches!!! I´m not going to say a word! Ended a lovely relaxed day with a meal and a beer under a canopy of lush vegitation, by candlelight ; looking first at the rich pink sunset, and then with equal appreciation of beauty at my husband.

Copan, HOUNDURAS 15th April

&.30 bus to the border. Straight away different, hot, humid, tropical Honduras. Got in a pick-up with some surfer guys and some locals and were driven into town. Great views and exhillorating ride with the wind in my hair....
Same old story, shop wants to close up now. Talk about out-staying your welcome!! WILL UPDATE SOON:

Chiquimula, Guatamala 14th April

4 bus rides, a stop off in Antigua to buy Spanish books to continue our studies and now Chiquimula. Back to the hot weather again now that we are down from the mountains, so a dip in the pool was just what we needed after the long journey.Relaxed and had a nice pasta...and also the thrill of going round a real supermarket. OOohh it was lovely, all bright and clean, with different things that you could buy. We wandered around like 2 kids in a toy shop.

Chichi .. cont...last one!

It was a glorious day of hot and powerful sun breaking down from the heavens...fitting for such a holy occasion. By 7 pm we were sitting eating a sandwich and taking a much needed rest. (so much to take in) All of a sudden there was something happening down the street. I went to investigate. It was the crawling man. He´d done a circuit of the town and now he was on the home stretch heading for the church. That is 2 hours of crawling on the cobbles! Once he´d crawled into the church there was a small service and then he was lead out (walking) and lead off home - but he still had his face covered, so remained anonymous. On closer inspection I NOTICED that he was far from being a young man. As the evening enclosed we strolled up and down the long road infront of the smaller church. The whole thing was covered in the sawdust carpet- and people were still at it. Lots of different sections all with their own design, patterns and pictures. The streets were dark with just the odd glow from the few lamps. The procession was still taking place and wouldn´t be back round till 12 -12.30. That means that they would have been carrying those things for 7 hours! We were shattered just watching. We went to bed and slept well!
(Forgot to mension that over the church door there was a strange figure of a man - like a Guy Faulkes- strung up. He had a quirkey painted rough looking face and was smoking a cigerette. On inquiring who he was, I was informed that it was the hated Saint Simon!!)

Chichi still cont.....

4pm parade - everyone and their grandmothers were there! It was packed and got fuller and fuller. I was amazed that in the hundreds of people I only saw a handfull of tourists. It was a sea of sights and sounds, colours and smells. First thing to happen was a comotion of women placing their blankets on the floor. A man dressed only in a Jesus-style white loincloth, with a purple hood and his face covered was crawling out of the church, down the steps on hands and knees. He carried palm leaves on his back and had a rope around his neck that trailed behind him about 20 foot. Men were in charge of keeping the rope as straight as possible on the floor and noone could touch it or get in its way. The women were throwing their blankets down infront of him to cushion his hands and feet. And off he crawled thud through the cobbled streets and out of sight. People poured out of the church all in their best dress, then young men in white robes with black crosses on them, or black robes with purple hoods, and of course the "Rooster" priests. Then the plinths were carried out one by one - about 6 in all. Some were so large and heavy that it took 12 men on each side to carry it. One of the biggest ones were carried by only women. The leader played the penny whistle, then the swinging insence, then the floats, then the marching band and then all the people following the procession -some singing- but all with devoted and proud expressions.

Chichi Samana Santa cont...

Up and at ém for the 8am parade. Hardly anyone around. Infront of the 2 churches were 2 squares of elaborately decorated carpets of coloured sawdust and flower petals, which the procession would later walk through and destroy.Watched the parade - which I will explain the afternoon parade- then went back to the hotel and on the roof to talk, talk, talk. Enjoyed having so much time together and all the chats we have about life, living, accepting and enjoying each moment. We have both changed the way we approach things and the way we live our daily lives. I suppose it was inevitable that things would settle to where they are now - but I´m glad none the less.

Chichicastenango Santa Samana 11-13th April

Was a rteal farce trying to get a bus back to Chichi, with everyone telling a different story of what was happening, finally 4 hours later we jumped onto the back of a bus that didn´t want to stop and at last on our way back to good old Chichi.
This was certainly the best place to be for Semana Santa, and what could have been a nightmare, was sheer joy. We looked inside the churches as all the pews had been taken out and only the giant float/plinths remained, each telling a scene from the bible.They looked so heavy, I knew the people carrying them would have a difficult job - but it would also be an honour. The churches are now decorated with ribbons and palm leaves and the market has been cleared and there is a buzz in the air. Come Thurs evening people are still erecting palm arches for the proccession to pass through and people just aren´t going home. People are set at the bottom of the church steps, with little tables set up eating and chatting about tomorrow. There is only a faint amount of light being cast onto the scene, and smoke rises up from the pots of food. - I´ve come to hate the smell of their version of KFC though...fried chicken feet.

Nebaj 10th April

Yes, so Nebaj wasn´t that great. Women there wore maroon skirts and green embroidered tops and the most extreme headresses of long embroidered strips of cloth around their heads with 6 large coloured pompoms on the end. Luckily there was a bit of atmosphere as the fair was in town for S. Santa ..fair means 3 sizes of big wheel, balanced on wooden blocks and made out of Macanoe, the smallest of which was 2.5 men high and was turned by hand! - the others went round at such an alarming rate it was scarey.
Had a lovely treck through the countryside to a 75ft waterfall. Was a killing hike for a couple of hours in the extreme heat, but a nice afternoon, rolling green feilds and passing goatherds.I was having my Heidi fantasy.

Nebaj 10th April

This was the most incredable journey ever. There is no way you will ever be able to comprehend just how uncomfortable it was. So full, half of a cheek on the seat, one toe balancing me and the other foot somewhere so far from my body that it was nolonger mine anyway. Every inch of space was taken up and as more and more people piled on they became like Babapapa and morphed into whatever shape they needed to be. At one point I was in so much pain, and was almost sufforcating as a very large lady had her boobs in my face and there was no escape. Even space above you doesn't exist...and it is so hot. It really is an endurance test. Nebaj is a disappointment. Thought it would be an isolated little untouched town. True no Gringos, but they didn't exactly make you feel welcome. Not a very relaxed atmosphere. Nowhere to eat...go to one of 2 places and they just bring you food, no menu or anything. And you have to try and not think of germs! (mind you felt quite excited when half of cooked carrot and half of cooked potaoe was placed infront of me, something different!)
....oops, got to go. Sorry, but they want to shut up shop. I'll continue soon"?"

Chichi cont 2....
I'm afraid we couldn't resist all the beautiful things that were surrounding us, so we deciced on some practical things to buy. (we've thrown some of our original things away, so we could justify it) After much searching to find exactly what we wanted, things that were typical of Guat and would always remind us... the barganing would begin. Simon is an expert and played one off against the other (the week at school certainly paid off). He managed to things at such a bargin that the stall holders were practically crying. (When he asked the hotelier how much a hat like the one he'd just bought would normally cost - he quoted the exact price Simon got it for.) He also went off and returned with a suprise for me: a beautifully embroidered traditional top. (he'd spotted a woman selling them to a shop keeper, followed her & told her that he'd been watching so knew the asking price...and what a bargin, unbelieveable.) Quite a few more goods were bought...and Simon even started trying to sell stuff to the vendors, and eventually bargined something right down, and then used something we were just going to throw away as most of the payment. Talk about cheeky!
That's all I'm going to write about Chichi for now...though I could go on & on .. the amount of things I could describe are inexhaustable. It's been a really enjoyale time - one of the best so far.

Chichi cont....
The indian priests - Confrada- are remarkably dressed. They wear black peddlepushers with embroidered side flaps that remind me of a rooster. Bloero tops & very heavily embroidered red headresses tied similar to a bandana,but bigger, thicker and with longer corners with tassles looking rather like a jester. (or 'santa's little helpers' as Simon called them).
In the market it is a feast for all the senses. There is so much colour and pattern, beautiful fabrics and blankets (which they use to carry everything - including children- on their backs) intricate embroidery, hair wraps, pottery, carved wooden masks ...on and on. You are in a whurlwind taking it all in. You can spend hours just sitting and watching the activities, or walking around admiring the handywork. It's fantastic. In the evening we had the best view of town from the roof of our hotel and, sat under an umberella sipping over sweet Guat wine, we would watch a large orange moon rise above us as.

Chichicastenango -Sun 8th April

Great bus ride to Chichi through narrow, winding and steep hills with terraced farming down their sides. The bus was full, a girl chased an escape baby turkey down the aisle and Simon sat next to a man with a tortoise. The bus conductor was mad. He was like super monkey as he climbed in, out and over the bus as it took hair pin bends on the dirt roads at alarming speeds. He wsa so strong carring everyones goods & packages onto the roof. One man had a large thick wooden trunk about 4x3x3 ft filled with goods. It took 3 men to lift it and they couldn't find a place to put it, as it was so bulky. So Super Monkey bent his head forward and balanced it on the back of his neck, then procceeded to climb the ladder on the outside of the bus to the roof - amazing!
What can I say about Chichi? This really is a wonderful place. It's buzzing with life, full of the traditional indians going about their business in the market place, which is spread practically across the whole town, but mainly concentrated between the two large white colonial churches that stand opposite each other. On Sundays the steps of the largest church (which sprawl down to the bustling market) are covered every inch with women selling flowers, petals and candles for offerings in the church. The smell of the flowers mingles with the smell (which is just as sweet) of the fire that is kept burning at the bottom of the steps, and with the fragrance of insence that is continuously swung by various people by the entrance of the church (this also creates a dark haze which adds to the whole atmosphere). Inside the church was huge, with bare white walls, but decorated all the way down with huge swags of purple & lilac chiffon drapped from the sides to the middle. Down the isle were small alters on which there are placed lighted candles and rose petals. The effect is quite breathtaking, along with yet more insence thick in the air, strange sombre and haunting music played and the colourfully dressed indians sang sweet songs to the lord. Watching the service I felt myself become quite emotional.

San Pedro ...cont..again

San Pedro is a beautiful small town. It has two docks. The large one (2 jetties) is by the main road and there are a couple of restraunts by the lakes edge, which make great places to chill out and watch the changing sky and clouds and gasses that cling the volcanoes. The view is so stunning that the occasional pinch is necessary to make sure that you're really there. The people are all indian (Tzu'tuhil) and were only traditional dress (men, women and children alike). There are no tourist shops, and the people carry on with their lives without too much interference from the hardcore, but laidback travellers. Men collect wood and carry it in huge bundles with the weight of it carried by a strap around the forehead. Women weave and sew and go around selling fruit or pan de banan from large baskets carried on their heads. Everything is carried on the head, no matter how large or heavy - I even saw a woman carrying a back pack on her head which I found quite funny. The streets are narrow dirt paths that wind around the small allotment sized farm plots that grow the food the town needs. People gather by the small dock which is by the really quiet end of town and farm reeds and wash hundreds of onions in the lake, which they then bundle up ready for market. The main work is from coffee. Everywhere you go there is an overwhelming smell, very distinctive and very hard to describe. It comes fron the coffee berries, husks and beads that are spread out everywhere to dry and it smells oversweet and a little like raisons that are starting to rot or ferment.You can't quite figure out if its really nice, or a bit repulsive.
The other most distinctive thing about S.P are the dogs. There are packs of them that have become almost wild again. In the day they don't get upto much ( most of them looked recked actually) and that is because once the sun has gone down...the town is theirs. They bark constantly, fight and reek havoc. One night as we were walking home in the dark we were sprung upon by 2 growling barking dogs, that bared their teeth and blocked our way. It was frightening, but managed to get away without being bitten. (other people were not so fortunate!)
It's been a great time here and I'm a little sad to leave it behind, though looking forward to seeing more villages. It's been peaceful, tranquil and with such views it's both grounding and uplifting. As the night draws in there is a really special sight. If you go by the lake, which already takes away you're breath, down by the trees on the waters edge you see fireflies blinking. I once ran after them. It was like having dozens of fairies dancing around my head, like Titania with her enterange - (and I couldn't be completely sure if my feet were on the ground!)

San Pedro ...cont..

When we arrived in S.P we were feeling quite frazzled and desprate for a hot shower. (over here ´hot' means not freezing cold...you're lucky & happy if you get water that's tepid or luke warm, but hot water is the ultimate, much appriciated- but sadly rare-luxery. So it was the top of our list..we had to have hot water (I still had volcanoe ash in my hair) and we were lucky to find a place with real hot water...aaahhhh how fantastic, pure bliss! It was a great hotel with a nice garden and we would sit under the franjipani tree doing our homework with tiny hummingbirds sipping sweet nectar from the flowers an arms-lenghth away. They are so tiny and fragile that I'd find myself holding my breath until they'd gone on their way.
The days easily settled into a pattern with us waking with the sunrise (which lit the volacanoes with a burning amber that looked more like sunset), go to school, in the afternoon study, eat, relax, study some more, take a walk and end up at one of the docks to see the sun go down, have some food and take a beer,.Bed came early as once the sun had gone down, it was like the middle of night with only about 4 street lamps in the whole town, and we were ready to sleep. One time I got up in the night to use the bathroom and was very relieved that I'd switched on the light, as there was a scorpion there infront of me! A couple of days later Simon came to me saying that there was another scorpion, a baby one in the shower. I tried not to laugh too much as I explained that it was just a bug with claw-like antlers...I don't think he was convinced!

San Pedro de la laguna, Soloa, Guatamala -6th April

Came over to San Pedro, a small village on the other side of the lake. Really quiet, simple life, so thought it was a great place to put down roots for a week, and signed up on a weeks Spanish course. It was the perfect place to study, as the school had gardens going down to the lake, and we would sit outside under small thatched shelters and take our classes. Simon and I had one tutor for the two of us and had lessons for 4 hours a day, for 5 days. As the tuition was so one on one we got to learn a great deal - structure,verbs and how they change in relation to present & future tense in conjunction with masculine, feminine, in/formal, group, ourselves, singular, plural etc etc. I can understand so much more in convrsations now, and find reading easy (comparitively), it's just the talking, it takes me time to find the verb and use it in the correct tense etc, but I suppose speed isn't important and will pick up anyway. We were the perfect students as we did alot of studying out of class and made the most of our homework. Simon really took off with it and the tutor was so impressed that he asked just how long we studied out of class (4 hours). Simon was using really complexed structure that he hadn'd even taught us, but the tutor was fantastic and really pushed us. (even when studying Simon still managed cheeky/humerous responses and had the tutor laughing and shaking his head.) It has already come in so useful and know if we keep it up, it will be of great use for the rest of the trip.

Santiago Atitlan / Panajchel Guatamala 31st March

Spent yesterday walking around. Went in this church that gave me the creeps. It was well scarey. Very big and bare and dark and all down the sides were wooden carvings of deities (some painted to look lifelike) and they were dressed in clothes (not Mayan and not western either) They all peered at you, hands outstretched. I thought the door would slam shut at any moment and they would all come to life and turn on me, like in some horror movie. Eughh, gave me goose bumps and was glad to get out. Horrid. We went down to the docks to do some drawing. Couldn't decide what to draw - volcanoes, marshy reads and jetties, people fishing in wooden canoes, womae filling up their water erns and carrying them away on their heads... then we were surrounded by curious kids, so >I had the perfect subject: a 5yr old girl called Delores. I managed to capture her cat-like eyes and beautiful lips, and thought it was a great opportunity to use colour so I could capture the vividness and range of colours. (The kids were very picky and disagreed if the colouring wasn't exactly right. ) Was a nice half hour. Ate and later went back to pier to watch the sunset give the volcanoes a different kind of fire. The villages came down to wash their clohes, hair and take a bath (diving in, getting out & soaping down, then diving back in to wrinse. (Don't know how the water manages to stay so clear...guess there is just so much of it?) Had a lovely evening, felt so surreal to be here. Feel like I'm inside a post card. It is stunning and quite unbelievable.
Evenings turn cold as we are in high altitude. I like this as we can cuddle together at night, and it also means no mosquitos....hurrah!)

Santigo De Atitlan, Guatamala 30th March

Woke 5am, caught bus to Panajachel by Lago de Atitlan. Was breath taking as we pulled around the mountain corner to see the lake (collapsed volcanic crator) with 3 volcanoes surrounding it. Absolutely stunning.( there are 10 volcanoes in the western highlands alone) In Panajachel headed through markets of Guats all in trad dress to the docks & caught 1hr boat to the other side where there are fewer tourists. I really can't describe how awsome it is. The huge volcanoes are a hugh of blue and their tops are covered in cloud and sulphur patches. The lake looks like blue glass. It is so grand and stunning that it's a bit overwhelming - no wonder the Mayans used to worship volcanoes. Air is absolutely clear and clean. Santiago is quite a poor town. The whole time there I only saw 3 gringos. All the women here are in traditional dress (I guess coz the'ye all Mayan, no Spanish descent). They have great headresses of strips of fabric wrapped around their hair and then their head. There is one type of headress that is 25 metres long & coiled round & round till it's like a giant flying saucer on the head. Here the men also wear trad dress. The bright heavily patterned material in the shirts with embroidery in sort of cowboy shapes. Trousers are loose to just below the knee pale with wide stripes and the bottoms are finished off with bands of exotic birds and flora around them - all finished off with sash and hat. Quite stunning and very colourful.

Antigua Guatamala, Guatamala 29th March

Simon was well again so it was time for adventure. Checked out a few places before booking on a treck up the active volcanoe. Volcan Pacaya last fully erupted 2 years ago and was on amber alert at the time of us going up. We were driven as far as could up it (1 hr) and then had to hike for 2. Was a 4 in 1 gradient & high altitude at 2.500 ft - so qite hard work. It was loose under foot as we were walking on ash. Nice views but 'cloudy'. As we reached the top there was really thick sulphur rising out of the crator that last errupted. There was a sheer drop into the crator and the sulphur and gasses rising from it were thick white and choking. The temperature had dropped dramatically and though I had on an extra top & my fleece I was still really cold - my hands like blocks of ice. The wind had taken off & blowing at a temendous rate. As we went to climb the last half hour to the other crator to see red hot lava being spat out, things became really bad. We were walking along a ridge about 1 meter wide which to the left fell with a sheer drop straight into the old crator...and to the right sloped away a little more gradual down the other side of the volcanoe. The wind was blowing so hard that it was a struggle to stand & you had to brace yourself, knees bent, grippng with every muscle, trying to weight yourself. The fumes had gotten so bad that some people earlier had refused to go on, and the rest of us battled with the poisonous gasses. I had my bandana around my nose and mouth and was still coughing and choking. It was getting into my eyes & stinging. We managed a little further before we were forced just to stand and endure. It became really quite scarey as the fumes became so strong that we were unable to see where we were going...or where we had come from. Simon and I were gripping onto each other, only just able to see one another, ash and tiny bits of lava blowing onto us. The group helped each other back down to reasonable saftey. There were already 2 other groups waiting there, not daring to any further...we didn't recomend it. The guide told us that if we were to continue the gasses would be worse, and we wouldn't see any lava activity due to the over productive gasses that day...and it would be dangerous with the wind aswell ,,,(but he was willing to go if anyone wanted to -yeah right!!!) We were shattered and black as chimney sweeps as descended. We hadn't see any spouting lava, but it certainly wasn't short on thrills and spills! What a day...what an experience! Very exciting and very scarey.
(Had a headache for the rest of the day and the next. Could still taste/smaell the sulphur the next day, and my chest was tight and 'chemically'. Black when I blew my nose and hair and ears filthy.)

Antigua Guatamala, Guatamala 27th March

(Forgot to mension that in the heavy jungle - trees with vines hanging, orchids growing on them aswell as long trailing cacti and large yukka - the sounds of the insects in the evening were deafening)
Serene boat ride across the river at 6.30am as the misty morning light and the jungle steam clung to the top of the lake...like riding on dry ice. Caught bus to Guatamala City. Bad journey (told you about Guat busses already) Was so hot & dying for the toilet for the last 5 hours of a 6 hour journey. In Guat City got confused with City layout before finding the other bus station & catching bus to Antigua (1.5 hours) - landscape through journey turning from tropical back to dessert-like as we climbed back into the mountains, and high altitude.
Antigua is a lovely town. It has the wonderful setting of 3 volcanoes...one of which is active. Poor Simon was ill on the second day there and stayed in bad (euphamism for toilet) all day and I spent the day on my own exploring the new town. Small houses brightly painted, cobbled streets and a lovely lively square where I spent a couple of hours chatting to locals in my very pidgeon Spanish and also a Dutch girl studying here. (lots of people here to study Spanish) Caught up with my weblog (that's why I'm ahead of Simon if you were wondering.) Had a nice day, shame Simon didn't.

Rio Dulce, Guatamala 26th March.

Was really excited about today as we'd hired a guide to take the two of us horse riding through the countryside. I of course had a white horse & Simon a shining chestnut. My first time on horseback (I can do camel no problem..even galloping) but was a bit apprehensive and it took me a while to master the 'steering'. I also wasn't hitting it with my legs hard enough for it to get started ...wsan't as sensitive as I'd thought, and I'm no bully. The saddles were the wooden western style with a pummel. We were out for 3 hours and explored the hills with wonderful views of the surrounding mountains. Went around the Rubber Plantation & saw how they farm & collect the rubber...as we rode into the plantation it was (obviously) very foresty, and seemed like mossie territory. We asked the guide if it was & he said no. In about 4 min Simon's face had 4 bites on it that had completely swollen up so that his usually handsom face was quite deformed! When we pointed this out to the guide he said that they weren't mosquitos but another insect ( Simon's reply "yeah, the famous face-swelling fly!) I again found it quite funny (I'm really a nice person...honest!) We joked that people would pay to come and see the amazing freek that was halk man, half manote. Poor boy ( I could laugh coz the tops of my shoulders had 12 bites...so I knew I?d suffer later). At one point we came across a herd of huge oxon (like the ones found in India, with long saggy necks and bone behind the shoulders) We were backed into a corner with them, when the mad dog that we'd seemed to have picked up started to attack them, and the two bulls charged at him....thought we were going to get into a situation, but all was well. It was fantastic beeing out there, just the two of us...rally relaxing and exciting and interesting. Despite Simon's deformed face, he still made my heart race as he galloped up and down at speed..man master over beast, very sexy. After the long trek we went back down to the fresh water pool. As we cooled off I saw a beautiful tiny hummingbird overhead. Then I nearly had a heart attack as I saw a large lizzard with a fan/fin on it's head that ran really quickly with big round steps...I swear it looked just like the small nasty dinnosaurs from Jurassic Park! Evening was spent with good food, beer, cards, good conversation...and yet more hysterics over Simon's bites.

Cont...
(sorry, time was up!).... The whole thing made me feel full inside like ready to burst, it was so enjoyable and just how you'd imagine a ride down a river in Central America. Got to dock & heard Simon discussing something with the boatman, we got back in & went to the opposite bank. As we pulled in it was like a swamp & really jungly with a lovely little hotel tucked in the waterfront. (Simon had been doing his homework...it was a fab place to stay.) So hot, humid, lush and the smells..ahh, jungle! Explored the surrounding area (this place is a working eco farm with acres of land.) Had to cross a v long string swing bridge to get over the swamp...only 1 min into it & we were attacked by mossies. We had to leg it over the ricketty (much swinging) bridge...escaped with about half a dozen bites. Yep this is definately mosquito terratory. (sprayed ourselves before continuing) then we were out into fields of birds & a whole variety of large & exotic butterflies ( think I will be cured of my butterfly phobia by the end of this trip). Eventually, v. hot , found the fresh water pool down a little path, and joined some local lads in a dip. Cold bliss! Relaxed as the sun shon through the canopy of trees. Now we were full of energy again & went back & hired a dingy (as if we hadn't had enough water for one day!) I'm afraid I got the giggles as Simon tried his hardest to control the small boat against quite strong winds and large 'waves' made by passing motor boats. We made our way to the swampy edges...didn't see any crocs though (maybee luckily so, as we were so unstable) It was a good laugh (for me anyway!) Spent the early evening drinking beer with our feet dangling over the dock (with mossie repelent of course) talking & laughing, playing cards and eating. Great, great day.

Rio Dulce , Guatamala 25th March

Found a person willing to go to Livingstone (Guata) this morning. Emigration was small shack on waterfront.Wow what a ride...didn't know you could get G-force on a boat! Was really exhillorating. Half way there we stopped to refuel and saw the ugly head of a Manote pop out of the water to see why we were disturbing his Sunday morning. Livingstone was lovely, but only stayed long enough to barter for a boat ride & to have some breakfast. (Was a bit of a shock as we are back to Spanish, & I'd forgotten all about that!) Had a boat ride down the Rio Dulce. It was beautiful & amazing, I can' quite explain...it was just fantastic. It had such steep sides to the river that you had to crane your neck to see the top. It was sheer and full of trees so looked like a wall of forestry. Then it became really wide & grand with lower banks with the backdrop of mountains. Next the engine had to be switched off to get through the very narrow swampy bit, with Mangroves, water lillies in floweer & white cranes with long downy tails.

Caye Caulker - Punta Gorda Belize 24th March

Said goodbye to the Cayes with a sigh. Its been a real luxery to have the time and be so chilled as to let your mind wander from life changing brilliant insights to nothing and less than nothing. On our last evening as we supped stout and rum punches from a rickerty wooden bar 3 floors up, open to the evening and the cooling sea breeze - me on a swing, Simon in a hammock - I once again felt lucky. It is so enjable being so happy! To sum up out time here, I'd like to quote some graffiti on a wall near the seafront .. " Belize : The few, The humble, The sure."

Caught the 6.30am boat to Punta Gorda. Lovely time of day to travel as the sun was coming up over the sea and slowly shaking the island from it's slumber, & giving the seafront houses an amber glow. Then an 8 hour bus journey. Oh what a journey..like 8 hours on an over enthusiastic pneumatic drill, in full sun, with someone throwing dirt & dust at you whilst listening to non-stop, full blast reggae! Quite an endurance! - but what scenery as compensation. So much to look at; lush tropical forrests, banana plantations, orange groves, and the further south we got the more rural the houses, and back to the thatched Maya style. Punta Gorda (PG as it's known) is a very small, quiet normal town void of gringos (till the morning when some come from mountain lodges to catch a boat).
Have to take back what I earlier wrote about Belize. It must just be Corozal that has the bad atmosphere as its been good everywhere else. ( like judging England from Birmingham alone). Couldn't find anything to eat as all places did either stewed chicken or stewed pork. Eventually found a sweet little place, family run, with a small display about the Garifuna culture and Garifuna music playing (low and soothing) - Tommorow we go up the river.

Cayes Caulker Belize -24th March

Yep, definately staying here a few days. The small streets are lined with wooden houses painted bright colours every shade of the rainbow. Rastas ride by on their bicycles. You can smell the Carribean cooking drifting through the air. (yum yum, how much fish & rice & beans can you eat?) Oh, how could I forget the beer? Belikin beer of Belize, of which the dark stout is fantastic and an absolute must at any time of the day. Now, what with all this taking it easy and watching the sun set sat out on a jetty, talking, laughing & feeling in a state of Eutopia, we decided in a bit of action too. We went on a 3 hour snorkel. There were 6 of us on a boat that took us to 3 different places. As the water was so clear it was a real joy. The coral was beautiful, with lots of sizes, shapes and colours. The most beautiful was large, purple/maroon and like a very delicate lace fan. Good fish too, but I expected much more (guess we were spoiled with all we saw in the Fijian Islands). The 2nd stop off was the most memorable and one which I will never ever forget.
As the boat came to a halt we looked over into the clear water and I had to catch my breath. There were dozens of big black Sting-rays (about 3.5 foot, not including the tail) aswell as dozens of circling Sharks!! (which were 5 foot long) The guide said "In you go!" I was really excited & dying to get in but I was a bit nervous too, there were so many and they looked so agile. This was definately their territory. You couldn't wear flippers incase you knocked or trod on one ( then they'd sting you/ turn nasty) - but appart from that you should be ok! I kept my sandles on (don't ask why...maybe they made me feel safer?!) It was totally weird, but totally fantastic. They were all around me. I decided to take my shoes off after all and as I was putting them on my arms(for safe keeping) I felt a very strange sensation all soft & spongy going up my leg. I looked down to see a large Stingray. This happened to me a few times ( Simon said they didn't touch him...maybee the hairy legs) but it was such a eerie experience beeing carressed by a Stingray. I was swimming around under the water with my mask on stroking the rays and the sharks (which felt rough ad leathery). It is quite surreal coming face to face with a shark that is the same size as yourself, their mean beedy eyes locked on yours. It was so exhillerating and soothing (in a quick heartbeat sort of way) that I didn't want to get out. Was in there playing with them all for ages. Wow how fantastic. It really was!

Cayes Caulker BELIZE 21st March

Caught the 5am minibus to Belize City, by the dock. Really enjoyed the scenery & got a proper look at both countries. Guatamala looked stunning at around 6.30am when a heavy romantic morning mist clung to the ground. It made it look mystical, magical and very picturesque. Border was a doddle coz we'd done it before. The docks were more bustling but nicer looking than Corozal or the rest of Belize City. Had the bumpiest ride on speed boat, real bone shaker, but what a view. The water is SO clear, like tap water...like the South Pacific. Went past other little islands(Cayes). Arrived at this amazing island & I thought - yeah, loads-a-money. I waited for the lucky people to get off & wondered what it would be like where we were going. Then the man said "this is Caye Caulker" - our stop. I couldn't believe it, and once I'd scraped my jaw off of the floor, I had an uncontrollable grin. I was so excited. .....gosh I've got so much to catch up on, I'm going to have to trim it down a bit and stick to the main points, o.k?
The island is medium sized but feels really small coz all the houses etc are in one part, the rest is mangrove. The water (as I've said) is pure and beautiful. There are boats docked here and there off small jetties. The beach is quite narrow really, but light yellow with the odd mangrove, coconut tree, cabana or over-turned boat for shade. The swimming beach is at the north of the island at a place called The Split (litterally where the island was blown in two by a hurricane a couple of years ago) Whist ankle deep in water I saw 4 different types of fish and a very big spider-like crab (scarey). There is never any need to wear shoes as the streets are all sand. Even in restaurants and bars the floor is just the sand showing through. This is the place where the saying "No shirt, no shoes, no problem" must have originated. It is laid back, and then some. Ahhh what absolute bliss!

Tikal, Peten Guatamala 20th March

Got up at 4am ( yes it had stopped raining) to catch the 5am bus to the ruins A) to avoid a bit of the heat and B) to increase our chances of wildlife spotting. Well, what can I say...yet more descriptions of ruins, sorry! These ruins are deep in the Guatamalian jungle - surrounded and covered in it. It was built 200yrs BC and is again pretty impressive. We've now seen pyramids in the dessert, wilderness, flatlands, coastal and jungle! Here it had an amazing atmosphere with monkeys howling and growling, birds skreetching and unknown sounds which feed the imagination (there are jaguars in this jungle, but don't worry, we didn't venture that deep) About 6.30am as we looked down into a thick part of jungle and saw some movement...we couldn't figure out what it was at first, then they all came wondering towards us in a small pack. They were small mammals like part racoon, part cat, dog & weesel with a long thin snout that curled up when they sniffed, dark ringed eyes, brown bodies and a ringed tail that lifted straight in the air and hooked at the top. (Sorry haven't looked up their correct name yet.) It was like descovering a secret , just Simon and I being really quiet. We followed them into a clearing where they forraged for fruit. They were so sweet and cute and coz we were still they came right upto us and wre quite inquisitive. It was definately the highlight for me. Later, other wildlife I managed to spot were..black birds with bright yellow tails who's call was like someone winning the jackpot on an electronic one-arm bandit! , a tiny 2 inch bright green bird that I thought was an insect at first coz it beat it's wings so fast...like a hummingbird, huge buzzards, green parrots, a toucan and quite near the end when we had almost given up hope we saw a swing high up, and it was a howler monkey joining it's mate. It just sat there and didn't move for us, but it was quite a thrill to see one. After climbing all the pyramids with their stunning panoramic views of the site and jungle tree tops and walking for a solid 5 hours we were shattered and headed on home. Was a really good day and yet another ruins experience. It was great. Now relaxing, walking around Flores and getting ready for the 5am bus back into Belize - to go to the Cayes and more beach! Really looking foreward to coming back to Guatamals.

Flores, Peten GUATAMALA 19th March

3rd country in 3 days...are we mad? Has the heat finally got to us? Don't worry, it's part of the plan. Caught the 4am bus into Belize City (capitol) and all the way out again to the border and over into Guatamala. (10 hrs altogether inc almost 5 hrs out of our way due to so few roads and lack of direct transport). The whole of Belize seemed the same as Corozel...even the capitol, which had slightly more of the faded wooden buildings and many more people. I know I've only been in Belize such a short amount of time, but, what I've seen of it...how can I put it? Well, it's nice, laidback, easy-going...but, it has an edge; an undercurrent that doesn't feel pleasant and that I don't trust. Maybee coz of all the drugs, or lack of family environment, don't know, just an instict, which in these situations you tend to go with!
Guatamala however was much different. As soon as we crossed the border the landscape changed. It is how you would expect Central America, much more lush, tropical and the smells!! Really rich fecund tones of trees and earth...lovely. Houses here are painted bright colours and are the small concrete or wooden thatched type. The Mayan face here is smaller, less broad and sweeter. The Mayan dress though is very different. Gone are the white embriodered dresses and replaced with long skirts of heavily patterned dark colours., and very loose blouses almost like one huge batwing (remember those?), but they look cool!-yes, yes you've guessed it...it's hot. Much thicker, heavier heat that clings. It is so hot that my legs have 'bubbled' - not with sunburn coz I'm totally covered - but with heat, the way plastic does when it gets too hot! (oooh, I AM a barbie girl in a barbie world!!).
The place that we are staying is called Flores and is an island in the middle of a lake, accessed by a causeway. The streets are a little dusty with brightly painted houses and horses wandering around for some reason. We've found a resteraunt that we've been a couple of times, with really nice food( Oh hurray, such simple pleasures give the greatest satisfaction) and well priced. We sit outside with a wonderful view of the lake and a tiny island with a couple of huts on it and the main land Santa Ellena. It is totally relaxing.
First evening it grew really heavy with cloud and very close - then the heavens opened and it poured like I've never seen before. It was a wall of rain and lightening that was continuous almost violet/neon colour. It was really wild. After about 4 hours it was exactly the same...in fact whenever I awoke in the night it was still going.....wonder if this is a foretaster of things to come?

Corozel northern BELIZE 18th March

Got up & on beach at 6am for morning swim before setting off to Belize. Is hot...just keeps increasing, and Belizians walk around with a flannel to wipe away the sweat. Gosh, what a difference from Mexico! Has a very different look and feel. The houses are all faded coloured wooden clapper-board houses on stilts. Larger, more spaced out than Mexico and less hussle and bustle. Less family life. Mostly black 2nd hispanics and also chineese! Saw something going on in the harbour and when we went to look it wsa a talent show, with people singing and dancing... a real poor show, but people were taking part coz they could get a free soft drink! It's weird to hear an Englishn accent, (albeit with an extremely thick dialect). The town is small and very normal..only the odd non-resident.

Tulum Yucatan Mexico 17th March

Happy birthday Simon! Came down to the ruins at Tulum for his birthday. Thease are right on the very edge of the Carribean Sea and what a magnificent backdrop it is. It is yet another type of ruin, atmosphere & setting and just as interesting but in yrt another type of way...bet you're fed up of all these ruins desriptions! After a while of exploring ( and our clothes competely sweated through ) we were in much need of a dip...so walked along the white beach to our 'Cabana'. This is a small hut made from lots of thin branches stuck in the ground and a thatched roof of palm leaves. It was right on the beach, which was beautiful and long and sea was much more impressive here as the colours were a richer turquoise...ahhh to cool down with a swim!
Later when we were refreshed we sat and had a beer at a bar on the beach and planned the next leg of the journey. It was quite hard work as we had to look at Belize, Gualamala & Honduras all together coz of main roads, inaccessability, route ect and eventually got the whole thing sorted. Then we carried on drinking, had a bite to eat and enjoyed the evening. It is very laid back here, mostly europeans - hippie types hanging out and doing nothing execpt relaxing. Music plying, people chatting, a couple selling handmde jewelry, a few people jamming with bongos and a homemade claranet and some locals challenging someone to a tequilla drinking match. When I asked Simon if he'd enjoyed his birthday, he replied with a broad smile of content, a long slow nod and shinning eyes. I knew exactly what he meant! Wewnt back to the cabana, put up our mosquito net (bed is the only thing in the hut) and listened to the roaring sea, wind through the hut and the canopy of bright stars against the pitch black sky. It's been a good goodbye to Mexico, and tommorrow holds a new country and a whloe new adventure!

Isla Mujeres, Yucatan Mexico 14th March

Aahh, the beach! We are now by the Carribean Sea on a small island that is so narrow it only takes a couple of minutes to walk from the beach on one side to the beach on the other side. It has all you'd expect; clear sea of blue, blue and blue. Sky of...blue and soft white sand. It is very hot and bright, but the palm trees on the beach give you the gift of their precious shade, and it is taken with thanks. We've decided to stay here for 4 days and hang out, chill out and drop out - kind of a holiday. It's so nice mmmm, sorry, got to go, I've got a cold beer waiting!

Chichen Itza Mexico 12th March

Sorry, keeping this quick becauseI'm hungry! Chichen Itza is another ruin and the most famous and most visited, but I think that is due to location. Was as you'd expect but prefered Uxmal. It hada very good Ball Court though with carved murials of the winning team cutting the heads off of the opposing team and also have a very eerie well (very large and deep) which they threw people down in human sacrifices.-nice!
Next went on to Viodalid, a normal little town before coming to the beach.

Merida, Mexico 9th March

Well, was a bit apprehensive about Simon's stomache as we had a 24 hour bus journey, and although neither of us felt great, it was as good a place as any to be. The passing countryside was beautiful; we saw the very impressive Popocatapetal (volcanoe) covered in snow, lots more mountain roads, one of which was so high that it was half in cloud and as we passed through, it felt like we were flying. Then the land flattened out and became quite lush and swampy with large lakes and rivers covered in water lillies. Next the countryside turned remeniscent of the British countryside, farmland, trees & landscape. I saw some amazing trees in which giant white blossoms hung...until they suddenly took flight and were actually a great flock of white storks. Last of all it became tropical with with richer colours and palm trees. (mind you, who knows what we missed during the night?). At last arrived in Merida at 6.45am.
Wow, the heat...it's hot. Very hot! It's ther first time that we've not been in the mountains and it feels weird to walk through the streets and everything to be on one level - flat. Large square coloured buildings here. Taking it easy with the food and just eating bits of stuff that will be easy on our stomaches but feel almost back to normal in that department. Walked around, sat in the square ( another mad square with lots of strange goings on) and tried to relax.

Uxmal (Kabah, Sayil,etc..) Mexico 11th March

Today did a daylong trek to all the surrounding ruins. I think there were 5 altogether ( heat affecting the brain I think). On the way we passed little villages of wooden huts with thatched roofs - don't really think of that in Mexico do you? In this region (south/east) you get practically all of the locals wearing the traditional Mayan dresses (white cotton, loose shape with detailed ebroideried bright flowers or birds around a square neckline...they look so cooling I am utterly jealous). Anyway back to the sites. Of course they were very impressive. There is a difference between the Aztec ones we saw, and these Mayan ones...but please don't ask me how to explain becase I can't, it aws just a feeling; an atmosphre. The best one was Uxmal (pronounced Ushmal). Yet again very tall pyramids which we climbed and lots of carvings ( more intact). There was an enclosed courtyard (nun's quadrangle) which ws basically 4 very large oblong buildings with a square in the middle (think big!). The overall atmosphere of that place was truley amazing and kept being drawn to one building which had the most amazing stone work. It was a much more structured and precise pattern with giant crisscrosses and pyramid patterned lines. I couldn't take my eyes off of it and for some reason I just thought that it was superb. Unfortunately all this pyramid climbing has left my legs in a bad state. Those of you who have seen my legs will know that we are not talking Olive Oil shape, but more like Oliver Reed! All those years as a dancer - I had to have something to show for it- no, they're not that bad, but point is, they're strong. However, all the dancers out there will know that you do not use your front thigh (only the back, hamstrings) and oh how you need those front muscles when climbing pyramids! Needless to say, I have been in agony for a few days.

Taxco Mexico 7th March

Well, saying goddbye to Taxco a day later than anticipated. We were up on the roof of the hotel in the evening watching a very impressive, if somewhat primative, firework display. (they are firework mad up here with bangs going off every 20min during the day) anyhow, I wasn't feeling 100% and that night I was in and out of bed 8 times being sick. The last 4 times it was just empty retching, but so violent that I strained all down my back. Bent over staring at the contents of my stomache, I wandered just how many times on this trip I would be in this position. It's funny because the meal I had that day was not from a street vendor or local place, but a bit more upmarket...for tourists I guess - and that's probably where I went wrong. We'll stick to the places that are full of locals in future...but, as with anything, there are no guarantees!
So after the next day in bed, and then today taking it easy & building my strength, we are ready to move on tomorrow. (in case you were wondering, Simon didn't eat there - he wasn't hungry when I was). Despite being ill, I've really enjoyed our time here. The buildings are so interesting as they are on so many levels, all of them are white with clay tiled roofs like half of a plant pot. And, not to mension the life...it's crazy. Everyday of being here there has been a procession or fiesta or parade or some mad goings on... they certainly like to enjoy themselves here. So, on to Merida in the Yucatan...and, if you are wondering why we are up dating the log so often; upto now there has been an internet cafe every couple of streets - it's cheap, and there is usually a time of day that lends itself to a little time out, and a little typing. As I sit here now I am on an open balcony with an umberella for shade and a great view of the church, not bad eh? Not sure what the facilities will be like in Central America though. Ta-ta till next time.

Ooops! Spoke too soon! We left Taxco yet another day later, this time due to Simon getting a bout of the.....! Poor thing!

Teotihuacan Pyramids, Mexico 28th Feb

Last night caught 11pm bus to Mexico City arriving at 7am - luckily caught bus from same terminal shortly after to the ancient pyramids just north east of Mex City. (will describe MC later, first piramids) We stayed in a small town just outside pyramids..no other gringos as the pyramids are usually a day trip. Anyhow, cut the boring stuff...the ruins! Wow what an amazing place! It was huge..2 great pyramids & a 2 mile road (Avenue of the Dead) running down with lots of other smaller pyramids, temples & citadels etc branching off of it. We walked around for 6 hours exploring the different areas & reading up on their history. We climbed the Pyramid of the Sun - 248 extremely steep steps in the scorching sun & v. high altitude>thin air, it was hard work I can tell you. However the view was more than worth it! What a spectacular city this is now...I can't imagine how it would have been all those years ago, so much bigger & prosperous & vibrant. Everything was covered in sculptures which in turn was painted the most vibrant of colours - unfortunately not much of this remains, but when you do see it, it is so impressive. The pyramids, in fact the whole city was built without the use of metals, pack animals or the wheel! How??! Climbed the other major pyramid - of the Moon, and that was even more spectacular. It had the Avenue of the Dead running out infront of it off into the distance. To tell the truth, the whole experience was rather surreal....like I wasn't actually there, or in a dream or something - sounds odd I know, but it was! Sat in silence on the top of the Pyramid of the Moon we watched small (a couple hundred feet high) tornados of sand and debris sweeping across the countryside, then dark coulds enveloped us and several streaks of lightening cut the sky in half to the horzon. A storm was coming, & on top of a pyramid was not the plce to be. We managed to reach the ground as the rain started, and was on a bus as the heavens opened. it had been a good day and left us a bit stunned I think.

Taxco, Mexico 2nd March

Today moved on to Taxco. Caught bus to MC then a trolley bus to take us to the South terminal (which took about an hour & 20 mins and a wonderful opportunity to have a look at MC & what we would be missing!) Well, thank goodness we made the right decision not to stay in MC...urgh, what a place. Dirty, smelly, overcrowed 8 lanes of traffic, shanty-type houses and a horrid smell that stuck as close as the smog...no thanks!
Nice 8 hour bus ride to Taxco up in the hills. Fab views, seems we are so high, but actually about 1000ft lower than before (as my ears told me by their constant popping). Well, what a lovely suprise this town has turned out to be. As we arrived, the top of the mountain and the white houses clinging to it's side were ensrouded with cloud. The roads are very narrow and all cobbled. The cobbles have decrative white stones in intrecate patterns down the middle, and all the streets are so steep that handrails are common, to help you along. These streets are full of people, but even more full one kind of vehiecle, their taxis, white Beetles. It is such a maze of streets, and the market is like a never ending rabbit warren, full of the life and character I've come to associate with a Mexican market.
We stayed one night at one hotel, but liked the place so much we opted to stay another 4 at a really nice place. Our new hotel is around an open coutyard with fountain and great tree in lilac blossom (with tiny 3inch long bright green birds) up about 4 stories of lovely rooms to a roof terrace with the best view of the town. Of course there are the squares which are so important to Mexican life...as all life takes place there. The main one is infront of the church...oh but no ordinary church. This pink stoned building is every inch encrusted with baroc sculpture- big, bold & beautiful! The exterior is stunning enough, but, to step inside your breath is taken away. Not only is the interior covered with the same ornate carvings, but it also all in gold. Stunning and quite overwhelming.
The first day here we were walking along & a huge comotion was going on. A group of boys and men were dressed up in frilly girls clothes & make up and dancing around to the following band, taunting teasing the onlookers. Everyone was laughing & in high spirits - great fun. What they were actually doing was collecting money for the church!
There are many more indians here. They spend most of the day on the streets at little stalls or strolling round trying to sell their wares. They are a very talented people as they sit and make everything they sell. Pottery perfectly painted with bright intracate pátterns, embroidered cloths, clothes & bags and well woven baskets and hats. The indians wear traditional - type clothes and have charming interesting and delightful faces. They are polite, proud and unfortunately poor and down trodden - there is a bit of an uprising in Chiapas to try and get them back some rights etc...hope all goes well for them.
I am now used to seeing the police going about their business with automatic shotgun in hand. Quite normal. Our favourite pass time is - of course- sitting in the square ( with the rest of the Taxco population). The sun is hot & bright & the square full of everything - and listening to the Mariachi band in their shiny pristine costumes is very relaxing ( even though they don't play too often, as they, along with everyone else seem more interested in just relaxing and gossiping in the square). There are masses of beautiful silver shops ( as this is a minig town) but even though there are some great bargins..the pack is full enough.
Ahh, this place is just so lovely. Romantic in every way, and as the sun goes down in the evening, and the lights come on and twinkle with the stars I feel lucky to be here, and with the man I love so much.

Peachland , N. Carolina 21th Feb

Last night said goodbye & thankyou to James & Shirley by taking them out for dinner. Was a mad place with lots of stuffed animals around including armadillos and even a buffalo! Was a really enjoyable evening and a good way to round it off. Next day was the last day in Peachland. Said goodbye to the animals and the 3 of us went into Charlotte for Jenkins' goodbye lunch. We'd managed to keep the destination a supprise, and Jenkins was thrilled with where we took him. We'd managed to get aplace at the Charlotte City Club - exclusive members club only (don't ask how) It was beautiful inside with top notch decor & furnishings & a wonderful view of Charlotte as it was located on the 32nd floor. We had a lovely meal and said goodbye to Jenkins in style. He really enjoyed it (as of course we did - but saying goodbye is always hard) Eventually got the Greyhound bus for New Orleans. Feels like we're starting out the journey anew- feel abit nervous, but very excited and eager....here goes; this is the start!

New Orleans Louisianna 22nd Feb

Can't believe we just had an 18 hour bus journey..and it felt fine. Got hotel on corner of Basin St & Canal St, dumped the bags, showered & hit the streets. Had a walk all around the district..thought it would feel much more dangerous, more of an edge, but felt fine. Saw lots of lovely buildings, with iron work & balconies etc...but already seen Savannah, and that place did it with class! What New Orleans did have though was a rugged lived in sort of charm, not as seedy as I'd imagined, but leaning that way. Saw little boys dancing with taps on the bottom of their trainers, men with wash-boards around their necks - playing them, and lots of bizzare sights, as , I have failed to mention yet that it was Mardi Gras!!! By the time we had got to Bourbon street, it was just before 6pm and already heaving and roudy. Everyone was really up for some fun - big time! We got to the famous (or should I say infamous) 'Cats Meow' bar and decided the antics were too good to pass by so went for dinner on an opposite balcony to people watch. It was hysterical. People lined up on the opposite balcony and jeered and pleaded with women (any women) to flash their boobs. The women would then bargin with them for how many, or how big a set of beads they'd get if they did. Lots of beads were then thrown backwards and forwards by several people before the flash took place- ending in a huge roar from the crowd and the onslaught of flash bulbs! It was great fun to watch, and no, I didn't do as the Romans, despite being challenged! The street was so packed I couldn't belive horse & carridges were and cars were even attempting to go down..but somehow they did. Then went & watched the parade...lots of colourful floats, marching bands, cheerleaders etc. The atmosphere was graet & despite being 9pm a family occation. I felt alot safer there than at the Notting Hill carnival. Yet again, the floats were throwing out beads, and in amongst the crowd yelling for a bead or two I suddenly had fit of laughter.... I'm in the middle of Mardi Gras New Orleans, I've packed in my job, given up my home and I'm yelling at some man dressed in sequins to throw me beads! - Talk about ridiculous! The song says..New orleans, land of dreams....oh no, definately land of partying! A great time was had.

MEXICO

Bus ride to Mexico 23rd -24th

Keep this short..Bus fron New Orleans to Nuevo Larado (across the Mexican border) should have taken 16.5 hours..ended up being 19 hours. Then from Mexico border to Zacatecas should have been 8 hours but ended up being 10, so altogether spend 29 hour actually on a bus. Was ok appart from the last 2, as I began to think we'd never get there. The scenery in Mexico was amazing. It didn't take long to get into dessert. Dessert as in sandy but sparten shurbs cacti and bizarre looking tree-cacti. The landscape looked like some strange pre-historic land that time had forgotten about, and all throughout the 8 hours fantastic huge mountains..on and on. It was quite beautiful and unlike anything I've ever seen before. Arrived in Zacatecas about 7.30 (can't remember...bit spaced out) got a hotel & went to eat..basically just dropped into bed.

Zacatecas Mexico 25th feb

Wow what a lovely city. Gosh, already feel so relaxed and comfortable. Don't feel out of place at all despite being the only non-Mexicans here. Winding streets and old grand colonial buildings give it real character. Coloured flat topped houses and busy bussling streets of all types of people. It's very family based, and Sunday the whole family are out enjoying themselves. Walked up and down the steep streets..haven't noticed the altitude change too much. Took a cable car ride to Cerrode la Bufa - mountain with great view of..well everything really! Lovely suprise courtyard on top with pretty church, square, imposing statues and little markets. Simon and I had a huge taco thing piled with all vegetables & salsa etc. Was a strange taste, but quite nice like a pickled root veg - very unusual. Was hungry so wolfed it down... I'd half finished mine , when Simon started to pull a face - didn't taste right, he thought it was meat, but I didn't coz it wasn't chewy, so he went & asked. He came back....two words...pig fat! Well that's the first time in about 9 -10 years since I've had any animal. Felt very queesy at the thought of it - but I'm still here! Spent the whole day there, so lovely and relaxing.
Today been walking around, the place has so many beautiful lush squares to sit in, kept in pristine condition. Read our books to plan the next couple of legs of the journey. Already more tricky than anticipated coz the country is so sparcely inhabited, bus routes aren't direct, so already had to change the plan so as not to spend the whole time on the road. Will be leaving tomorrow night 11pm to Mexico city & getting a bus straight out to the major ruins Teotch... can't remember the name! Staying there then back to Mexico City to come straight out again to Taxco, stay there, then back again to M C and onto the Yucatan Peninsular. ( you can't get anywhere without going trough MC, but we didn't want to stay there due to all the bad publicity it gets.) Been a great intro to Mexico, feels brill, and already Simon looks like one of the locals with his long mustache (though a bit pasty) and I must say, he's been doing very well with the Spanish - there is no English spoken at all, but we expected that. (I can count to 10!)
Well thats it I'm afraid - places to go, things to see! Won't write now for a while - probably from the Yucatan. Take care all.
So, said goodbye to Zacatecas with it's bustling markets selling fruit & cactus chopped up, traditionally dressed indians selling their handmade jewelry, old men with their huge cowboy-type white hats, the noise & music, the vendors with tacos, nuts, candyfloss or balloons, the squares & gardens, the huge yellow butterflies and the happy fiesta atmosphere of the people.

Unionville N.Carolina 18th Feb

This is my version of events. Hope you can keep awake!

AMERICA:
Washington, DC 16th Jan

Finally arrived in the US after what seemed like an eternity of last minute running around and sorting out.The last 3 weeks in England were just mad.
Washington was busy getting ready for the inauguration of Bush, but even still it was nowhere near as busy as London is. Everyone/thing moves at a much slower pace. Stayed in a hotel just a couple of blocks from the Whitehouse, which made it easy to stroll around and take in the sites.The whole city seems like it was built at the same time, as it's all the same style and colour.Was great waking up the next morning and looking out of the window to the street below...new sites, new sounds and new smells.

Roanoke, Virginia 17thJan

In the afternoon caught the Greyhound bus to Roanoke (how did I stop myself from breaking out into that famous Simon & Garfunkel song "To Look For America"?)Simon wanted me to see the Blue Ridge Mountains of Virginia (are you picturing Laurel & Hardy?) But unfortunately the day was overcast, and as we hit the mountains a dense fog covered the whole of the view. I couldn't believe they were out there apart from the odd glimps...which really got the imagination going as you could easily picture American Indians riding through there. At Roanoke we stayed in one of those roadside motels like in "Thelma & Louise" or "Pulp Fiction". Cool.
The next day we wanted to go to Radford where Simon went to college, but nolonger buses there which was a shame...so near yet so far! So we looked around Roanoke and amused ourselves with various quirky goings on, which seem a bit cruel now that I go to type them..so I won't.

Charlotte & Peachland,N.Carolina 19th Jan

Caught the 4am Greyhound this morning..it was a long journey to Charlotte, but at last we got to meet up with our long and dear friend Jenkins (with whom we'll be staying with) Much to my elation Jenkins not only has 2 dogs but also 9 puppies...cute little black fluffballs that want to drown you in affection. mmmm, 7th heaven!
What have we been upto while we've been here?
Well mainly relaxing...big time! We have also visited lots of Jenkins' family, who have treated us like long lost relatives. They have all been so warm and welcoming...maybe that's the famous Southern hospitality? We have been to parties,family gatherings,trips,stayed over with various people and have had so many meals out that it would be impossible to count!
We have been on lots of drives to look at the different villages (or Communities as they are called here) There is so much space between properties, and each house is a different style with it's own unique character ( except of course for the open porches that every house has, so that it's owners can sit out in their rocking chair, sip iced tea and watch the world go by)
The colours out here are amazing; long bold shadows cut across gentle but saturated deep siennas,rich russets,burnt ochres and soil as red as at Tara. Come sunset, the sky is ablaze and echoes the colours of the earth.
People...like they have just walked off a film set...actually that's not true,they are too obvious and too much like typical characatures to be given credability.- but very sweet.
Also been doing the odd sketch. Don't get me wrong, I'm no Van Gogh, but at least I'm catching things I wouldn't get from photos.
Animals...(apart from puppies!) They have a beautiful bird here that's called a Cardinal, which is bright orangy-pinky-red. Not seen much wildlife, but pleanty of roadkill; dogs, cats, squirrells, foxes, possoms and racoons. Also seen Buffalo... someone keeps them a couple of roads from Jenkins' house.

Running down a dream.

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