Wellington - South Island - New Zealand 27th Sept

Didn't sleep too good & when I woke felt terrible and just couldn't get up - so snoozed and snoozed. Poor Simon - the day that I'm laid up happens to be the worst of weather - drizzly, cloudy, windy and not too great scenery wise! Had the large fry up that I was craving and pulled up at a fantastic beach. 'Otaki Beach' was an ongoing strip of sand not unlike 90 mile beach, with large chunks of smooth driftwood, invigorating sea with waves breaking 5 deep, wild fresh elements and an over excited 'Dulux' dog running around. Thought I'd jumped into a TV commercial - but for one thing, which was a homemade grave made from driftwod twigs. A simple wooded cross with the youngmans name and under that - one word...why. Wrapped around it was a bandanna, a neclace and a feather. Don't know what it was about it - the simplicity, the setting- but felt very moved by it. This indeed was a very spiritual place to rest, but there must have been a sad story behind it. Felt very connected and very humble. Felt quite cleansed and much better - think I'm just run-down (in the back of my mind worrying about Oz).The ever reliable and intune Simon came up behind me and gave me a hug - reading my mind- and assured me about everything. Drove around huge posh houses with stunning views up the hillside - San Francisco style before bording the ferry and getting best seats upfront to watch harbour lights welcome us to the south island.

Tongariro National Park , New Zealand 26th Sept

Last night I slept with a skydiver!! Great day of driving around the lake, to rivers and around the National Park of Tongario. Yawn yawn as I explain more countryside... pastorial to brush to forest to lakes - even opposite sides of the road can be completely different.Went up to the Ski resort, which was packed with families having fun - none of the posing snobbery you find in European resorts. The prices were good, but just didn't feel like it - think I may be getting a cold actually. Was glorious weather again for our drive through a deep valley with hairpin turns and beautiful mountainside, forest and river below - the odd 5 house town cropping up now and again with strange out of place names like London and Jerusalem. Wanted to find somewhere nice to settle early for the night - but all the places were just 'OK' and not very private and Simon was on a mission for perfection. Drove on and on into a burning sunset, and then tried to find a beach, but long drives only to find it private at the end. At last and a little frazzled found a dock by Foxton beach. Settled, had a beer and did the crossword till we dropped off .. (to sleep, not the dock!)

Lake Taupo, New Zealand 25th Sept

AHH, lovely morning again and ate my cerial by the water, fed the ducks and felt relaxed and contented. Went to Huka Falls - a large wide rapid river and small but ferocious waterfall, from which the majority of NZ power comes from. Walked the woodlands beside the river which was tapwater clear except for by the falls, where it became light aqua blue due to the air in the water. Next off to craters of the moon & thermal area. Looked strange to see friendly gentle countryside with steam leaking from it - like it was hiding something much more sinister. Then Simon "just wanted to enquire about skydiving" and before I knew it he was all kitted out in his flying suit & goggles and waiting for the plane to come! While Simon was being instructed how to take the shape of 'Big Banana' in the air and the other instructions, I was sat having a cup of tea (that I wished was Brandy) and watched them pack the parachutes. Then a goodbye kiss for good luck and off he went into the tiny plane and I could see him right by the perspex door. Did feel strange that I wasn't sat there crying or sat on the toilet, but just hoping that he would enjoy it to the full. Half an hour later the plane no longer being visible, there was a shout that they were coming down and I looked up to see a few tiny dots that were the parachutes - there was no way you'd beable to see them freefalling - just too high up. I ran to the field they were due to land in and watched the slow calm desent. I knew what colour chute Simon had, so could follow him gliding gently - and then later doing a few stunt turns and spirals. I wondered what on earth sort of experience he'd had falling from a plane at 200km per hour and seeing the world from a totally different perspective come hurtling towards you - then the silent decent and the amazing views of this stunning countryside, lake and mountains. I knew that no matter how well he would describe it to me, there would be no way I would ever comprehend it without doing it myself, and couldn't help but feel a little pang of jealously that I couldn't do it myself. This is the first thing this year that we haven't both experienced, but I think my little bird heart would have actually stopped if I'd have gone up! What a smooth landing - like stepping off an escalater - but then not the jumping up and down with excitement that I expected... he simply looked stunned to the core. His eyes - my god, I couldn't work out what they said as I've never seen that expression before - the expression of a man shocked and exhillorated and having seen life from the other side. I knew then it had been beyond his expectation. Afterwards watched the video they took from the ground, to up in the plane and then jumping out and following them down (didn't show Simon jumping out - you had to pay for a skydiving cameraman to jump with you). This is when I freaked. I couldn't believe that he had just done that - you really got to see what it was like jumping out and the views of falling - you can the curve of the world - beyong amazing. I was nervous, giddly, excited and hyper (thank god I didn't see the video before he went up!) Can't believe we pulled up at this place and the next minute he's falling from a plane. Drove to the lake and pulled up for a cup of tea and to hear all about it (which was fantastic hearing him talking about it on an absolute high). We needed to chill big time so went to the thermal baths for a lovely soak in natural hot mineral water - skin smoothed, mind soothed. Absolutely shattered by night fall but still talking about the fall whilst eating our chip supper. Think Simon will always remember today!

Taupo, New Zealand 24th Sept

Awoke and took the opportunity of our lakeside setting to do a few stretches, exercises and fill my lungs with fresh air. I love waking up in a secluded place by a lovely lake. Were lazy and didn't get going till 9am after a large breakfast. Cambridge nothing special - not as "English" as expected (seen better) so went onto Waitomo Caves. These were enchanting limestone caves with icing sugar drip stalactites and mites, but the best bit was when we boarded a small boat and were pulled trough the pitch black caves. Ahh, pretty pretty pretty. Who brought the stars down for me? Just above our heads was a Milky Way of glow worms hung from the cave roof, twinkling just for us as we guided through in silence, our mouths as wide as our eyes at seeing our ow private heaven, a minature galexy full and bright (and when I die, take him, and cut him out in little stars, and he shall make the face of heaven so fine that all the world will be in love with night and pay no worship to the garish sun). Lunch by the picnic area and on through more Engishesque countryside, but still with those adorable sugar houses and flowery gardens. At Lake Taupo bought fresh green mussells the size of your hand and had a feast of them and white wine whilst overlooking the lake in an increadably posh part of a quiet town. Not bad for a couple of campervan travellers. *( how could I forget the highlight of the day??? Please don't read on if you have just eaten or are easily grossed... We found a dump station to empty the chemical toilet. Oh my god it was awful - Simon took on the task and is a bit queesey in that department to start with. Well there was all s**t (excuse my French) around the top of it & he had to aim it down this hole and he missed, and then it wouldn't come out and he had to shake it and it was all slopping around. Simon's face was green and he was very nearly puking. I meanwhile was having the best & most uncontrolable fit of laughter ever. Had to wash it down whilst trying not to get it on his trousers or sandled feet - clearly unamused and ready to faint - which made it funnier. (I know, I'm so cruel!) As it is my turn to empty it next time, the toilet is now out of bounds!

Rotorua, (and around) North Island, New Zealand Sun 23rd Sept

This morning was another calm start, watching ruffled black swans on the lake as we supped our first cuppa of the day.Rode in to Frotorua and decided what we wanted to do - seems so much to do around here. Went to Te Whakarewarewatanga O Te Ope Taua a Wahiao (eat your heart out Wales!!) - actually means 'The gathering together of the warparty of Wahiao. Had a charming guided tour around the 'Touristy' Maori Village and cultural centre. Learned all about history, saw men woodcarving, women making traditional costumes etc - was really interesting. Then onto a golf buggy train tour of the geysers and boiling mud within the grounds. Hhmmm! We had a bit of a laugh as it was indeed laughable and quite pathetic at the side of what we saw in Bolivia/Chile. Then the Kiwi House to get a rare glimps of this wierd elusive creature with long striding legs, bizarre shape, fluffy fur-like feathers and of course no wings. *(For the women = Every female that entered the Kiwi house stood rooted and gasped horrified at one particular display, - which the men just glanced at and casulaly walked on - and that was the display showing an egg inside the female Kiwi's body. Now I don't want to misquote (as I bloked the scarey number from my mind and can't remember it exactly) but the egg took up something like 65% of her body, and an X-ray of it looked like it was from a horror movie. No wonder they're nearly extinct!!
Ok boys, I'm off my side track! - Wandered around til lunch when everyone gathered at the lawned enterence of the Meeting House and a Maori woman in full dress came out to the crowd to explain a traditional welcoming ritual and that she would need a Cheif to act on behalf of the group. Simon's hand shot up , and so history was made as Cheif Simon welcomed them with 'nose kisses' and accepted the green fern of peace after the men had challenged him with the Haka. Into the meeting house and of course Cheif Simon and his wife (once he'd greeted every Maori on stage with a nose kiss) had pride of place right at the front to watch the show of dancing singing and Haka. It was a good show on the whole (I particularly liked the dances with stick throwing and twirling balls on the end of long strings) but, the dances weren't as sweetly enticing as in Samoa and the Haka was only ok. We have seen 5yr olds perform it for real out in the South Seas with such gusto and conviction it would put these guys to shame. But oh the singing. I'd forgotten just how much like angels it sounds like. It filled me up and I had to do my best not to burst out sobbing. It also sent my mind back to the South Seas and those special people singing of their special place and the lyrics "I must return to Samoa, return to paradise" - if only! The cheif and his wife left the fame behind and had a short drive to a park in the centre of town, where the usual sights of kids on swings, bushes and benches and a little kiddy steam train were intermingled with boiling mud and steam rising from the ground. Had a spagetti lunch and went to see about the chairlift ride up and taboggan ride down the town's hill. Looked a bit tame and didn't do anything for me so went to look into bungeeing, zorbing etc - which all looked anything but tame! Si wanted to do the Zorbing, and after seeing one in action (and the person coming out laughing) I swallowed my nerves and agreed. (for those who don't know; you can never get me on a bumper car ride or waltzer, let alone anything a little more adventurous). Got changed into shorts and vest and already shaking (I'm such a baby) - but I really wanted to do it. Got in truck with Zorb on the back which took us to the top of the steep hill. One at a time we had to take a run up and dive through the small round opening into the Zorb. Once inside the giant Human Hamster ball made from clear soft plastic (large outer with small inner chamber just big enough for two) they threw in 2 buckets of hot soapy water for a "twin cycle wash" then blasted us with a hose of freezing cold water (me screeming already). We stood up and had to start to walk forward - the ball instantly picking up speed down hill and Simon and became 2 crazed hampsters running to keep up - not for long, and we spent the roll down the hill being sloshed around head over heels like in a washing machine. I was screaming and laughing - I thought it was great fun - but I think it was a little tame for my hardened adrenaline ride adict husband. On a high we decided that there was nothing more we wanted to do in Rotorua and drove through countryside much more reminiscent of England (but glorious sunshine which turned to glorious sunset) to a place just outside of Cambridge. After a little toing and froing to find a good spot we pulled up by a lake and frolicing bunnies to settle down for the night with a few glasses of wine and good conversation.

Coromandel Peninsular, New Zealand 22nd Sept

Though in the layby of a quiet road we had the estury, fresh air, sharp amber morning light and birdsong to awaken us. By 9.30 we were in Thames strolling aroung it's Saturday market. What a weird and quirky little old town. Had a pioneer feel to it, with goldrush style shopfronts and contrasting 'Dolls' houses. The market was unlike any I have ever been to. Are we in the 50's? Locals laid out their homebaked cakes or organic grown pears like a village fete from strangeville with the soundtrack supplied by a couple of old dears playing ragtime on organ and saxaphone. It was perfectly odd. Happily we came away with homebaked lemon & blueberry cake, date and walnut scones and organic apples (which were so good that Simon went back for more and returned with a carrier bag full!). Bizarre street party behind we drove on and up the Coromandel Peninsular, which was just as nice as the more famous Bay of Islands, but more rugged and extreme, and even better coastal views of the islands. Difficult to remember the names of the places we stopped off at as we were just pulling up as and when we wanted to and the scenery begged for more time. It's great. A good beach was Cooks Beach (named after you know who!) where to feel the sand between my toes again was like coming home. An even better beach was Cathedral Cove. 35min walk through lovely rich forest to a secluded bay reached only in low tide, and a picturesque arch/cave on beach taking you through to more pillars of rock in the sea and tiny dotted islands further off. Weather was very nice and we had the place almost to ourselves. I couldn't help but dance and leap around the beach feeling great. Simon did his equivilant; stripped to his pants and went for a swim. It was freezing, but he looked gorgeous, and I think that was like coming home for him. Back in the van we ate our beans on toast with a great view and sighed a sigh of relief as a bus load of tourists were dropped off to stand and look at the view for 15min before being horded back on the bus again. Driving back down the Peninsular I sat in the back of the van drifting in and out of sleep, wanting to stay awake for the scenery and the gentle light, but constantly being lulled back to slumber. Just outside Rotorua we pulled in, had a fish and chip supper, a couple of beers and the best of company to end a great day.

Bay of Islands, Northlands, New Zealand 21st Sept

Well, there were no taps on the window last night (despite being parked right by a gorgeous little lake with tiny moored boats and great back drop), however, when we opened the curtains we became face to face with nosey neighbours that had come to check us out. I went out to talk to them and we had a lovely 6am breakfast with them in the fresh morning air. They made me laugh with their funny antics and they nearly ate me out of bread. We wanted to go for a walk so we said goodbye to them - we walked off down the street and they waddled off back to the lake quacking goodbye. We couldn't have chosen a better place to spend our first night. The town was such a sweetie! Tiny with a wide trickling stream, the oldest stone building and the oldest wooden building in NZ right by the stream. We walked to a Maori village - large authentic and very interesting. I love learning about different cultures and especially hearing the stories and legends that accompany them. Then we went on to Rainbow Falls - and like the name suggests, the wide deep falls were crowned with rainbows. What a morning. To say that I didn't want to come to NZ, I'm certainly having a good time! Drove up towards the Bay of Islands with the lovely and changing scenery at every turn. Relaxed.Stopped off at a couple of small towns which were 'just as sweet as they could be' ...(mmm, can see I'm going to be over using the word sweet!) There are flowers everywhere - bursting out at you. Boarded a small car ferry from Paihato to Russel and found Russel to be sooo much cuter- How? As we walked around this town felt as though I was in fairy land. Wanted to pinch the town's cheeks but ended up just saying 'ooooo' alot. Drove around the coast with stunning views of the island littered green sea. Everywhere has Moari names which are very confusing as they're all so similar. The people greet you with smiles - but why wouldn't you be smiling here? Drove the scenic route back south and decided to keep on going - through a magical Aukland at night with its lights from the skyscrapers dappling the harbour - till we at last fell into bed at Miranda.

Aukland, New Zealand 20th Sept

Today we picked up ur new home for the next 3 weeks (complete with toilet, shower, cooker and fridge) and felt excited to have the open road infront of us. What a suprise the countryside is already. It's changed so much in such a small distance. Yes there are bits that look similar to England - rolling pastures, grazing sheep and grand old 'Constable' trees, but, also pampas grass, reeds, yuckas, giant black stemed ferns and stout lush palm trees. It's like driving through an endless botanical garden, where all the contrasting species are displayed side by side. We've also seen narrow shallow strips of beach with moorland shrubs and hills behind. Not bad for our first day! The houses here are deliciously sweet. Small wooden, painted delicate lilacs and 'Love heart' colours, with wooden awnings and delicately carved latticework. They look like pretty ladies surrounded by flowers - or are they all just versions of the gingerbread house? We went to the Waipaua Kauri Forest which though dense and lush, was as silent as could be - spooky. Saw the famousTe Matua Ngahere (father of the forest) - with its 5m diameter trunk & probably 4000yrs old - it certainly was! Continued driving and stopped off at the coast a couple of times for little walks. Found the Kiwis lovely - so friendly and really kind and cheery. Pushed on and it was finally dark when we spotted a place to pull up for the night. Feel shattered and as we snuggle into bed can't help but feel like someone will be tapping on the window and asking us to move along.

Auckland, New Zealand Wed 19th September

(first of all an apology for how tediously boring and mundane the previous entry was – but it did actually feel good to be doing normal-type things.) – as it did today, working out plans and routes etc Booked the van ( an absolute luxury compared with what we’ve lived with over the last 9 months) and had a stroll (found a Camden

Buenos Aires, Argentina - Aukland, New Zealand 17th – 18th September

Boarded our 1.20am Monday morning plane with much reluctance. I really don’t want to leave South America. Was feeling absolutely shattered, but couldn’t sleep at all as there was too much buzzing around in my head: what an achievement our Washington DC to Buenos Aires travels were; the different countries and experiences; thinking how weird it will be to understand the small talk on a bus, or to be able to ask for anything and be completely understood, were all swimming in a big mush. Was quite a flight: probably as it was emotional too – sorting stuff out in my head before NZ, but also with the thought of trying to hold onto everything as long as possible. Crossed date and time lines. Think the flight was about 13 hours and finally landed in our new and English-speaking country at 5.20am Tues 18th. Bought Lonely Planet at the airport (and hoped it would be better for NZ than Cental & South Am) then took a bus to a backpackers hostel. Gracias keeps slipping out! Everything seems so green and lush – what a contrast to Patagonia. Tall modern spacious buildings and gleaming skyscrapers pack the city streets. The bus driver was so friendly and helpful – in fact, everyone has been so far. First thing we did was to go to a cafe and have the largest plate of toast, fried eggs, baked beans, chips and brown sauce we could find, swilled down with plenty of hot tea – god it tasted like heaven! Sat by the harbour in the middle of the city in order to allow our stomaches to digest, whilst we talked about our options. Tried to sleep for an hour then lovely shower and hair wash, and out feeling like a new person to get info on camper vans. Loaded with leaflets and price sheets we returned to the harbour to work it all and make our decision (seems very reasonable), unlike the shopping I had to load up on (toiletries etc) – ouch! After sitting and going through the whole of the NZ book to see where we wanted to go, and what route to take, we felt shattered – been a long day. Sat and ate marmite on toast in our backpacker that was situated in the midst of brothels and massage parlours and reflected on my first impressions of NZ – seems really nice, the people are very (and genuinely) friendly, loads of Chinese or Malasian here as well as loads of tourists (which was a shock to the system), the weather is very pleasant – not too hot or sunny – but this doesn’t stop every Kiwi being decked out in shorts and shades. Feel quite at a loss in this country, as we are now used to the unfamiliar – but we got mail (at the consulate) from England with kind words that made us feel good. Know that it’s yet again a case of having to adjust to our environment ( and not put toilet paper in the bin, but down the toilet ) and we’ll be ok.

Buenos Aires, Argentine Sun 16th Sept
Woke still dizzy with Tango tunes and the same excitement of last night. Breakfasted in San Telmo in an old cafe with original B/W tiles & fittings. All breakfasts here are coffee and 3 croisants. Went to the market in Plaza Dorrego. Wow what a great place - great architecture and atmosphere and the whole place lined with antique stalls selling weird and wonderful stuff. There was a buzz; people playing Tangos, dancing, painting, singing. We walked aroung the small square taking in stalls of old telephones & trumpets, jewelry & hats, toys and concealed sword canes. It was a feast for the eyes and the sunshine polished the vibrance of the place & the people. Then I came across a shop that is every girls dream; an Aladin's cave full of the most beautiful antique dresses, hats, gloves, bags, hats etc - all things pretty and gossimer, a big dressing-up chest of fairy clothes! I had half an hour browsing and when I came out with saucer eyes and flushed cheeks, Simon took $100 out of his pocket and said to go in and get something - (it would be an original, always remind me of Buenos Aires, and I deserved it!) What girl would refuse? (even though it took a gentle push - what about the last 6months of budgeting? etc). At last I came out with a 1920's dress (with a bit of hummimng and harring, should I really get it?); but it hit the spot and made me feel lovely; very understated but stylish. We left the market and typically striped suited men behind and sat in the main square '5th May' till the sun went down. Ate fist cooked traditionally (a large open fire with the meat opened out down the centre and stuck over the top of it), then walked around trying to come to terms with leaving South America. I feel so sad about it - don't want to go! - it's all been so fantastic and unbelievable and I've loved all the countries. It will mean no more Spanish (yipee), but also none of that culture / lifestyle, or the work that went into exploring such a strange, diverse and different land. It's the end of our American Adventure!... but I guess there is a whole new one waiting for us on the other side (or underside) of the world!.

Buenos Aires, Argentina 15th Sept

Woke up to the noise of traffic - something that hasn't happened for a while! On the balcony I looked out across San Telmo, with it's rundown charm, large old buildings with iron balconies and a buzz in the air. Think I can say that we got a pretty good idea of BA, seeing as we spent about 7 hours walking around all the areas. Some parts are like London - grand old government buildings - but more is like a (Latin) Paris - (spirit & vibrancy). Large squares with 'toy' soldiers in top hats marching by, old ladies in real fur coats in a last chance bid at glamour, modern highrises spilling with plants, dogs in t-shirts, broadway lined with theatres and neon signs, parks with street artists & stall holders - I love this place.It shouldn't be called Buenos Aires though, but Muchas Aires as it's so windy. Went to the cemetry and saw Evita's grave (very understated at the side of all the others). This place is a mini city within the city - ornate and totally over the top mausoleums like palaces dressed with oversized weeping statues or guarding angels, each one orriginal in design & granduer. I wondered if their lives had been spent trying to outdo everyone else - coz that's certainly what they were trying to do in death. How sad .. look at my grave, see how important I must have been when I was alive! Give me a quiet plot under a tree anytime. Got back to hotel and collapsed with exhaustion. Feel a bit disapointed as I really wanted to find somewhere to see tango - but a tourist trap or cheesey show - I only wanted the real thing. I fell asleep for 20 min and when I awoke Simon had weaved his magic and found a place just around the corner! Went for a drink in a real old bar, where the landlady/lord must have been there since 1940, and nothing had changed. We got a bottle of red wine for $3 ( that's the same as a cup of tea down here), and soaked up the spit and sawdust charm. Now to 'Bar Sur'. Wow.It was perfect. Small place, only about 13 tiny tables and decorated exactly as you'd imagine (like a dim lit Chanson bar), it was stuck in the faded glamour of a fogotten past - moody, intimate. A tiny perfomance space in a clearing infront of us, a piano and the most humble and top notch waiter in DJ discreetly passing amongst the handful of clientel, who all looked like artists. The performers were wonderful characters seeped in nostalgia; Pianist 90 with sleek dyed hair, imaculate DJ, (and was that eyeliner?) looking like the poised Laurence Olivier. Singer 50ish well worn face, dressed in black and fur and jewels like an old movie star, was Argentina's Edith Piaf and sang with the immense aching that only a lifetime of broken hearts and suffering can bring, striving for one last chance that is totally romantic in it's hopelessness. Singer/guitarist with classic Argentinian hat and flower behind his ear and a mournful expression. Double act Sqeezebox and Piano (again both gentlemen of experience & years), moving, emotional and seeping with atmosphere. I was in my element (as you probably can tell). Felt like a private show. Simon ordered Champagne - couldn't have been anything else, not in this setting. Then, on came the dancers. (Wasn't sure if I'd beable to cope as I was already bursting with enjoyment). Did every woman in the audience fall in love (or lust) with the the young boy who must have been all of 18, with dashing good looks and features cut as sharp as his suit? The dancing was unbelievable, they filled the room with sexual danger and menace - the boy's passion almost abusive, but oh so compelling. They were on fire as they danced imtimately. It was like an intricate sword fight (fencing) by two equal partners - who would submit first? - Who would have ultimate power? I was enthralled. I never realised how complexed a dance it was (suppose you only really see corney versions). Being so close you could breathe them in in all their rawness. Wonderful. More acts, each one rotating in a never ending loop, but never repeating. Another bottle of Champagne and on the 2nd Tango set the boy got me up to dance.Was swept across the floor by the brooding smouldering young boy (sorry Simon) and when I told him that I used to be a dancer (but never Tango) it was a green light to him, and he span and whipped me around and plunged me into backbends. Ah! As the night wore on the dance sets got more and more extreme and powerful - impossible intricate footwork and daring lifts and spins which produced a sharp intake of breath from the audience. At last tore ourselves away 1.30ish, more drunk oon the vibrant passion soul of the place than the Champagne ( I'm sure Simon will write otherwise though). This was better than I ever could have imagined, and the best possible way to say goodbye to South America!

Buenos Aires, Argentina Fri 14th Sept

As we came in to the outskirts of Buenos Aires it was exactly like driving into London - and for a moment I thought I'd come full circle. After over 20 hours of travelling I was glad to get on the underground and get to a hotel and shower. Hotel was like in La Paz - very large faded grand building, with tall ceilings, marble staircases, mosaic courtyards and shutters opening out onto ornate balconies - but- rundown and empty now, except for the old bloke at reception night and day. Had a long walk around and got to see quite a bit of the City, which reminded me alot of London in parts (large old government buildings). I prefer the area where we are staying (San Telmo) with it's old crumbly thick buildings with real character, balconies, shutters, faded colours and the charm that decadent decay brings. It has stories behind it - each place has a tale to tell. I faded fast so ate, then sat in the main square eating naughty pastries & taking in the grand buildings and palm trees , toy soldiers in top hats marching by to lower the flag, dogs dressed in doggy tshirts and jumpers and the relaxed people toing and froing. Had a beer in a local bar and retired to our balconie that reminded me of the balconie on our first night in Mexico - gosh, we've com a long long way together...

To Buenos Aires, Argentina 13th Sept

Much colder today with lots of wind (we were lucky it wasn't yesterday!) Had an easy morning: postcards, pick up email and then pizza before getting the station for the 3pm bus (which didn't actually come till 4pm).
[Must take this opportunity to say that on Tues we heard the terrible news of what happened in the United States. At the station we saw footage and it seemed even more unreal - like a film. Can't believe how terrible it all is ( and the disasterous knock on effects it will have) I hope that none of you have lost anyone to what happened, and that the western world will handle this sensibley yet effectively].
Left Puerto Madryn and it's Welsh tea houses behind. The bus journey was the same Patagonian scenery as before, with only a superb burning sunset to lift my heart from the sadness that the trip is nearly over, and, sight of the road (straight, endless, stretching out forever to the horizon) that was giving me a secret message that indeed the road never ends, and that it is you who gets off of it - and - can get back on whenever you want. I have to remember that it is only the end of our American Adventure and that we have a whole new one waiting for us in the South Seas.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina 12th Sept

Ahhh, nice to sleep in a bed! Mini bus picked us up at 8am along with 3 Swiss girls. Our guide looked like a hardline criminal, but was a big softy: nice, helpful and chatty. First stop was a museum, which was v interseting - the best thing being the Whale skeleton (crazy alien shape- especially the head). At Pirimades we had to wait for the next boat (45min) so strolled down the beach (lovely weather again) and was amazed that we could see Whales out in the distance - couldn't wait to get out in the boat now. Small boat with only 8 people in (glad we are out of season and away from the crowds) I stood out on the very bow of the boat and within 5 min we saw our first whale. It was on it's back with it's flippers stuck up in the air sunni

Travelling to Puerto Madryn, Argentina 10th & 11th Sept

Up at 5 to find it had continued snowing all night and settled about half a foot deep. The bus company sent a courtesy cab to pick us up and take us the 3 blocks to the bus- which we were very grateful for as it was slippy and blowing a gale of thick large flakes of snow. Strange thing for a bus company to do, but I suppose it was a good way to get the bus off on time! The bus had a mesh grill on the front which was covered in snow; I've no idea how the driver saw anything, and going over the mountain pass was scarey stuff. It was so deep, you had no visability and could feel the bus skidding. If it was in England they'd have closed it off. The snow scenery continued for 2 hours - now the twisted tortured trees look at home. At last snow gives way to sunshine and endless yellow plains, like someone slipped a coloured filter infront of my eyes. At the ferry crossing at Bahia Azul to get out of Tierra Del Fuego the wind was blowing so hard, we had to wait - and wait - and wait. 4.5 hours later we get the go ahead, but this is worse that the Golfo de Penas and Simon did his best to distract me, but I could see the fear in his eyes. Waves crashed over the side of the ferry, over the top of the cars and broke on the bus window. We were glad to get off in one piece and felt sorry for the 40 or so lorries qued in a long jam waiting to cross. Arrived in Rio Gallegos at 9pm (14.5hours later) and caught the 9.30 bus to Puerto Madryn (around 18 hours). At least it was a luxery bus with reclining seats, and we had a good view from out the upstairs front window of the Patagonian land that stretched on and on forever unchanging. There were no villages - nothing only stunning skies and clouds. At last in Puerto Madryn felt instantly relaxed by this sweet seaside town. Got in at 5pm, got a room and then had a walk on the seafront with all the towns people taking a stroll, jogging, doing Judo on the beach and generally chilling out. Love;ly. Got back, collapsed on the bed and fell asleep.

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 9th Sept

Long and short of running around trying to sort out travel today is that everywhere is closed as it's Sunday, so can't buy a plane ticket (same price as bus but 1 hour not 14! ) so will have to get first bus. Now that that boring stuff is out of the way I can tell you about this most southernly of towns. It really feels like it's at the end of the world - you could get trapped down here - or maybe it's like the Bermuda Triangle and once you cross over that snowy mountain pass, you can never go back. The town is sweet and not unlike others down here, but is cut off by the Beagle Channel at the bottom of it and the mountains at the top of it and all day long it snowed! We won't be having a white Christmas in Oz; so we had it early. Feels like the Antarctic is just over the way, and despite the fast blowing snow - or because of it - I feel exhilerated. Glad we came here even though it's a long way to come for only a day. Gosh, Tierra Del Fuego - land of Fire AND snow!

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 8th Sept

Got rid of the rest of the group this morning at 7 as we set off for Ushuaia - the most southerly town in the WORLD! So wanted to go to Tierra Del Fuego - I remember seeing it on a map years ago, and thinking how mad it would be to go there. Never thought I would though! Mind you it was a long journey (14ish hours) from Punta Arenas through Argentinian Patagonia, which is even more barren - though it does have an amazing sky/clouds. (decided I'm using the word 'amazing' far too much - apologies!) French girl on bus (who could talk for France) gave us good info on NZ and Oz, and we gave her info on the rest of South America. Stopped at a couple of places - nothing in the middle of nothing. I'm so excited by it though. Do you think I'm weird? Closer to Ushuaia we have to go over the mountains that are deep in snow; it piled high at the side of the road, which is itself very icey. Can only see a bit of the town in the dark - larger than I expected, but has a strange feel - can't wait till morning!

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile 7th Sept

Wonderful and much needed sleep and breakfasted at 9ish. Found out next bus to Punta Arenas isn't till 1pm - day went downhill from there really! Did lots of running around, postcards bought, written and posted, phoned Vernan - happy 80th birthday! Also tried to get info for rest of travel but so much conflicting information it was impossible. Sadly 4 of our boat friends are still travelling in our direction (had enough now - and the Irish don't speak a word of Spanish, which to my shame (or is it) I find embarrassing - plus, they have even less of a clue about arrangements and just making a confusing situation worse). Nice ride south through similar landscape, which I found calming. In Punta Arenas it was the same - stress stress stress. We have so many plans and alternatives plans and not an ounce of solid info - ggrrr. Got some packet food (instant pasta) to take into Argentina as it's so expensive. Simon went off to book - oh, I'm not going into it, too complicated and would take far too long - hey there are better things you could be doing with your time! Went to bed tired and wound up - we've just got to take things by chance.

Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina 6th Sept

Bus picked us up at 7am and another lovely day. (Man at hotel said he couldn't believe our luck - best 2 days weather all year!) Great countryside going up Chile and into Argentina near Torres Del Paine, where it then changed to the bleak ongoing Patagonian land that was unchanged for hours (except the odd group of twisted trees - some of which wore soft beards of light green moss - and the odd wandering herd of sheep). The starkness was lovely though - there is so much space. Saw the first sight of the glacier and got out of the car for a better look. I stood there thinking "I can't imagine it" - then realised that I didn't have to as it was right infront of me - but didn't seem real and just couldn't take it in. Arrived close up at Moreno Glacier at 1.45 and were luck enough to have it practically to ourselves. Si and I ran off (the group is nice nice enough, but talking mindless rubbish to no-clue idiots that just don't 'get it' doesn't appeal to me) and enjoyed over 2 hours wandering around on our own. There are walkways on various levels that take you to either side, down on a level so that you are looking up to it (55metres tall) or higher up so that you can see over the whole thing (14km long). This close it was even more surreal - too much to take in. The sheer scale of it coming down from between the mountains, an endless field of shafts of sharp jagged towers of ice. Amazing. It illuminates blue and the more you look the more details you see, like your brain in letting you take it in slowly, otherwise it would overload. The shapes are beautiful. Saw 2 giant towers fall off with a thunderous crash that echoed forever, and made a huge slow motion wave as they hit the water - but never came back up. Could hear lots of other cracking and calving - but it's too huge to see unless they happen right at the front. Can't believe this has been here since the Ice Age! It captivated and enchanted me. The drive back we were delayed as 3 of group wanted to try and sort out air tickets at an agency in Calafate and were ages! Then immigration decided to play up and keep us a while, which meant that we didn't get in until 10.30pm (wooried we'd miss the Chilean border this side, but still open when we arrived). Felt so sorry for the driver as it was pitch black, and the bumpiest dirt road that threw us all over. Went to bed exhausted by the past 2 days (and the boat trip too) and think about all I have seen and experience. Feel like I've run with the wild and flown with the free. Held the silence of the world in a single breath. I've walked with nature, hand in hand with her cruelty and kindness, and always overshadowed by her magnificence. I have beheld her secret miracles with a soul of wonder. And, I have seen through the eyes of god.

Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina 6th Sept

Bus picked us up at 7am and another lovely day. (Man at hotel said he couldn't believe our luck - best 2 days weather all year!) Great countryside going up Chile and into Argentina near Torres Del Paine, where it then changed to the bleak ongoing Patagonian land that was unchanged for hours (except the odd group of twisted trees - some of which wore soft beards of light green moss - and the odd wandering herd of sheep). The starkness was lovely though - there is so much space. Saw the first sight of the glacier and got out of the car for a better look. I stood there thinking "I can't imagine it" - then realised that I didn't have to as it was right infront of me - but didn't seem real and just couldn't take it in. Arrived close up at Moreno Glacier at 1.45 and were luck enough to have it practically to ourselves. Si and I ran off (the group is nice nice enough, but talking mindless rubbish to no-clue idiots that just don't 'get it' doesn't appeal to me) and enjoyed over 2 hours wandering around on our own. There are walkways on various levels that take you to either side, down on a level so that you are looking up to it (55metres tall) or higher up so that you can see over the whole thing (14km long). This close it was even more surreal - too much to take in. The sheer scale of it coming down from between the mountains, an endless field of shafts of sharp jagged towers of ice. Amazing. It illuminates blue and the more you look the more details you see, like your brain in letting you take it in slowly, otherwise it would overload. The shapes are beautiful. Saw 2 giant towers fall off with a thunderous crash that echoed forever, and made a huge slow motion wave as they hit the water - but never came back up. Could hear lots of other cracking and calving - but it's too huge to see unless they happen right at the front. Can't believe this has been here since the Ice Age! It captivated and enchanted me. The drive back we were delayed as 3 of group wanted to try and sort out air tickets at an agency in Calafate and were ages! Then immigration decided to play up and keep us a while, which meant that we didn't get in until 10.30pm (wooried we'd miss the Chilean border this side, but still open when we arrived). Felt so sorry for the driver as it was pitch black, and the bumpiest dirt road that threw us all over. Went to bed exhausted by the past 2 days (and the boat trip too) and think about all I have seen and experience. Feel like I've run with the wild and flown with the free. Held the silence of the world in a single breath. I've walked with nature, hand in hand with her cruelty and kindness, and always overshadowed by her magnificence. I have beheld her secret miracles with a soul of wonder. And, I have seen through the eyes of god.

Torres Del Paine, Patagonia, Chile 5th Sept

Off at 7.30 in glorious blue skies and sunshine through Patagonia (which seemed to me like the Altiplano) - endless golden tufted grasses, strange greens and burnt browns & small lakes mirroring mountains. Trees were weird though, like a cartoon evil forest, all twisted and tortured and bare except for the odd 'pompoms' of spikey mustard greeen growth. Beauty in barreness. Saw the famous 'Towers of Pain' and know why they are named so - ouch!. The surrounding mountains and the 'Horns' were all covered in deep snow, but not the bare granite towers. Went to a lake infront of it, bright green with white mineral deposits around the edge. Another river further round was stunning as the bed was made from a slate-like rock that had eroded in steps creating a gentle terraced waterfall, with mangled trees on the near bank and Torres Del Paine on the other. Through the countryside we saw herds of wild Guanacos (llama / Vicuña family) Giant eagles, Ñundu (which are Emu/Ostriches, and look so bizarre down here), bushy foxes after over-wooly sheep and Condors. Condors are magnificent, especially when flying close to you as their sheer size it so impressive ( 10 foot wingspan). Everything you see is a sight to savour. I love the intensity of the colours and the light. Next another waterfall, but steep and fast flowing, where rainbows arched over it picture perfect. Simon and I climbed all around. Upstream through prickly brush we found where the ice melt from the mountain made the rapid river that ran into the waterfall. Everything from the sky to the mountains to the snow and the river shone etheral blue. We tasted the water - pure and fresh. Then on to the Glacier Grey (or as near as we could get without a 2 day hike. Walked through a forest of bare broken trees (not suprised as winds in Summer can reach 150km per hour, to the black sand of the lake bed, and off into the distance framed by an amazing sight! Snow mountains with the glacier inbetween like a wall of water frozen in mid-gush, which then broke up into floating ice bergs of all sizes and the most amazingly creative shapes, and spilled towards us and lake's shore whilst gleaming bright blue. Simon and I had a picnic by the water's edge and were dazzled by the sun on the water shining a widening stream of silver tinsle to us. As we walked around the lake the colours changed; deepening or brightening - and there was calving, and large pieces of ice fell off larger icebergs and crashed in to the lake. We walked up and along the cliff at the side of the lake (which was lush alpine forest) and sat at the end looking down onto it all. It was so peaceful. Spectacular drive back (couple more stops) - was shattered, but the sun warmed the hills, grasses and snow with the Midas Touch before turning the sky pink, and lifted me. Back in Puerto Natales 12 hours later, exhausted but full of life and sights. Never thought it would be so amazing. Really really enjoyed it. I'm blown away. Back at the hotel ate pasta and had a beer, but already feel full on today. Been unbeleiveable really.

Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile, 4th Sept

Anouncement at 6.45am to get up and see the 'Muy Lindo' scenery. I managed to get my drunken head off the pillow, but there was no rousing Simon. Wow ... the best yet. How can I tell you- mountains closer and bigger and the fjiords even narrower (sounds just the same eh?), but, what a sunrise! It was more like sunset, with the whole sky burning intense firey reds and blacks. I didn't care about my hangover, just stood open mouthed. We sailed this way for about an hour with the sky brightening to amber, then gold and being led through the channels by 2 dolphins. I always thought that paradise was hot, and could never imagine the beauty of it down here. Felt close to my hero, Earnest Shackleton (the Antarctic explorer from the early 1900's - an amazing man of courage and leadership) on this boat trip and feel for the first time 'Why'. It's amazing. As we pulled into Puerto Natales 9.30ish (Si finally up - but still drunk I think!) was shocked at how it looked. Deadly mountains enclosing it on 3 sides, the port on the fourth and just infront a piece of barren flat land where the dinky sized toy town sat. It was so isolated - reminded me of Uyuni in Bolivia. 10 of us all went to the same hotel (after price negotiations by yours truely) and started trying to sort out what trips were on offer. To cut a long story short (and a very frustrating one) we went to several places back and forth negotiating prices, and sorting out who wanted to do what, which drove me mad and took up most of the day. Eventually got everything sorted (though I think the man in our hotel who also runs the tour agency now weeps when he sees me coming). So tired, but checked email - lots of lovely birthday greetings - thanks everyone, cooked pasta, went for a walk with Si along the bay to see the pink sunset and then rang mum and dad to say that I was still alive after the boat trip (but forgot it was late, so woke them up -oops sorry). Fell into bed looking forward to enjoying the next 2 days' trips and hopefully all my hard work paying off.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 3 - Mon 3rd Sept

Up early to a kiss, a happy birthday wish and to see sunrise as we came into a bay especially to look at the scenry. It was a good start to a good day. We were surrounded by enormous bleak icy mountains (so much bigger than before and now covered almost entirely in snow). Felt I was in the kingdom of the Snow Queen as first beems of light tried to break through the snow clouds. Was I still asleep and dreaming? No I know I'm awake as it's so cold! I thought the other scenry was amazing, but now it's a hundred times better, and so close. Rugged knarled impenatrable forests, small islands and domeneering black and white mountains. (at lunch Simon had arranged for me to have a special meal of salmon and also had pineapple plonk - but it was a bit rough). We are now passing through narrow fjiords with lanes winding off to both sides and I am on a high. There are dozens of rainbows; some to our left and some to our right, and some we sail through - it's magical. Later there was an even better birthday present - a visit from 3 dolphins! Yipee! Then in the water came small icebergs floating past - hundreds - from 4 foot to about 50, all shining turquoise-white. The amazing 'Oo look, ahh look' sights continued and it's awful as I don't have any better words to describe it! It's quite exhausting taking it all in though and I'm full on it. Weather was lovely and clear and not so cold, so could spend the whole day above deck enjoying it. I was rather a happy bunny (you don't get many birthdays like this).For the evening meal I put on my glitter tiara (from Simon - knows me so well!) and went down to join the other passengers. I was the party queen of the ship as I sipped wine, enjoyed my dinner and opened my present. Everyone was in a good mood and hung around chatting. We were told to clear the table and were moved to near the bar where there was mood lighting (so nieve) where the captain had come to say hello (didn't realise) and the staff and the passengers started to sing 'Happy Birthday', then cake was brought out ( made especially by cook today - what else but an Arctic Roll!!) swiftly followed by 4 bottles of Pisco and we all got very drunk on Pisco Sours. It was a fantastic evening (Simon had pùt so much planning into it - and it certainly paid off) and everyone had a brilliant time. Last night on board and a great end to a truly amazing trip. What a birthday! Yep, I rather like being 31!

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 2 - 2nd Sept

Simon and I got up early to watch the sunrise at 6.30am. It was freezing on deck and blowing a gale, but it was fantastic. Was stunned by the hugeness of the mountains, and they were so close, starting at the waters edge. Rugged and snow capped they were gently amazing when softened by the colours of the morning. Violet, mauve then pink - but oh so subtle. Spent the morning outside watching layers of green craggy mountains in varying degrees of snow cover. Had a game of giant draughs painted out on the floor of top deck against biting winds, saw a couple of curious seals, had lunch and then back outside to make the most of it all. Now going through a narrower passage and heading out to the open sea. All of a sudden I saw movement in the distance and called out to everyone. We all rushed over to Starboard to see the movement coming towards us ... it was a herd of dolphins!! They came right up to the ship and we all hung over as they leaped out of the water in athletic arcs and swam along with us. They were so fast and powerful and graceful. Felt like I could touch them they were so close. It was so exhillerating and heard myself yelping. Then they continued in the direction we'd come from. Seemed they were just as excited by the encounter as we were because when they were further from the bough they were still leaping, and one of them was jumping high in the air straight up and doing a sideways bellyflop crashing back down into the sea (like what whales do). What a supprise, and real rush. (too bad camera inside, aswell as Simon who only saw them in the distance). What a birthday treat! Continued through the beautiful scenery and after lunch we started to sway quite alot ... but this wasn't the Golfo yet! Half of the people were sick by dinner. I'd taken tablets and was handling it well. Only had a couple of bites of food though to be on the safe side. Weather conditions got increasingly worse and concentrated on the video to take my mind off of it. (Speed 2 - the one set on a boat - someone has a pretty nasty sence of humour!) Couldn't look out of the windows (which was a shame as there was a large full moon shinning like a new sovereign lighting up the snow and sky) as you saw only all sea or all sky. Really rolling around and hard to stand, but not the nightmare I'd expected. Captain said we were lucky as it was a very calm crossing and was usually going high the same but crashing down harder, and really threw you in all directions. It was bad enough thank you. (one girl was happy as she'd been sick only once and when her friend did the crossing 2 years ago she was sick 32 times!) In bed was tucked in tight and felt I was on a rollercoaster - should be over by 3am though, and tommorrow is my birthday.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 1 - 1st Sept

Herd curnching like the lifting of anchour at about 3am and felt happy to at last be on our way. When we got up Simon went to look outside and returned saying it was lovely. I rushed out all excited, only to find that we were still sat in the harbour in Puerto Montt! Breakfast everyone came down puzzled and just laughed, then shortly after 9am we finally got underway. Phew! On deck we watched P Montt fade away into the distance with almost a sence of achievement - and certainly relief - as we sailed away through a rainbow, which I took to be a good omen at last. Spent most of the day out on deck checking out the view ; quite a wide channel with the rainy island of Chiloe on one side and volcanoes on the other. Returned inside only to warm up or when the rain blew too hard. They put on a video for us ... Titanic! Ha ha very funny - lets hope I still find it amusing going through the Golfo! Watched the long sunset up on deck. It was beautiful. Ice pinks and chilled blues spreading over the whole sky and shining off the mountains - so unusual. Tucked up in our warm cabin we were quietly, content and glad we'd decided on the trip. Wonder what tomorrow will bring?

Puerto Montt, Chile 31st Aug

Exciting day! Got to the dock at 11.30 and looking forward to our 2pm sail, only to be told that the boat had been delayed to 9pm (check in 6pm) What a let down. We had the whole day to kill and the nice blue skies didn't last long. Soon we were drenched as our coats need re-proofing and decided to buy cheapo rain ponchos. Time went too slow ('watched kettle' and all that.) Nice lunch at restuarant overlooking port and seals - be nice to be back to plain (and much less) food. Back at the boat there were only 15 people for the trip! (I had guessed 30, Simon 60). We boarded the huge ship (looked sturdy enough for bad travel) via a cargo lift up past the lorries etc and then walked up to the top deck and lounge. Lovely & warm inside (didn't expect) and we were assisgned cabins. We'd paid to share but got a cabin to ourselves and upgraded to private bathroom - so good start. Explored the ship and were all excited again. It looked so pretty out on deck with the shore lights spilling out into the harbour. Had dinner (3 course and plenty) and got chatting to the other passengers (all different nationalities). We were then told that we wouldn't be leaving until 12 midnight ( bad weather conditions further south - starting to worry). Stayed in the diningroom chatting to an Irish couple and at midnight we still hadn't left. The whole ship seems deserted except for the 4 of us and all I can think of is the Mari Celest! Now told that we'll be leaving at 3am, so said goodbye to the twinkling Puerto Montt and went to bed not knowing what on earth we were doing here - or what would happen to us!

Puerto Montt, Chile 25th - 30th Aug

Rained and blew all night long, and it wasn't until we left the island that we left the weather behind too. This time in Puerto Montt Simon knew exactly where to go for lodging, and we are really living in style in our very own appartment. It's great, but so weird to be in a place that has all that a small flat would, and, is all to ourselves. Hospedajies are great as they allow you to use the kitchen, but they can be a pretty strange experience. Some are more hotel-like, but others are just a couple of rooms extra in a person's house and you find yourself rummaging through their cupboards and belongings trying to find a knife, whilst the husband is stood ironing, or sat trying to watch tv with the family on the couch next to you, or going about their normal lives, making phone calls, having friends around etc. It's all a little too personal, or at best feels like a flat share with complete strangers for one night. Therefore we are making the most of our little flat till the boat comes on Friday. Most of our time here has been spent walking around the shops and markets (they have many stalls selling a variety of horific looking seaweeds and shellfish which are strung out onto long strings and hung up to dry out), or going down to the bay to watch the boats, or further around the prettier side to watch the pelicans and the seals. We have also spent much time cooking (you can get a two and a half foot fresh salmon for about 2pound 50p and they gut, clean and fillet it for free) so we have indulged ourselves, and are back to having a normal bit of weight on us at last (and I have once again become used to butter and milk after a diet void of both for many months -and at first found both of them far too rich for my system when I did start eating them again). It has rained every day, though we have had a couple of nice afternoons too, and we go for a walk despite what the weather is doing anyway. And of course we have had television (plenty of 'Friends' and evening films) but even that has become old hat now, and doesn't hold my interest much. Enjoyed the time here, it's given us a bit of a breather, but tommorrow we go on our seafaring adventure and though I am very nervous about the rough part of the crossing, I am looking forward to the rest of it, and, on the last day on board I will have my birthday - so that should be one to remember! 29 Western Samoa,South Pasific Island, 30 London, England, 31 Puerto Natales, Chilean Antarctic.

Castro, Chiloe, Chile 24th Aug

Woke to the same sound as when I drifted off; the rain against the window pane. Breakfasted alone as we are the only people staying here (no suprise there).Caughth bus further south to Castro , the capital of the island. The countryside was beautiful in it's harshness, like the wild moors of northern England or how I'd imagine the Shetland Islands, but more rich, fertile and fecund despite (or more likely because of) it's endless opressive rain. Wooden houses in the middle of the countryside stand alone except for the old fashioned metal milk churns that wait by the gate. A place left in time, forgotten by people - but who could blame them? Was hard to find somewhere open, but eventually got a corner room, all in pink, with a good view out to the lake (or so I'm told - the weather being so grim that you can't see that much). Went for a walk around the bay and had a look at the Palofitos (wooden houses that look regular from the road, but the backs are built out on large stilts over the sea). They're painted lively candy colours - like ones in Belize, but looked lost, and I felt they should be in a happy sunshinny place, and not here, where an arc would be more appropriate. As we made our way through the rain and the gale, old women stared out madly from doorways or piles of soaked firewood, curtains twitched and packs of dogs more akin to shaggy great wolves prowled the streets. This is a strange place - like you can visit, but might never return. Found a restuarant and ate a great fish dinner and had to go back eventually as our soaked clothes were now turning just a little too cold in the wind. The room is cold but dry and it roars and pours outside. I try to read but my mind keeps wandering off to Dorothy as I feel that the house will surely be blown to Oz. How can people live here? This island is famous for it's none-stop rain. OK, you may ask why we came here - maybe it's something to do with variety and spices, or maybe it's simply because I have a wanderlust for the world in all its marvelous compulsive contrasts.

Ancud, Chiloe, Chile 23rd Aug

Naughty naughty I had peaches and cream for breakfast! Caught 10.45am bus to Ancud on the island of Chiloe. We passed through misty moorlike terrain with deep rusty grasses. Very atmospheric. The ferry crossing was a little rough, and made me wonder if I am actually insane to agree to this long southern boat trip. Got a nice hotel and headed out to explore in the rain. Found a restaurant overlooking the harbour, which looked like the little fishing village of Howth near Dublin ( or infact any other little fishing village with small hardy boats, wooden shack houses that have seen the harshest of weather, and low lying clouds/mist/rain. They all look the same - forgotten by people and time.) Upstairs we had a wonderful view. It was posh and empty - there just aren't any tourists of any kind - but the restaurant was all laid out and ready waiting, like a bus load would come through it's doors at any moment. As we ate our soup we watched about 6 seals playing in the bay. In perfect sync to the soothing lyrical music playing in the restaurant ( or was it a siren? - or the call of the sea? ). Tails flip, flippers turn and wave and they frolic and somersault out of the water. It seemed so normal, yet so beautiful it suddenly made me feel very sad for all the seals I'd seen (looking happy enough at the time) in zoos or sealife centres. This was real and powerful and mesmerising - but ordinary (like watching dogs chase sticks - or their tails). They were happy and were free. You couldn't help but feel lifted and touched. Later we went around the tiny local museumn, and the old turrets outside, then returned to our room to dry off. We had an evening in with the tv and a bottle of wine, feeling cosy as we listened to the relentless rain beat out time on our window.

Puerto Montt, Chile 22nd Aug

Only remembered this morning that we called into a Tex Mex restaurant for a coffee ( which when Simon ordered turned into "Una pitcher de beer por favor" - mmmmm!?) Bit of a haze, but I do remember that we had our bit of revenge on the old bat in the hospedaje as we had to wake her up to let us in! The following morning over breakfast she was a little kinder, despite going on that we must have drunk Pisco (as she said she could smell it) We weren't that bad! Half an hour later we were in Puerto Montt and instantly liked it. Throughout this region the houses are wooden and most are covered in wooden tiles shaped like armadillo scales. They make the houses look like large feathery brown owls sitting along the pavements. So cute. There is also alot of German architecture - especially the churches. We are staying in a large (& friendly this time) hospedaje and can cook for ourselves in the kitchen. Took a nice walk along the harbour and made enquiries about the boat down to Puerto Natales (by Torres del Paine) in the southern tip of Chile as close to the Antarctic as you can get. We decided to do it. It's a big freight ship and it takes 3 nights 4 days going through the Fjords. It should be a real adventure, though I'm really frightened. I'm not too hot on boats to start with, but this one has a notoriously bad part of the journey when it goes out into the Golfo. They say that it rocks so violently that you shouldn't eat or drink before hand and that it's better if you go to bed (coz the stewards make them so tight that there isn't much chance of falling out) and to take seasickness pills. You will think the boat will go down - but that's just how it is! This isn't going to be nice!

Puerto Varas, Chile Tuesday 21st August

Up early to get bus to Valdavia to spend our second anniversary somewhere new. However, when the bus pulled in, we didn't like the look of the place too much so stayed on to Frutilla. We were expecting a beautiful lake town, but when we got off the bus and explored the one street town, it was more or less closed and we couldn't even see the lake due to heavy hanging cloud/fog. It was cold and miserable and not a place for celebration, so we got a bus to Puerto Montt, past Nordic forests and English fields, but the bus terminated at Puerto Varas. It looked ok, and we'd spent most of the day travelling so we opted to stay. Si found a hospedaje - small house & room & a real Hitler of an owner who grilled us about giving her a photocopy of the passports to copy our detail from. We both bit our tongues and breathed deeply. Wash and changed,& I put on lipstick and mascara and couldn't do a thing with my hair and ended up putting it up - which usually is ok, but when I'd finished I felt like a 5yr old American beauty pagent victim - totally unused to being 'Glam' and totally OTT for this sleepy foggy town. Had a malt ber till it was a reasonable time to eat and went to a restaurant called Gorditos (and we certainly were!) It was located in the doorway of the fish market, but it was more like the doorway to the past. Two soliders sat sat in their smart green unifroms, with their hats cast onto the backs of nearby chairs, the waiter was in black jacket and dickie bow, and the small restuarant looked like what you'd find in France in the fourties. It was like I was seeing in black and white. My hair etc now fitted in perfectly in our little time capsule. Felt typsy after the pisco sour cocktail we had (but went onto a bottle of white wine and half a red! - oops) The meal was fantastic. Huge fresh fish soaked in butter, garlic etc and topped with fresh juicey prawns - oh double yum! We had such a lovely evening, and Simon gave me a postcard of where we are today with a poiniant and beautiful quote on the back (sorry, but some things aren't meant to be shared) and a present. It was the rock that I got Simon to break off one of the boulders in Tupiza ; that is translucent white on the inside and the colours of the valley on the outside. Might sound pretty rubbish to you, but really meant alot to me - something I can't really explain (or rather, aren't going to get into). Felt only a little bad that I hadn't got Simon anything; in London I used to get Simon a card for every tiny occasion (I guess I had to try and put my dreams and hopes and love onto paper to make them more real), but out here, now, we are living the dream, and every day I can see how much Simon loves me, and he sees how much I love him. Words alone no longer are important, and actions are what speak loudest of all.

Pucon, Chile 20th August
More of the same today. Swapped two more books (reading about a book a week) and spent the morning by the lake. Then we seperated for an hour - I wanted to find another thin but warm layer top and a lipliner (for use on anniversary and birthday) and can do that sort of shopping better on my own. Was v pleased with bargin shopping I got & also tried to get a little something for Si for our anniversary - but couldn't find anything he would like! Had lots of good chats (was getting a bit down about my Spanish since being in Chile as can't understand them, and feel my speaking skills likewise going down the pan) but today conversation flowed freely and naturally on both sides and I really enjoyed it. Got increasingly hot and by the time I got back to Simon I was stripped down to a tee-shirt and making the most of the weather. That hour is the longest we've been apart for months, and felt good to be back together again (god, we're going to be such social misfits by the end of this trip... if we weren't already!). Spicy bean and potatoe stew re-hash of the pasta sauce and out again to make most of weather, and sat in our usual place by the lake in only a vest! Beautiful romantic sunset and walked back home past the many birds of prey that live here - to... more food of course!

Pucon, Chile Sunday 19th Aug

3 bad dreams last night, but nice blue sky through heavy white clouds outside and altogether much sunnier day. Breakfast of....soup and out to explore. Sat by lake (I can see that this is going to get repetitive) and watched children playing by upturned row boats on the black sand beach and a toddler wander into the sea before realising what he'd done and let out a loud suprised cry. Gulls divebombed us with short skreechy calls and we had to sheild the sun from our eyes. The scenery is in 3 layers; first being all shades of green pines and firs and dotted cabins and lodges, the second being steep nearby mountains covered in dark trees, which in turn are covered in a light dusting of snow as if sprinkled by caster sugar, and the third being the snow covered volcano like a chain smoker constantly puffing out smoke rings to impress. Back at the hotel we started cooking the next meal.... huge pasta sauce, and went back out to check email. Everything finally working, so transfered the blog I wrote in Santiago on disk, onto the net. Phew. Back to hotel and worked through the next step of trip (and variations to plan if weather is against us.. it's off season here as it's still the end of the winter) eat the pasta meal .... mmmm, will be so fat by the time we leave here ( or well stocked up for the bad weather). Now updating this and will go back (after another stroll around) and eat more pasta and drink some wine. Glad to be relaxed and happy again. It's great here.

Pucon, Chile 18th Aug

Lovely sleep. Up, packed and on bus by 11.15am and in new hotel room in Pucon at 1pm. Hotel is in family house (no, nothing like the nut house in La Serena) and we have double bed, private bathroom (still can't get used to hot water coming from the basin tap) and use of kitchen!!!! Getting so spoiled. Rained all day. Most of the time we sat in the livingroom by the Argor type fire and watched wrestling from 1981 (ahh, fond memories of Saturday afternoons as a kid doing just the same in Sheffield - some things are the same the world over!) Used our kitchen privilages to make an enormous soup of veg and potatoes and stuffed ourselves. Finally we had a look around the town in time for sunset by the lake. The town seems great - like the posh cousin of Villaricca - with it's ski shops, fancy cosy restaurants and exquisit gift shops all looking like log cabins of the rich and famous. The wood smoke floating from the tin chimneys made it smell gorgeous and feel like Bonfire Night, whist the cold night and the glowing fairy lights made it look beautiful and feel like Christmas. It was all so so lovely. One thing that wasn't lovely was that we picked up a 'friend' who followed us everywhere for over an hour, wagging his tail and looking up at me with "I'd like you for my mummy" eyes - even putting it's paw out to me - god he knew all the tricks to tug on the old heart strings. Started to feel really sad and guilty - of course I would have loved to have taken him home - and I know he would have been the perfect pal, but I don't have a home! What can I do? At last we went into the supermarket, and as we emerged from a different exit we looked back and he was still stood at the enterance looking in after us and waiting for us. My heart nearly broke. Poor thing. Back at home more soup, and heavens opened once more as we sat warm and full by the roaring fire. As we listened to rain beating down on the roof I couldn't help but think of our little furry friend. I hope he does have a home to go to ... no can't bear to think about it. How much of a soft touch am I?

Villaricca, Chile 17th Aug

Mmmm, lovely long sleep till about 9.30am - then we were naughty and stayed in bed all morning reading and eating banana sandwiches. Washed my hair in the new shampoo and it smells like sick! Then had a go at cutting it. Not crying, so it must have gone ok - though I seemed to have had no system apart from grabbing a bit of hair and cutting it. Seemed to cut lots ( some parts many times over) but hardly any hair in the sink - strange. Also, doesn't exactly look well blended to me - and still as many split ends! Never mind, I always put it up or back so guess will just look the same as ever. Had sandwiches of Tuna fish today ( good change from cheese - yum yum). Went and sat by the lake. It's warm today, so it actually made everything seen even nicer. Tried to get online .. still with no luck, so back to the lake. The sun was just setting and colours that it cast across the water were so subtle it made you breathe gentler as if not to disturb the scene. I complained about how annoying all the blobs that I have infront of my eyes are, and just then Simon said that he had them too (1st time). He stuck his finger in his eye and wiped it all around - then said they were gone. I was reluctant to let him have a go with me as I hate messing around with eyes, and also I have had these blobs for 2 years and even visited the doctor about them, so didn't think it would do any good. 2 minutes later after my eyelids doing their best to close, and Simon's finger doing it's best to poke, I was cured. It's a miricle! Can't believe that I have spent all this time, all this frustration, all this worry, and all that was wrong was that my eyes just needed a good cleaning, like a dirty pair of spctacles! It's good to see again though. Evening spent the same way as yesterday - a beer down stairs before the pizza place - and a smile on my face.

Villaricca Chile 16th August

So glad to be out of the city (did I mention that Santiago is full of blind people - most of them selling goods on the street corners, in fact, come to think of it, the whole of Chile has been full of blind people) and back feeling like a human being. What a difference a day makes! The overnight bus was v. cold - should have known better really as we are alot further south now. However managed to get some sleep and even had a nice dream about Keanu Reeves and Robbie Williams! Si went off to find a hotel (easier said than done as it is off season and most places were closed) and I waited in the freezing cold - unable to sit on the bench as it had a thin layer of ice frozen to it. Despite the cold this is a delightful little town. I immediately felt relaxed and happy. Had a scout around and ended up down by the lake. A beautiful big blue shimmering lake with the active volcano as the perfect backdrop (and that you can see from anywhere in town - and our bedroom window). It's covered in thick white snow with a continuous puff of a cotton-wool ball of smoke being belched from the top. Where the snow stops to the edge of the town there are various pines and furs. Are we in the Alps? Feels like it.All the houses are wooden and look like log cabins and such and chug out smoke from their log fires. It's all so quaint and pretty. A real tonic for the soul. By the lake we flied high on the swings, skimmed stones, talked, had giggles on the see-saw and admired the big beyond. Tucked into cheese and bread and onions from the supermarket. Later had a beer in the cafe downstairs and wrote some postcards by the open log fire (just what we needed in todays cold cold weather. Then we went for a pizza at a place that had a special offer on - again by their open log fire- aahhh. Been a lovely cold on the outside, but sunny on the inside sort of day.

Santiago, Chile 15th August

Happy birthday to Laura - hope you had a good party! Today was better - hot shower, found a place that served us egg and chips (yipee) and then set about killing time before our 9.30pm bus. Walked around the few shops that were open (as today is a public holiday) and then found a small supermarket (yeh, on the last day!) and bought bread, cheese, crisps and...pickled onions. In the internet cafe we still have the same problem - can't use the internet, blogger or hotmail - with out it crashing. So, saved all this to a disk and will use it later when we find a cafe that actually works. Be so glad to get out of the city - it's such hard work. Sorry that the blog has been really boring recently - I'm awaiting inspiration!

Santiago, Chile 14th August

Cursed day despite on paper it being a very productive day. Bad dreams. No hot water. Problems with internet and trying to get printouts of ticket info. However - we did manage to get replacement tickets straight away (thanks to all the ground work Laura did... it was all on file already) -they did charge us $50 for them, despite the fact that we had a police report, but we've got them and that is the main thing, aswell as a huge weight off our shoulders. Next door (swanky part of town) was a TGI Fridays rip-off and we celebrated by having a mushroom soup and a baked potatoe....oh what bliss. How nice, how yummy and how needed. I couldn't have appreciated anything more. Walking by the hotel I heard English voices (a rarity as there are practically no tourists), so I rushed upto them, explained our lack of guide book and asked if we could photocopy theirs. They were just off to the airport so Simon bombed it to a shop, copied and got back in time. Great - saved us so much money. Then time for food again (Simon hadn't eaten yet), but was nothing around - he settled for a couple of dry and greesy empinadas (deep fried thin cheese pasties) and then ages trying to find an internet place. Then we couldn't publish our blogs or send email without it crashing and loosing all our work. My face must have been like thunder when I walked down the stairs because the man asked if everything was alright, to which I answered with a harsh, biting NO! I tried to explain all the problems and despite my lack of technical computer related Spanish (or because of the look on my face) he didn't charge us full price. By this time we were at the end of our tether and decided to head for the security of our little room. No longer with a hunger (just couldn't be bothered with it all - almost like self preservation against disapointment) we decided instead to buy 2 bottles of the cheapest wine (even this wasn't hitch free) and try and salvage our sanity through booze. It worked! Along with the cast of 'Friends' we forgot the frustrating day and enjoyed the evening together.

Santiago, Capital of Chile 13th August

Today is my friends birthday who I have known since I was 4 years old - so I gave her a call to wish her happy 30th. It was really nice to talk to her - there has been no contact (except I sent the kids postcards - which I hear they loved and took to school) for 7months. We got the bus to Santiago, only 2 hours away, through fog and gentle forest laden hills that made me think I was back in Central America.. Nicuragua maybee? Caught the tube -clean, modern, easy and stress free - as they were asking 4pounds each in a cab!!!!! Staying in a great place of town that looks like old Paris - so lovely - and... we have private bathroom, double bed and a tv - such luxeries! Straightaway took the opportunity to do a load of washing (inc my coat that was so loppy that I looked worse than the gypsies). Then goggled out infront of the tv a while (well it was Deer Hunter on there and you can't not watch it) before searching the city for a travel guide for Argentina. Found only one copy in the whole of the city and they were asking $40 for it!!! We can't afford that, but... we can't not have a guide! Walked around the city that reminds me of parts of Paris and also the newer rundown parts of New Orleans and became more and more depressed (not only coz of the guide, but also in expectation of the difficulties we might encounter tomorrow when trying to replace the stolen tickets - and not being able to find a place where we can eat!) I had great expectations for food in Chile, a place that seems to be so civilised in all other ways - but no, it's just as difficult - or worse! We ran back to get some comfort from our hotel - and found it....with 3 consecutive episodes of 'Friends' to lift our spirits.

Valparaiso, Chile Sunday 12th August

Didn’t feel groggy this morning - to my suprise - and if Simon did he hid it well. He was hungry though so was off to the supermarket before I had even gotten up. Had a feast when he returned before setting out into the fresh blue day with a spring in our steps.Yesterday I found the city dirty, rundown, nothing to see and no reason to stay, but today I saw it’s rundown charm - some streets reminding me of Pigalle in Paris (once grand and affluant, now faded, dirty and a bit sleezy - where it once housed people of importance it now sells burgers and shop seconds. But I liked it).Went to the end of the docks, surrounded by Chilean families out for the day, and watched the ships. We went up an 'Ascensor' - a cable car on tracks that runs up the side of the hillside (the surrounding hills are very steep and there are 20 of these contraptions around the city to take you up). In the cable car Simon was 'The People's Favorite' as a young boy talked to him about his McDonald's Furbie, a family took him to thier heart and then an old woman grabbed him and dragged him to the window to show him the city. It was lovely at the top - large honey smelling trees and a small promanade around a large white and pretty looking naval museum. We took a look around it and learned more about the national obsession with Bernard O'Higgins and Arthur Pratt ( you really don't want to know!). We walked back down the hill past peeling paint wooden slat houses on stilts (rather like in Belize), but instead of these being out over the sea, they were out over the hill's edge, like a giant tide had gone out and never come back again, leaving them stranded. They were so dilapitated that one puff from the Big Bad Wolf, and they would all have come tumbling down. Sat in the lovely park (one thing that I love so much about South America) with it's towering trees, black iron statues and the most beautiful fountain I have seen yet, whilst kids drove rented peddle cars around. Decided all we needed to eat (and dared risk) was a bag of chips - but they were yuck and we had to chuck them before we chucked! Finished the day off by going to the 8pm show of Jurassic Park 3. It was ok, but the best part was seeing the kids' extreme reactions in the audience. We always seem to have a good Sunday!

Valparaiso, Chile 11th Aug

Was a good journey last night and we arrived at about 7am this morning. No hotels were open though and Si kept trying to rouse them until at last he managed to - but it was 8am by then and I had gotten cold, so when we got in the room I lept into bed with all my clothes on and had a lazy morning. Was starving so went to find somewhere to eat. Mmmm, easier said than done! It got to that crucial point, where it was food or a screaming fit just in time, as we found a veggie place! Simon had a pizza and I had a stew (took all the meat substitue out, but boy was it good to eat potatoes!!! What a treat. Poor old Simon’s pizza was rather strange. The base was more like a dumplin, topped not by a sauce and the usual additions, but by 3 slices of tomatoe and a thin slice of barely melted cheese!! Nice!!) This whole food thin has become a bit of an issue with me again recently - it’s just so depressing. Anyway, we drowned our sorrows after by going and havind a beer- or two. Got into some heavy & heated decussions (Simon’s sea pull versus my land pull. Simon’s argument of nurture/society keeping people down (especially relating to beggers and gypsies - which we’ll come back to later) versus my idea of spirit overcoming all of family or social limitations) By the time we stumbled home (Simon a little more than stumbling!) we had put the world to rights - but agreed to differ on our methods. * About the gypsies - they are everywhere, trying to get money off of you in quite an agressive manner - holding onto you and not taking no for an answer - which makes me really angry, but we'll not go into the ins and outs of it.

La Serena, Chile 10th August

The last day of watching slobberchops quote Eliza Doolittle with egg running down his mouth. Thank god! Finished my bad and overdone book and swapped it for a light hearted look at travel through Central America and started on it whilst Simon did the internet (he wasn’t able to get online yesterday). Spent time in the park before returning to the house to finish the last of our enormous salad. Was cornered by ‘Ugly Dog’ Charles who wanted us to write down Cockney-Ryhming Slang, and it’s meanings for him. I was fighting the giggles as I could only think of rude examples, and was dying to tell them to him, but with an innocent explanation. Luckily for him, the giggles didn’t go away and so I wasn’t able to say anything. Then we took our bags to the bus station and read outside until it was too cold to, then we went and window shopped inside the big mall. At 8pm we saw Planet of the Apes - which was a load of rubbish- but it killed the time till our 11.15pm bus.

La Serena, Chile 9th August

Simon bought me museli and yogurt yesterday, so there was no need for me to go to breakfast - but after a while my good manners (or guilt from leaving Simon to cope with the musical king alone) got the better of me and I joined them for a drink. After a few verses of a song from My Fair Lady (I know it's predictable.. you should be there sat opposite him trying either to keep your own face straight, or your fist from going through his!) and a discussion on why the man singing it sounds strange (not as strange as he does!) because he is singing with an accent, I had to drive a fork into the back of my hand or leave. I chose the second option. Had a nice long walk up the hills and around the city. Lovely views and warm fresh morning. Later called in at the malls as they have fantastically cheap video cameras that were too much of a bargin to pass up - but unfortunately were the wrong format - so we had to! More of our enormous and delicious salad and then here to fill you in on the latest. We are moving on tommorrow - to Valpariaso - a coastal city right by Santiago. Think we will be torn limb from limb later as Alexandro and his (thought it was his dad) brother vi for our attentions. Patience Rachel,... or another fake headache maybe?

La Serena, (Pisco Elqui) Chile, 8th August

My book has gone to my head - all last night I thought that people were out to brainwash me, and I was looking out for secret passwords and Haiku poetry - mad! Breakfast I wished someone had brainwashed me! Not sure how many more songs from musicals sung in bad English and even worse tune, along with conversations about English sayings (minus any real understanding of what is being talked about) I can take. So we escaped. To the Elqui Valley. The landscape was odd - so many contradictions - barren hills, colourful flowres, dry giant cacti, assortment of trees (from lime green to snow white), a river the strangest light apple-green and miles upon miles of vinyards. Kept thinking "It is like Greece - no it's like Swiss Alps - no more like Tuscanny" until I gave up and realised that it isn't like anywhere else - it's like Chile!! Was very pretty. Got off at Pisco Elqui (named after the famous drink down here). Walked all around this sweet, tranquil village and made the most of it's lovely hot climate. Ate our lunch of banana and bread in the square overshadowed behind by a candy coloured painted steeple church and lulled infront by a quaint fountain sculpured with small children. Aquired a dog friend that followed us everywhere - even around the Pisco distillery that we toured, and saw all the steps of pisco production - even onto the bus to go home... but reluctantly I had to get him back off the bus and leave him behind. Was a lovely relaxing day (apart from meeting a bitch from Australia at the distilery and then on the bus back - yak yak yak from her and ggrrrr from me - keep me at arms length!) Back at the house I wasn't in the mood to suffer any more fools, so when a half cut Alexandro headed towards us with invitations to join him for a drink and to listen to his music as soon as we opened the door, I jumped and said that I had a headache and would be going to bed. Simon left to get some food (salad actually -need real veg) and some iron tablets for me - think I'm lacking- and we had a real feast when he got back. Unfortunately Simon did get dragged off to listen to Britney, but managed to escape easy enough as his kidnapper slipped even further into oblivion to notice. Been a nice day - good to see a little more of the countryside

La Serena, Chile 7th August

Spent most of the day getting things done at a very leisurely pace (photocopying guide book of Chile, catching up with Weblog and emails, looking for a pocket diary etc etc). Later leaped on a bus to Coquimbo (the harbour where we went the other day) for a fish dinner by the sea. Although the fish wasn't exactly tasty, it was nice to eat something other than pizza or pasta. We watched the sun go down over the yellow-golden boats before heading home, where I read whilst poor old Simon got roped into drinks with Alexandro whilst listening to Shirley Bassey, My Fair Lady and Britney Speers!

La Serena, Chile 6th August

Strange breakfast as Alexandro sat with us and sang (in almost unrecognisable English) most of the lyrics from 'My Fair Lady'. Washed loads of clothes and didn't leave the house until about midday. Simon was in a devilish but sweet mood today. We caught he bus to the port. Clear light and soft sun bounced off the bright 'St Clements' coloured boats as large pelicans circled ahead or rested on the dingys waiting for a beakful of fish and remember the one of the many riddles, poems and ditties my grandma used to quote (A great big bird is a pelican, it's beak holds more than it's belly can. It holds in it's beak enough to last it a week; I don't know how the hell it can!). The boat ride Simon wanted to take me on may not be going ahead (lack of passengers) so we sit and have a cup of tea, walk around the fish market (Simon samples the Cervice - raw fish and seafood in brine, lemon and corriander), then rest on a bench by stalls selling driftwood and shell mobiles and ornamental flamingos made from small pink conch shells and watch the sea. We are saved by a last minute group booking by day-tripping old people. The sea is very 'hilly' and we go up and down and side to side a little too much for my liking (probably made worse by the fact that we were made to wear life jackets). It's a nice ride past rocks of pelicans till we reach a tall rocky island where I did a semi 'Tortuguero reaction on seeing the turtle' - but this time it was to the Sealions that were splayed across the rocks! Simon hadn't told me so it was a great suprise. Dozens of sunning sealions between preening pelicans. Huge blubber-wrapped beasts. The boss on top showing off his tremendous neck fat and bearing his long sharp teeth in an extended yawn to warn us off as the catamaran pulled up increadably and dangerously close to the island (hence the life jackets). It was fantastic. Didn't mind that we didn't see any dolphins - only the odd sealion along side of the boat on our journey back. Back on dry land we decided to walk part way back around the wide curved light-black sandy beach. I chased seaguls and pelicans along with a wolf dog that had joined us and when we came to shallow river outlets to the sea, Simon carried me across 'St. Christopher' style. We talked and sang and laughed for an hour and a half as we crunched hundreds of white calm shells and red crab backs under foot whilst the light changed and the distantant mountains faded to invisible. Peaceful, relaxing, spacious and lungs full of fresh air. Back in town we found a cosy little resaurant playing Bing Crosby, Dean Martin and other old greats and reminissed. Was the perfect end to a perfect day.

La Serena, Chile Sunday 5th August

Arrived at 5.30am and as we were sat by a corner waiting to telephone a place that was recomended to us - the man cycled past! It's not a hotel but his home, and is nice to be there with furniture around us. Haven't been in a home since leaving Jenkins'. The city was deserted as it was Sunday, but meant we could explore and enjoy it in peace. It's beautiful. Lovely grand detailed painted buildings, peaceful squares, lots of statues and palm trees and fountains - (all sound the same don't they?). They really know how to build towns in South America. They wipe the floor with British towns - and you won't find any rubbish in the streets at all. It's so bizzare being here though as it is all modern. Real shops where you can buy anything! Proper cafes that are not only clean but decorated (wallpaper - blast from the past)... we are in a dazed and confused state walking around. I think the highlight of the day was going to s super supermarket - like KMart- and being overwhelmed and excited by everything. Strolled back in light that is remenisant of hot and humid times (dark blue sky growing lighter until it is a yellow band down at the horizon, silhouetted by palm trees). So far the worst thing about Chile is that they have a terrible accent. Can't understand a word of it (and they can't understand us either!). They talk so fast, gabbled, clipped yet sloppy, dropping consanants. It's impossible! Evening was spent talking to the old man of the house (who looked like 'Ugly Dog' from Utila with his strange eyes and protruding lower teeth) about everything from The Royal Family to the Chiliean wine we were drinking (in English!!!) whilst he showed us his painting of the Middle East.

San Pedro - La Serena, Chile 4th August

2 hours to Calama, 1 hour waitover and then 16 hours to La Serena - but oh a treat like no other - one that had Simon and I dancing with glee and as excited as a couple of kids on Christmas day. The buses, the buses of course. After over 5 months of the poorest excuse for a bus you can imagine, we are in a country where the buses seem to be made by god's own hands. Touching the fixtures and fittings to make sure they were real -toilet, reclining seats, leg-room, tv and video, drinks served and blankets and pillows. Wow with cherries on top! Spent all day and night very happy in our spanking bus watching videos, as well as the desert landscape beyond our cosy capsule. Ahhh, I like Chile!

San Pedro de Aticama, Northern Chile, 3rd August

Relaxed, chilled out and let the past 3 days sink in. Nice walks and long spells of sitting in the square in the warm sunshine filled the day. Little more sorting to do with stolen tickets puts our minds a little more at ease, and was lovely to speak to my parents over the telephone (couldn't get hold of Simon's). Feel a little anxious about 12 rolls of film we sent home not arrived yet (but that is because of having the bag stolen just one day after taking the films out of the bag... now I'm paranoid about their saftey). Enjoying my body adjusting to lack of very high altitude -(dry sore throat, collapsing soft pallat, difficulty breathing, runny/blocked nose and the harsh cough). Feeling halthier. Suppose we'd been at altitude quite some time.

Desert to San Pedro de Aticama, CHILE 2nd Aug

Haven't been able to wash since leaving Uyuni and can't wait to get to Chile and have a shower .. but many more things to see first. Woken at 5.30am, no breakfast so we could cross more desert and be somewhere spectacular for sunrise. These are the world's highest Geysers. Forcefully blowing hundreds of feet into the air with the sun coming up behind it made the main one glow bright golden and I almost expected to see a Genie form at the top of it. Spectacular. As we walked around there were hundreds of smaller ones - magical dragons imprisoned in the earth and screaming for release. In and out of the moon like terrain dodging boing pits of bubbling mud (double double toil and trouble, fire burn and couldren bubble) or angry outbursts of spitting spraying mud. Yet another landscape almost unacceptable to the brain, with figures silhouetted against bright smoke like the descending aliens exiting their ship in 'Close Encounters' . Beautiful calm amist such struggle. Our breakfast stop was by a lake frozen at one end, but with hot springs at the other, and whilst our driver cooked our scrambled eggs, we stripped off shoes and socks and soaked in the very hot and very soothing water. Then past more lakes and mountains to one that should have looked green - but the wind was in the wrong direction that day, and so didn't! It was however frozen solid so we ventured out onto it. How beautiful and fulfilling. What a way to say goodbye to Bolivia. We really have seen some unbelievable things .. and they still haven't sunk in yet. As we crossed the border and into Chile, the change was immediate. Tarmac roads!!! Oh, this is some distant luxery from somewhere back in my memory. We turned around the side of a mountain on par with it's cap of snow to see an ongoing flat swirl of muted colours far far below us (like seeing the bottom of a depp ocean) ... this was Chile. San Pedro de Aticama certainly was a welcome village, making us feel relaxed straight away. Though it is flat sand buildings it's warm and civilised. Long hot shower, and a meal in a 'proper' restaurant with decor, candle light, good music and... red wine!!! Oh a lovely end to a fantasic trip, and a good start to a whole new country!