Sucre, Bolivia Saturday 28th July

20 more kids with cars on strings have just ran past the door ... what's going on? That's the Americas for you - never a dull moment. Well we're still here, but will definately(?) move on tommorrow. Looking forward to seeing the Salars, and also moving onto a new country. Bolivia has been good, but very frustrating (strikes etc) as the country definately dictates what you can and can't do/visit. Wonder how Chile will be for Book Exchanges- they have become an important part of our travels (I would even go so far as saying that they have become Simon's obsession) as we read a book a week (or more). We always have about 6 books with us! I also wonder what the toilet habbits will be of our new country.Explanation: Here (and all the way down), no matter what kind of place you're in (*poshest of restraunts /hotel /cafe etc) you never expect to find toilet roll supplied - or soap - or something to dry your hands on (lucky if you get running water) - and should you find a place that has one of these luxeries, you report back enthusiastically to the other person so that they can use the said facilities and make the most of the opportunity. Also, a very common site is women weeing in the streets (actually, I don't think I've seen a man releiving himself). This takes quite a bit of getting used to. One minute they're just walking along - the next they fumble under their layers of skirts, bob down- and Bob's your uncle! * Back tracking for a moment, to the comment on posh restraunts (very rare) - but should we walk past a place that has carpet, fancy lights and a matching colour scheme, then I'm all excited and oohing and aahing nose pressed to window like child at sweet shop and thinking "How posh!". Strange comment coming from a woman who in her lunch hour working in London's Mayfair, used to be welcomed to Claridges with open arms and sit sipping free flowing champagne, a woman who has been to invitation only 'big band' dinner and dances at the Savoy, a woman who has been to lavish balls at private mansions, who has slept in the same bed as Kings from the 1800's... mmm, strange how things change!

Sucre, Bolivia Saturday 28th July

20 more kids with cars on strings have just ran past the door ... what's going on? That's the Americas for you - never a dull moment. Well we're still here, but will definately(?) move on tommorrow. Looking forward to seeing the Salars, and also moving onto a new country. Bolivia has been good, but very frustrating (strikes etc) as the country definately dictates what you can and can't do/visit. Wonder how Chile will be for Book Exchanges- they have become an important part of our travels (I would even go so far as saying that they have become Simon's obsession) as we read a book a week (or more). We always have about 6 books with us! I also wonder what the toilet habbits will be of our new country.Explanation: Here (and all the way down), no matter what kind of place you're in (*poshest of restraunts /hotel /cafe etc) you never expect to find toilet roll supplied - or soap - or something to dry your hands on (lucky if you get running water) - and should you find a place that has one of these luxeries, you report back enthusiastically to the other person so that they can use the said facilities and make the most of the opportunity. Also, a very common site is women weeing in the streets (actually, I don't think I've seen a man releiving himself). This takes quite a bit of getting used to. One minute they're just walking along - the next they fumble under their layers of skirts, bob down- and Bob's your uncle! * Back tracking for a moment, to the comment on posh restraunts (very rare) - but should we walk past a place that has carpet, fancy lights and a matching colour scheme, then I'm all excited and oohing and aahing nose pressed to window like child at a sweet shop and thinking "How posh!". Strange comment coming from a woman who in her lunch hour working in London's Mayfair, used to be welcomed to Claridges with open arms and sit sipping free flowing champagne, a woman who has been to invitation only 'big band' dinner and dances at the Savoy, a woman who has been to lavish balls at private mansions, who has slept in the same bed as Kings from the 1800's... mmm, strange how things change! It's all relavant!

Sucre, Bolivia 27th July

Didn't sleep at all last night - but I don't know why. Overcast and cold again today. Did interneting, went shopping for a jumper but didn't see any that hit the spot, looked for the theatre but only the Bulgarian ballet on (Bulgarian!...give that a miss!) Had a nice lunch .. lots of normal things today that don't really make for a good blog! - (oohh, about 40 kids have just gone running up the street pulling bits of string with various toy cars, trucks etc tied to the end!! Must be some Bolivia Grand Prix?)- Anyway, the evening we went to our favourite restaurant (it's balcony) and had a few beers to help us discuss everything from world debt to future family. We have decided to stay in Sucre just one more day!...

Sucre, Bolivia 26th July

Was overcast and quite chilly today. Been a day of sorting out and stressing: internet too slow and messing me around, finding out about sending films via EMS (S.American equivalant to DHL), postcards to a couple of people, sending a gift to a new baby, doing some important shopping, and then sending the films off (with much anxiety - not only because you worry as they are important and irreplacable.- but also because the man in the job, despite being metaculously thorough, seemed incapable of even the simplest tasks- doesn't instill confidence!) With it all behind us we set off for our favourite place and read until it was too cold to. Been nice spending the time here - but think we will push on to the Sallars (salt plains) with a full day's journey on Saturday.

Sucre, Bolivia 25th July

Feel much better now - back to normal - but still have a cough and stuffy nose that I haven't been able to shift since La Paz. In the plaza we saw a man with a camera (a sort of Bolivia Alfie), and since dad mensioned that our photos don't have any close-ups amongst them, we decided to get our photo taken and email the photo to the families. Click - 20p deposit and the man disapeared to go and get the picture developed. We thought that would be the last we saw of him, but 30min later he returned with the print and collected 30p more, and both parties were happy. At 3 o'clock the main event of the day, which we had both been looking forward to like 2 overexcitable kids, was going to the cinema. We saw "What Women Want" with Mel Gibson, and even though the film was nothing more than average, we enjoyed it as the treat it was - with a bottle of fizzy pop, 5 sweats each lined up on the arm of our chairs, and much silly excitability (don't think the other 6 people in the audience noticed our madness). In a good mood we made a night of it and sat on a balcony overlooking the main plaza, had pasta, had a beer and had a laugh.

Sucre, Bolivia 24th July
The main event today was finding out at 12pm that the hotel had overbooked it's rooms and needed us out! (despite us having booked 2 more nights there). The only other room they had was more expensive, but they refused to put us in there unless we paid the higher price. Well Simon's Spanish has been put to good use these days - with all the arguing he's been doing. He wasn't a happy bunny I can tell you, and put up a good fight - but to no avail! Never mind - he who laughs last- Simon wrote a great letter to the hotel owners, complaining about their management etc - it was really loaded and made him feel much better about it all. Anyway, the new hotel is just as good. Spent the rest of the day sitting in the long park or in the plaza, the sun is lovely and hot. There seems so many very poor homeless campasinos here, living on the streets, with their faded ponchos, many children and tin saucepan/pale they carry around for their food. There also seems a greater amount of very physically disabled people - no legs, or legs so malformed that the person has to walk around on hands and knees, hands missing or eyes missing and the empty socket stuffed with cotton wool. Maybee they have come from Potosi where the only work is down the mines and due to the utterly dire conditions, life expectancy down there is just 15 years (the mine claiming 8 million lives in 300 years). Maybee it's just that they're more noticable here. (There were many poor street people in La Paz, but the city was worn and dull and busy and the people there just blended into the background, unnoticable - sad thought that isn't it?). Here the city is grand and elegant with Spanish or Colonial buildings and intricate iron balconies akin to Savannah - all sparkling pure white like it's just recieved a brand new coat of paint or never been soiled by so much as a dirty fingerprint. Here these people don't blend in. They are from a different world and time, and there presence here doesn't sit comfortably. There is a little boy of about 3 or 4 years old who- whatever time of day or night - is stood on this one corner with a little toy guitar, strumming for all he is worth, stamping his feet and nodding his smiling head from side to side. Giving all he's got for the chance of a few Bolivianas. It breaks my heart and every time I see him I want to whisk him away, give him a hot bath, feed him up, read him stories, teach him to write, make him laugh until he cries and them tuck him up into a nice warm bed at the end of the day and keep him safe.... But what can I really do? Gringo money can do more harm than good - helping only the situation to continue. It's a tough call.

Sucre, Bolivia 23rd July

Didn't have a good night as I felt ill with stomache cramps all night. Basically I was up and Si bought me a natural yoghurt, then asleep again till 1.30, then managed to eat a banana and bread and sat outside. Si came back from ? at about 2.30 and we had a cup of tea. I felt better so we went out for a gentle walk and fresh air. Found a lovely park with tall fir trees, a minature Eiffel Tower, a small moat with paddle boats, a bridge, iron trellis arbouritum, statues and hot sunlight highlighting the above and making it feel comforting and relaxing. We sat with our legs over the bridge and had one of our famous conversations about life, what you learn from it, discovering what you want from it and then going for what you want. Later had a tomatoe soup (my comfort food for when I'm ill) and back to hotel for another early night. Still got a few cramps (think it's mostly from the long cold stressful bus journeys) but feel better, even though feel physically worn out. Despite being ill I've had a really nice day with Simon and feel really close and happy.

Sucre, Bolivia Sunday 22nd July

Hideous journey. Was actually warm enough - but shouldn't have eaten so much before the journey as there wasn't a toilet stop until 6am!! Got off and ran for the toilet, then when I came to reboard was told that the bus terminates here (Potosi) and that we had to change bus. It was freezing (Potosi being famous for being cold) and the bus was small and ramshattled and poor old Simon had no leg room at all. He had an argument with the man infront as he kept banging back on his seat and nearly breaking Simon's legs. We wetre frozen and at the end of our tether - no sleep or comfort, and there was also a jam for a bike race?. 14 hours later we were at last in Sucre cold and fed up. At hotel we had a long long hot shower, bought fruit in the market (I had such a craving for vitamins) and sat and ate it in a square. Checked our emails and back to hotel to relax on the roof and read our books. Not as cold here - yipee. A much needed early night, and glad to back in a double bed again.

Sucre, Bolivia Sunday 22nd July

Hideous journey. Was actually warm enough - but shouldn't have eaten so much before the journey as there wasn't a toilet stop until 6am!! Got off and ran for the toilet, then when I came to reboard was told that the bus terminates here (Potosi) and that we had to change bus. It was freezing (Potosi being famous for being cold) and the bus was small and ramshattled and poor old Simon had no leg room at all. He had an argument with the man infront as he kept banging back on his seat and nearly breaking Simon's legs. We wetre frozen and at the end of our tether - no sleep or comfort, and there was also a jam for a bike race?. 14 hours later we were at last in Sucre cold and fed up. At hotel we had a long long hot shower, bought fruit in the market (I had such a craving for vitamins) and sat and ate it in a square. Checked our emails and back to hotel to relax on the roof and read our books. Not as cold here - yipee. A much needed early night, and glad to back in a double bed again.

Tupiza, Bolivia 21st July

Took a trip at 8am this morning to the north of the village to see more natural wonders. 4 of us in a jeep across the wild tarain to a place where there were giant gorges of deep red needles - like looking down into hell, then to where there were sand coloured 'candles' of rock. It was really nice, but not the same as the horseriding, where you were completlely in, and surrounded by it - the live version. Got back and decided to go to Sucre tonight (only 1 bus a day at night). Packed and left stuff with the hotel and wondered around the market (no nice hats or skirts -plenty of dried Llama and armadillos) then to the square where we met Simon again and went for a coke. Back up the Cerro for sunset again - calm, happy and in love, then back for pizza and chips (there is nothing else to eat here - honest!) Collected bag, put all our layers of clothes on (feel like the Mitchelin Man) and off to the bus station for yet another night on a cold bus.

Tupiza, Bolivia 20th July

I think I actually slept through the night, and though I daren't move a muscle I was actually warm. Had breakfast and decided to have a look at the tour/trips on offer - and booked ourselves to do some horse riding in the afternoon. Had an icecream in the square, then a look around the market, and Simon bought some woolen knitted long johns like mine for those cold nights and long bus journeys (sorry Simon - there goes your street cred!). 2pm the guide was waiting with a horse for us each and off we went into the desert. Well, what an increadable afternoon it was. This is the most stunning landscape I have ever seen. I was so upset because in La Paz we put a black & white film in the camera (we were only going to see desert so thought we could get some atmospheric shots) - what we didn't know was that this desert is colourful! (actually that is an understatement!) Giant rocks of burning red, mountains of deep sienna, rocks pale green,slopes of bright sage,floor of gentle yellow, crags of grey,pinacles of blue... it was like a child had gotten hold of the landscape and gone mad with his paintbox. So, so beautiful. Breathtaking in its wonder. All around giant long cacti with cotton wool heads that shone like a halo with the sun behind it, and Simon and I in the middle of it all like 2 pioneers or the only people left on this strange earth that the rest of the world forgot - or never knew about in the first place. Omar the guide asked if we wanted to gallop and we agreed. Opps - nearly had an accident in my trousers! I realise that what we did in Guatamala was definately not gallopping. How fast! It took a while for the adrenalin to slow down and me to get over the initial shock - but I liked it. For 2 hours we wound around the giant needle rock forms, through the devils door and were surrounded strange sights of nature. We did more galloping - what a rush - as the horses rode off leaving a cloud of dust behind, and feeling raw and alive.We were Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid reincarnate! (I'm sure they couldn't have shot the film down here as I don't remember these colourful mad rocks - but this where they came and lived- and were eventually killed in a village a little to the north) We stopped by a ravine that narrowed and the horses could go no further so Simon and I climbed through it- up and over the giant red rocks. It was like we were inside an illustration for a magical fairy story book - the red rocks having giant spakling white crystals sticking from them, and stones of blue, purple and green. The ravine wound around with frail weeping trees along the path looking soft and dreamlike against the stone, and the floor was even more strange as it was covered with a white crystalised substance like salt, that made it look like you were walking through stones of pure fire on a path of freshly fallen frosty snow. Beautiful, magical and other worldly. An hour riding back to the town, with lots of galloping and feeling fantastic. Wow, what a fantastic experience we had - unlike anything I could imagine. In the evening we again had pizza again and talked about our brilliant time- 2 free spirts in a wild land. We climbed the Cerro at the back of the town to overlook it at sunset. What a spectacular sunset it was too - the sky competing for colour and splendor against the landscape beneath it. We stood and watched in awe and held each other - almost to confirm that we were real - this was real. What a day!

Tupiza, Bolivia 19th July

At 8.30am this morning I looked out of the window and saw the most stunning scenery that I almost forgot my frozen and painful knees. It was like a rich desert, tall cacti, brushy trees, wide but shallow frozen streams and lovely long morning shadows. Really really beautiful - so different. This landscape continued till it became more and more desert - dryer and sparcer till we reached Tupiza- some 20 hours later! I was ready to get off the bus by then. Both a bit dazed (or dozed?) from the journey and our first impressions of Tupiza were not entirely favorable! (yes the surounding landscape is lovely but the town itself - characterless mud brick buildings - nothing more than empty streets of blowing dust). Got room and needed to eat so had a big pizza, chips and beer and it was definately what the doctor ordered! Got talking to a bloke from England in the cafe called Simon and started to relax and swap travel tales. Walked to the square and sat (Si bought me a toffee apple),the square is really nice actually and we start to feel a bit more human. It was an early night with us, both sqashed into a single bed with blankets from other bed too, and loads of layers of clothes - desperate for a bit of warmth.

LA Paz - Tupiza Bolivia Wed 18th July

In the morning we went to the bus station to catch the next bus to Oruro, but when we got there all the tellers were closed and there was a state of confusion. The campasino's strikes had hit southern Bolivia and no buses were allowed to Oruro (or anywhere along that road, which is the major connection to the south.) We bought a ticket to Tupiza (which was our end destination anyway) and were told that they would know if it would be allowed to leave at about 5 o'ck. So, we left our packs with the ticket office and set off to kill the day in La Paz (not knowing whether we would be forced to kill a week or a month here due to the strikes!). Sat in the sun light square and watched the world go by; the posh woman feeding the pigeons, the 2 young indian girls from out of town sat on the steps sharing a private joke, the man selling balloons who had a stump leg and sat ironically under a tree that had a sawn off branch and all the other comings and goings of the people. We went back to the bus station at 4 to find out if there was any news, but the police had blocked the gate and everyone was trying to get in. We eventually pushed through still to have no news; then there was an anouncement saying that the blockade would be lifted for buses to be allowed to leave at 5 o'ck only. There was huge panic as everyone tried to get bus tickets (not knowing when the next opportunty to leave the city might be). Anyway, to cut a long story short, we eventually got on our way at nearer to 6 o'ck (because of people with too much luggage and dozens of human sized bundles of coca) - but we were allow to leave and only 10 mins down the road 2 bundles of coca fell off the roof. I thought we'd never get out, and there was so much arguing and fuss, I was really stressed. Anyway, it was the start of a bad journey (there wasn't any bother from the Campasinos - just the odd blockade of rocks in the road) but the people! Due to overcrowding people were sitting/sleeping in the aisle and leaning with full weight on Simon who was already squashed (no leg room at all) - so there were a few words said - a few times! There were only 2 toilet stops from 6pm to 6am and it was freezing cold, despite 8 layers of clothes,plus hat, gloves, blanket etc - there was even ice on the inside of the window!

La Paz, La Paz, Bolivia 17th July

Reluctantly back to La Paz (we need to push on as there is a conecting train we'd like to catch from our next destination tomorrow) The road back was hard again - but mostly because a lorry broke down (ran out of petrol!) and blocked the road for an hour. Oh well, back in La Paz we rewarded ourselves with a big Chineese meal!

Coroico, La Paz, Bolivia 11th - 17th July

Well we had a lovely time at the ballet last night - so many regions and styles and costumes and music - it was great. Felt so ill today though and on top of it all had a journey on 'the most dangerous road in America'. It was very windy and narrow and dropped 3000metres in 80km - but the scenery was spectacular and we were right up next to snowy mountains and grazing llamas. Our destination Coroico was beyond what we'd hoped for and as you can see from the dates at the top of the entry, we kept saying 'One more day' - it quite easily could have gone on longer too! We had a hotel that looked more like a millionare's retreat - a swimming pool below, a huge dancefloor sized balcony to ourselves looking out onto the most to die for view ever. It was very high up and looking down into an ongoing valley flanked with snow caps peeping out of the clouds. 270* around you nothing but heart-stopping beauty of magestical and mystical mountains. We did nothing all day but sit out in our swimwear watching the changing cloud formations and subtle changes in colour across the hills and sky - paradise. It was scorching weather and we have both got our tans back! We would sometimes have a small walk into the town square with it's grand colonial church, towering palm trees and overeasy pace. There are blacks out here (first seen since Central Am) - it's seems a little strange when you see them kitted out in the flaired skirts and bowlers - guess just not used to the lookI got a pinifore that all the women wear out here - sweet, with a very full skirt (sort of looks a bit 'Little House on the Prairie' -ish) Sometimes a swim to cool off, or a pizza in the square (the Bolivia couple running it becoming our friends and good conversations were had. On the Sunday night there was a festival for the town in which there was a parade with torches and bands playing. Each sector of the community paraded - from schools, church, football teams, clerks, peasants and even the arny ( who fired live amunition into the air from a truck!) Was mad but fun. The next day it happened all over again! Mostly though we relaxed and then relaxed some more watching little yellow birds flit from the banana trees, and overhead giant Condours swoop elegantly - taking your eyeline from one wonder to the next. Each night we would finish it the same way; rum and coke on the pitch black balcony under a canopy of stars and talk of good times past and days ahead. What a lovely time and place.

La Paz, Bolivia, 10th July.

(Forgot to tell you that Bolivia is one hour ahead, so we are now only 5 hours behind you). Had a terrible sleep as it was freezing! In the morning I had a sore throat and runny nose and felt rather under the weather. Had a nice day though taking it easy and walking around the city. We popped into the embassy in the off chance that they would extrend our visas, and they did with no hassle or cost. This gives us as much time here as we want ( and maybe need - seeing as the other 2 countries are very expensive and we are on an ever decreasing budget). We sat and ate our special fruit in a sun drenched square, bought more film for our camera (yes I know - more!) ate delicious salad (with our bodies cheering at the fresh veg) and had a good talk with 2 guys from London (that faraway place belonging to a different life). We also found a real old boy's cafe that looked like it hadn't changed for the best part of this century. It brought back good memories of cafes we patronised in Paris and Italy. Between sneezes I'm looking forward to tonight. We have tickets for the ballet!!! (National Cultural ballet) so should be good. (Bit different here though, as the tickets cost us 3 Pounds for the 2 of us!)

La Paz, BOLIVIA, 9th July

Caught the 8am bus to La Paz over in Bolivia. Waiting for the bus, Simon brought me over a mug of coffee and a saucer from the cafe across the road, and I sipped and took in the lovely hazy morning light. Found out on the bus that some people had paid more than double what we had! The ride was wonderful, as the route followed the shore of Lake Titicaca. The land to the water's edge was like Dulux's palatte of natural colors, ranging from deep wheat to salmon brown - all enhanced by the wonderful light quality that saturates everything. The sun on the lake gave the appearance that it was covered with millions of glitter dressed fairies dancing on the surface. In it was also reflected the imposing mountain backdrop, where ,mountains didn't have snow 'caps' but full white overcoats! Really wished we could have spent some time exploring this area like we planned- but there is too much unrest, protests and road blocks, that it is not only unwise, but impossible. On our way into Bolivia we passed many groups of military police camped out on the roadside to try and keep the Campasinos' protests at bay. Eventually arrived in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world. The road in was quite a shock as the huge urban city spilled out (was crammed out) infront of us. Looked like a city for insects. Down the long, narrow and steep roads we found more people than I'd ever seen anywhere. It was chocablock - a swarming ant colony of small brown people. (The Indians here were less woolen clothes and more silky, shiny fabrics - but in the same designs, and of course with the obligitory mini bowler hat). Exploring the city shoulder to shoulder with everyone else we descovered lots of lovely, grand and faded buildings, 'toy' soldiers dressed in red and beige uniforms lowering the national flag (military police told us to stand!), 'real' shops like down Oxford Street as well as street vendors selling everything from sweets to dried Llama foetuses! The strangest thing here is the amount of military presence - nearly every corner and street being lined with combat clothed police with riot shields, sub & automatic machine guns and what look like handgranades, but probably tear gas/pepper spray. Makes you feel a bit odd. After saying that, the city has a good atmosphere and the people seem nice enough. Later that night we sat in a restaurant (after a long search for somewhere to sit and people watch - nowhere!) chatted about our new home and sampled the new country's beers.

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 8th July

Just another lazy Sunday! Sat in the square and watched a huge military parade (happens every Sunday) Weather been nice today and spent much time making the most of it, and chewing on our Cocoa leaves. Bought a bus ticket for La Paz; the Bolivian Capital for tomorrow morning. We really wanted to go to Copacabana (on Lake TCC, Bolivian side), and also visit the Island of Sun and Island of Moon, where the Inca Gods were born; but there are road blocks and strikes and it's impossible to get through. Been like it a while, but thought they might end soon - but looks like it will go on for another 10 days at least. Never mind - onto La Paz instead. Well this is the last day in Peru. It's been a shocking, and suprising country (from the dry depressing desert towns of the north, to the happy party indians on the island of Amantani, Lake TCC). Just hoping that in Bolivia they don't have the grating mock Japaneese wailing opretta music!

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 7th July

Happy 30th birthday Sascha! Been quite tired today so we took it easy, had a long lunch, went to the post office and sent off lots of postcards and then here to catch up on the internet. Nothing more to write as of yet, but just want you all to know how perfectly happy Simon and I are. Bliss.

Taquille Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru Fri 6th July

Nice sleep and up early. Toilet at the end of the plot & went to stream with canisters to fill with water to flush it with. Quick splash of freezing sream on face for a wash and upto room for breakfast. It had rained in the morning, but to no effect on the dry harsh land. We said goodbye & thankyou to the old mother & gave her bananas & toffees, which she took smiling shyly, unable to look in our eyes (not the case last night when the old dear got me up to dance & was spinning me around!) Off Simon & I trotted down to the harbour accompanied by Olga, where there were already a crowd of gringos and tiny human spinning wheels waiting. Off we sailed leaving the lovely crazy, unique island & the time we'd had there behind us.
One hour later we pulled into Taquille, another island. Great hour walk to the other side of the island (also remanisant of Greece/Crete) to the main plaza - an arch, a church & a few mud brick buildings. Brief rundown of the island, then Simon & I went off to explore, while the group went off for lunch in a restaurant. We sat on a terrace overlooking Lake TCC with a cute but vocal cow for company as we ate the sandwiches we made this morning. Walking around the island, the woman wear clothes almost identical to Amantani, but here all the men wear trad clothes too. Black trousers, white long puff sleeved shirts, black and white bolero waistcoats, broad waistbands and long floppy knitted hats. married men wear all red hats, full of pattern, while single men wear hats only half red & patterned; the top half being white ( my theory is the white represents the poor blank pages the men are before they have a wife!) The strangest thing about this island is that all the men walk around knitting! They knit the hats that they wear using 5 needles. They are very fast and skillful - designs tight & elaborate. After 4 hours and down the 500+ steps down the other side of the island we sailed off the 3 hours home. There was a drizzle of rain creating a magical rainbow. Pulled into Puno feeling we'd been away 4 days not overnight. What a great and unique & unforgettable time we've had on Lake TCC (Michael Palin eat your heart out!)

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 4 - Thurs 5th July

A long hall with one oil lamp and at each end a Peruvian band, one dressed in green ponchos, the other in red. The place was crammed with as many (if not more) locals as tourists (some of which were also dressed in Trad clothes - but still with their trousers and such - not properly) As soon as we entered Olga dragged Simon onto the dance floor. What mad dancing! Holding hands face to face and pulling and twisting each other manically for the whole song (which lasted an exhausting 15 mins) You got a ongood 'swish' the skirts. They also had dances like a 'Farandel' ?- like a big Hokey Cokey but running round in the circle whipping people around the corners (more like a playground game than a dance) All the locals were totally up for dancing and threw themselves into it ( this happens every night?!) It was bizzare but so much fun and I couldn't stop laughing from the pure pleasure and absurdity of it all. What a party. I danced with young boys, teenage girls and old ladies. Truely mad and brilliant. Simon asked a middle aged woman to dance, and she seemed less manic in her twists, till the bundle on her back fell open to reveal a sleeping 10 month old baby in there. No wonder! But she enjoyed herself. We carried on till exhausted, found Olga's sister and wlked back with Olga reluctantly dragging her heels behind. ( also descovered the other couple staying there weren't even asked to wear the trad dress!) The walk back didn't need a torch as the full moon lit our way beautifully. (earlier we saw what we thought was the setting sun; a bright baleesha beakon large, low and increadable in the sky -even though it was late. It was puzzling and mesmerizing. Now realised that it was the moon!) Slipped between the blankets still shell shocked at what we'd just experienced. What a weird and wonderful day with these crazy people!

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 3 - Thurs 5th July

All met at the community house and the relevant guides led their groups off up the hill to visit ruins. As we waited for ours the hosts stood gossiping and spinning, gringos exchanged stories of families, rooms and food and 5 small boys played panpipes and drums with gusto. Two smaller boys danced around arm in arm, one with his trousers revieling half of his little bot and little girls ran around in their unique headgear - a very long stripy knitted Santa Claus hat with big frills flopping around their tiny nut brown faces. The 4 o'clock light was lovely, strong and long. The hike was hard on the lungs. At the top the ruins were ok, but the views better, despite too many clouds for a good sunset. It was freezing and starting to get dark when we descended and found Olga had been waiting for us 2 hours at the bottom. Back at the house we were brought dinner (cooked by her mother), which again was nice. (Gave the family bread after lunch and a bag of biscuits after dinner). Then Olga and her mother came into our candle lit room with armfuls of their traditional clothes. We got the wrong end of the stick as we thought they were trying to sell them to us (we have just come from Cusco where everyone is on the make!) They insisted it was for the dance tonight and wanted us to wear them - no fee, no catch?! We weren't up for it before thinking it would be sad, with a few gringos etc, but they were so insistant and seemed so earnest that I said 'Why not!' Simon left the room and I undressed and the 2 of them began to dress me. It was quite a ritual - almost like a wedding or something. I really enjoyed the female bond of it. It was a task with 4 tiered skirts of contrasting colours and very full (the first which was knitted) - blouse, long thick woven waistbands, braided hair and headdress. I was ready and felt great. (Simon had on Poncho and colourful Chullah hat) We all trudged off to the community house (skirts increadably warm) wandering what on earth was in store for us.... nothing could have prepared us for the reality!!

Amantani Island, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 2- Thurs 5th July

Arrived in the small harbour of Amantani to lots of traditionally dressed women (and a few men) gathered around waiting for us. The tourists filed off the boat looking like lambs to the slaughter, wondering what sort of family (and experience) they were in store for. Walked to a clearing ( a breathless 4200metres above sea). All the gringos stood in a group, with the villagers stood behind (women in layers of bright green, red, orange full skirts, thick white embroidered blouses and long black head shawls with embroidered bottoms.) They all spun coloured wool onto handheld bobins/reels while gossiping shyly between themselves with the look of pubesant girls infront of a boys football team. The guide called out names of gringos and they stepped forward, then the name of the family they'd be staying with (no hotels on this island), which then relayed through the women till it came to the nameholder, who then ran down giggling, wrapping her headscarf across her sweetly embarrassed face - all the time still spinning. One by one we were paired and lead off up the hillside to our home for the night. Our host was Olga, a young girl, and between breaths exchanged pleasantries and info to break the ice (luckily she understood Spanish aswell as Quechua). Long steep hill up the lovely scenic island passing sheep, islanders, terraces of hard, dry, stoney earth and at last over a small sream to the casa. (all houses made of the dry mud bricks - but ours was part painted blue- no electricity or water.) we were up stairs (another couple in the room next door) and the family lived downstairs boxed within a wall to keep out the wind. Small and neat. Outside were piles of corn by-product drying out in small piramids along side of tiny potatoes. (here they have over 100 varieties, all small and strange, and take a day of boiling before they are edible) Settled down and admired our surroundings, which were very scenic, but looked more like a Greek island, than an island in Lake TCC.Then we were brought lunch (on the boat we were told that the island was veggie - we couldn't believe it, we'd brought more food than luggage!) Food was yum then Olga opened the tiny door which reached our shoulders (no knocking or locks here) and said 'Vamos!' - so off we went.

F

Floating Islands of Uros then Island Amantani, Lake Titicaca, Peru - Part 1- Thurs 5th July

8.30 to open open backed boat on the famous lake.Sat in cold with harsh sun listening to our guide Edwin explain all about the lake, it's history and the various islands. In 1 hour we reached Uros. This is one of 50 floating islands in the lake. Underfoot it was springy and felt like you were walking on a 'bouncy castle'. Felt like you could easily put your foot through. There were great boats made from reeds with Puma heads on the front like Viking ships ( though the puma heads looked more like Teddy Bears to me - oh, it´s because Lake Tcc means Puma Stone). It takes them one month to make them and they last about 1 year before rotting away. The Island which is made entirely from reeds rots away from the bottom and every 5 month they add a couple of feet of reeds to the top layer (lifting the light reed houses to place the reeds under them). The women really try and push you tp buy the goods that they have made (which are very good, but you know how it goes) We exchanged apples for photographs and Simon had a coulpe of old dears who were onto him - such charm! Was weird to see someone cooking with an open fire, but suppose there is plenty of water around should it get out of hand! Spent an hour there (island are only small, about 7 to 10 families on each one) and 10 minutes at the next. How do they survive in such a small restricted place? Totally odd experience, unlike anywhere else in the world. Back in the boat we headed on to a real (natural) island called Amantani. 3 hours on the lake which is so vast that can't see all of it. It's more like an eerie still sea. Deep and glassy, sometimes looking like ice foes and double the depth of blue that the sky was. Lake TCC was less impressive than the initial hit I got from Lake Atitlan in Guatamala (which is a tight package of wonder for the eyes) - here it's too vast for that initial wow, but travelling over it, it has it's own unique beauty.

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 4th July.

Wandered around today getting info from various agencies, and got a great deal ( those good old student cards again!) Had good food before hitting the market where we bought myself some wool knitted longjohns for those nippy nights, and gloves and Peruvian Chullah (pointy hat with earflaps ...you know the type) in Alpaca from a woman who was sat there knitting them. (I like my money to direct). Had a walk to the lake.. not exactly scenic from this side - nothing spesh, but sat and had a long and interesting talk to a young student of Tourism. Gave him lots to think about, and he was quite refreshing. Back to market for food for the trip and the next 2 days (who knows what food will be provided), then relaxed in room, read and packed day pack to take with us for the next 2 days. ... Oh by the way; Happy 4th July to all our American buddies!

Puno, Lake Titicaca, Peru 3rd July

Bus absolutely freezing as it gets about -7 here at night. Arrived in Puna 5am and decide not to judge it till morninglight and rest. Got straight into bed with all my clothes on and slept for 3 hours. Doenstairs there was an agency adjoining the hotel and decided to take a trip with them to the nearby ruins later in the afternoon. We went and sat in the square in the blazing sun (luckily having covered my already red face with SPF 25) and relaxed a while before having lunch. Picked up at the hotel and driven through amazing countryside (Altiplano) - gentle stretches of yellow wheat before deeply shadowed mountains. Ruins were by a lake (not Titicaca) and the sun shone down on it giving it the appearance of blue crystal. This is Sillustani, where there are Incan and pre-Incan funeral towers of 12metres high. Guide was great and told us all about different tribes, languages and mainly how they built the towers and how they outside represents phalic man and inside is a womb (phalic woman) where the Mumified bodies of the Inca, his wife,a child, close servants and his favourite guinea pig were placed with potttery, jewelry etc. They were mumified in a foetal possision so they could be reborn. The towers had to be finished in 9 months and the small opening faced the east so that the first rays of Father Sun shone in to awake them to their new life. Loads more fascinating stories aswell as the beautiful, peaceful scenery. Didn't see any of the wild guinea pigs, but was a man playing the pan pipes and small guitar and it sounded perfect up there with the hills, lake and 4000metres altitude. On the journey back the Earth looked like it had a rainbow wrapped around it's waist, with bands of colour blending up from the horizon. Wonderful day.

Cuzco, Peru 2nd July

Neither of us slept much last night, but don't feel that bad today because of it. Went and did a little time catching up on these blogs, then had a wander around a museum, sat in the square and ate our sandwiches and bought a load of reminder post cards. Tried several times to phone Simons parents but without any luck. Back to carry on with blogs. Later we're catching the 10pm bus to Puno by Lake Titicaka - oh how am I goung to cope with the altitude? Enjoyed the Cuzco area (shame about Arequipa, we would like to have seen Cola Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world, but the earthquake wouldn't let it be) So, join me soon for the continuing saga of a couple of Gringos in a magical land.

Cuzco, Peru Sunday 1st July

Pinch, punch, 1st of the month! Cocoa tea in the garden, with lovely light and 8.30am sunshine. Down to town and saw a military parade for the 1st of july. A Deaf man came up to us and we started chatting. Then we moved to the middle of the square where there was a whole group of Deaf people. It was like meeting long lost family (such is the friendliness of Deaf). It was great. Haven't signed for so long, but soon got into it. Supprised how well we could communicate bearing in mind they use ASL and I use BSL. Was good excersise for the old grey matter, as when I lipspoke (to accompany the signs) I had to do so in Spanish! Chatted ages about what it's like in their country (lots of campaining for rights like in Britain), about our private lives and what's been happening in Peru. Poor old Simon was waiting for 1.5 hours while I enjoyed my encounter and swopped email addresses. Anyway at last moved on and got tickets to Puno tommorrow and then the bus to Pisac. Lovely drive up with the snow covered mountains playing peek-a-boo. Got straight in a cab to the ruins (legs still extremely sore - didn't fancy 2 hour hard uphill treck) Spent the next 2.5 hour 'walking' around the various ruins that are spread out along the steep winding valley. It used to be used as a communication system; calling to each other by horn and passing messages right the way down the valley. Was a wearing 'walk'. Walked all the way down to the village, which was a great walk actually; climbing down wheat filled terraces and across mud bridges. In the village we found a bakery which had a little guinea pig house ( I goggled: Simon drank Coke). In the main sqaure which was a full on market, I spotted a balcony which we went and sat on to people watch and take unobtrusive photos. Bus back was a squash, but had such an amazing sky - swirls of dark blues on one side, and a shrimp blue colour on the other. I thought to myself "How am I ever going to remember everything I've seen? It's all so great, I don't want to forget a single thing!" Back at the hotel (decided to skip the fiesta that was going on down by the train station) Simon and talked about all the usual things. I'm so very happy in a very deep and real way.

Cuzco, Peru, 30th June

Got plenty of sleep I'm glad to say, but spent the day blasted anyway. Our legs are killing us and trying to walk down the street is like a portfolio for the Ministry of Funny Walks! Spent the day sight seeing the city in a haze. Cathedral; stunning, huge and covered top to bottom in gold and silver robbed from the Incas. Saw Inca museums with pottery, weavings - everything, even spooky 'Scream' Munsch mummies. Horrid. Giant paintings (lots of 'Lord of the Earthquakes' - Jesus on the cross wearing what looks like a net curtain for a skirt. Apparently there was a quake and they paraded Jesus on the cross afterwards, and there wasn't another so it was a miricle!) All interesting but were worn out by 2pm. Had lunch then headed down to the market to stock up on food for the next 2 days. Had a new fruit which was a completely new taste: soft and lychee-like sacks around sour pips. Really nice. Sat in garden of hotel, caught up with diaries and chatted till it was too cold for anything than going to bed. (by the way, bed these days is usually between 7.30 and 8.30pm.... can you believe it!?

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) -part 2- Friday 29th June

We found a rock each and sat and stared till our eyes hurt. My stomache was knotted around my heart and in my mouth for about the first half an hour, but then I adjusted and let the wonders seep into me, and I felt increadably at home and relaxed...my spirit as full and satisfied as it's ever been. We were literally on top of the world! What a feeling that gives you - undescribable and unforgetable. Stayed there 3 or 4 hours? (time, space and dimention up there is not what it seems, or what you know it to be). Thinking off it now stirs something deep inside me - anyone who hasn't experienced it will never comprehend. In trying to describe it more (as I have no way done it justice) I can only say that there are millions of words and orders to arrange those words, but trying to do so I am aware of how corse and unrifined language is - mortal speech being far too rough for the wonders I have seen.At last we reluctantly made our way down; was dreading it as it had been major heebie jeebies on the way up - but was ok - well at least till we visited the house which was a little further down and around to the side and descended it's steps. Ooohhh mama! Steps not big enough to fit a sideways foot on, the steps angles up making it even trickier, so steep and nothing to hold onto or help you. It was practically a sheer drop. I nearly had a little acident in the trouser departement! At one point I could easily have 'lost it' - but there is no way you want to freak or loose your bottle there - so managed to get through it. Stopped and drew a picture, but the scale was up the spout. Once down there was more exploring and finally headed back after being there 7 hours. Decided to take the route down the little takes. Was a nice walk - hard work (and no, we didn't run!) Took us about an hour to get all the way back to town. Sat in the square again with e rewarding bottle of Coke, where we were joined by 3 little girls (4 going on 40) having a right mothers meeting - it was very funny and sweet. At the train station we bumped into Jasper from Latvia (who we'd met up on the plateau this morning) Had a laugh with him as we waited for our delayed train back to Cuzco. The train was freezing cold and we were beyond shattered. It was pitch black with only the stars and moonlight which gave everything a covering like snow. What a time we've had. Crikey!

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) -part 1- Friday 29th June

Up at 5.30 and aahhh what a lovely suprise - a hot shower, yum. Caught 6.30 bus upto the ruins and were there for the glorious early morning light, and the place practically to ourselves. Headed straight for the sharp mountain that you see behind the ruins - 'Huayan Picchu'. (Yesterday we were looking at it through our binoculars and couldn't believe that there were terraces and even a house perched right on the edge at the top..how?... you could bearly see it though. Simon thought that he could see tiny figures on the very top, but I couldn't believe it - seemed impossible, and thought they were trees.Later found out that you could climb it.... so we had to do it.) Well it was one hell of a climb - steep is not the word. Sometimes there were ropes to help you, but attatched to the mountainside, so you always had the drop exposed. It was more than trippy. Quite often you had to just concentrate on the steep tall steps carved from out of the rock - to stop you from acidentally seeing the drop down, or rather out to the side where it goes on forever. Can't describe the effect the mountains have on you here, it's not just the few thousand feet drop, but the whole scale of it. Anyway, after several heart attacks and lung collapses later we reached the top - a small plateau of one of the terraces. Wow! The last 10 mins of climb, 2 dogs accompanied us for moral support, and now at the top they dozed right on the very edge. Took our time to take it in and adjust, thought it was fantastic, and then Simon spotted that you could get even higher. We got right to the very top of the mountain - there were half a dozen large boulders.... and we stood on them; making us gods and giants. Woowww! Blow the top of your head off! 360° view. So so fantastic.

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) Part 2 Thurs 28th June

There it was lying before us, the famous view that we all know and want to see. Actually, none of it seened quite real. It is spectacular, tremendous, stunning, awe inspiring, spiritual, unbelievable, incredulous, breathtaking and a million other words that neither can describe it or do it justice....but all the same, it doesn't quite sink in.The mountains surrounding it are out of this world and make it what it is. The shape and height, colour and intensity - so, so towering and all around you. Makes you feel like you could fall off into the world, and never hit bottom. We climbed up to the Caretakers House (on the near hill where they used to mummify the Incas) and sat and looked, trying to take in the houses, temples, hundreds of terraces carved down the hillside and the domineering mountains. We sat and sat and sat. Eyes adjusting to the distance and depth. We were there hardly talking, just looking and 2 hours had gone by.Passing a few llamas we went down to the ancient city and began to look around; half in a daze... stunned I guess. It was so hot, but the sun made beautiful dark shadows along the walls and in the grooves of the mountains and making the snow-caps shine like silver.Impressive masonary,prison, housing and irrigation systems down to the terraces and waterways running through the streets. 4.30pm we were blasted and decided to go back and try and let it sink in - returning early for a full day tommorrow. The bus back down had a little boy (9-ish) dressed in Inca clothes stood by it and when the bus leaves...so does he, but he runs down the steep hillside to beat the bus at each curve, where he stands and hand signals, calling Inca words. He did this all the way to the bottom, not only doing it, but doing it properly, loud, strong and with much pride.That evening I wasn't hungry; just wanted a beer (Simon's eyes lit up when I told him this). We found a local bar by the train tracks that served only large bottles of beer from the crate, and sat outside and relaxed. A few tourists scurried by looking nervous and out of place. Inside the bar 2 drunk men were being jeered at (or was it flirting?) by 3 half sozzled indian women. Toilet was French-style and the woman threw in a bucket of water when you finished.Si and I had a great night chatting and letting everything slowly sink in. I love our time together (and the things we see together) 24/7 is never enough. Looking forward to tommorrow.

Aguas Calienties (Machu Picchu) Part 1 Thurs 28th June

Caught 7.30 train (old coal). Cringed to be surrounded by a lot of loudmouthed immature Americans, luckily our saving grace were 2 old Peruvians that were sat opposite us. We got chatting - they're going to MP as a treat for the old boy's retirement. Really enjoyed chatting to them and we all had a good laugh. The ride was lovely with beautiful snow-capped mountains, rolling hills of gentle colours and much to feast our eyes on. It took us quite a long time to leave Cusco as the train had to make many switchbacks and zig-zag up the hillside as it is so steep, but it afforded us plenty of time for the great views of the city. At last arrived in Aguas Callienties, the closest town to MP. (the stop before loads of people pilled off the train - there were about 50 people all stood on the side of the tracks ready to do the half Inca treck. Thank goodness we'd decided against it - it would have been a nightmare!) So, Aguas C is a little town with a sweet character; the train tracks running straight through it's centre. Got hotel and had a coke in the square waiting for the next bus up to the ruins. There was an odd iron sculpture; oblong, with a bird escaping from it. An old well used church, a few benches, lots of childern, ice-cream sellers, woman cooking fried chicken with whole potatoes from make-shift stoves on the street, and plenty of dogs hanging around. Bus up to ruins $9 for two, one way! They have whacked the prices up on everything. I'm quite nervous on the way up because I don't want it to be a disapointment - and in the back of my mind I think it will be (too much hype/expectation etc) Winding steep road to ruins took half an hour. Then entrance to sight (suprise suprise!) had gone up too - $20 for one person ( don't know how we managed it, but both of us got 50% discount using our Student Cards ... I know, I know!) Then, at last , the moment we've all been waiting for... We walked into the famous ancient city of the Incas. Machu Picchu.

Cusco, Peru 27th June

Not much sleep last night. Kept thinking there were earth tremours. At last descovered that it wasn't the ground that was shaking, but me (not from the cold, but my heart!... it's hard work this altitude business) I wonder if I go into a kind of hybernation, because whenever I wake up in the morning I'm breathing like I've just run up a flight of stairs - feels like I haven't breathed all night. Anyway, soon
felt better after breakfast of Simon's homemade cheese and advacado sandwiches (advacadoes here are like shot putts) Spent the morning sorting stuff; getting train ticket for Machu Picchu, bus info for Puna and getting a tourist card for the local sights. Shattered.. can't believe we're going higher. At last off to the ruins at Sacsayhuama, just out of town (Inca built to be the head of the Jaguar that the city is in the shape of - with 3 tiered zig-zag walls that are the jaguar's teeth) Great views of Cusco/Cuzco/Qus'qo. Huge stone walls, perfectly fitting together. We relaxed and enjoyed the sights. On the way down a couple of women were heading back with a herd of Llamas, so snapped a couple of shots. Packed for tommorrow, blogger and dinner on the balcony over looking the square. Antisipation of tomorrow.