Buenos Aires, Argentine Sun 16th Sept
Woke still dizzy with Tango tunes and the same excitement of last night. Breakfasted in San Telmo in an old cafe with original B/W tiles & fittings. All breakfasts here are coffee and 3 croisants. Went to the market in Plaza Dorrego. Wow what a great place - great architecture and atmosphere and the whole place lined with antique stalls selling weird and wonderful stuff. There was a buzz; people playing Tangos, dancing, painting, singing. We walked aroung the small square taking in stalls of old telephones & trumpets, jewelry & hats, toys and concealed sword canes. It was a feast for the eyes and the sunshine polished the vibrance of the place & the people. Then I came across a shop that is every girls dream; an Aladin's cave full of the most beautiful antique dresses, hats, gloves, bags, hats etc - all things pretty and gossimer, a big dressing-up chest of fairy clothes! I had half an hour browsing and when I came out with saucer eyes and flushed cheeks, Simon took $100 out of his pocket and said to go in and get something - (it would be an original, always remind me of Buenos Aires, and I deserved it!) What girl would refuse? (even though it took a gentle push - what about the last 6months of budgeting? etc). At last I came out with a 1920's dress (with a bit of hummimng and harring, should I really get it?); but it hit the spot and made me feel lovely; very understated but stylish. We left the market and typically striped suited men behind and sat in the main square '5th May' till the sun went down. Ate fist cooked traditionally (a large open fire with the meat opened out down the centre and stuck over the top of it), then walked around trying to come to terms with leaving South America. I feel so sad about it - don't want to go! - it's all been so fantastic and unbelievable and I've loved all the countries. It will mean no more Spanish (yipee), but also none of that culture / lifestyle, or the work that went into exploring such a strange, diverse and different land. It's the end of our American Adventure!... but I guess there is a whole new one waiting for us on the other side (or underside) of the world!.

Buenos Aires, Argentina 15th Sept

Woke up to the noise of traffic - something that hasn't happened for a while! On the balcony I looked out across San Telmo, with it's rundown charm, large old buildings with iron balconies and a buzz in the air. Think I can say that we got a pretty good idea of BA, seeing as we spent about 7 hours walking around all the areas. Some parts are like London - grand old government buildings - but more is like a (Latin) Paris - (spirit & vibrancy). Large squares with 'toy' soldiers in top hats marching by, old ladies in real fur coats in a last chance bid at glamour, modern highrises spilling with plants, dogs in t-shirts, broadway lined with theatres and neon signs, parks with street artists & stall holders - I love this place.It shouldn't be called Buenos Aires though, but Muchas Aires as it's so windy. Went to the cemetry and saw Evita's grave (very understated at the side of all the others). This place is a mini city within the city - ornate and totally over the top mausoleums like palaces dressed with oversized weeping statues or guarding angels, each one orriginal in design & granduer. I wondered if their lives had been spent trying to outdo everyone else - coz that's certainly what they were trying to do in death. How sad .. look at my grave, see how important I must have been when I was alive! Give me a quiet plot under a tree anytime. Got back to hotel and collapsed with exhaustion. Feel a bit disapointed as I really wanted to find somewhere to see tango - but a tourist trap or cheesey show - I only wanted the real thing. I fell asleep for 20 min and when I awoke Simon had weaved his magic and found a place just around the corner! Went for a drink in a real old bar, where the landlady/lord must have been there since 1940, and nothing had changed. We got a bottle of red wine for $3 ( that's the same as a cup of tea down here), and soaked up the spit and sawdust charm. Now to 'Bar Sur'. Wow.It was perfect. Small place, only about 13 tiny tables and decorated exactly as you'd imagine (like a dim lit Chanson bar), it was stuck in the faded glamour of a fogotten past - moody, intimate. A tiny perfomance space in a clearing infront of us, a piano and the most humble and top notch waiter in DJ discreetly passing amongst the handful of clientel, who all looked like artists. The performers were wonderful characters seeped in nostalgia; Pianist 90 with sleek dyed hair, imaculate DJ, (and was that eyeliner?) looking like the poised Laurence Olivier. Singer 50ish well worn face, dressed in black and fur and jewels like an old movie star, was Argentina's Edith Piaf and sang with the immense aching that only a lifetime of broken hearts and suffering can bring, striving for one last chance that is totally romantic in it's hopelessness. Singer/guitarist with classic Argentinian hat and flower behind his ear and a mournful expression. Double act Sqeezebox and Piano (again both gentlemen of experience & years), moving, emotional and seeping with atmosphere. I was in my element (as you probably can tell). Felt like a private show. Simon ordered Champagne - couldn't have been anything else, not in this setting. Then, on came the dancers. (Wasn't sure if I'd beable to cope as I was already bursting with enjoyment). Did every woman in the audience fall in love (or lust) with the the young boy who must have been all of 18, with dashing good looks and features cut as sharp as his suit? The dancing was unbelievable, they filled the room with sexual danger and menace - the boy's passion almost abusive, but oh so compelling. They were on fire as they danced imtimately. It was like an intricate sword fight (fencing) by two equal partners - who would submit first? - Who would have ultimate power? I was enthralled. I never realised how complexed a dance it was (suppose you only really see corney versions). Being so close you could breathe them in in all their rawness. Wonderful. More acts, each one rotating in a never ending loop, but never repeating. Another bottle of Champagne and on the 2nd Tango set the boy got me up to dance.Was swept across the floor by the brooding smouldering young boy (sorry Simon) and when I told him that I used to be a dancer (but never Tango) it was a green light to him, and he span and whipped me around and plunged me into backbends. Ah! As the night wore on the dance sets got more and more extreme and powerful - impossible intricate footwork and daring lifts and spins which produced a sharp intake of breath from the audience. At last tore ourselves away 1.30ish, more drunk oon the vibrant passion soul of the place than the Champagne ( I'm sure Simon will write otherwise though). This was better than I ever could have imagined, and the best possible way to say goodbye to South America!

Buenos Aires, Argentina Fri 14th Sept

As we came in to the outskirts of Buenos Aires it was exactly like driving into London - and for a moment I thought I'd come full circle. After over 20 hours of travelling I was glad to get on the underground and get to a hotel and shower. Hotel was like in La Paz - very large faded grand building, with tall ceilings, marble staircases, mosaic courtyards and shutters opening out onto ornate balconies - but- rundown and empty now, except for the old bloke at reception night and day. Had a long walk around and got to see quite a bit of the City, which reminded me alot of London in parts (large old government buildings). I prefer the area where we are staying (San Telmo) with it's old crumbly thick buildings with real character, balconies, shutters, faded colours and the charm that decadent decay brings. It has stories behind it - each place has a tale to tell. I faded fast so ate, then sat in the main square eating naughty pastries & taking in the grand buildings and palm trees , toy soldiers in top hats marching by to lower the flag, dogs dressed in doggy tshirts and jumpers and the relaxed people toing and froing. Had a beer in a local bar and retired to our balconie that reminded me of the balconie on our first night in Mexico - gosh, we've com a long long way together...

To Buenos Aires, Argentina 13th Sept

Much colder today with lots of wind (we were lucky it wasn't yesterday!) Had an easy morning: postcards, pick up email and then pizza before getting the station for the 3pm bus (which didn't actually come till 4pm).
[Must take this opportunity to say that on Tues we heard the terrible news of what happened in the United States. At the station we saw footage and it seemed even more unreal - like a film. Can't believe how terrible it all is ( and the disasterous knock on effects it will have) I hope that none of you have lost anyone to what happened, and that the western world will handle this sensibley yet effectively].
Left Puerto Madryn and it's Welsh tea houses behind. The bus journey was the same Patagonian scenery as before, with only a superb burning sunset to lift my heart from the sadness that the trip is nearly over, and, sight of the road (straight, endless, stretching out forever to the horizon) that was giving me a secret message that indeed the road never ends, and that it is you who gets off of it - and - can get back on whenever you want. I have to remember that it is only the end of our American Adventure and that we have a whole new one waiting for us in the South Seas.

Puerto Madryn, Argentina 12th Sept

Ahhh, nice to sleep in a bed! Mini bus picked us up at 8am along with 3 Swiss girls. Our guide looked like a hardline criminal, but was a big softy: nice, helpful and chatty. First stop was a museum, which was v interseting - the best thing being the Whale skeleton (crazy alien shape- especially the head). At Pirimades we had to wait for the next boat (45min) so strolled down the beach (lovely weather again) and was amazed that we could see Whales out in the distance - couldn't wait to get out in the boat now. Small boat with only 8 people in (glad we are out of season and away from the crowds) I stood out on the very bow of the boat and within 5 min we saw our first whale. It was on it's back with it's flippers stuck up in the air sunni

Travelling to Puerto Madryn, Argentina 10th & 11th Sept

Up at 5 to find it had continued snowing all night and settled about half a foot deep. The bus company sent a courtesy cab to pick us up and take us the 3 blocks to the bus- which we were very grateful for as it was slippy and blowing a gale of thick large flakes of snow. Strange thing for a bus company to do, but I suppose it was a good way to get the bus off on time! The bus had a mesh grill on the front which was covered in snow; I've no idea how the driver saw anything, and going over the mountain pass was scarey stuff. It was so deep, you had no visability and could feel the bus skidding. If it was in England they'd have closed it off. The snow scenery continued for 2 hours - now the twisted tortured trees look at home. At last snow gives way to sunshine and endless yellow plains, like someone slipped a coloured filter infront of my eyes. At the ferry crossing at Bahia Azul to get out of Tierra Del Fuego the wind was blowing so hard, we had to wait - and wait - and wait. 4.5 hours later we get the go ahead, but this is worse that the Golfo de Penas and Simon did his best to distract me, but I could see the fear in his eyes. Waves crashed over the side of the ferry, over the top of the cars and broke on the bus window. We were glad to get off in one piece and felt sorry for the 40 or so lorries qued in a long jam waiting to cross. Arrived in Rio Gallegos at 9pm (14.5hours later) and caught the 9.30 bus to Puerto Madryn (around 18 hours). At least it was a luxery bus with reclining seats, and we had a good view from out the upstairs front window of the Patagonian land that stretched on and on forever unchanging. There were no villages - nothing only stunning skies and clouds. At last in Puerto Madryn felt instantly relaxed by this sweet seaside town. Got in at 5pm, got a room and then had a walk on the seafront with all the towns people taking a stroll, jogging, doing Judo on the beach and generally chilling out. Love;ly. Got back, collapsed on the bed and fell asleep.

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 9th Sept

Long and short of running around trying to sort out travel today is that everywhere is closed as it's Sunday, so can't buy a plane ticket (same price as bus but 1 hour not 14! ) so will have to get first bus. Now that that boring stuff is out of the way I can tell you about this most southernly of towns. It really feels like it's at the end of the world - you could get trapped down here - or maybe it's like the Bermuda Triangle and once you cross over that snowy mountain pass, you can never go back. The town is sweet and not unlike others down here, but is cut off by the Beagle Channel at the bottom of it and the mountains at the top of it and all day long it snowed! We won't be having a white Christmas in Oz; so we had it early. Feels like the Antarctic is just over the way, and despite the fast blowing snow - or because of it - I feel exhilerated. Glad we came here even though it's a long way to come for only a day. Gosh, Tierra Del Fuego - land of Fire AND snow!

Ushuaia (town at the end of the world), Tierra Del Fuego, ARGENTINA 8th Sept

Got rid of the rest of the group this morning at 7 as we set off for Ushuaia - the most southerly town in the WORLD! So wanted to go to Tierra Del Fuego - I remember seeing it on a map years ago, and thinking how mad it would be to go there. Never thought I would though! Mind you it was a long journey (14ish hours) from Punta Arenas through Argentinian Patagonia, which is even more barren - though it does have an amazing sky/clouds. (decided I'm using the word 'amazing' far too much - apologies!) French girl on bus (who could talk for France) gave us good info on NZ and Oz, and we gave her info on the rest of South America. Stopped at a couple of places - nothing in the middle of nothing. I'm so excited by it though. Do you think I'm weird? Closer to Ushuaia we have to go over the mountains that are deep in snow; it piled high at the side of the road, which is itself very icey. Can only see a bit of the town in the dark - larger than I expected, but has a strange feel - can't wait till morning!

Puerto Natales - Punta Arenas, Patagonia, Chile 7th Sept

Wonderful and much needed sleep and breakfasted at 9ish. Found out next bus to Punta Arenas isn't till 1pm - day went downhill from there really! Did lots of running around, postcards bought, written and posted, phoned Vernan - happy 80th birthday! Also tried to get info for rest of travel but so much conflicting information it was impossible. Sadly 4 of our boat friends are still travelling in our direction (had enough now - and the Irish don't speak a word of Spanish, which to my shame (or is it) I find embarrassing - plus, they have even less of a clue about arrangements and just making a confusing situation worse). Nice ride south through similar landscape, which I found calming. In Punta Arenas it was the same - stress stress stress. We have so many plans and alternatives plans and not an ounce of solid info - ggrrr. Got some packet food (instant pasta) to take into Argentina as it's so expensive. Simon went off to book - oh, I'm not going into it, too complicated and would take far too long - hey there are better things you could be doing with your time! Went to bed tired and wound up - we've just got to take things by chance.

Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina 6th Sept

Bus picked us up at 7am and another lovely day. (Man at hotel said he couldn't believe our luck - best 2 days weather all year!) Great countryside going up Chile and into Argentina near Torres Del Paine, where it then changed to the bleak ongoing Patagonian land that was unchanged for hours (except the odd group of twisted trees - some of which wore soft beards of light green moss - and the odd wandering herd of sheep). The starkness was lovely though - there is so much space. Saw the first sight of the glacier and got out of the car for a better look. I stood there thinking "I can't imagine it" - then realised that I didn't have to as it was right infront of me - but didn't seem real and just couldn't take it in. Arrived close up at Moreno Glacier at 1.45 and were luck enough to have it practically to ourselves. Si and I ran off (the group is nice nice enough, but talking mindless rubbish to no-clue idiots that just don't 'get it' doesn't appeal to me) and enjoyed over 2 hours wandering around on our own. There are walkways on various levels that take you to either side, down on a level so that you are looking up to it (55metres tall) or higher up so that you can see over the whole thing (14km long). This close it was even more surreal - too much to take in. The sheer scale of it coming down from between the mountains, an endless field of shafts of sharp jagged towers of ice. Amazing. It illuminates blue and the more you look the more details you see, like your brain in letting you take it in slowly, otherwise it would overload. The shapes are beautiful. Saw 2 giant towers fall off with a thunderous crash that echoed forever, and made a huge slow motion wave as they hit the water - but never came back up. Could hear lots of other cracking and calving - but it's too huge to see unless they happen right at the front. Can't believe this has been here since the Ice Age! It captivated and enchanted me. The drive back we were delayed as 3 of group wanted to try and sort out air tickets at an agency in Calafate and were ages! Then immigration decided to play up and keep us a while, which meant that we didn't get in until 10.30pm (wooried we'd miss the Chilean border this side, but still open when we arrived). Felt so sorry for the driver as it was pitch black, and the bumpiest dirt road that threw us all over. Went to bed exhausted by the past 2 days (and the boat trip too) and think about all I have seen and experience. Feel like I've run with the wild and flown with the free. Held the silence of the world in a single breath. I've walked with nature, hand in hand with her cruelty and kindness, and always overshadowed by her magnificence. I have beheld her secret miracles with a soul of wonder. And, I have seen through the eyes of god.

Moreno Glacier, El Calafate, Argentina 6th Sept

Bus picked us up at 7am and another lovely day. (Man at hotel said he couldn't believe our luck - best 2 days weather all year!) Great countryside going up Chile and into Argentina near Torres Del Paine, where it then changed to the bleak ongoing Patagonian land that was unchanged for hours (except the odd group of twisted trees - some of which wore soft beards of light green moss - and the odd wandering herd of sheep). The starkness was lovely though - there is so much space. Saw the first sight of the glacier and got out of the car for a better look. I stood there thinking "I can't imagine it" - then realised that I didn't have to as it was right infront of me - but didn't seem real and just couldn't take it in. Arrived close up at Moreno Glacier at 1.45 and were luck enough to have it practically to ourselves. Si and I ran off (the group is nice nice enough, but talking mindless rubbish to no-clue idiots that just don't 'get it' doesn't appeal to me) and enjoyed over 2 hours wandering around on our own. There are walkways on various levels that take you to either side, down on a level so that you are looking up to it (55metres tall) or higher up so that you can see over the whole thing (14km long). This close it was even more surreal - too much to take in. The sheer scale of it coming down from between the mountains, an endless field of shafts of sharp jagged towers of ice. Amazing. It illuminates blue and the more you look the more details you see, like your brain in letting you take it in slowly, otherwise it would overload. The shapes are beautiful. Saw 2 giant towers fall off with a thunderous crash that echoed forever, and made a huge slow motion wave as they hit the water - but never came back up. Could hear lots of other cracking and calving - but it's too huge to see unless they happen right at the front. Can't believe this has been here since the Ice Age! It captivated and enchanted me. The drive back we were delayed as 3 of group wanted to try and sort out air tickets at an agency in Calafate and were ages! Then immigration decided to play up and keep us a while, which meant that we didn't get in until 10.30pm (wooried we'd miss the Chilean border this side, but still open when we arrived). Felt so sorry for the driver as it was pitch black, and the bumpiest dirt road that threw us all over. Went to bed exhausted by the past 2 days (and the boat trip too) and think about all I have seen and experience. Feel like I've run with the wild and flown with the free. Held the silence of the world in a single breath. I've walked with nature, hand in hand with her cruelty and kindness, and always overshadowed by her magnificence. I have beheld her secret miracles with a soul of wonder. And, I have seen through the eyes of god.

Torres Del Paine, Patagonia, Chile 5th Sept

Off at 7.30 in glorious blue skies and sunshine through Patagonia (which seemed to me like the Altiplano) - endless golden tufted grasses, strange greens and burnt browns & small lakes mirroring mountains. Trees were weird though, like a cartoon evil forest, all twisted and tortured and bare except for the odd 'pompoms' of spikey mustard greeen growth. Beauty in barreness. Saw the famous 'Towers of Pain' and know why they are named so - ouch!. The surrounding mountains and the 'Horns' were all covered in deep snow, but not the bare granite towers. Went to a lake infront of it, bright green with white mineral deposits around the edge. Another river further round was stunning as the bed was made from a slate-like rock that had eroded in steps creating a gentle terraced waterfall, with mangled trees on the near bank and Torres Del Paine on the other. Through the countryside we saw herds of wild Guanacos (llama / Vicuña family) Giant eagles, Ñundu (which are Emu/Ostriches, and look so bizarre down here), bushy foxes after over-wooly sheep and Condors. Condors are magnificent, especially when flying close to you as their sheer size it so impressive ( 10 foot wingspan). Everything you see is a sight to savour. I love the intensity of the colours and the light. Next another waterfall, but steep and fast flowing, where rainbows arched over it picture perfect. Simon and I climbed all around. Upstream through prickly brush we found where the ice melt from the mountain made the rapid river that ran into the waterfall. Everything from the sky to the mountains to the snow and the river shone etheral blue. We tasted the water - pure and fresh. Then on to the Glacier Grey (or as near as we could get without a 2 day hike. Walked through a forest of bare broken trees (not suprised as winds in Summer can reach 150km per hour, to the black sand of the lake bed, and off into the distance framed by an amazing sight! Snow mountains with the glacier inbetween like a wall of water frozen in mid-gush, which then broke up into floating ice bergs of all sizes and the most amazingly creative shapes, and spilled towards us and lake's shore whilst gleaming bright blue. Simon and I had a picnic by the water's edge and were dazzled by the sun on the water shining a widening stream of silver tinsle to us. As we walked around the lake the colours changed; deepening or brightening - and there was calving, and large pieces of ice fell off larger icebergs and crashed in to the lake. We walked up and along the cliff at the side of the lake (which was lush alpine forest) and sat at the end looking down onto it all. It was so peaceful. Spectacular drive back (couple more stops) - was shattered, but the sun warmed the hills, grasses and snow with the Midas Touch before turning the sky pink, and lifted me. Back in Puerto Natales 12 hours later, exhausted but full of life and sights. Never thought it would be so amazing. Really really enjoyed it. I'm blown away. Back at the hotel ate pasta and had a beer, but already feel full on today. Been unbeleiveable really.

Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile, 4th Sept

Anouncement at 6.45am to get up and see the 'Muy Lindo' scenery. I managed to get my drunken head off the pillow, but there was no rousing Simon. Wow ... the best yet. How can I tell you- mountains closer and bigger and the fjiords even narrower (sounds just the same eh?), but, what a sunrise! It was more like sunset, with the whole sky burning intense firey reds and blacks. I didn't care about my hangover, just stood open mouthed. We sailed this way for about an hour with the sky brightening to amber, then gold and being led through the channels by 2 dolphins. I always thought that paradise was hot, and could never imagine the beauty of it down here. Felt close to my hero, Earnest Shackleton (the Antarctic explorer from the early 1900's - an amazing man of courage and leadership) on this boat trip and feel for the first time 'Why'. It's amazing. As we pulled into Puerto Natales 9.30ish (Si finally up - but still drunk I think!) was shocked at how it looked. Deadly mountains enclosing it on 3 sides, the port on the fourth and just infront a piece of barren flat land where the dinky sized toy town sat. It was so isolated - reminded me of Uyuni in Bolivia. 10 of us all went to the same hotel (after price negotiations by yours truely) and started trying to sort out what trips were on offer. To cut a long story short (and a very frustrating one) we went to several places back and forth negotiating prices, and sorting out who wanted to do what, which drove me mad and took up most of the day. Eventually got everything sorted (though I think the man in our hotel who also runs the tour agency now weeps when he sees me coming). So tired, but checked email - lots of lovely birthday greetings - thanks everyone, cooked pasta, went for a walk with Si along the bay to see the pink sunset and then rang mum and dad to say that I was still alive after the boat trip (but forgot it was late, so woke them up -oops sorry). Fell into bed looking forward to enjoying the next 2 days' trips and hopefully all my hard work paying off.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 3 - Mon 3rd Sept

Up early to a kiss, a happy birthday wish and to see sunrise as we came into a bay especially to look at the scenry. It was a good start to a good day. We were surrounded by enormous bleak icy mountains (so much bigger than before and now covered almost entirely in snow). Felt I was in the kingdom of the Snow Queen as first beems of light tried to break through the snow clouds. Was I still asleep and dreaming? No I know I'm awake as it's so cold! I thought the other scenry was amazing, but now it's a hundred times better, and so close. Rugged knarled impenatrable forests, small islands and domeneering black and white mountains. (at lunch Simon had arranged for me to have a special meal of salmon and also had pineapple plonk - but it was a bit rough). We are now passing through narrow fjiords with lanes winding off to both sides and I am on a high. There are dozens of rainbows; some to our left and some to our right, and some we sail through - it's magical. Later there was an even better birthday present - a visit from 3 dolphins! Yipee! Then in the water came small icebergs floating past - hundreds - from 4 foot to about 50, all shining turquoise-white. The amazing 'Oo look, ahh look' sights continued and it's awful as I don't have any better words to describe it! It's quite exhausting taking it all in though and I'm full on it. Weather was lovely and clear and not so cold, so could spend the whole day above deck enjoying it. I was rather a happy bunny (you don't get many birthdays like this).For the evening meal I put on my glitter tiara (from Simon - knows me so well!) and went down to join the other passengers. I was the party queen of the ship as I sipped wine, enjoyed my dinner and opened my present. Everyone was in a good mood and hung around chatting. We were told to clear the table and were moved to near the bar where there was mood lighting (so nieve) where the captain had come to say hello (didn't realise) and the staff and the passengers started to sing 'Happy Birthday', then cake was brought out ( made especially by cook today - what else but an Arctic Roll!!) swiftly followed by 4 bottles of Pisco and we all got very drunk on Pisco Sours. It was a fantastic evening (Simon had pùt so much planning into it - and it certainly paid off) and everyone had a brilliant time. Last night on board and a great end to a truly amazing trip. What a birthday! Yep, I rather like being 31!

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 2 - 2nd Sept

Simon and I got up early to watch the sunrise at 6.30am. It was freezing on deck and blowing a gale, but it was fantastic. Was stunned by the hugeness of the mountains, and they were so close, starting at the waters edge. Rugged and snow capped they were gently amazing when softened by the colours of the morning. Violet, mauve then pink - but oh so subtle. Spent the morning outside watching layers of green craggy mountains in varying degrees of snow cover. Had a game of giant draughs painted out on the floor of top deck against biting winds, saw a couple of curious seals, had lunch and then back outside to make the most of it all. Now going through a narrower passage and heading out to the open sea. All of a sudden I saw movement in the distance and called out to everyone. We all rushed over to Starboard to see the movement coming towards us ... it was a herd of dolphins!! They came right up to the ship and we all hung over as they leaped out of the water in athletic arcs and swam along with us. They were so fast and powerful and graceful. Felt like I could touch them they were so close. It was so exhillerating and heard myself yelping. Then they continued in the direction we'd come from. Seemed they were just as excited by the encounter as we were because when they were further from the bough they were still leaping, and one of them was jumping high in the air straight up and doing a sideways bellyflop crashing back down into the sea (like what whales do). What a supprise, and real rush. (too bad camera inside, aswell as Simon who only saw them in the distance). What a birthday treat! Continued through the beautiful scenery and after lunch we started to sway quite alot ... but this wasn't the Golfo yet! Half of the people were sick by dinner. I'd taken tablets and was handling it well. Only had a couple of bites of food though to be on the safe side. Weather conditions got increasingly worse and concentrated on the video to take my mind off of it. (Speed 2 - the one set on a boat - someone has a pretty nasty sence of humour!) Couldn't look out of the windows (which was a shame as there was a large full moon shinning like a new sovereign lighting up the snow and sky) as you saw only all sea or all sky. Really rolling around and hard to stand, but not the nightmare I'd expected. Captain said we were lucky as it was a very calm crossing and was usually going high the same but crashing down harder, and really threw you in all directions. It was bad enough thank you. (one girl was happy as she'd been sick only once and when her friend did the crossing 2 years ago she was sick 32 times!) In bed was tucked in tight and felt I was on a rollercoaster - should be over by 3am though, and tommorrow is my birthday.

On Ship, Magallenes, Chile - Day 1 - 1st Sept

Herd curnching like the lifting of anchour at about 3am and felt happy to at last be on our way. When we got up Simon went to look outside and returned saying it was lovely. I rushed out all excited, only to find that we were still sat in the harbour in Puerto Montt! Breakfast everyone came down puzzled and just laughed, then shortly after 9am we finally got underway. Phew! On deck we watched P Montt fade away into the distance with almost a sence of achievement - and certainly relief - as we sailed away through a rainbow, which I took to be a good omen at last. Spent most of the day out on deck checking out the view ; quite a wide channel with the rainy island of Chiloe on one side and volcanoes on the other. Returned inside only to warm up or when the rain blew too hard. They put on a video for us ... Titanic! Ha ha very funny - lets hope I still find it amusing going through the Golfo! Watched the long sunset up on deck. It was beautiful. Ice pinks and chilled blues spreading over the whole sky and shining off the mountains - so unusual. Tucked up in our warm cabin we were quietly, content and glad we'd decided on the trip. Wonder what tomorrow will bring?

Puerto Montt, Chile 31st Aug

Exciting day! Got to the dock at 11.30 and looking forward to our 2pm sail, only to be told that the boat had been delayed to 9pm (check in 6pm) What a let down. We had the whole day to kill and the nice blue skies didn't last long. Soon we were drenched as our coats need re-proofing and decided to buy cheapo rain ponchos. Time went too slow ('watched kettle' and all that.) Nice lunch at restuarant overlooking port and seals - be nice to be back to plain (and much less) food. Back at the boat there were only 15 people for the trip! (I had guessed 30, Simon 60). We boarded the huge ship (looked sturdy enough for bad travel) via a cargo lift up past the lorries etc and then walked up to the top deck and lounge. Lovely & warm inside (didn't expect) and we were assisgned cabins. We'd paid to share but got a cabin to ourselves and upgraded to private bathroom - so good start. Explored the ship and were all excited again. It looked so pretty out on deck with the shore lights spilling out into the harbour. Had dinner (3 course and plenty) and got chatting to the other passengers (all different nationalities). We were then told that we wouldn't be leaving until 12 midnight ( bad weather conditions further south - starting to worry). Stayed in the diningroom chatting to an Irish couple and at midnight we still hadn't left. The whole ship seems deserted except for the 4 of us and all I can think of is the Mari Celest! Now told that we'll be leaving at 3am, so said goodbye to the twinkling Puerto Montt and went to bed not knowing what on earth we were doing here - or what would happen to us!